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(Topic ID: 97334)

Mary Shelley's Frankenstein Owner's Club- ideas & info


By blondetall

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 698 posts
  • 114 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Guido13
  • Topic is favorited by 48 Pinsiders

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There are 698 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 14.
#651 35 days ago

Question... is Frank's head supposed to move? When I manually move mine from side to side I can feel & hear gears & a motor that is likely supposed to move the head BUT I have never seen the head move during gameplay.

I've done the "cycling coils" test and didn't see it move either. His arms move though.

Is there a specific test to see if my frank head is doing what it's supposed to? What is the likely cause of a head not moving.

Thanks

#652 34 days ago
Quoted from d0n:

Question... is Frank's head supposed to move? When I manually move mine from side to side I can feel & hear gears & a motor that is likely supposed to move the head BUT I have never seen the head move during gameplay.
I've done the "cycling coils" test and didn't see it move either. His arms move though.
Is there a specific test to see if my frank head is doing what it's supposed to? What is the likely cause of a head not moving.
Thanks

It should move, mine does not either.
Servo test in the test menu is the one you need.

#653 34 days ago
Quoted from JodyG:

If anyone would like to be put on the initial interest list for November-December projects, please PM me your email address and what you are interested in. I do not have pricing on these yet.

#654 34 days ago

I completely forgot to write JodyG a message
Just did!

#655 34 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

It should move, mine does not either.
Servo test in the test menu is the one you need.

Mine had a new motor/servo installed but the head just did a few tiny jerking motions. I decided to remove the body. I removed both 1/4 hex head bolts holding the front of frank's body down and the head starting moving 100% freely from side to side! I put the bolts back in and the head stopped moving correctly. Evidently, the head and body can rub when the body is tightened completely? It still has the 2 rear bolts in & tight so the body is held very well even with both front bolts missing.

So, if you can hear your servo motor working and the head isn't moving or it's erratic, try this "fix".

#656 34 days ago
Quoted from d0n:

Mine had a new motor/servo installed but the head just did a few tiny jerking motions. I decided to remove the body. I removed both 1/4 hex head bolts hold the front of frank's body down and the head starting moving 100% freely from side to side. I put the bolts back in and the head stopped moving correctly. Evidently, the head and body can rub when the body is tightened? It still has the 2 rear bolts in & tight so the body is held very well even with both front bolts missing.
So, if you can hear your servo motor working and the head isn't moving or it's erratic, try this "fix".

Thanks for the advice!
Unfortunately my issue is on the cpu board haha.
Thinking about shotgunning and replacing a few components

#657 34 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Thanks for the advice!
Unfortunately my issue is on the cpu board haha.
Thinking about shotgunning and replacing a few components

Mine had that small computer driver board replaced at the same time as the servo motor. Evidently, it's an issue on this game. Pinball life probably has the board for not a lot of money.

Found the board and the servo but it's not exactly cheap. https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/segas-frankenstein-head-motor-control-board/

#658 34 days ago
Quoted from d0n:

Mine had that small computer driver board replaced at the same time as the servo motor. Evidently, it's an issue on this game. Pinball life probably has the board for not a lot of money.
Found the board and the servo but it's not exactly cheap. https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/segas-frankenstein-head-motor-control-board/

I know they are often broken, but in my game this board does not even get the right signals from the cpu (clock, enable, data) I think.
Do you have a multimeter?
I really could use the voltages on connector cn3 on the cpu

#659 33 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

I know they are often broken, but in my game this board does not even get the right signals from the cpu (clock, enable, data) I think.
Do you have a multimeter?
I really could use the voltages on connector cn3 on the cpu

Yes but I only use it to check fuses.

#660 32 days ago
Quoted from steve45:

I finally took the time this evening and put one of my spare TILT!Audio boards into my msf game. Took only a few minutes to replace and it plays very nice.

You may notice that there are a few more mods like extra leds in backbox speakers, big color pin2dmd and also the whole gi is rgb. But to be honest the biggest thrill is always the new sound. Of course I replaced the speakers as well to get more volume and clearer sound.
Br Steve

I noticed your pin2dmd does the same thing as mine. At 1:34 your DMD resets and shows the title screen with the display version.

#661 31 days ago

a cheap mod for frank would be to install a color changing led in the spotlight on the fiend. when you go crazy plasma bumpers or great to replace the regular bumpers and a color display looks great with it

#662 31 days ago
Quoted from wugly:

a cheap mod for frank would be to install a color changing led in the spotlight on the fiend. when you go crazy plasma bumpers or great to replace the regular bumpers and a color display looks great with it

All the color changing bulbs I have used have always been dim. I've never seen one bright enough to use in a spotlight. Are there some that I haven't found?

#663 30 days ago

waiting for a few to show up I will let you know if they work out

#664 30 days ago

Just bought this to fix the cracks in the ramp.
Hopefully its the right stuff

Still waiting on my leds to arrive so the playfield is still empty..
Can't wait to play it again!

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#665 29 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Just bought this to fix the cracks in the ramp.
Hopefully its the right stuff
Still waiting on my leds to arrive so the playfield is still empty..
Can't wait to play it again![quoted image]

That looks like some really good stuff. We all need that on our ramps. My upper left is in pitiful shape, lots of glue. You would think if so many people need them, they would make them.
I put a Pinsound on mine, the guy that did the program is from Sweden, named Hazzard. Check out YouTube, if you haven’t heard it. It made it definitely a keeper.

#666 28 days ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

That looks like some really good stuff. We all need that on our ramps. My upper left is in pitiful shape, lots of glue. You would think if so many people need them, they would make them.
I put a Pinsound on mine, the guy that did the program is from Sweden, named Hazzard. Check out YouTube, if you haven’t heard it. It made it definitely a keeper.

Norway that is, but thanks!

#667 28 days ago

I just listened to the Hazzard pinsound remix. It sounds really good. I hope he kept the "super Super SUPER JACKPOT!!". It is the most dramatic super jackpot callout I know of - in part because all other music and sound goes silent for the callout. It is so satisfying too, because it takes sooo many shots to get there: 2 jackpots plus 12 targets, creature ramp jackpot, sarcophagus jackpot, then the roaming super super super jackpot.

If there is audio of the remix of this online somewhere, please let me know.

#668 27 days ago
Quoted from Hazzard:

Norway that is, but thanks!

I still really enjoy it. The heartbeat at multi ball & Helena’ s screams, especially.

#669 24 days ago

The target decals I ordered look great!
Some of the targets were a bit scratched up so this looks way better

Still waiting on my LEDs, hopefully they'll arrive soon so I can start building again!

Also: Saw the Frankenstein movie the other night and I liked it. Story and acting were a bit weird at times but I'm glad I watched it! The burning of Elizabeth and the ending of the movie sure left a mark. 7/10
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#670 22 days ago
Quoted from d0n:

All the color changing bulbs I have used have always been dim. I've never seen one bright enough to use in a spotlight. Are there some that I haven't found?

it was a good idea but you were right that the they were too dim to really light him up

#671 21 days ago

Would anybody be willing to share a picture of inside Frankenstein? I picked up this machine from Italy and there isn’t a motor to move frankensteins head. They made a bunch of modifications. I need to figure out how to convert it back. Also, I need to find this plastic piece for frankensteins head. Any help would be appreciated.

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#672 21 days ago

You have to remove the riveted metal piece and reinstall the servo motor.
I posted a suitable type of servo in that thread somewhere...just search for it
Don´t have a pic for the underside of franky´s head, but it seems the counterpart for the servo is attached there.
IIRC they came together with the new servo and looks like that: https://www.conrad.at/de/p/reely-alu-servohebel-55-mm-passend-fuer-jr-servohebelkranz-anzahl-bohrungen-6-1530670.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpa2a8Yn17AIVR9iyCh2ZlgfvEAQYByABEgLaw_D_BwE&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIpa2a8Yn17AIVR9iyCh2ZlgfvEAQYByABEgLaw_D_BwE:G:s

Should also check if the servo control board on the PF underside is present...was hard to find a spare but there might be some alternatives available

good luck!

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#673 20 days ago

Awesome. Thanks for the pic! I ordered a servo motor. I think I can make it work without the plastic piece on the head. The control board is present.

A pic is worth a thousand words!!!!!

#674 20 days ago

The creator head problems continue. I installed the servo motor with the yellow wire on the left (see pic). Turned on the machine (no sound, no DMD, only the GI lights worked). Then the kicker in the left lane started smoking and I blew three fuses.

Unplugged the servo motor and disconnected the kicker. Replaced the fuses and everything started working.

Plugged in the servo motor and had the Same problem. Shut it off quickly and reversed the wires....yellow on the right (see pic). Turned on the machine and everything worked as usual. Reconnected the kicker and it worked!

The only problem now is that the head isn’t moving.....I tried to follow a few posts related to rewiring the servo but none of them matched this wire color scheme. I purchased it from Marcos.

Thoughts?

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#675 20 days ago

I know that Airtronics changed their wiring at some point. I had a similar issue in the past. See if this helps:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?392644-Servo-connector-compatibility

#676 16 days ago

Little known fact - although Frankenstein doesn't support mode stacking, there is a corner case that lets you do it (kind of). If you are one shot away from starting Geneva multiball, and the shot is lit, and you start a mode then immediately hit the Geneva shot, you can play the mode in 3 ball multiball. The best way to achieve this is by leaving the R as the last target. Then you can deflect off the R into the Geneva scoop. It has to be VERY QUICKLY after the mode start - there is not time to take a shot, it almost certainly must be a bounce into the scoop.

I just did Graveyard mode while in Geneva multiball. It gives a jackpot and awards mode shot for each shot hit. HOWEVER, I don't believe it awarded me the head when I shot the ice cave, but it did award a jackpot. So I don't know if you want to do the stack intentionally.

#677 15 days ago
Quoted from Crash:

Possibly. Jody with Ramp-O-Matic is making a ton of new ramps this year. One person asked about Frankenstein, but didn't get a response. The legalities involved with Stern may get in the way. He hasn't mentioned anything about DE/Sega/Stern games, with all assets owned by Stern. Technically he can probably get away with clean room re-engineering ramps for this era as long as he uses his own molds and does not include copyrighted decals.
I'd definitely ask about it, may get his attention!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ramp-o-matic-ramp-thread

I have a ramp that I picked up from John Borg 10+ years ago. Mine was broken and as you all know these are impossible to find. He told me this ramp was used in the game development, probably an early prototype. You will notice there are machine cuts in the plastic, not ones that were molded. I'd be willing to sell it, I'm not sure what it's worth but probably a few hundred.

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#678 14 days ago
Quoted from tomterlec:

I have a ramp that I picked up from John Borg 10+ years ago. Mine was broken and as you all know these are impossible to find. He told me this ramp was used in the game development, probably an early prototype. You will notice there are machine cuts in the plastic, not ones that were molded. I'd be willing to sell it, I'm not sure what it's worth but probably a few hundred.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Two tubes of ORIGINAL Pringles?

#679 11 days ago

I'm not happy with how weak the flippers are, especially after playing for 10 minutes or more. (can't make the ramp anymore)
This is what I did already:
-replaced coilstops
-replaced sleeves
-replaced plungers and links
-adjusted eos
-adjusted angle of the machine to 6.5 degrees
-adjusted coil power to high

Anything more I can do?
The coils in my Frankenstein are 090-5030-00.
Thinking of pulling the coils out of my LOTR to try if it works better. (090-5020-20T)
Or would those be too strong?

#680 10 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

I'm not happy with how weak the flippers are, especially after playing for 10 minutes or more. (can't make the ramp anymore)
This is what I did already:
-replaced coilstops
-replaced sleeves
-replaced plungers and links
-adjusted eos
-adjusted angle of the machine to 6.5 degrees
-adjusted coil power to high
Anything more I can do?
The coils in my Frankenstein are 090-5030-00.
Thinking of pulling the coils out of my LOTR to try if it works better. (090-5020-20T)
Or would those be too strong?

Try looking at the end of stroke switches. When they contact, cuts power. Make them as far as you can. I have had this problem, before, usually helps.

#681 10 days ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

Try looking at the end of stroke switches. When they contact, cuts power. Make them as far as you can. I have had this problem, before, usually helps.

Thanks, I tried it but didn't work unfortunately.
I did find something out while looking at the eos switches: the left flipper is the only one with a problem.
Nomatter if the eos is open or closed, I can push it down really easily.
My multimeter is not fast enough to see what voltage it gets though. (Hold voltage of 6 volts is present at all flippers)
Starting to think the left flipper is not getting its 50 volts
Any way to measure that?

#682 10 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Thanks, I tried it but didn't work unfortunately.
I did find something out while looking at the eos switches: the left flipper is the only one with a problem.
Nomatter if the eos is open or closed, I can push it down really easily.
My multimeter is not fast enough to see what voltage it gets though. (Hold voltage of 6 volts is present at all flippers)
Starting to think the left flipper is not getting its 50 volts
Any way to measure that?

I have never found a reliable way to measure that. You have done everything you are supposed to. If it were me, I would question that one coil. I have a Tommy, recently, the upper flipper was weak, new, last resort, replaced it. That was it. Hard to figure out. If it isn’t too much trouble, swap coils, you will know that, for sure.

#683 10 days ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

I have never found a reliable way to measure that. You have done everything you are supposed to. If it were me, I would question that one coil. I have a Tommy, recently, the upper flipper was weak, new, last resort, replaced it. That was it. Hard to figure out. If it isn’t too much trouble, swap coils, you will know that, for sure.

Will swap left and right coils today and see what happens.
Thanks!

#684 10 days ago

Update on my left flipper issue:
As I took the coilstop off to switch the coils, I noticed that the actual stop came off..
These coilstops were placed (new) a month ago

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#685 10 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Update on my left flipper issue:
As I took the coilstop off to switch the coils, I noticed that the actual stop came off..
These coilstops were placed (new) a month ago [quoted image]

That’ll do it. Glad you found it.

#686 10 days ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

That’ll do it. Glad you found it.

Thank you!
Shame these lasted less then a month lol...
Going to message the seller.

UPDATE 19:52= I mailed the shop I got it from that they might have a bad batch laying around. Already got a message back now that they're going to contact the manufacturer about the coilstops as this is clearly not the right quality. Lucky to have such great pinball shops in such a small country

UDATE 21-11-20: My new servo motor is here!
It has black, red and green wires...

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#687 9 days ago

red positive black neg and signal green

#688 9 days ago

Thanks for everybody's help. I have the creature head working (YES!). Now the creature arms don’t work. I keep blowing a fuse (F5 on the power board). I’ve narrowed the problem to CN12 0n the main CPU board. I also don’t have 3 out 4 dome flashers working (also CN12 on the CPU). If I leave the flashers plugged in (but still don’t work) but disconnect the arm coil, the fuse doesn’t blow. Is this what the arm coil looks like on your pins?

Thoughts on next steps to troubleshoot the issue?

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#689 8 days ago

i know its alittle late now but you could have just popped the pins out of the connector instead of cutting the wires

#690 8 days ago
Quoted from Guido13:

Thanks for everybody's help. I have the creature head working (YES!). Now the creature arms don’t work. I keep blowing a fuse (F5 on the power board). I’ve narrowed the problem to CN12 0n the main CPU board. I also don’t have 3 out 4 dome flashers working (also CN12 on the CPU). If I leave the flashers plugged in (but still don’t work) but disconnect the arm coil, the fuse doesn’t blow. Is this what the arm coil looks like on your pins?
Thoughts on next steps to troubleshoot the issue?
[quoted image]

Looks linke someone put a capacitor parallel to the arm coil for whatever reason. Remove that cap

#691 6 days ago

Finally narrowed my creature arm problem to the Q26 transistor. Once I pulled the transistor (it was shorted), I stopped getting a blown fuse. I’ve order a new coil and transistor and hoping that problem is fixed. I’m curious if anybody knows about the dome flashers (top left, top right, and right above the flipper)...those three aren’t working. I’ve been unsuccessful identifying these on any schematic. From other videos I’ve watched, it seems that all three of those always fire together?? Does anybody know what Q transistor they are linked to? The bottom left flasher works just fine.

#692 4 days ago

Hi guys,

After gifting this machine to my dad for a birthday present 6 years ago, I've nicked it back off him and am finally getting round to making some aesthetic improvements. The ideas and advice in this thread is invaluable - so thanks to everyone who has contributed so far!

I have a question - which Mirror Blades should I get? I guess they come in different sizes but the few stockists I've seen don't haver specific Sega/Data East listed. I assume that I need Stern ones but thought I should check!

On that note - any advice on a stockist for the UK?

Thanks in advance.

#693 4 days ago
Quoted from GingerJono:

Hi guys,
After gifting this machine to my dad for a birthday present 6 years ago, I've nicked it back off him and am finally getting round to making some aesthetic improvements. The ideas and advice in this thread is invaluable - so thanks to everyone who has contributed so far!
I have a question - which Mirror Blades should I get? I guess they come in different sizes but the few stockists I've seen don't haver specific Sega/Data East listed. I assume that I need Stern ones but thought I should check!
On that note - any advice on a stockist for the UK?
Thanks in advance.

Pinball Decals is who I always use on blades. They have Sega- specific mirror blades. Good quality. Their target decals are good, too.

#694 4 days ago
Quoted from wugly:

red positive black neg and signal green

Thanks wugly.

So if red is 5v, black ground and green/blue signal, I will need to change the connector just like Guido13 did:
-the green/blue wire should be on pin 1
-the black wire should be on pin 2
-the red wire should be on pin 3
(So switch black with red)

Or am I missing something?
Bit scared to blow the motor up lol

20201126_194811 (resized).jpg

#695 4 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Thanks wugly.
So if red is 5v, black ground and green/blue signal, I will need to change the connector just like Guido13 did:
-the green/blue wire should be on pin 1
-the black wire should be on pin 2
-the red wire should be on pin 3
(So switch black with red)
Or am I missing something?
Bit scared to blow the motor up lol
[quoted image]

Sorry for double post but got an update:
Switched red and black wires and....THE HEAD MOVES!
Happy that it was an easy fix: only a new servo motor.
How do you adjust the head so it starts in the middle though?

Have to wait on a few leds now and will repaint Franks head and body, and than this project will be finished!

#696 4 days ago

Should be a screw in top of the head. Remove the screw and lift off and reposition the head

#697 3 days ago
Quoted from kba78:

Should be a screw in top of the head. Remove the screw and lift off and reposition the head

Thanks, found out how it works now
All fixed!

#698 1 day ago

Update: I finally traced all the wires from the flashers. The reason I couldn’t find the domes on a schematic....because they’re not there! Haha. Take a look at all the changes. Good times. Now to replace Q24 and hope for the best!

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