(Topic ID: 97334)

Mary Shelley's Frankenstein Owner's Club- ideas & info

By blondetall

7 years ago


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  • 840 posts
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  • Latest reply 27 days ago by upsfeedr
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There are 840 posts in this topic. You are on page 17 of 17.
#801 5 months ago
Quoted from mekishiko916:

zahner thanks! Yeah it turned out pretty decent, at least I can play until the reproductions are available. It works almost perfectly, however the only issue is because the bottom of my ramp is flat, there is a slight incline for each diverter....which works fine unless you hit the up-kicker about 5 times...it warms up and gets slightly weaker so the ball can't overcome the first incline. mostly perfect though! I might stack some washers to lower the hinges which should fix it.
Here's the video of it in action:

Nice work. I’m good at some stuff, but if I attempted something like that it would be all popsicle sticks and Elmers Glue.

#802 5 months ago
Quoted from zahner:

Nice work. I’m good at some stuff, but if I attempted something like that it would be all popsicle sticks and Elmers Glue.

ha it's just nerdy practice. I am printing another one with a spacer to level the trap doors, and replacing the screws with flat top-phillips so that the ball doesn't clang on the button top screws after passing over the trap door. hopefully I can get this tuned enough to require only minor drilling for the screw placements.

I just replaced the Servo in the head (I wired it incorrectly and blew the 5AMP slow blow F5 in the back box, caused the flippers/plunger/up-kick solenoids to not work) everything works now EXCEPT the trap doors, they just stopped all together. I don't know what's going on with them :/

#803 5 months ago

Not sure if this is the right place to ask for technical help?

Everything was working perfectly after I did all the board work, switch solder-join repairs, nvram upgrade...etc... After I replaced the servo in the monsters head (I had a wired incorrectly the first time which I think popped fuse F5 on the PBB) replace the fuse and now the trap doors, flashers, and slingshots don't work.

I tested a bunch of wiring but all of it seems okay and because so many things are not working it has to be something more Central like a fuse or something, all of the fuses look okay but I ordered a fuse kit just to be safe and I will swap them all out when it arrives ? Any ideas out there?

#804 5 months ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

Looking to join the club. Anyone near MN/

Not sure if this is the right place to ask for technical help?
Everything was working perfectly after I did all the board work, switch solder-join repairs, nvram upgrade...etc... After I replaced the servo in the monsters head (I had a wired incorrectly the first time which I think popped fuse F5 on the PBB) replace the fuse and now the trap doors, flashers, and slingshots don't work.
I tested a bunch of wiring but all of it seems okay and because so many things are not working it has to be something more Central like a fuse or something, all of the fuses look okay but I ordered a fuse kit just to be safe and I will swap them all out when it arrives ? Any ideas out there?

If you have a tester, I think you should check the transistors associated with each of those that are not working. In the manual or, sometimes on a sticker inside the head, will say the transistor to check. Manual is easier. Should test between.4-.6. If one is out, it won’t work. They are cheap and available. Sounds like you are more than capable of the solder work. They blow easy and protect the machine.
The tester should be in the diode setting.

#805 5 months ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

If you have a tester, I think you should check the transistors associated with each of those that are not working. In the manual or, sometimes on a sticker inside the head, will say the transistor to check. Manual is easier. Should test between.4-.6. If one is out, it won’t work. They are cheap and available. Sounds like you are more than capable of the solder work. They blow easy and protect the machine.
The tester should be in the diode setting.

Awesome thank you!

#806 5 months ago
Quoted from mekishiko916:

Awesome thank you!

When you are testing them, check the ones nearby, to get an idea on what is right, then, check the one in question. It’s easy. If one is out, it can stop power to others, too.

#807 5 months ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

When you are testing them, check the ones nearby, to get an idea on what is right, then, check the one in question. It’s easy. If one is out, it can stop power to others, too.

Fixed it! It was a fuse. I noticed this pic showing that the coils and lamps were together, so I tested all the fuses and replaced these 2 that visually looked good but couldn't get a signal across them:

IMG_20220205_204024__01 (resized).jpgIMG_20220205_211414__01 (resized).jpgIMG_20220205_211421__01 (resized).jpg
#808 5 months ago
Quoted from mekishiko916:

Fixed it! It was a fuse. I noticed this pic showing that the coils and lamps were together, so I tested all the fuses and replaced these 2 that visually looked good but couldn't get a signal across them:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Fantastic, good job. Frankenstein is a favorite of mine.

1 week later
#809 4 months ago

There has been a discussion on this thread about the eyes plastic, hard to find. There is one listed on eBay right now.

#810 4 months ago

Great looking custom mod to make your game stand apart from the rest.

Mod - For Sale
Used, good condition “I sold Frankenstein and still have this really nice custom magnet art that ties into the playfield art. Dresses up the game nice and I've never seen this before. Simply remove the...”
2022-02-16
Harpers Ferry, WV
145
Archived after: 3 days
Viewed: 72 times
Status: Sold (amount private)

3 weeks later
#811 3 months ago

Finally done! What an adventure! So many little headaches but damn it plays nice and I think it looks pretty good too! The glare filter is a must on this game.... Normally I could not see Bobby de Niro at all because of the DMD reflection but now the entire upper playfield is perfectly viewable! Thanks to everyone who chimed in to help along the way. I really love this game!

IMG_20220311_210232 (resized).jpgIMG_20220311_210239 (resized).jpgIMG_20220311_210246 (resized).jpg
#812 3 months ago

think color dmd and plasma bumpers for future updates. the color dmd is easier though

#813 3 months ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

There has been a discussion on this thread about the eyes plastic, hard to find. There is one listed on eBay right now.

i got one id sell, along with lots of other plastics from this game.

#814 3 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

i got one id sell, along with lots of other plastics from this game.

Do you have a list. Of the items

#815 3 months ago

Now that my game plays well I noticed tons of airballs smashing I to the sarcophagus bulb...made another lexan protector, turned out pretty good!

IMG_20220313_152736 (resized).jpgIMG_20220313_153655 (resized).jpg
#816 3 months ago
Quoted from mekishiko916:

Now that my game plays well I noticed tons of airballs smashing I to the sarcophagus bulb...made another lexan protector, turned out pretty good![quoted image][quoted image]

are you selling that? i wouldn't mind that for mine

#817 3 months ago

Frankenstein All Set Up and Looking Good and Everything Works....Just need to Touch up some of the Black Cabinet

Not bad been Wrapped upped for the Last 2 Years in my Garage Since we Moved

imagezsdsd1 (resized).jpegimagesth0 (resized).jpeg
3 weeks later
#818 3 months ago

Hello. I'm from Portugal and I recently bought the sega Frankenstein, but the back box lighting is not on. can you help me with the schematic. Thank you very much

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#819 89 days ago
Quoted from Jose_R4f4el:

Hello. I'm from Portugal and I recently bought the sega Frankenstein, but the back box lighting is not on. can you help me with the schematic. Thank you very much

I don’t have the manual in front of me, but did you check the fuse? You can download the manual from IPDB if you don’t have one.

If the fuse checks out, I would reseat the connector on the board. Check for cold or broken solder joints. From there, you would have to dive in deeper.

3 weeks later
#820 63 days ago

Hello from Sweden.
A bit of back story, I bought this game back in 2001 at the age of 17. It played well at that point apart from one small detail (will get back to that). The game was then used until 2011 when I moved across the country for a new job. The first 2 years the game was still mounted and used by my parents a bit. Then from 2013-2021 the game where demounted and stored at their place before I finally had room to get it into my current house last year.

Starting up the game after that have been a bit tricky but if I run it without the Sound board, it actually plays the same as before. And still having the same problem as before: That the ball get stuck in the outer line. Is that a common issue on this game? Couldn´t find anything when reading this thread, but could have missed it.

MSF_BallStuck (resized).JPG
#821 63 days ago

I just got this game and my Geneva light keeps getting knocked out of the socket from ball. I turned the fixture a bit to try and make it less direct to the ball hits. Anyone else had this problem? Thanks.

#822 63 days ago
Quoted from upsfeedr:

Do you have a list. Of the items

no, just pm me what plastics you need and maybe i have them

#823 63 days ago
Quoted from Icestoffe:

Hello from Sweden.
A bit of back story, I bought this game back in 2001 at the age of 17. It played well at that point apart from one small detail (will get back to that). The game was then used until 2011 when I moved across the country for a new job. The first 2 years the game was still mounted and used by my parents a bit. Then from 2013-2021 the game where demounted and stored at their place before I finally had room to get it into my current house last year.
Starting up the game after that have been a bit tricky but if I run it without the Sound board, it actually plays the same as before. And still having the same problem as before: That the ball get stuck in the outer line. Is that a common issue on this game? Couldn´t find anything when reading this thread, but could have missed it.[quoted image]

That stainless steel guide comes off by 3 screws. I would remove it and bend it at the place where the ball is stuck. Only thing it can be. Easy to do.

#824 63 days ago
Quoted from carvindc200:

I just got this game and my Geneva light keeps getting knocked out of the socket from ball. I turned the fixture a bit to try and make it less direct to the ball hits. Anyone else had this problem? Thanks.

I have had mine several years,love it. Never had that problem. Sure sounds like your flippers could be doing it. Look at them close, it is probably lifting the ball.

#825 62 days ago

I adjusted the flipper rubbers slightly by pulling them up just a bit. No significant change. I also have the light in the shooter lane thats colored that I can't get to light to save my life. changed bulbs, checked wires. I've seen it work before I got the game but it sure isn't now.

#826 62 days ago
Quoted from carvindc200:

I adjusted the flipper rubbers slightly by pulling them up just a bit. No significant change. I also have the light in the shooter lane thats colored that I can't get to light to save my life. changed bulbs, checked wires. I've seen it work before I got the game but it sure isn't now.

Best way to check the shooter lane light is with a ball in it. Should be lit then. What I was referring to on the flippers is the bat itself. Sometimes they are not low enough. Should be able to move a card under them, no more. If they are higher, it lifts the ball.

#827 59 days ago

I still can't get the light in the shooter lane to work. Anyone got any advice on how to figure out if its the socket or the connectors on the socket or the wires or...I cant find any broken connections or wires. I tried squeezing the tabs inside the socket together to make the squeeze tighter. Also lightly filed the tabs thinking it might of had some corrosion. No change.

#828 59 days ago
Quoted from carvindc200:

I still can't get the light in the shooter lane to work. Anyone got any advice on how to figure out if its the socket or the connectors on the socket or the wires or...I cant find any broken connections or wires. I tried squeezing the tabs inside the socket together to make the squeeze tighter. Also lightly filed the tabs thinking it might of had some corrosion. No change.

Put a meter on it, see if there is voltage

#829 59 days ago
Quoted from Irishbastard:

Put a meter on it, see if there is voltage

Would the game need to be on? What would the settings need to be on the DMM?

#830 56 days ago

I got the light working. Reseated everything (again) and tested for continuity and all tested good. Plugged it up and it worked fine. Still can't figure out why my scoops are getting bashed so hard it knocks the lights out and damages plastics. I turned coil strength down to the lowest and checked to make sure the proper coils were installed. No real change

2 weeks later
#831 41 days ago

Issues continue. I had a problem where the lower pop bumper (blue for me) would get the ball stuck between the bumper and a rubber and cause machine gunning. Was happening almost every game. I put a larger rubber in (1.5inch) and the problem corrected itself. I still can not get a bulb to stay in the socket on Geneva. The vibrations from both hitting the scoop and just general game play makes the bulb work its way out. I've tried putting some weather stripping foam under it to help with no real success. Not sure what to do. Put a drop of glue on the bulb before putting it in? Change the lamp socket and hope the new one holds the bulb tighter? Any thoughts are appreciated.

#832 39 days ago
Quoted from carvindc200:

I just got this game and my Geneva light keeps getting knocked out of the socket from ball. I turned the fixture a bit to try and make it less direct to the ball hits. Anyone else had this problem? Thanks.

I just started having this issue after changing my main flipper coils. Will be posting about it in a separate post.

#833 39 days ago

For those of you with upgraded flipper coils, what if anything are you doing to decrease the power?

A little back story...
Picked up this machine last year. After leveling it and putting it at the recommended 6.5 degree angle, I found that the stock coils just couldn't make it up the ramp. At best I might make the ramp 1 out of 10 times. I lowered the table to ~5.5 degrees and it was manageable from there. I did some research and found many people were putting in the Guns n Roses flipper coils (090-5032-00) to increase the strength.

So I installed these new coils this past week and before even testing it out I went ahead and moved it back to 6.5 degree angle. My god this transformed the game. This game is playing so freaking fast...hitting the ramp is a complete non-issue, but now it's moving so fast that I'm getting many more air balls now. I also keep knocking the lamp out of the socket above the Geneva scoop...happening quite frequently.

So I changed Adjustment 34 "COIL PULSE POWER" from Normal to Soft. This certainly helped the game, as it doesn't play so violently anymore, but it's still a bit TOO fast for my liking...and most others that have played it recently. I might try increasing the angle to 7.5 degrees. But I'm curious if anyone has done anything specific to decrease the power to make it more manageable. Are there any other options? I'm now curious what would have happened if I simply changed this adjustment from Normal to Hard before changing out the coils, but it's too late now...I don't think I have the old coils anymore.

Thoughts?

#834 39 days ago
Quoted from slizzap:

For those of you with upgraded flipper coils, what if anything are you doing to decrease the power?
A little back story...
Picked up this machine last year. After leveling it and putting it at the recommended 6.5 degree angle, I found that the stock coils just couldn't make it up the ramp. At best I might make the ramp 1 out of 10 times. I lowered the table to ~5.5 degrees and it was manageable from there. I did some research and found many people were putting in the Guns n Roses flipper coils (090-5032-00) to increase the strength.
So I installed these new coils this past week and before even testing it out I went ahead and moved it back to 6.5 degree angle. My god this transformed the game. This game is playing so freaking fast...hitting the ramp is a complete non-issue, but now it's moving so fast that I'm getting many more air balls now. I also keep knocking the lamp out of the socket above the Geneva scoop...happening quite frequently.
So I changed Adjustment 34 "COIL PULSE POWER" from Normal to Soft. This certainly helped the game, as it doesn't play so violently anymore, but it's still a bit TOO fast for my liking...and most others that have played it recently. I might try increasing the angle to 7.5 degrees. But I'm curious if anyone has done anything specific to decrease the power to make it more manageable. Are there any other options? I'm now curious what would have happened if I simply changed this adjustment from Normal to Hard before changing out the coils, but it's too late now...I don't think I have the old coils anymore.
Thoughts?

This is my exact issue too. My Geneva and Sarcophagus lights and plastics get a lot of vibrations. My coil pulse is also turned down to soft to try and compensate. These are also new coils but are the same number as listed in the manual and I believe are standard.

#835 33 days ago

So I fished my old coils out of the garbage and reinstalled them...thankfully they hadn't been put out to the trash can yet. End result was having rebuilt flippers with the original coils. I set the playfield angle at 6.5 degrees and left Adjustment 34 set to soft. It's now playing exactly the way I expect...playing at a good speed, consistently has enough power to hit the ramp, and the bouncing minimized. I may play around with Adjustment 34 and see what happens when I put it back to default (Normal). Regardless, I'm pretty happy with it now. Not sure if this will help anyone else, but just wanted to report my findings.

#836 33 days ago
Quoted from slizzap:

So I fished my old coils out of the garbage and reinstalled them...thankfully they hadn't been put out to the trash can yet. End result was having rebuilt flippers with the original coils. I set the playfield angle at 6.5 degrees and left Adjustment 34 set to soft. It's now playing exactly the way I expect...playing at a good speed, consistently has enough power to hit the ramp, and the bouncing minimized. I may play around with Adjustment 34 and see what happens when I put it back to default (Normal). Regardless, I'm pretty happy with it now. Not sure if this will help anyone else, but just wanted to report my findings.

If you ever find time and wanted to photo those original coils compared to the over powered ones that'd be great. These are what are currently in mine 090-5020-30-00.

#837 30 days ago
Quoted from carvindc200:

If you ever find time and wanted to photo those original coils compared to the over powered ones that'd be great. These are what are currently in mine 090-5020-30-00.

My original coils are 090-5030-00, which matches what the manual states.

#838 30 days ago
Quoted from slizzap:

My original coils are 090-5030-00, which matches what the manual states.

I was mistaken...mine are the 90-5030-00 as well. The best thing I've done so far is turning down coil strength to soft (this helped with scoops shooting so violently when ejecting), setting the slope more aggressively (around 6.7) and stacking weather stripping foam on top of each other and mashing them all together as small as possible before inserting underneath the socket. It doesn't look beautiful but if it keeps the light in there I'll accept it.

#839 29 days ago

Has anyone here ever confirmed the proper order of the bumper cap colors? The manual has a typo and looking over the pictures of the various posts of this thread there doesn't seem to be any consistency to the order of everyone's machine. This came up as I just replaced all 4 of my bumper assemblies.

Here's the color order on my machine before replacing the bumpers:
Before (resized).jpg

Here's the order after replacement matching what I think was the intention of the manual:
After (resized).jpg

Here's the manual, which shows 3A, 3B, 3A (?), and 3C on the diagram (3D not shown, so the order is a mystery). I'm not certain if the intention was to be Red (Top), Green (Left), Blue (Right), and Yellow (Bottom)...or Red (Top), Green (Left), Blue (Bottom), and Yellow (Right). Funny thing is...either way you interpret this, Red is always on top, and I'm seeing many pictures with yellow on top including the original flyer.
Manual (resized).jpg

#840 27 days ago

mine is

blue
green
yellow
red

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