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(Topic ID: 114789)

Mars, God of War Club 'n' Tech Emporium

By jasonbar

9 years ago


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#34 9 years ago
 
INK

Inkochnito

Pinside member

NL Piershil

12y 91,650 3,169 12

OP
Quoted from jasonbar:

Thanks for the tip. Where did you find this info? Hopefully not by just combing through the PF harness?
Alas, the far left diode on this strip is for the bottom left pop bumper's coil switch (the one farther from the PF, closed when the pop solenoid actuates). I'm seeking the diode for this pop's switch matrix switch (the switch closer to the PF, which is closed when the skirt pushes on the spoon).
I tried testing continuity from this switch's leads to all diode strip diode legs & don't see continuity...
Thanks,
-Jason

Hi Jason,

There are two kind of switches on the pop bumper.
The top one (actuated by the skirt) goes to the pop bumper board under the playfield.
The second one (actuated by the coil pulling down) goes into the switch matrix.

But I don't think switch 43 is your problem.
Did you check the switch matrix connector?
Take the connector off the board and look into the connector.
Look closely at pin 5 (yellow wire) and pin 13 (blue wire with orange striping).
Are they still making good contact?
Can you look through the connector?
If you can, chances are that the connector needs repinning.
Do you have a manual? If no, let me know (nice PDF).

1 year later
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#64 8 years ago
 
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Inkochnito

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NL Piershil

12y 91,650 3,169 12

Clear all the top parts off, clean the playfield very thoroughly and repair when needed, then clearcoat it.
That's what I would do....

2 years later
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#108 5 years ago
 
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Inkochnito

Pinside member

NL Piershil

12y 91,650 3,169 12

Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:

my mars has started this problem where any time i hit the right flipper button to change the light in the upper lanes, the lights change super fast and makes it almost impossible to correctly change the lighted lane and lit pop bumper. has anyone else ran into this problem?

Did you clean the lane change contacts?

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#110 5 years ago
 
INK

Inkochnito

Pinside member

NL Piershil

12y 91,650 3,169 12

Look under the playfield.
Find the right flipper.
There you will find a double stack of switch blades.
The one with the large round contacts is high voltage for the coil.
No need to do those.
The other has small contacts which is for the lane change.
Clean those contacts with a piece of paper or business card.
Sometimes a cottonswap with naptha will also work.

Do all this with the power OFF!!!!

1 year later
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#132 4 years ago
 
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Inkochnito

Pinside member

NL Piershil

12y 91,650 3,169 12

I have another ground upgrade for the system-80 (A&B) driver board.
The upgrade connects all 14 ground wires going to the driver board.

Gottlieb_System-80_Driver_board_Ground_update.pdfGottlieb_System-80_Driver_board_Ground_update.pdf
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#134 4 years ago
 
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Inkochnito

Pinside member

NL Piershil

12y 91,650 3,169 12

Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Thanks, even more to chew on. More information = more better. Have you tried this?

Yes, I've done several boards.
No problems what so ever.

Peter

2 months later
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#141 3 years ago
 
INK

Inkochnito

Pinside member

NL Piershil

12y 91,650 3,169 12

Quoted from Cherga:

Hey all, I joined the MGOW club a couple of weeks ago with a machine that had been sitting for at least 10 years unused. Got it home, checked fuses which were surprisingly all good and the correct values. Gave it a once over and not seeing anything glaringly obvious that looked out of sorts, I plugged it in and turned it on. The machine coins up, starts a game, a couple of solenoids fire and that’s it. “Prepare for battle” is spoken and lamps are lit but none of the switches and solenoids do anything. I performed the ground mods, cleaned up the connectors and contacts on the boards and still have the same result. Power supply is good and voltages are spot on. Bridge rectifiers in cabinet all test good, Original Orange cabinet capacitor has been replaced. Both Driver and MPU have had repairs done at some point... transistors on the driver and Z2 on the MPU has been socketed and replaced. Not sure where to go from here and am hoping someone can offer some suggestions. Thanks!

Did you insert 2 balls?

3 months later
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#216 3 years ago
 
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Inkochnito

Pinside member

NL Piershil

12y 91,650 3,169 12

Quoted from badjoe82:

Ya know, now that you've brought this up. Mine didn't come with scorecards at all. I found a set on I think it was IPDB but have no idea how to tell which cards to use with the game. I've got it set to 3 balls and replays instead of extra balls but how do you know what the points limit for the replay is? There are cards in that set for 300, 350, 400, 450 and 500.

I have a full set of cards in a file on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Including the recommended score levels card.

1 year later
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#240 2 years ago
 
INK

Inkochnito

Pinside member

NL Piershil

12y 91,650 3,169 12

There is a special bulletin about this ramp.
First thing to check is the EOS on the coil under the playfield.

ontarget_V2-5_may81.pdfontarget_V2-5_may81.pdf

2 weeks later
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#244 2 years ago
 
INK

Inkochnito

Pinside member

NL Piershil

12y 91,650 3,169 12

Quoted from toasterman04:

Yes i switched the coil with a good coil and took that out of the equation. Then i also replaced the ‘bottlecap transistor’ (just the one not all three) under the playfield. Now when i turn the game on the ramp automatically activates. So i turn it off and changes out the little transistor Q9 …. With no change…. And this is where i am now stuck.

If you are very shure the transistors are good, then you should check Z3 (SN74175N) on the driver board.
The transistor you replaced may be bad again if something went wroung in your earlier work.
Check you transistors with a DMM on diode setting.
You can also remove F18 (ramp fuse) under the playfield to keep the ramp from activating when diong measurements.
After removing the fuse, you can check which part is activating.

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