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(Topic ID: 114789)

Mars, God of War Club 'n' Tech Emporium


By jasonbar

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 219 posts
  • 41 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 days ago by zacaj
  • Topic is favorited by 17 Pinsiders

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There are 219 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 5.
#151 3 months ago

So I had my big parts order arrive today. The flipper rebuild kits came in so hopefully I can fix the sticking flippers that were blowing fuses on me.

I see an issue that that I've never done before. How do I replace the plungers on these? Looks to me like I need to press out the pin? Looks like it's really stuck in there any advice? Also the kit did not come with new ones, are we normally able to save these?

Also, on the new plunger, I see a second roll pin that is much more protruding than on the original. Is this something I'm supposed to grind down to match the original?

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#152 3 months ago
Quoted from Firebird71:

So I had my big parts order arrive today. The flipper rebuild kits came in so hopefully I can fix the sticking flippers that were blowing fuses on me.
I see an issue that that I've never done before. How do I replace the plungers on these? Looks to me like I need to press out the pin? Looks like it's really stuck in there any advice? Also the kit did not come with new ones, are we normally able to save these?
Also, on the new plunger, I see a second roll pin that is much more protruding than on the original. Is this something I'm supposed to grind down to match the original?
[quoted image]

I use a punch to hammer the old roll pin out, then put the new plunger in, and hammer the roll pin back in

the second roll pin is fine, you can ignore it

#153 3 months ago

Does anyone have a parts machine? I'm putting one together that came to me in pieces. At a minimum I need some plastics, power board, LED strip, aux lamp driver for the LED strip.

Also, I need some wiring info for the LED strip aux driver board, I have the white, white-blue wires for that connector, the schematics show a "not used" third connection that I'm not sure about, so a picture of the connector (input) for that board will help.

Finally, near the spot for the LED driver board is a single connector labeled "A9-J1" that has no apparent mate.

Thank you in advance for your help, and look forward to this project!

#154 3 months ago

Thanks for the tip on the punch. Found a pin punch at the local hardware store and it ended up being much easier than I expected. Just time consuming with 4 flippers on this machine! So far no blown fuses on my 24v circuit!

kilmarnock1350 Here's some pics from my machine, hopefully it helps a little. A9-P1 goes up into the LED strip connector from what I can tell. That LED strip is super basic, 10 LED's and a resistor. You could probably get a blank PCB a sharpie and some etching chemical and just make your own (been 10 years since I did this, think it was cupric or ferric chloride to do this).

On a somewhat related note, any recommendations on troubleshooting these lights? My LED strip has never worked since I've owned the machine. The resistor on the strip looks pretty cooked but I'm guessing there's some components I should be replacing on the animator board too?

I'm having a similar issue where my infinity lights are not working correctly. only one set blinks properly, one set is always on and then goes slightly dimmer when it should actually be blinking on normally. The rest of them are permanently stuck on. I'm still super new to this stuff so reflowed all the solder joints to see if it was as simple as that, didn't change a thing. The electrolytic caps on these boards I'm guessing are just for the timing so probably need to be replaced but not the culprit yeah? Should I replace all the transistors next? Or would I be better to look at the IC's?

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#155 3 months ago

I've been restoring my playfield for the past 3-4, 6 months, I don't know, but it's been in my garage in my makeshift paint booth while I've labored away with touch-ups. Following Vin's guide to playfield restoration, located here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration , which has been invaluable and inspired me to get a machine to restore, I've followed his advice and used Createx paints and 2-PAC auto clear and finally put my last coat of clear on today. Because of the infamous non-adhesive Mylar circles of death that surrounded each pop bumper the only real place in dire need of touching up was the planet in the middle of the playfield where perfect round circles were chewed into an otherwise serviceable board. Since I couldn't match the red or the orange I ended up repainting the entire planet... several times, but I won't go into that.

What saved me a lot of time was the black Molotow marker paint pen. I was able to go around the entire starfield and just paint directly over any blemishes with the pen which saved me from having to mask but more importantly it saved me from having to come up with a plan to paint what needed to be black while saving the intricately placed star fields all over the board, not to mention the headache to follow if the plan didn't work out. After spraying the 2-Pac these touch-up areas are hardly noticeable. Once again, not perfect, however a great improvement. I didn't spray an ounce of black, just used the pen everywhere including places around the eject holes, blotchy areas around the inserts, the bottom of the ramps and a huge chewed up area that was created by the apron. I also used the pen to mark over planking with reasonable success. I thought I'd share this since it is first hand experience using this particular pen on this exact machine. I don't know if the results would be as good on other machines although I imagine they would be.

I'll be letting my playfield sit for a month or so and then get it polished up. I'll post pictures when I'm done and I'd love to hear your honest opinions about the work. It's my first pin restore and I have thick skin and don't mind negative criticism. As long it's constructive, it can be invaluable pointing out things that were missed or wasn't noticed. Obviously positive remarks will be well received as well.

I also bought me one of them snow-speeders mentioned previously.

1 month later
#156 70 days ago

My tube is sliding over and the plastic that holds it is almost completely broken, any suggestions?

#157 69 days ago
Quoted from TwoHeartedMale:My tube is sliding over and the plastic that holds it is almost completely broken, any suggestions?

I remembered seeing this from early in the thread,maybe this will help.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mars-god-of-war-club-n-tech-emporium/page/2#post-2933226

#158 65 days ago

Thought I'd drop an introduction. I'm Joe. Joined the Pinside a few days ago and picked up a MGOW yesterday. I'm sure you'll be hearing more from me as I slowly reassemble it. Currently just concentrating on cleaning the field up. It clearly sat for a few years.

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#159 65 days ago
Quoted from badjoe82:

Thought I'd drop an introduction. I'm Joe. Joined the Pinside a few days ago and picked up a MGOW yesterday. I'm sure you'll be hearing more from me as I slowly reassemble it. Currently just concentrating on cleaning the field up. It clearly sat for a few years.
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Welcome aboard, doesn't look to be in too bad of shape. Good luck.

#160 63 days ago

Just picked up my first pin and MGOW yesterday. In good playing shape other than 1 dead pop-bumber and sticky left flipper. Dropping in to say hi.

Read through a lot on this game and curious how people are setting up their game.

I saw lot of mentions for setting up higher table tilt and running the game fast. What angle are people using/recommending and also what flipper upgrades (some mentioned stronger flippers to counter the higher tilt and still make the ramp shot).

Also curious if anyone changed up or modded anyting on their pin. Saw some different led colors and curious if anyone has changed anything else like playfield lights or rubber colors etc. Saw someone found the snowspeeder toy which is pretty cool.

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#161 63 days ago

I'm jealous that you got yours in working condition JDentor you lucky dog. Looks nice. I know basically nothing about changing it's height, etc... I know I was going to set mine up for 5 ball play but that's about it. As for MODS I was thinking about trying to change the launcher handle. I recall seeing one at one point that had a light up planet mars on it that I thought was neat. Also the ships in the games art look a lot like the snow speeders from Star Wars so I was going to get a couple models of those and set them up top like a topper.

#162 60 days ago

Yeah I did get pretty lucky. It’s a really fun game. I put it into 5 ball mode to get the hang of it and now switching it back for proper challenge/Play.

I’ve been thinking about changing up some of the led colors mainly to give it a little more contrast and interest. Mostly thinking of how to make the tube little more visually interesting with blue lights and maybe light haze blue glow in the dark paint to give it a portal effect or something.

#163 60 days ago

I don't think I ever measured the actual height I have mine set up at. It was just a matter of getting the stargate ramp to function the way I liked. Too high of an angle and you can't make the shot but not so easy as to hit the shot every single time. For the "tube shot" tube itself I just bought a hunk of clear tube off amazon and cut it to length. The original clear P clip mounts are apparently impossible to find so I had to settle for white to mount the tube.
For mods the only one that everyone should do is to properly mount the inner backglass and get rid of those stupid spring clips. I bought aluminum "J" channel from Mcmaster and used that to secure it to the outer glass frame. I also scanned the inner backglass recently but the scans look kind of shitty since its mirrored. Maybe one day I will figure out a better way to scan it so it comes out better.

#164 60 days ago
Quoted from djentor:

Yeah I did get pretty lucky. It’s a really fun game. I put it into 5 ball mode to get the hang of it and now switching it back for proper challenge/Play.

For what it's worth, there's no shame in leaving this game set up at five balls. The game-play can be incredibly brutal with this title,even for an experienced player. One of the reasons I appreciate this game so much.

#165 60 days ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

For what it's worth, there's no shame in leaving this game set up at five balls. The game-play can be incredibly brutal with this title,even for an experienced player. One of the reasons I appreciate this game so much.

Going from memory alone(!), I recall being on 5 balls for a while & then switching to 3 balls, because there was actually some aspect of gameplay (I think it was the max cap on the bonus) that was smaller. I think I was unable to light the 20 insert in the bonus lights when it was set to 5 balls; it would light only the 10.

How's that for a specific & factual post?

Thanks,
-Jason

#166 60 days ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Going from memory alone(!), I recall being on 5 balls for a while & then switching to 3 balls, because there was actually some aspect of gameplay (I think it was the max cap on the bonus) that was smaller. I think I was unable to light the 20 insert in the bonus lights when it was set to 5 balls; it would light only the 10.
How's that for a specific & factual post?
Thanks,
-Jason

you miss this game, don't you?

#167 59 days ago

Anybody with a parts machine by chance have the center drop plastic? PM me! Thank you.

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#168 59 days ago
Quoted from Apinjunkie:

you miss this game, don't you?

Of course! Tough to part with MGOW, but there's a sweet Space Shuttle in its spot, so all's good. :]

-Jason

#169 59 days ago
Quoted from 20eyes:

I don't think I ever measured the actual height I have mine set up at. It was just a matter of getting the stargate ramp to function the way I liked. Too high of an angle and you can't make the shot but not so easy as to hit the shot every single time. For the "tube shot" tube itself I just bought a hunk of clear tube off amazon and cut it to length. The original clear P clip mounts are apparently impossible to find so I had to settle for white to mount the tube.
For mods the only one that everyone should do is to properly mount the inner backglass and get rid of those stupid spring clips. I bought aluminum "J" channel from Mcmaster and used that to secure it to the outer glass frame. I also scanned the inner backglass recently but the scans look kind of shitty since its mirrored. Maybe one day I will figure out a better way to scan it so it comes out better.

Yeah the ramp is a challenge for sure. I have a harder time getting the shot lined up perfectly. Seems like the tip of the flipper just makes it up the left war base. Same for the right war base shot. I did realign the flippers with the lanes because they were a little high in my opinion and I couldn’t even hit the bases without a lucky hit.

Any chance you recall or can see what tube diameter you ordered?

I have a 3D printer so I think I can print a new transparent tube mount if I breaks.

#170 59 days ago

kilmarnock1350 I picked up the polycarbonate this past weekend to start making a middle target plastic as mine is also shot. I'm just going to do the stars and space like on the other plastics and then 3D print a couple of the spaceships I modeled a while back.

I ordered a set of rubbers from Titan. There's a premade set someone made for our game, all blacks and then orange for the flippers. Looks pretty good.

On to the flippers, this is fresh off the printer. Clear red resin, not as hollow as the original so should be able to stand up to some abuse. Not sure what colour to go with the Roman helmet and gladius, any suggestions? I'm running blacklights in the room where the machines are so I was thinking of going neon orange to really make them visible in a dimly lit room. Will need to wet sand the parts a bit and clearcoat as well to really make the clear effect show.

Thinking of possibly doing some custom clear red lane guides as well as some caps for the plastics if I can find something not too in your face. Will need to research more flex agents in the resin for those though as they won't have a Titan band between them and the steel ball.

Like djentor mentioned, I'm sure one of us can draw something up and print to hold the tube in place. If anyone wants some of those spaceships or something else made up too let me know.

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#171 58 days ago

firebird71 Those are awesome. I agree that especially with black lights a neon orange would be the obvious choice for color on the helmet and sword. Otherwise a flat orange for regular lighted rooms maybe. Very cool idea.

#172 58 days ago
Quoted from djentor:I have a 3D printer so I think I can print a new transparent tube mount if I breaks.

I wouldn't print the tube if you can buy this one cheap: amazon.com link »

#173 58 days ago
Quoted from Firebird71:

picked up the polycarbonate this past weekend to start making a middle target plastic as mine is also shot.

I sourced the missing plastic, however thank you for your reply!

#174 58 days ago

from firebird71
If anyone wants some of those spaceships or something else made up too let me know.

I might be down for two, maybe three of those 3D rendered spaceships. I've got the micro machine one but I really like the way yours came out looking. I could do the print clean up and painting myself. (kinda my thing thing) I'm curious to see how those clear pop caps come out if you pursue that. Might be interested, I'm trying to get away from the Roman soldier head theme a little, that said those custom flippers you put together are absolutely amazing. I've got nothing but time, just Gathering up parts for the rebuild which will probably be in the spring. But do let me know what you would need to get for a couple of those spaceships. Keep up the great work, this title has a lot of room for customization.

#175 57 days ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

I wouldn't print the tube if you can buy this one cheap: amazon.com link »

I would print the clip mount not the whole tube lol. I agree it would be silly to print. Thanks for the Amazon link

#176 57 days ago

Cleaning up my drop target banks and each target has 2 springs. A number of them are missing and most are pretty stretched and worn. Can anyone point me at the replacements I should get? I can’t find part numbers listed in my manual.

#177 54 days ago

A little before and after for this weekends tinkering.

First up: The central drop target plastic some previous owner had made. Definitely a little worse for wear.

Next up: Took way longer than I'd hoped but I now have a drop target plastic that doesn't bother me when I look at it. Used polycarbonate since it seems to have a better reputation for holding up in a pin. Cut it out with a band saw and I recently inherited a nice drill press to do some clean hole drilling. Wet sanded the edges from there.

The underside paint job isn't perfect by any means but it's good enough for my first shot at doing something like this. Blobbed on some white acrylic paint for the stars then spray canned on the black. Then took a hobby knife to scrape away the still wet acrylic and the black that was over top of it getting us back down to the plastic. From there I took a white rattle can and did a layer of that on the underside. Does a half decent job of illuminating the stars and keeping the black space darker (If I were to make this again, I wonder how it would look if I actually brought some of the red planet onto the plastic instead of having it purely black?) . If anyone knows a better process to get the star effect/ paint the underside of plastics please let me know.

Drilled a fourth hole for the space ship and this one I printed at a slightly larger scale and printed it in one piece with its base to mount to the plastic. Painted it up and tapped the resin base for a bolt to run up from the underside of the plastic. Not that the spots are overly visible from where the player stands but the engine exhaust bits are done in a UV reactive orange and the headlights are in a UV yellow since I'm going to be using blacklights in the game room.

On a totally unrelated note, I ordered new IC's, caps and transistors for the animator boards since they've never worked right since I've had the machine. Once I know that's the issue, I'll be putting the inner backglass back in place. Mine has the paint all there and I want to keep it that way. What I do see on it though is that there are a few spots where the red has begun to lift off the glass in a circle. It's all there and I'm sure if I ran my fingernail along it I could get it to flake maybe? Anyways, what should I do to keep that red paint held in place? Spraying on clearcoat seems like it would be useless in this case. Could I get a sheet of mylar or something and stick it over the entire back side of the backglass? Or would this shrink and expand and destroy it in the long term?

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#178 53 days ago
Quoted from Firebird71:

A little before and after for this weekends tinkering.
First up: The central drop target plastic some previous owner had made. Definitely a little worse for wear.
Next up: Took way longer than I'd hoped but I now have a drop target plastic that doesn't bother me when I look at it. Used polycarbonate since it seems to have a better reputation for holding up in a pin. Cut it out with a band saw and I recently inherited a nice drill press to do some clean hole drilling. Wet sanded the edges from there.
The underside paint job isn't perfect by any means but it's good enough for my first shot at doing something like this. Blobbed on some white acrylic paint for the stars then spray canned on the black. Then took a hobby knife to scrape away the still wet acrylic and the black that was over top of it getting us back down to the plastic. From there I took a white rattle can and did a layer of that on the underside. Does a half decent job of illuminating the stars and keeping the black space darker (If I were to make this again, I wonder how it would look if I actually brought some of the red planet onto the plastic instead of having it purely black?) . If anyone knows a better process to get the star effect/ paint the underside of plastics please let me know.
Drilled a fourth hole for the space ship and this one I printed at a slightly larger scale and printed it in one piece with its base to mount to the plastic. Painted it up and tapped the resin base for a bolt to run up from the underside of the plastic. Not that the spots are overly visible from where the player stands but the engine exhaust bits are done in a UV reactive orange and the headlights are in a UV yellow since I'm going to be using blacklights in the game room.
On a totally unrelated note, I ordered new IC's, caps and transistors for the animator boards since they've never worked right since I've had the machine. Once I know that's the issue, I'll be putting the inner backglass back in place. Mine has the paint all there and I want to keep it that way. What I do see on it though is that there are a few spots where the red has begun to lift off the glass in a circle. It's all there and I'm sure if I ran my fingernail along it I could get it to flake maybe? Anyways, what should I do to keep that red paint held in place? Spraying on clearcoat seems like it would be useless in this case. Could I get a sheet of mylar or something and stick it over the entire back side of the backglass? Or would this shrink and expand and destroy it in the long term?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That came out looking really nice, great job.

1 week later
#179 44 days ago

I agree that looks solid. Nicely done.

#180 42 days ago

So I came across some wierd issues recently if anyone has seen these before or has ideas to troubleshoot I would greatly appreciate.

1. Credit/Ball display issue. Randomly started and randomly goes away. Looks like an extra "lines" are stuck so numbers look wrong (14 is actually just 4).

2. Something is triggering with vibration?. I was trying to figure out why my left flipper is sticking and pressing it a bunch and it was triggering something and adding points (cheat code ) See video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6sf21JZC3Z5npcoU7

3. Sticking flippers: Random and not sure cause. Assume they just need rebuilt but curious other things to check.

Thanks again for any help.

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#181 40 days ago

Hey ya'll, I hit a wall. So I finally got power rebuilt, sound up and going, lights, scoreboard, etc...

Problem.

Switch matrix test, 63 and 73 are indicating closed connections. I've checked the blade switches and none of them are making contact. Any idea what could be causing this?

Added 41 days ago:

Solved myself

#182 37 days ago

djentor I'd guess for your credit display issue the best bet is there's a toast IC on the display board. The BCD chips are probably fine but something is telling them to count higher. Get a logic probe and the wiring diagram for that one. Find the inputs for the BCD chip and check the outputs in reference to the datasheet for the numbers you're getting. Then check that the inputs are the same. If they don't match, the BCD chips are shot. If they match, go upstream and keep going until you find the problem. I just replaced the transistors and caps on my stargate tube animator board and it was still not working. Did the equivalent with mine and in the end confirmed the board is fine.

Which sort of goes on to my next question for everyone here. Has anyone ever had an issue where all the LED's on their stargate tube were fried? Once I rebuilt my animator board and it still didn't work, I moved on to checking the LED strip itself. Gave an LED 3v as per the datasheets for those old LED's and nothing. Tried the rest of them too, same thing, they are all toast as best I can tell. I should add that the resistor (47 ohm I think it was, can't remember don't have the schematic in front of me) was really crispy. It was burnt looking before I bought the machine for that matter. Digi-Key still sells those LED's so I'm figuring on replacing them all but at the same time.... Has anyone else had this happen on their machine where something fried all the LED's and crispified the 1/2W resistor. (Also take note, the Gottlieb schematic lists that resistor as 1/2 watt on one spot and 1/4 watt on another spot on the SAME PAGE!)

djentor I had a really sticky flipper too before I rebuilt all of the flippers. It was bad enough that the sticky one didn't reach the end of stroke switch so combine that with the other flipper on the same button that did hit the EOS as well as a pop bumper triggering on the same circuit and I was blowing fuses all the time. Fixed now, flippers working great!

I'm attaching a couple pics of the last thing I modeled for the Mars. I don't have access to any of those Black Hole glass mounts so designed my own. I think I'm going to get the dremel out so I can chisel a bit more out of the back back so I can get the bottom mount a little lower without needed to print it thinner. Other than that, I had to do some sanding on the hinge side to get a chamfer for the hinge movement. Already revised the 3D model but decided not to waste any resin and just sanded the ones I'm using on my machine.

Oh and be careful ordering those polycarbonate tubes off Amazon. My original is all scratched up so I ordered one. for the 1 1/2" ones, it bumps the wall thickness up to 1/8" instead of 1/16" which I failed to notice. Should still work just fine but I may need to get the dremel out and do some grooves where the tube attaches to the metal ramp.

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#183 35 days ago

Okay I'm seriously stopped. I've got everything working except the stargate launch lane kickout. It looks like a hack job under there and I think someone screwed up the wire job. Any chance someone could get me a solid pic of the underside of the table from right there?

Here's what mine looks like.

It looks like someone probably cut the wires to short st some point and then added spare wire to give them length. One is red, grey, grey. This runs up to fuse F16. The other is yellow, grey, grey. This runs to silver transistor just above the coil in that pic. From schematic it looks like the wires that should be running to it are brown, grey, grey and red, yellow, yellow but I don't know where those are? There aren't any loose wires hanging about.

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#184 35 days ago

So my machine is missing the entire fulcrum and coil assembly for that area. Been waiting a month now for the Marco parts to arrive so I can finish it up and get multiball going again. Snagged these pics off a local owner on a FB group so I knew what to work with, maybe they'll help you out too.

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#185 35 days ago

Well certainly that bottom picture matches the yellow, gray, gray and red, gray, gray that it looks like they ran to mine. It isn't working though for sure. Everything checks out, coil, diode, etc... I wonder if maybe that transistor that the yellow, gray, gray is running to is shot. Good grief... Thank you for the pics.

If anyone else could get an even more clear picture that would be great. Especially if you could verify the wires going to that transistor above it.

#186 35 days ago

Sorry I am a little late to the party. I have a Mars God of War parts machine, if anyone is looking for parts.

I had two (2) machines that I merged into a great operational pinball, however, just recently sold it. Hence I have a parts machine / playfield setting here. Let me know if anyone needs anything.

#187 35 days ago
Quoted from Snowtrooper:

Sorry I am a little late to the party. I have a Mars God of War parts machine, if anyone is looking for parts.
I had two (2) machines that I merged into a great operational pinball, however, just recently sold it. Hence I have a parts machine / playfield setting here. Let me know if anyone needs anything.

Don’t need parts I think but if you would be willing to take a couple good quality photos if that spot I’m having issues with. lol

#188 33 days ago

Hey guys,

At power up, a ball kicks out to the shooter lane right away. This is before the game is booted and the score displays turn on. Any suggestions?

I can put the ball back in the out hole, start and play away just fine.

Everything else is still working as it should.

I haven't done the ground mods yet.... which I need to do anyway, and may be the source of the issue to begin with, but if anyone has any other input on that small issue, please let me know.

Thanks!

#189 33 days ago

Adding a pull-up to the transistor might fix that

#190 33 days ago
Quoted from Snowtrooper:

Sorry I am a little late to the party. I have a Mars God of War parts machine, if anyone is looking for parts.
I had two (2) machines that I merged into a great operational pinball, however, just recently sold it. Hence I have a parts machine / playfield setting here. Let me know if anyone needs anything.

Pics of what you got would be great.
Do you have a good playfield harness? How much would you want?
-Mike

#191 33 days ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

Pics of what you got would be great.
Do you have a good playfield harness? How much would you want?
-Mike

If he doesn't, I've got a harness on my parts playfield that's pretty good, only cut within half inch of where it's soldered tk stuff on the playfield

#192 33 days ago
Quoted from badjoe82:

Okay I'm seriously stopped. I've got everything working except the stargate launch lane kickout. It looks like a hack job under there and I think someone screwed up the wire job. Any chance someone could get me a solid pic of the underside of the table from right there?
Here's what mine looks like.
It looks like someone probably cut the wires to short st some point and then added spare wire to give them length. One is red, grey, grey. This runs up to fuse F16. The other is yellow, grey, grey. This runs to silver transistor just above the coil in that pic. From schematic it looks like the wires that should be running to it are brown, grey, grey and red, yellow, yellow but I don't know where those are? There aren't any loose wires hanging about.
[quoted image]

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#193 33 days ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

Hey guys,
At power up, a ball kicks out to the shooter lane right away. This is before the game is booted and the score displays turn on. Any suggestions?
I can put the ball back in the out hole, start and play away just fine.
Everything else is still working as it should.
I haven't done the ground mods yet.... which I need to do anyway, and may be the source of the issue to begin with, but if anyone has any other input on that small issue, please let me know.
Thanks!

The ball kicking out on power up is the Gottlieb thunk. If you have enough spare driver boards you may be able to find one that doesn't do that I fixed my MARS that way. Unfortunately it is normal. I have a game that came with a driver board that was modified by someone else to "fix" the problem that still will eject a ball on power up so I wouldn't put too much faith in the supposed fix for it.

If installing the ground mods fixes problems than you have simply bypassed the issue and still have bad connections that need to be addressed. After I get the game working I will do some ground mods. Not to mention its another thing to have to undo when trying to repair you game with the spaghetti mods on all the boards.

#194 33 days ago

Thank you guys for those reference pics. It does look like mine is hooked up correctly then. I’ve gone ahead and ordered a new coil and transistor there. Hopefully that will fix it. Otherwise I guess I’ll have to start trying to trace the wire back up into the box.

#195 31 days ago

So I'm working in a similar spot to the other posts here but for other reasons. My kicker for the multiball has been completely gone ever since I have owned the machine. The last of the parts I needed to fix it arrived from Marco today so I got it all put together but have hit one hitch that I need some help from someone who hasn't had their machine butchered up over here.

The first and primary issue is the kicker and the switch for it. I hooked everything up and looks promising seeing a full assembly there now when it was just two dangling wires with Marettes on them before. The switch wire guide that the ball runs over though... It wedges up against the fulcrums mounting plate. Where is this guide supposed to run? Through the hole maybe? I tried that though and it jams up if I try that. Do I need to bend it so the tip goes further past the fulcrum mounting plate? Please help, I needs me some multiball!

Capturec (resized).JPG

Second and less important question from what I can tell. Just above the right warbase kickout hole there are two holes. Again, someone hacked up my machine here, likely at the same time they pulled out the whole multiball kicker coil assembly. Is it just a wireform in here normally? I don't see any real adverse effect if I leave this spot empty but figure I may as well get it closer to factory.

Captured (resized).JPG

badjoe82 I'm no pro with coils but maybe the part number you're using is part of the problem too? I see the picture I attached for this coil that I got off a different person's machine uses 03-0184. Yours had an A-5195. The coil PBR sent me after I talked with them on the phone to figure out the missing assembly and as best I can tell is the one the manual calls for is the A-19300.

#196 31 days ago

IMG_4462 (resized).JPG
IMG_4465 (resized).JPG
These are the best pictures I have at the moment. You just have to tweak the right amount it so the ball rolls on it and closes the switch.

#197 31 days ago

Thanks for that pic, that totally fixed my problem. However it looks like I'm in close to the same boat as badjoe82 with probably bad 2N5875's under the playfield. Some previous owners 'fix' was to rip out the entire coil assembly and just turned that whole right side into a through lane at the expense of no longer having functional multiball.

I'm running a Pascal board and the first attempt it tripped a SW63 message and the second was PNP12. Switch 63 is that kicker switch and I'm going to assume PNP12 is referencing the associated under playfield transistor.

I did come across this link when some Black Hole owners ran into similar issues on their games:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Remote_Mounted_Transistors

So from what I can tell with my amateur electronics experience this is what we have with our 2N5875's under the playfield:

pasted_image (resized).png

And this is the recommended update with a pull up resistor:

pasted_image (resized).png

So... Is the best fix for our machines to use the MJ2955's in conjunction with the 4.7kohm pullup resistors like in my chicken scratch on a copy of the diagram below? Or do we skip the pullup resistors if we switch to the MJ2955 or one of the 2N5875's 'beefier siblings'?
pasted_image (resized).png

#198 31 days ago

firebird71 Yeah o have the correct trans and coil on the way for Marco myself right now.

My switch wire for that coil is bent at an angle to drop down into the hole and that’s how I got it. I assume that’s factory positioning.

As for your question about the 2 holes above the right warbase hole my machine is the same as 20eyes top picture and has a metal plate there to block the ball from jumping back by the warbase. If that’s the night spot your asking about.

#199 31 days ago

There's no reason not to have the pullups

#200 30 days ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

At power up, a ball kicks out to the shooter lane right away. This is before the game is booted and the score displays turn on. Any suggestions?

I had the issue on mine. rebuilt the power supply. resolved.

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