Hey guys! Just joined the club yesterday. Picked up a HUO locally and think it may be some sort of sample game? I noticed there are some slight differences on the playfield and plastic art. Some of the inserts do not have the white background around the words like the ball lock inserts, change scene insert, and special insert. There is no yellow outline around the Frankenstein guy below the lock inserts, the yellow tube above the pop bumpers has the bottom half white, and there is no black line outlining the artwork from the shooter lane. There is also a couple plastics that are missing wording on them. Anyone ever seen these differences before?

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I had one with the same playfield differences. I believe it was an early prototype. Questions: do your flipper bats have sonic or DE logo on them? What does the top of your backbox head art say: Sega or Data East?
The one I had was plastered with Data East makings and the game was produced as a Sega.

Mine is definitely not a prototype. It has Sega bats, and Sega on the cabinet. I believe it’s a sample game which are the first games released after the prototypes were made. It actually looks exactly like the game on the flyer. All the playfield and plastic differences are present on the flyer game as well.

It does have a Data East serial tag on the back but I’m not sure if they all have those or not.

They mostly had Data East tags. Here's was my art. Not many of these are thought to exist
The playfield was similar to yours except it had Data East flipper bats.

Don't know why the pic is sideways....

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Come on Nik!! I don’t misguide.

Is a prototype serial tag hand written? It is hard to find any info on those that had the Data East side art

Only prototypes or possible early test -wild games are DataEast. From one day to another Sega bought DataEast. It happend during the final stages of MSF production /development. So all games that where "officially" released quickly had the Sega logo printed on the head. Possibly they has the DE flipper bats though.

I haven't looked to see if that part is available but I thought of a way you could fix that. You might need a machinist, ha. You could cut off the rest of the remaining screw. Drill into the shaft with a bit that's diameter of the original extruding screw. Keep this very straight or Franky will have a crooked arm. Then get a headless screw(threaded rod) and a tap of the matching thread. Tap the hole you drilled and screw in the threaded rod. You'd probably want to use some heavy duty thread locker or maybe even super glue to hold the rod in. Make sure you've got the correct rod length worked out first(long enough to go through the arm and get the lock nut on it but short enough to not extrude from the arm sculpt. This is not any easy solution but I think it's a solution

Reassembling a Frank that says too long. Anyone know where this part goes?

It was with the rails under the apron but I can’t figure out where it goes.

It’s not on the rail chart in the manual either.

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That goes in the left return ramp drop off. Keeps the ball from damaging the ramp when it exits.

Thx!

I picked up a Frankenstein yesterday in a trade. Turns out this is the same one that GLSP3022 had and has been shown previously in this thread. It was the only sega large DMD I had not previously played. Man I have been missing out. What a cool machine.

Welcome it is a great Machine too bad no body sees that...

Back in the club!

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Used but good main ramp for sale on eBay UK
Will post worldwide. seller has other parts available I believe
Not mine by the way

Does this include the full ramp? It goes all across the top. Will it be on UK eBay? Thanks.

Good looking ramp. Shipping is pretty high to the USA. Thanks for posting.

Full ramp with switches etc
Playfield strip contact seller for other parts

I have stripped a full nice condition playfield, more parts will be listed shortly including a complete monster mech with control board.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mary-Shelleys-Frankenstein-Sega-Pinball-Machine-Ramp-Parts/124266415655?hash=item1ceedb0627:g:FaUAAOSwRqJfFLlA

The quoted international shipping is an ebay estimate. The buyer will be asked to pay the actual cost and I am happy to explore various shipping options.

Plastics

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I have had a couple of enquiries about the upper ramp with the lock diverts.

Here is a link to my listing on pinballinfo: https://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/sega-frankenstein-lock-mechs.46674/

The mechs are good but the plastic is damaged.

For anyone looking for metal railing for their Playfield, there is some on eBay.

had 1 extra set of custom target decals made and have now sold the machine. $25 shipped in the lower 48. Just pm me if interested

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Sold

Have the opportunity to buy a Frankenstein machine but I might need some advice on its value:

Just saw the game for the first time and man it is dirty Seems complete though! Dmd 100%, starts up and you can start a game. 2 biggest problems: Frankenstein head does not move (his arms do) and sound does not work. Also the cabinet has some damage (worn around flipperbuttons, scratches over cabinet and splitting in 1 corner) and the playfield holes are worn. The MPU board is not the prettiest, but the other ones don't seem to have 'fixes' or acid-/batterydamage. Now to think of a fair price to offer

Any help would be appreciated!

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Hi,
I have a pin2dmd XL model EVO for MSF and what is the best way to connect it without many adaptations, 18v or 12v?
I still haven't been able to make the feeding work. I took the cable from the original display (attached) and plugged it in the 18+ but I don't get a signal.
would anyone know to tell me where i should pull the power from the machine to the PIN2DMD EVO display?
in the comments I saw that you comment something about the CN6 connector, but it wouldn't be 5v and the display is 18v or 12v?
would anyone have a photo illustrating where I should pull the food?
Any help is very much appreciated thanks.

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Joined the club today
It is a mess, but I'm sure it will be nice when it is repaired and cleaned!
Unplayable at the moment, so gotta spend some time in it
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My sarcophagus kicks the ball out way too hard. (bounces against flipper, against 'ank' targets and sdtm..)
Anything I could do about that?
I already switched the coil with the weaker vuk coil, but that didn't make a lot of difference.

Just measured and some coils get 40 volts, but some (like the sarcophagus) get 72,5 volts on highest coil power.
If I put the coil power on normal, the voltages are 38 volts and 70 volts.
I believe the 70 volts should be 50 volts.

I would love those decals!

Voltage is okay according to my dad. (Peak voltage)
Changed the sarcophagus plunger to a new and slightly longer one, and it solved my problem

On to the next problem: Franks head

Sorry for the double post, but I'm looking for the upper ramp for my Frankenstein machine.
May be dirty but not cracked:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/104389

It seems that they are nowhere to be bought
If I don't find one, I will have to reinforce mine too.
My ramp has cracks near the diverters and on the right side where it is connected to the bracket.

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I think many of us could use that ramp. Mines epoxied together.

Mine, too. I have been looking for 1 for a few years,now.

Isn't there someone on Pinside who could make those?
I've asked for a ramp on Pinside, Facebook, a Dutch website and a German website and everyone needs this ramp haha.
In the meantime I'll try to fix the cracks.

My game only has 1 other real problem left: Frankensteins head does not work.
The head motion board does not get the correct input from the cpu board.
Connector cn3-1, cn3-8 and cn3-9 on the cpu board should give the clock, data and enable signals but they don't.
Thinking the problem might be the 6821 on 11B (closest to the connector) or a component that is an input for it.
I do have an oscilloscope and voltagemeter, but I could really use some guidance from someone as I'm stuck..
I also asked it in a Facebook group but it did not get me further a lot.
The game plays perfect 100%, except for the head.
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There is a new motion board in AUSTRALIA, on their EBay. I will bet it fixes your head.

Thank you!
But I think my problem is on the cpu board.
What voltages do you have on connector cn3-1, cn3-8 and cn3-9 if I may ask?

I would check mine for you but won't be home until this weekend.

Thank you bbaker2824 , very kind
No rush, the game will recieve a full playfield teardown with leds, protectors, new rubbers, target decals and a very good clean so will be looking into that first.

I installed the newest pinstadium today in our new Frankenstein. The fusion neo. This new version has a diffuser over the main LED strip used for the GI's. It keeps you from seeing the individual glare on the playfield of each LED in the strip. With the diffuser, it's a glow not a pointed light reflected back at you.

It's around $500 & it is absolutely amazing. They just had a $75 off sale... that I missed. Whoops! You could wait for the next sale or just buy em. IMHO, they're worth the $500. Even better if you could buy them on sale for $425 though!

This is the first one I've installed and thanks to cary hardy's youtube video, it was very straightforward and impossible to mess up. It took me about an hour as I was being careful and finicky with light color choices. If i get another one or move this one to another game, I'd be able to install in 30 mins I think.

The first pic is dark room, PF glass off, pinstadium off. >>>This game has Comet LEDs installed by the previous owner<<<

2nd pic is same darkness, PF glass off but with pinstadium warm white GI on.

3rd pic is overhead lights on in the room, PF glass on, pinstadium cool white GI on. These look much bluer in the pic than they are in person. This light matches well with all the blue on the playfield.

Last pic is lights on in the room, PF glass on and pinstadium off. I had the glass on in the last 2 pics to show how game would be in normal playing mode. Interestingly enough, more light under the glass means less glare on top of the glass for the player. This is an added benefit I hadn't even thought about.

What you can't see (without a video of gameplay) are the flashers in the "orion's belt" part of the pinstadium. this game has many insert flashers of different colors. There's a blue insert flasher, a yellow one and the previous owner put a blue flasher under frank. Plus, there's the 4 red flashers above the playfield. The orions belt gives you 4 separate pairs of wires that can be connected to 4 different flashers and the color can be programmed in the app to any color you choose. I chose to make the pinstadium flash red when the games red flasher activate, blue when frank or the blue insert flashed and yellow when the yellow insert flashed. This makes gameplay so much more exciting! Instead of 1 or 2 small flashers flashing, the entire PF flashes! And you can change the brightness of any LED in the pinstadium app. if the flash is too bright, just dial it back a little.

Such a cool aftermarket product.

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Possibly. Jody with Ramp-O-Matic is making a ton of new ramps this year. One person asked about Frankenstein, but didn't get a response. The legalities involved with Stern may get in the way. He hasn't mentioned anything about DE/Sega/Stern games, with all assets owned by Stern. Technically he can probably get away with clean room re-engineering ramps for this era as long as he uses his own molds and does not include copyrighted decals.

I'd definitely ask about it, may get his attention!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ramp-o-matic-ramp-thread

Thanks might do that!

Playfield teardown and clean completed, now I have to wait for the leds and target decals to arrive so I can start rebuilding!
What a difference this is

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Jody is a good guy. Tell him I need a ramp too.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGs7o2zHm7O/

warm white https://www.instagram.com/p/CGvFYSQHS52/?hl=en