Nice work. I’m good at some stuff, but if I attempted something like that it would be all popsicle sticks and Elmers Glue.

ha it's just nerdy practice. I am printing another one with a spacer to level the trap doors, and replacing the screws with flat top-phillips so that the ball doesn't clang on the button top screws after passing over the trap door. hopefully I can get this tuned enough to require only minor drilling for the screw placements.

I just replaced the Servo in the head (I wired it incorrectly and blew the 5AMP slow blow F5 in the back box, caused the flippers/plunger/up-kick solenoids to not work) everything works now EXCEPT the trap doors, they just stopped all together. I don't know what's going on with them :/

Not sure if this is the right place to ask for technical help?

Everything was working perfectly after I did all the board work, switch solder-join repairs, nvram upgrade...etc... After I replaced the servo in the monsters head (I had a wired incorrectly the first time which I think popped fuse F5 on the PBB) replace the fuse and now the trap doors, flashers, and slingshots don't work.

I tested a bunch of wiring but all of it seems okay and because so many things are not working it has to be something more Central like a fuse or something, all of the fuses look okay but I ordered a fuse kit just to be safe and I will swap them all out when it arrives ? Any ideas out there?

If you have a tester, I think you should check the transistors associated with each of those that are not working. In the manual or, sometimes on a sticker inside the head, will say the transistor to check. Manual is easier. Should test between.4-.6. If one is out, it won’t work. They are cheap and available. Sounds like you are more than capable of the solder work. They blow easy and protect the machine.
The tester should be in the diode setting.

Awesome thank you!

When you are testing them, check the ones nearby, to get an idea on what is right, then, check the one in question. It’s easy. If one is out, it can stop power to others, too.

Fixed it! It was a fuse. I noticed this pic showing that the coils and lamps were together, so I tested all the fuses and replaced these 2 that visually looked good but couldn't get a signal across them:

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Fantastic, good job. Frankenstein is a favorite of mine.

There has been a discussion on this thread about the eyes plastic, hard to find. There is one listed on eBay right now.

Great looking custom mod to make your game stand apart from the rest.

Mod - For Sale

Frankenstein Custom apron artwork - magnetic apron art Archived

Used, good condition - “I sold Frankenstein and still have this really nice custom magnet art that ties into the playfield art. Dresses up the game nice and I've never seen this before. Simply remove the...”

2022-02-16

Harpers Ferry, WV

PoMC

145

Archived after: 3 days

Viewed: 72 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Finally done! What an adventure! So many little headaches but damn it plays nice and I think it looks pretty good too! The glare filter is a must on this game.... Normally I could not see Bobby de Niro at all because of the DMD reflection but now the entire upper playfield is perfectly viewable! Thanks to everyone who chimed in to help along the way. I really love this game!

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think color dmd and plasma bumpers for future updates. the color dmd is easier though

i got one id sell, along with lots of other plastics from this game.

Do you have a list. Of the items

Now that my game plays well I noticed tons of airballs smashing I to the sarcophagus bulb...made another lexan protector, turned out pretty good!

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are you selling that? i wouldn't mind that for mine

Frankenstein All Set Up and Looking Good and Everything Works....Just need to Touch up some of the Black Cabinet

Not bad been Wrapped upped for the Last 2 Years in my Garage Since we Moved

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Hello. I'm from Portugal and I recently bought the sega Frankenstein, but the back box lighting is not on. can you help me with the schematic. Thank you very much

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I don’t have the manual in front of me, but did you check the fuse? You can download the manual from IPDB if you don’t have one.

If the fuse checks out, I would reseat the connector on the board. Check for cold or broken solder joints. From there, you would have to dive in deeper.

Hello from Sweden.
A bit of back story, I bought this game back in 2001 at the age of 17. It played well at that point apart from one small detail (will get back to that). The game was then used until 2011 when I moved across the country for a new job. The first 2 years the game was still mounted and used by my parents a bit. Then from 2013-2021 the game where demounted and stored at their place before I finally had room to get it into my current house last year.

Starting up the game after that have been a bit tricky but if I run it without the Sound board, it actually plays the same as before. And still having the same problem as before: That the ball get stuck in the outer line. Is that a common issue on this game? Couldn´t find anything when reading this thread, but could have missed it.

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I just got this game and my Geneva light keeps getting knocked out of the socket from ball. I turned the fixture a bit to try and make it less direct to the ball hits. Anyone else had this problem? Thanks.

no, just pm me what plastics you need and maybe i have them

That stainless steel guide comes off by 3 screws. I would remove it and bend it at the place where the ball is stuck. Only thing it can be. Easy to do.

I have had mine several years,love it. Never had that problem. Sure sounds like your flippers could be doing it. Look at them close, it is probably lifting the ball.

I adjusted the flipper rubbers slightly by pulling them up just a bit. No significant change. I also have the light in the shooter lane thats colored that I can't get to light to save my life. changed bulbs, checked wires. I've seen it work before I got the game but it sure isn't now.

Best way to check the shooter lane light is with a ball in it. Should be lit then. What I was referring to on the flippers is the bat itself. Sometimes they are not low enough. Should be able to move a card under them, no more. If they are higher, it lifts the ball.

I still can't get the light in the shooter lane to work. Anyone got any advice on how to figure out if its the socket or the connectors on the socket or the wires or...I cant find any broken connections or wires. I tried squeezing the tabs inside the socket together to make the squeeze tighter. Also lightly filed the tabs thinking it might of had some corrosion. No change.

Put a meter on it, see if there is voltage

Would the game need to be on? What would the settings need to be on the DMM?

I got the light working. Reseated everything (again) and tested for continuity and all tested good. Plugged it up and it worked fine. Still can't figure out why my scoops are getting bashed so hard it knocks the lights out and damages plastics. I turned coil strength down to the lowest and checked to make sure the proper coils were installed. No real change

Issues continue. I had a problem where the lower pop bumper (blue for me) would get the ball stuck between the bumper and a rubber and cause machine gunning. Was happening almost every game. I put a larger rubber in (1.5inch) and the problem corrected itself. I still can not get a bulb to stay in the socket on Geneva. The vibrations from both hitting the scoop and just general game play makes the bulb work its way out. I've tried putting some weather stripping foam under it to help with no real success. Not sure what to do. Put a drop of glue on the bulb before putting it in? Change the lamp socket and hope the new one holds the bulb tighter? Any thoughts are appreciated.

I just started having this issue after changing my main flipper coils. Will be posting about it in a separate post.

For those of you with upgraded flipper coils, what if anything are you doing to decrease the power?

A little back story...
Picked up this machine last year. After leveling it and putting it at the recommended 6.5 degree angle, I found that the stock coils just couldn't make it up the ramp. At best I might make the ramp 1 out of 10 times. I lowered the table to ~5.5 degrees and it was manageable from there. I did some research and found many people were putting in the Guns n Roses flipper coils (090-5032-00) to increase the strength.

So I installed these new coils this past week and before even testing it out I went ahead and moved it back to 6.5 degree angle. My god this transformed the game. This game is playing so freaking fast...hitting the ramp is a complete non-issue, but now it's moving so fast that I'm getting many more air balls now. I also keep knocking the lamp out of the socket above the Geneva scoop...happening quite frequently.

So I changed Adjustment 34 "COIL PULSE POWER" from Normal to Soft. This certainly helped the game, as it doesn't play so violently anymore, but it's still a bit TOO fast for my liking...and most others that have played it recently. I might try increasing the angle to 7.5 degrees. But I'm curious if anyone has done anything specific to decrease the power to make it more manageable. Are there any other options? I'm now curious what would have happened if I simply changed this adjustment from Normal to Hard before changing out the coils, but it's too late now...I don't think I have the old coils anymore.

Thoughts?

This is my exact issue too. My Geneva and Sarcophagus lights and plastics get a lot of vibrations. My coil pulse is also turned down to soft to try and compensate. These are also new coils but are the same number as listed in the manual and I believe are standard.

So I fished my old coils out of the garbage and reinstalled them...thankfully they hadn't been put out to the trash can yet. End result was having rebuilt flippers with the original coils. I set the playfield angle at 6.5 degrees and left Adjustment 34 set to soft. It's now playing exactly the way I expect...playing at a good speed, consistently has enough power to hit the ramp, and the bouncing minimized. I may play around with Adjustment 34 and see what happens when I put it back to default (Normal). Regardless, I'm pretty happy with it now. Not sure if this will help anyone else, but just wanted to report my findings.

If you ever find time and wanted to photo those original coils compared to the over powered ones that'd be great. These are what are currently in mine 090-5020-30-00.

My original coils are 090-5030-00, which matches what the manual states.

I was mistaken...mine are the 90-5030-00 as well. The best thing I've done so far is turning down coil strength to soft (this helped with scoops shooting so violently when ejecting), setting the slope more aggressively (around 6.7) and stacking weather stripping foam on top of each other and mashing them all together as small as possible before inserting underneath the socket. It doesn't look beautiful but if it keeps the light in there I'll accept it.

Has anyone here ever confirmed the proper order of the bumper cap colors? The manual has a typo and looking over the pictures of the various posts of this thread there doesn't seem to be any consistency to the order of everyone's machine. This came up as I just replaced all 4 of my bumper assemblies.

Here's the color order on my machine before replacing the bumpers:
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Here's the order after replacement matching what I think was the intention of the manual:
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Here's the manual, which shows 3A, 3B, 3A (?), and 3C on the diagram (3D not shown, so the order is a mystery). I'm not certain if the intention was to be Red (Top), Green (Left), Blue (Right), and Yellow (Bottom)...or Red (Top), Green (Left), Blue (Bottom), and Yellow (Right). Funny thing is...either way you interpret this, Red is always on top, and I'm seeing many pictures with yellow on top including the original flyer.
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mine is

blue
green
yellow
red

That looks great. How did you model it so precisely? Did you scan the other one with some software?

In case this is helpful for you, I recently fixed my Geneva scoop light using the electrical tape trick. I got annoyed with that light popping out seemingly every other game and finally spent some time doing some research, found this trick in another thread on Pinside.

Pull the bulb out of the socket, bend back the wire on both sides of the bulb, wrap the exposed base with 1 layer of electrical tape, bend the wires back over the tape and into position, and re-insert. It will take a bit of force to insert it back into the socket. Hasn't popped out once since.

This is the order

Thanks for the idea! I actually ended up putting a bit of foam underneath the light bulb for supports and used just a bit of super glue on the bulb before inserting it. It's been fine ever since! This is a common problem for this game apparently as I see so many Frankensteins with foam underneath the Geneva scoop.

Hey fellow Frankenstein owners. Picked up a Frank a few months ago and it's got a few issues but I'll ask about them one at a time. The main issue is that the Frankenstein mechs right hand sits lower than it should and the ball quite often falls off the hand instead of being caught due to the ball having to drop down further than it should. Has anyone had this issue with theirs and know how to fix it please? It also doesn't throw the ball as hard as it should even with the throw setting on hard. I figure the coil that powers the throw needs replacing. Is it difficult to pull the Frankenstein mech apart and put it back together? I'm a first time pin owner and a novice at these things and a little worried I might not be able to get it back together right if I pull it apart.

It's been a while since I've taken mine apart but it doesn't seem like there was much to it. Just take lots of pictures as you go.

As far as the hand being lower it could be an adjustment.

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Coils themselves rarely go bad in my experience(unless they get stuck on and burn) try just changing the sleeve inside of it first, that usually causes weak coil.

The coils for the monster are easy to get to, try the sleeves. On the ball too high for the hands, there is no adjustment for the arms. Most of these games have broken upper ramps. Someone has most likely supported the ramp to compensate. The upper ramp needs to be lowered. Look to see how it is supported. Rampomatic is going to make these soon. MSF is an old favorite of mine.

Maybe also check part 17 in the diagram and make sure it hasn't come loose, allowing the arm to sag. Just a thought.

Thanks for the prompt replies guys. Much appreciated. And yeah, from the main plate assembly diagram and photos I've seen of it there doesn't seem to be a hell of a lot to it. It wasn't until I found a vid (link below) about the head movement (my Franks head doesn't move is another of the issues) and the head motion board dying and the guy who designed a new motion board for it saying it's a pain in the arse to get to the head servo that I got a bit worried about pulling it apart. It looks like the arm has a square hole in it so I might just be able to adjust it's position on the square shaft or possibly the square stop nut without pulling the whole thing apart. And it seems more likely that the monster motion board for the head movement has died rather than the the servo. I think I've found some in stock down here in Aus so I might try replacing that first before pulling the whole thing apart to get to the servo. And yeah, bbaker2824 I did wonder if maybe the stop bracket (part 17) might be loose but it's on the opposite hand to the low one and there only seems to be one and I'm not sure why there isn't one for each side as the hands work independently from each other. I was thinking I might be able to buy/make one for the low hand as well to stop it being low but I'll have a fiddle and try and adjust the position before I resort to that. And ok, so the plunger that powers the throw has a sleeve like the flippers do has it Jtm3? There seems to be only one plunger/coil pictured but the hands work separately of each other so I'm not sure how that works if there's only one? Thanks again for the replies guys (link to head movement/monster motion board vid)

Coil sleeve (like flipper coils and others). Should solve the weak throwing issue, See 7B for part number, or get a full game kit from Marco or PinballLife and change as needed. Regarding the servo and servo driver board, if I remember correctly, both were bad on mine. I think the board has a led on it that would indicate if it was good. The servo itself is a little tricky since the wiring order is different on some replacement servos. I think I made a post earlier in this thread addressing this issue.

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