(Topic ID: 114789)

Mars, God of War Club 'n' Tech Emporium

By jasonbar

7 years ago


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  • 246 posts
  • 47 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 59 days ago by toasterman04
  • Topic is favorited by 19 Pinsiders

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There are 246 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.
#201 1 year ago

So the latest development for me. I've finally got the transistor and coil replaced and working for my multi-ball. The 'flash' lights on the launch lane don't flash when they're supposed to though. It's not even something I'd thought of before because I guess I'm dense. I knew the launch lane itself didn't work so I guess I just never thought to really look at the lights involved but they don't work apparently. Bulbs are good I took them out and tested them. All the connections underboard look good. Checked the connection to the driver board and it looks fine. Any ideas?

#202 1 year ago

It's kind of funny that we're both working on the same area of our machines at the same time. I finished up assembling the multiball kicker on mine too. Still didn't work so I followed that sketchup I did on my previous post. For both the stargate ramp and the multiball kicker I used the MJ2955 since the original transistors aren't really available and seem be a problem to begin with. I also did that 4.7k pullup resistor for both circuits. They're working great, I finally have multiball and the stargate ramp working!

badjoe82 Is that the blue insert you're talking about that's not flashing? I noticed mine did a dim flash when the mode first started but it soon went normal after that. I'm running the Pascal board though so might be a little different. If you're talking about the LED's on the tube, that totally threw me for a loop yesterday! I was like "Why are you not working now!!" Then I dug into it and realized those are supposed to be turned off when the ramp is up which I now have working.

On a side note now that I have the game mostly working now... What kind of scores do you people get on this game? Is rolling the scoreboard a thing on Mars? The last thing I needed to get was a new sound board since the one in the machine is toasted to the point it's not really worth fixing with all the lifted traces on it. While I was talking to Swemmer about the sound board he mentioned he's doing 7 digit displays. Worthwhile on a Mars?

#203 1 year ago

Well we suck so we managed to beat the default 440 by getting like 478 but that’s as good as we’ve done. lol

As for the lights both the insert and the whites under the plastic that are way poised to flash all 3 aren’t working.

#204 1 year ago
Quoted from Firebird71:

What kind of scores do you people get on this game? Is rolling the scoreboard a thing on Mars?

In time you will roll it twice! Yes 2 mil plus.
Very addictive machine for me.
-Mike

#205 1 year ago

Hi,
I used to love this game when I was a teenager (actualy this is the first machine I played on).
Many moons laters, I bought myself a Mars, and it's nothing that I remembered.
This is a drain machine!
Really painfull and frustrated to play with.
Usually a 3 balls 2mn game.
And sometimes, it lets you play few minutes more, but this is rare (my highscore is +800000, but average is 50000 at best)
How come this machine is so mean and different than the Mars I used to play in my teen years?

#206 1 year ago
Quoted from hitcher:

Hi,
I used to love this game when I was a teenager (actualy this is the first machine I played on).
Many moons laters, I bought myself a Mars, and it's nothing that I remembered.
This is a drain machine!
Really painfull and frustrated to play with.
Usually a 3 balls 2mn game.
And sometimes, it lets you play few minutes more, but this is rare (my highscore is +800000, but average is 50000 at best)
How come this machine is so mean and different than the Mars I used to play in my teen years?

Mars God of War, the game you love... To hate. It's the brutal gameplay that keeps me coming back to this ,I love the challenge. It's no coincidence it's game number 666. It can be a beast.

#207 1 year ago
Quoted from hitcher:

This is a drain machine!
Really painfull and frustrated to play with.
Usually a 3 balls 2mn game.
And sometimes, it lets you play few minutes more, but this is rare (my highscore is +800000, but average is 50000 at best)
How come this machine is so mean and different than the Mars I used to play in my teen years?

Could be a number of things. Bad memory on your part of it being easier than you think. There are a number of settings to make the game more difficult or friendly and there are even some different post placements to make the machine more conservative or liberal. Mine can be damned mean. The right war base tends to release it's multi ball and unless you give the machine a gentle shake it flies straight down the damn hole, lol!

#208 1 year ago

Right, you're coming back because you want to beat him (and it's pretty easy when it lets you play more than 2mn) but this is the most frustrating machine I ever played, and I mean THIS machine, not this game.

I'm pretty sure the one I played in my teens wasn't that mean because I woudn't be able to afford to play it.
Today with free play it's ok to lose after 2mn, not when you're spending your pocket money.

I noticed too the right capture can be evil. To fix it (sort of) you must be sure the machine is perfectly leveled.
After, it, it's OK: it still happens, but only sometimes.

I saw on the manual you can move 2 posts to make it more or less difficult, but what kind of other settings are you talking about?

#209 1 year ago

Scoring settings about at what points levels the 3/4x bonuses and things light up for scoring. Of course you could go 5 ball too, or activate the last chance and extra ball features. Or at least that's what it sounds like from reading the manual. I've read it 3 times and still can't figure out which scoring cards go with which settings. Mind you this is my first machine ever and I'm still struggling on a lot of things.

#210 1 year ago

I thought you were talking about settings to make it less mean, not settings to rise score faster.

Mine is set at 300 000 and 3 balls.
As I said before it's pretty easy to beat, as long it lets you play more than 2mn a play!
Usually mine lets me touch first ball once, none for the second, and 4 or 5 times the last ball
Sometime I can play more, and then it's enjoyable as score is rising fast (especially with Hyperforce II) .

#211 1 year ago

Ya know, now that you've brought this up. Mine didn't come with scorecards at all. I found a set on I think it was IPDB but have no idea how to tell which cards to use with the game. I've got it set to 3 balls and replays instead of extra balls but how do you know what the points limit for the replay is? There are cards in that set for 300, 350, 400, 450 and 500.

#212 1 year ago

You'd have to set your adjustments to match the card. Or adjust the card to match your adjustments

#213 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

You'd have to set your adjustments to match the card. Or adjust the card to match your adjustments

Which adjustments though? There's no guide as to what the adjustments set that scoring to in the manual. Like I said mine is set to max 8 credit, 3 ball, match feature, single replay, normal mode, , replay, playfield special and both 31/32 set to liberal.

#214 1 year ago
Quoted from badjoe82:

Which adjustments though? There's no guide as to what the adjustments set that scoring to in the manual. Like I said mine is set to max 8 credit, 3 ball, match feature, single replay, normal mode, , replay, playfield special and both 31/32 set to liberal.

section VII-D on page 11

#215 1 year ago
Quoted from zacaj:

section VII-D on page 11

Thank you and also, I’m an idiot.

#216 1 year ago
Quoted from badjoe82:

Ya know, now that you've brought this up. Mine didn't come with scorecards at all. I found a set on I think it was IPDB but have no idea how to tell which cards to use with the game. I've got it set to 3 balls and replays instead of extra balls but how do you know what the points limit for the replay is? There are cards in that set for 300, 350, 400, 450 and 500.

I have a full set of cards in a file on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Including the recommended score levels card.

#217 1 year ago

Question for the peanut gallery. What is a better company; Ni-Wumpf or Rotten Dog?

I ask because my driver board is no end of headaches and I think I'm going to buy a new one to replace. I've heard people say things about RD products being not great; but am curious to opinions? Anybody have experience with both?

#218 1 year ago

When I replaced the power supply, MPU and driver boards on my Mars ~5 years ago it was a toss up between the Swemmer boards and the Pascal all in one. In the end I went with the Pascal since I liked the idea of completely eliminating the need for the Gottlieb ground mod. (Also from what I gather on the Pascal site, their boards are easier for you to modify your machines to use 7 digit displays)

My sound was still the original board though and it has something like 30 lifted traces and as many jumpers on it from some previous owner/repairman. Decided that was a lost cause so checked in with Swemmer for his sound board rather than order and ship from France during covid. Just had the sound board arrive today and it looks pretty good.

That leads me to a question for everyone here. I've got sound working on the machine for the first time ever on my machine. It seems to be missing one part though.... The sound effects from hitting targets etc as well as the speech seem to be working fine. What isn't working though is the background music/tone. Anyone got a recommendation on where I should look to see why this isn't working? Machine has a new Pascal all in one board plus the Swemmer sound board. I rebuilt the sound power supply (Although I couldn't find a 4800uF cap for it so went with a 4700uf). I'm wondering though, on stock machines does the software have a setting/is there a jumper on the MPU to turn off the background sound? If so I'm guessing Pascal did the same on the all in one board and it might be turned off?

I'm attaching a pic Swemmer sent my way when I was emailing him about the sound board. Maybe give him an email and see what his price is for the driver board badjoe82

0280 (resized).jpg
#219 1 year ago

Background sound is a dip switch on the sound board

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2 weeks later
#220 1 year ago

Been about a month, right? So, naturally it's time for a problem to crop up. Been playing just fine; no problems and then starting yesterday the game doesn't want to boot. Turn it on, I get playfield and backbox GI along with the tracers. Top 4 displays don't light. The bottom credit display shows a zero and after a while will turn off but the game itself never boots. Fuses good, connections tight, power supply still good. Confused. Any ideas?

3 weeks later
#221 1 year ago

I just picked up a Mars God of War and have a similar issue with the displays. Game boots up. GI lights all work. Top four displays and credit display are out. Anyone have similar issues? Thanks in advance.

#222 1 year ago
Quoted from Clintonian:

Top four displays and credit display are out.

Sounds like your missing display voltages. Start at the cord. Work your way through the fuses, bridges, replace the old orange filter cap. then up to the power supply to make sure you've got all of the voltages.

If voltages are all good. report back. do not unplug any connectors with the power on. especially the ones that go out to the displays.

#223 1 year ago

Replaced power cord, removed Data Sentry battery and replaced, replaced fuse block, reflowed solder on header pins, added 5V and ground mods to wire harness. Voltages at mpu are solid. After checking board contacts and reconnecting harnesses the game booted up and played two balls before reseting. Issue with the large driver board harness! Glad that the problem is found

2 weeks later
#224 1 year ago

Can anyone help me out and let me know what the prop channel/playfield lift assembly hardware is for attaching it to the cabinet bracket? I'm putting back together my game, and though I took a ton of pictures inevitably I've missed a few things :/. I'm not sure which screw attaches the arm, and whether it uses a washer or anything.

4 months later
#225 1 year ago

Hi all. I thought I would start here first. I want to apologize before hand as I am sure this will be convoluted. In a nut shell I have a MGoW I am working on I have 3 MPU boards. One is what should be in it ver 2 I think it is. And the board works fine, no problems. I have a rotten dog CPU that works but is missing the last sound when the game ends. I get the voice but the sound is missing. I first thought it might be normal with the board like with the Black Knight magna save issues. I have an older version B cpu that has been modified and acutely came out of this one with the same issue all but the final sound was working, until I worked on it. I replaced the dip switches, I knew some were bad and just did them all. I replaced Z 31 also. Now I get no display for credits, I do get ball in play and match. And again no final sound. I’m not sure what I could have messed up yet. I did repin all but the wire connect between the cpu and the driver board (working on that now). The one board worked so the connections are there. I don’t know why. I did the ground mods, rebuilt the PS replaced the cap in the bottom of the machine; someone did replace it with a 16v cap. I thought it might be that since both boards that were in the game before hand might have taken a hit from something that wasn’t right beforehand. Any ideas it would be appreciated.

#226 1 year ago
Quoted from Troyster42:

Hi all. I thought I would start here first. I want to apologize before hand as I am sure this will be convoluted. In a nut shell I have a MGoW I am working on I have 3 MPU boards. One is what should be in it ver 2 I think it is. And the board works fine, no problems. I have a rotten dog CPU that works but is missing the last sound when the game ends. I get the voice but the sound is missing. I first thought it might be normal with the board like with the Black Knight magna save issues. I have an older version B cpu that has been modified and acutely came out of this one with the same issue all but the final sound was working, until I worked on it. I replaced the dip switches, I knew some were bad and just did them all. I replaced Z 31 also. Now I get no display for credits, I do get ball in play and match. And again no final sound. I’m not sure what I could have messed up yet. I did repin all but the wire connect between the cpu and the driver board (working on that now). The one board worked so the connections are there. I don’t know why. I did the ground mods, rebuilt the PS replaced the cap in the bottom of the machine; someone did replace it with a 16v cap. I thought it might be that since both boards that were in the game before hand might have taken a hit from something that wasn’t right beforehand. Any ideas it would be appreciated.

Im not sure as to why you are missing sounds, but I did find something interesting about changing out chips in System 80 MPU boards. Some of the modern chips won't work in these early boards. Take a look at this list: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-80-chip-replacement#post-4139713

This may be why your displays are not working.

#227 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Im not sure as to why you are missing sounds, but I did find something interesting about changing out chips in System 80 MPU boards. Some of the modern chips won't work in these early boards. Take a look at this list: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-80-chip-replacement#post-4139713
This may be why your displays are not working.

Thanks for the reply, I have seen that chart but thanks for the link. I did use a 74LS08 for Z31 but that one is only for the sounds. I had the small display before hand working and now I don't, I need to look at the dipswitch leads and see if any tie to the displays, I don't think so but I want to make sure.

2 weeks later
#228 1 year ago

So I finally mounted my back glass to the inside of swinging door. I used some J clips I found listed on pinside to mount the bottom and one side. The other side is held on with a pair of plastic clips.
94438B11-14D2-4B9D-998C-21184C01AF9F (resized).jpeg
4420397E-7D64-4AC1-9154-77D175A972CB (resized).jpeg

The machine looks so much better with both back glasses mounted up again. Since I bought the machine, the inner back glass has been out of the machine because one of the original bottom clips broke.
310F8730-FE15-447D-AA12-0C45257FB7B4 (resized).jpeg

#229 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

mounted my back glass to the inside of swinging door.

I sooo need to do this. I absolutely hate opening my backbox.
...fear of glass simply falling out or becoming chipped from those cheap clips.

#230 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

So I finally mounted my back glass to the inside of swinging door. I used some J clips I found listed on pinside to mount the bottom and one side. The other side is held on with a pair of plastic clips.
[quoted image]

Where did you find those J clips? Any chance you could point out the thread or link here on Pinside?

Thanks.

#231 1 year ago

I got the J channel here: https://www.mcmaster.com/8427A52

You only need one three foot stick. Mine is fully supported along the bottom of the glass with the J channel, andthe piece I trimmed off the bottom holding the glass in on the upper left side. The right (latch) side is held in with just a couple of 1/4 inch plastic mirror mounts.

I ordered more channel thinking I would use it on the bottom and both sides, but after I started mounting the glass, I realized the way the frame is built, you cant slide out the glass from the top. It has to be mounted such that the glass can be tipped out. With my arrangement, you can remove the mirror mounts, slide the glass to the side, and lift out the glass.

#232 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

I got the J channel here: https://www.mcmaster.com/8427A52
You only need one three foot stick. Mine is fully supported along the bottom of the glass with the J channel, andthe piece I trimmed off the bottom holding the glass in on the upper left side. The right (latch) side is held in with just a couple of 1/4 inch plastic mirror mounts.
I ordered more channel thinking I would use it on the bottom and both sides, but after I started mounting the glass, I realized the way the frame is built, you cant slide out the glass from the top. It has to be mounted such that the glass can be tipped out. With my arrangement, you can remove the mirror mounts, slide the glass to the side, and lift out the glass.

Thank you. I am in the process of resurrecting a Volcano that was purchased as a project with no back glasses. The outer frame was in rough shape so I swapped out a decent frame from a parts Mars God of War. Just got my BGresto back glasses and made “clips”, but would rather use the J channel. Going to order some right away.

3 months later
#233 8 months ago

If anyone has the time, could someone send me a picture of one side of the backbox to cab mounting plate/bolts/washers? Mine came with a mashup of different sized washers. I want to figure out how many bolts and what washers were used in that area.

Thanks

1 month later
#234 7 months ago

Anyone know anything about or have scans of these plastics for MGOW? Are they prototypes?

pasted_image (resized).png
#235 7 months ago
Quoted from slghokie:

Anyone know anything about or have scans of these plastics for MGOW? Are they prototypes?
[quoted image]

Well that one on the right is for force II, isn't it?

#236 7 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Well that one on the right is for force II, isn't it?

zacaj you are right! So looks like they just combined plastics from 2 machines.

1 month later
#237 6 months ago

Updated my MGoW with LEDs.
Before update
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With new LEDs
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It makes such a difference

2 months later
#238 3 months ago

If anyone needs a new tube, I have them available now here: https://rampomatic.com/products/gottlieb-mars-god-of-war-clear-tube-d-20894?_pos=6&_sid=d4251d346&_ss=r

20220216_174244 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#239 77 days ago

Hey guys… my ramp on my mars god of war doesn't work and i do not have any schematics. Anyone know what activates the ramp coil? Is it a switch or the game board? And if the game board what connector?

#240 76 days ago

There is a special bulletin about this ramp.
First thing to check is the EOS on the coil under the playfield.

ontarget_V2-5_may81.pdf

1 week later
#241 66 days ago

I had issues with my ramp as well. The fix in the end for me was when I replaced the three old bottle cap transistors under the pf.

#242 61 days ago

Yes i switched the coil with a good coil and took that out of the equation. Then i also replaced the ‘bottlecap transistor’ (just the one not all three) under the playfield. Now when i turn the game on the ramp automatically activates. So i turn it off and changes out the little transistor Q9 …. With no change…. And this is where i am now stuck.

#243 61 days ago
Quoted from toasterman04:

Yes i switched the coil with a good coil and took that out of the equation. Then i also replaced the ‘bottlecap transistor’ (just replaced the one not all three) under the playfield. Now when i turn the game on the ramp automatically activates. So i turn it off and changes out the little transistor Q9 …. With no change…. And this is where i am now stuck.

#244 61 days ago
Quoted from toasterman04:

Yes i switched the coil with a good coil and took that out of the equation. Then i also replaced the ‘bottlecap transistor’ (just the one not all three) under the playfield. Now when i turn the game on the ramp automatically activates. So i turn it off and changes out the little transistor Q9 …. With no change…. And this is where i am now stuck.

If you are very shure the transistors are good, then you should check Z3 (SN74175N) on the driver board.
The transistor you replaced may be bad again if something went wroung in your earlier work.
Check you transistors with a DMM on diode setting.
You can also remove F18 (ramp fuse) under the playfield to keep the ramp from activating when diong measurements.
After removing the fuse, you can check which part is activating.

#245 59 days ago

Ok i will replace both transistors again and the diode on the coil. And if the results do not change i will look into that chip. Thanks for the tips. I will update the results

#246 59 days ago

Thank you so much for your comment… i re read it a few times and you were 100% right… “if you were sure your transistors were right” i used and incorrect transistor on the first replacement which gave me no positive results. Once i stood back and ‘kept it simple’ and listened to your first sentence, i re-replaced both transistors and ALL IS GOOD!!

Thanks so much for the help. I will donate to pinside!!

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