Mars, God of War Club &#039;n&#039; Tech Emporium

Both tube mounts are what I call "P clips", though there's a more accurate term--a friend of mine always corrects me...but I don't listen to him...

Just type "P clip" into Google & you'll see all sorts of them. Many are white plastic, or black plastic, or black rubber over metal. They're often used for cable management. I had one broken on my Star Wars: Episode I neon tube. I couldn't find a clear replacement for that machine, so I just got white. Close enough. (or maybe the price of the clear wasn't worth it--I forget)

See pics. My right one's a little tweaked from the screw head twisting it when it was torqued down. Ideally, these should have a washer under the screw head to prevent this. Mine are a bit grungy but work fine. I did note that my tube had scooched a little to the right & scooched it back--my clips don't hold the tube tightly from axial scoochage--a bit of rubber or tape under a clip would help, if needed.

As for the tube, sorry, but I don't know. If you do find a good replacement, please post here. Mine could use a new one.

-Jason

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#52 8 years ago

MJH

20eyes

Thanks! Ok, cable clamps. I thought there would be some sort of complex bracket for it I guess.

#53 8 years ago

???

Orangez28

Inactive member

Winnipeg, MB

8y 10,000 2 1

I did the same thing, removed the inner glass to keep it safe. Problem was I put it in an unheated room in my house. I just looked at the glass after about a year, and the image had split and rolled away from the surface of the glass. Does anyone sell a stencil of some sort
to replace the image?

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#54 8 years ago

SPC

blownfuse

In Memoriam

That sucks, I don't know of a replacement yet.

Steve

#55 8 years ago

SPC

blownfuse

In Memoriam

I'm curious, on MGoW, does anyone else have this alignment problem with the "high game to date", "shoot again" and "game over" lights? The light tubes don't line up well with the backglass screens. I have a black cabinet game so it may have been a problem that was corrected with the red cabinet games.

Steve

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#56 8 years ago

SPC

blownfuse

In Memoriam

It drove me nuts every time I looked at it so I corrected the issue.

Steve

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#57 8 years ago

SPC

blownfuse

In Memoriam

I think it looks much better now.

Steve

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#58 8 years ago

MJH

20eyes

I hope my ocd does not kick in when I get my backbox put back together. I am certainly going to look for this now. Thanks lol.

#59 8 years ago

MJH

20eyes

I found some clear tube on amazon 1-3/8 ID 1-1/2 OD clear polycarbonate in 2' lengths. Looks like the same thing so I will buy some one of these days and give it a try.
http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Polycarbonate-Tubing-Wall-Length/dp/B003TJ9YI8/ref=sr_1_1

#60 8 years ago

SPC

blownfuse

In Memoriam

Yeah, my OCD is real bad when it comes to restoring my games (perhaps I should post pics of the NOS playfield I had to correct too). That acrylic tube material is hard to locate in the correct size. I found some a few years ago when I was making new upkicker tubes for Black Hole and could only get it in 6' lengths. Unfortunately, I used them all up, though I did sacrifice one for my MGoW during the restoration.

Steve

#61 8 years ago

SPC

blownfuse

In Memoriam

I'll go ahead and post a few pics of the NOS playfield issues. The one thing I've learned from buying NOS is that it doesn't guarantee that the part is perfect. If it's NOS, there may be a reason that it was rejected when new and still available after this long. Such was the case with the NOS MGoW playfield I bought a few years ago. There were registration issues with the screening process but the worse thing was the plunger lane groove, it was cut too far to the outside of the playfield so the plunger couldn't line up with it at it's maximum adjustment. I has to move the groove roughly 3/8" back to the left to allow the ball to center to the plunger. The registration issues were easy, paint them out with black so they weren't noticeable before clearing the touch ups.

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#62 8 years ago

MJH

20eyes

My inserts are off very slightly but not quite that much.
Speaking of playfields I just sent my rails out to reese rails to have new ones made since I found that one was broken. I'm thinking of going with gloss black instead of woodgrain. Will post some pictures when I get them.

3 weeks later

#63 8 years ago

MJH

20eyes

I picked up a populated playfield yesterday. I got it mostly to get the unbroken plastics set off of it and some other bits and pieces but the playfield does not have a mylar and is in nice condition so now I don't know what one to use. Downside is this one has things missing and rusty metal parts so in order to use it I would have to do alot of swapping.

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#64 8 years ago

INK

Inkochnito

Pinside member

Piershil

12y 91,650 3,169 12

Clear all the top parts off, clean the playfield very thoroughly and repair when needed, then clearcoat it.
That's what I would do....

#65 8 years ago

MJH

20eyes

Not sure what I want to do with it just yet. I think i'm going to hide it in the closet for now so I stop thinking about it.

3 weeks later

#66 8 years ago

MJH

20eyes

I finally got the inner backglass re mounted. I'm not 100% happy with it but it should suffice.
I used backglass lift trim. Cut down and straightened it to 90 degrees with a heat gun.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9420
I'm going to add a piece on either side to prevent the glass from side to side movement.
As it sits its a bit of a tight fit on the lower edge of the backbox so I need to trim the wood down a bit along the lower edge to give it more room.
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2 months later

#67 7 years ago

JDB

jasonbar

Pinside member

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mars-god-of-war-inner-backglass

Quoted from 20eyes:
I found some clear tube on amazon 1-3/8 ID 1-1/2 OD clear polycarbonate in 2' lengths. Looks like the same thing so I will buy some one of these days and give it a try.
amazon.com link »

Done. Ordered the other day. $8.89 w/ free shipping. Came intact, well packaged. Very clean. Measured to be within a few thou of the stock tube. Very very clean relative to the stock tube, too.

Needed to be cut to length. 1 end had a sticker but a really clean & smooth cut, while the other end had some burrs & fuzzies from being cut to length.

So, I figured I'd pop the sticker, have 1 good end, then just cut & clean up the other end. Nope, the sticker turned out to be rather tenacious, so I chose to deburr the the rough-cut end & it cleaned up so quickly that I chose to keep this end & cut off the sticker end. Lined it up in bench vise, used the vise itself as a guide, hacksawed most of the way through & it was getting a bit too difficult near the end, pulled it out, held it down by hand to finish sawing.

Filed & deburred, especially the inevitable little mismatch step you get when hacksawing a tube, when the cuts meet up at the end. I used a fine file on the outside & an oval-section jeweler's file on the inside, because I found that at rotary deburring knife was skipping & chattering rather than grabbing & making nice curls.

Old tube comes out in 10 seconds: just loosen both P-clamps (just a little!), slide tube right to disengage it from left clamp, angle tube up, slide tube out from left lamp.

New tube installs in 11 seconds: slide tube into right P-clamp, overshoot, slide tube into left clamp, make sure it's registered properly against the ramp on the left side, rotate tube to hid any blemishes, tighten both P-clamps.

Enjoy! Mine wasn't super bad, but the fix was easy & cheap, so if your tube is cloudy, anybody with a hacksaw, some files, & a screwdriver can do this in about 15 minutes. No excuses! :]

Thanks for the tip, 20eyes!
-Jason

All pics show new tube installed.

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#68 7 years ago

AJP

Jabbles180

Pinside member

Lodi, CA

10y 54,450 629 28

This thread makes me want to hop into my project that MGoW.

Looking good guys.

2 weeks later

#69 7 years ago

MDS

Pinside member

10y 73,900 932 4 22

Hey! I joined the MGOW club!!!

Does anyone have a scan of the inner backglass?

I'd like to make a translite to replace mine - it's pretty ratty!

#70 7 years ago

SAC

hootowls

Inactive member

Lompoc, CA

10y 27,650 229 3

Quoted from Pinterest:
Hey! I joined the MGOW club!!!
Does anyone have a scan of the inner backglass?
I'd like to make a translite to replace mine - it's pretty ratty!

Common problem for sure! Check this thread. There are other threads scattered about where it also pops up.

1 week later

#71 7 years ago

JDB

jasonbar

Pinside member

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/35482

[NEVERMIND--SOLD!!!]

MPU & Chase Light PCBs, mostly working, need a bit of TLC. Got taken in a transaction, bought new replacements, writing these off as a loss. Willing to sell them for a song to a contributing member of the Mars, God of War Club 'n' Tech Emporium.

(Or for 2 songs to a non-member.)

Thanks,
-Jason

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#72 7 years ago

MJH

20eyes

OP
Quoted from jasonbar:
Done. Ordered the other day. $8.89 w/ free shipping. Came intact, well packaged. Very clean. Measured to be within a few thou of the stock tube. Very very clean relative to the stock tube, too.
Needed to be cut to length. 1 end had a sticker but a really clean & smooth cut, while the other end had some burrs & fuzzies from being cut to length.
So, I figured I'd pop the sticker, have 1 good end, then just cut & clean up the other end. Nope, the sticker turned out to be rather tenacious, so I chose to deburr the the rough-cut end & it cleaned up so quickly that I chose to keep this end & cut off the sticker end. Lined it up in bench vise, used the vise itself as a guide, hacksawed most of the way through & it was getting a bit too difficult near the end, pulled it out, held it down by hand to finish sawing.
Filed & deburred, especially the inevitable little mismatch step you get when hacksawing a tube, when the cuts meet up at the end. I used a fine file on the outside & an oval-section jeweler's file on the inside, because I found that at rotary deburring knife was skipping & chattering rather than grabbing & making nice curls.
Old tube comes out in 10 seconds: just loosen both P-clamps (just a little!), slide tube right to disengage it from left clamp, angle tube up, slide tube out from left lamp.
New tube installs in 11 seconds: slide tube into right P-clamp, overshoot, slide tube into left clamp, make sure it's registered properly against the ramp on the left side, rotate tube to hid any blemishes, tighten both P-clamps.
Enjoy! Mine wasn't super bad, but the fix was easy & cheap, so if your tube is cloudy, anybody with a hacksaw, some files, & a screwdriver can do this in about 15 minutes. No excuses! :]
Thanks for the tip, 20eyes!
-Jason
All pics show new tube installed.

I must confess... I ordered the tube when I posed originally but I cut it a half inch short, DOH... So i just recently ordered a new tube to replace the old new tube. Glad it worked out for you.
I also have a spare tube light bar if anyone is missing theirs.
Does anyone have a picture of the top side of the switch under the "LAUNCH" plastic in the upper right? Mine has been bent a bit and the ball hangs on it from time to time

#73 7 years ago

JDB

jasonbar

Pinside member

Quoted from 20eyes:
Does anyone have a picture of the top side of the switch under the "LAUNCH" plastic in the upper right? Mine has been bent a bit and the ball hangs on it from time to time

Pretty straightforward, figuratively & literally.

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#74 7 years ago

MJH

20eyes

Thanks! Exactly what I needed. Mine is bent way off to one side I thought it looked odd but I was not sure if it was done purposely because of the kicker.

1 month later

#75 7 years ago

JAZ

J-A-Z

Pinside member

8y 28,050 92

Just picked up a MGOW an it needs some help. Off the bat, the service/test button doesnt seem to work, and dip switches on the MPU board seem to trigger solenoid fires and non registering playfield switches. For instance changing the dipswitch from 5 to 3 balls results in a solenoid (the right warbase kicker) to fire continuously. Any ideas? As stated just picked up this machine and havnt spent too much time with it. Hoping to salvage it. It does has an original mirror glass, so thats a plus.

1 month later

#76 7 years ago

CMS

Xenon75

Pinside member

Hello fellow MGOW fans!

Just joined the club and could use a favor please. I am missing the lower chase lamp board that mounts to the playfield. I think I have found one of those, however I am also missing the wire harness that connects the LED strip near the tube to the board under neath. Could I trouble someone to please take a picture of this harness from the top where it connects to the LED strip and at the chaser board under neath so that I can create my own harness? Thanks!!

#77 7 years ago

SPC

blownfuse

In Memoriam

I may have most of what you need on a spare playfield I have. The problem is that I'm in the hospital undergoing Chemo treatment at the moment and I'm too weak right now to help you. If I can get one of my friends to come over and pull the parts, you can have them. I'll need your address for shipping if you don't mind waiting a little for me to arrange something.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

#78 7 years ago

CMS

Xenon75

Pinside member

Wow Steve - that is very generous of you... I wish you a speedy recovery!!! I will PM the address.. Thank you so much!

#79 7 years ago

SPC

blownfuse

In Memoriam

Do you have the chase lamp board? That's the only place part I might not have. I'm sure I have the LEDstrip and harness.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

#80 7 years ago

JDB

jasonbar

Pinside member

Quoted from Xenon75:
Wow Steve - that is very generous of you... I wish you a speedy recovery!!! I will PM the address.. Thank you so much!

I'm preeeetty sure that the chase light PCB under the PF for the ramp tube is the same PCB as in the backbox for the infinity lights.

Perhaps you can learn something by studying the board in the backbox?

Good luck.
-Jason

#81 7 years ago

CMS

Xenon75

Pinside member

Quoted from blownfuse:
Do you have the chase lamp board? That's the only place part I might not have. I'm sure I have the LEDstrip and harness.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

I have located a chase lamp board and LED strip. The thing I am missing completely is that harness... Thank you!

#82 7 years ago

SPC

blownfuse

In Memoriam

IIRC, the LED strip only uses 4 or 5 transistors on the chase lamp board to drive the LED's in pairs.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

#83 7 years ago

SPC

blownfuse

In Memoriam

Cool! It will still be easier to send the LED strip with the harness attached.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

Quoted from Xenon75:
I have located a chase lamp board and LED strip. The thing I am missing completely is that harness... Thank you!

#84 7 years ago

MJH

20eyes

I may have a lead for you on a wiring harness. PM sent!

#85 7 years ago

CMS

Xenon75

Pinside member

The 2nd lead for the harness was a dead end, so when time/health permits Steve I would really appreciate the gesture!

#86 7 years ago

SPC

blownfuse

In Memoriam

It may take a little time but I'll get some help to get it out to you. I get released from the hospital later today so I'll try to get it out quickly.

Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure

2 months later

#87 7 years ago

B B

bbriese

Inactive member

9y 55,550 236

Sorry folks, had to leave the club but for good reason.... I couldn't pass up a good offer to trade my lineup slot with a getaway, and reckon most of you would do same! I do have an outer backglass in good (not perfect) condition, willing to sell or work out a trade. I'm outta the club but will always be a sys80 fan.

1 week later

#88 7 years ago

BIL

tmontana

Pinside member

Livonia, MI

11y 69,300 702 10 10

Can someone take a picture of the left war base area? Mine has a nail in that area and I'm thinking that it should have something else there.

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#89 7 years ago

JDB

jasonbar

Pinside member

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mars-god-of-war-inner-backglass

Yup, you got nailed. Guess somebody was trying to minimize drive-bys or poor-aim kickouts?

Wow, I'm almost too embarrassed to show how sorry my machine looks up here in this corner, but it's for a good cause. At least this corner doesn't really show when playing.

-Jason

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2 weeks later

#90 7 years ago

NAS

vipe155

Pinside member

Plant City, FL

10y 21,150 89 2

Hi everyone,

I've got a Mars God of War I'm going to be working on soon. Also missing the inner backglass of course. Does anyone have the hi res scans of the glass I've read about on here so I can get a new translite version made? I'm sure I'll have some other questions about getting this Mars up to speed as well.

#91 7 years ago

SAC

hootowls

Inactive member

Lompoc, CA

10y 27,650 229 3

Quoted from vipe155:
Hi everyone,
I've got a Mars God of War I'm going to be working on soon. Also missing the inner backglass of course. Does anyone have the hi res scans of the glass I've read about on here so I can get a new translite version made? I'm sure I'll have some other questions about getting this Mars up to speed as well.

This thread is the most recent conversation on the topic I can recall. Fred Swemmer did a small run a while back and had them on eBay but it sounds like he might be done with that.

3 months later

#92 6 years ago

JOE

zimjoe

Pinside+ Frequent

Richmond, VA

10y 68,650 782 9

Quoted from Pinterest:
Does anyone have a scan of the inner backglass?

Quoted from vipe155:
Also missing the inner backglass of course. Does anyone have the hi res scans of the glass I've read about on here so I can get a new translite version made?

Ummm, me too. If this scan is available, can I get it? I want to see my machine look nicer.

Thanks

1 week later

#93 6 years ago

JDB

jasonbar

Pinside member

Display story:

1 - I played & the P1 score display was rather illegible.
2 - Power cycle made it a little better, but some segments weren't responsive, some were dim, & there was a funky ripple in some segments.
3 - Power off, unplug P1 display, do the "rejuvenate" trick by applying 12V across the opposite display legs for about 8 seconds. Horizontal filaments glowed during application. http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/#recharge http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2015/07/30/repairing-a-gottlieb-6-digit-display/
4 - Plug in P1 display, power on. No change.
5 - Repeat rejuvenation routine. No change.
6 - Power off. Swap P1 & P4 for now, b/c P4 display gets little use.
7 - Power on. Uh-oh, P4 is messed up. 1 filament is now glowing bright orange & curving across display! But display segments actually do look generally better(!)
8 - Power off. Unplug P4 display for now.

Display question:
Recommended product/vendor to use to buy a replacement?
a) $279 for a new set of 4? Hard to stomach for a game I bought for $800. http://www.bostonpinballcompany.com/displays.htm
b) $55 for an old display, rejuvenated better than I did. I've used Big Daddy before & am happy with him. ebay.com link: itm

c) Other sources?

Thanks,
-Jason

1 month later

#94 6 years ago

CMS

Xenon75

Pinside member

In case any one needs them, I hand cut stencils for this game. They are reusable and provide an original factory look. Asking $100 plus shipping to your location.

#95 6 years ago

AJC

canoncitypb

Inactive member

Cañon City, CO

8y 46,300 538 3 25

Can anyone send me a diagram from the manual of the ramp? I don't want to purchase a manual, but i want to install the ramp on another game.

thanks,
aaron

#96 6 years ago

MVP

Grizlyrig

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 111K 3,369 1

Quoted from canoncitypb:
Can anyone send me a diagram from the manual of the ramp?

What exactly are you looking to see? The manual does not show a specific pic of ramp or show a breakdown of parts like newer manuals just a top view of playfield.
-Mike

#97 6 years ago

MJH

20eyes