(Topic ID: 114789)

Mars, God of War Club 'n' Tech Emporium


By jasonbar

6 years ago



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  • 224 posts
  • 42 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 35 days ago by vipe155
  • Topic is favorited by 17 Pinsiders

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There are 224 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 5.
#1 6 years ago

I used to play pinball with my late father. I remember clearly that we both enjoyed playing this game when it was new: Roman mythology, space ships, voice, ramp, 4 flippers. Keen! It has been on my wishlist ever since I got into pinball machines several years ago.

I picked one up recently, & I have a handful of tech questions & issues. I'll start with just 1 for now:

This machine previously had a mechanical bracketry mod to attach the inner glass to the swing-out backbox frame:

MGOW Inner BG Mt Scheme.JPG

For the life of me, I can't figure out how to remove the inner glass so that I can replace bulbs & clean it out.
- There are 2 prominent brackets at right, which accept the locks.
- There are 3 L-brackets (top right, top left, bottom right) that remove the lamp-holding wooden square frame and the inner backglass.
- There's a small aluminum channel at left that doesn't seem to have a hand in glass retention.

Anybody seen this glass retention scheme?

Thanks,
-Jason

#2 6 years ago

image.jpg

Mine was "rigged" with channels on each side. Kinda hokey but I'll take it over a busted inner glass any day !!

Maybe yours is resting in a groove or something. Has to be held in somehow. Can you carefully slide it straight up at all ??

#3 6 years ago

Hi Jason, try removing the lock brackets and sliding the glass out the side. It looks like a heavy duty copy of a black hole/Volcano backglass mounting system, if so, the channel to the left is probably just a stop to line up the glass to the displays. Someone didn't want that glass to ever fall out, can't blame them.

Steve

1 week later
#4 5 years ago

Figured it out yesterday morning. Required undoing some screws & tweaking the backbox frame to weasel the glass out.

Without getting into gory detail, the inner glass is resting in an aluminum L-channel & tucked in another L-channel up top, sandwiched on the left by another Al L-channel, & sandwiched on the right by the 2 lock receptacles.

1: I needed to undo the 2 large bracket screws at right, manhandle the inner glass + chaser light frame out a little until the glass would clear the lock receptacles.

2: Then scooch the glass to the right, which uncovered a screw at top left.

3: Then, I had to remove the left end stop.

4: Then I had to scooch the glass left to reveal a covered screw at top right.

Glass.JPG

Then the top L-channel was freed & the glass came out. If only that top channel were just a little wider & had its screws accessible without needing to manhandle the glass back & forth. Unfortunately, both the top & bottom L-channels were cut to the exact width of the glass...

So, it's a relatively easy fix to redo that top L-channel, or perhaps replace it with a couple of offset mirror clips like these: amazon.com link » , so the screw is accessible when the glass is installed. The top clips need to just keep the glass from tipping forward; the bottom L-channel supports the glass.

Time to throw in a bunch of red LEDs!!! This game has lots of fussy lamp sockets--I'll give each one a good cleaning while I'm in there, so that I don't have to dig into it again...

Top right inner frame bracket that needed undoing in step 1:

IMG_20150116_105012.jpg

Top left screw from top rail, exposed after scooching glass right in step 2:

IMG_20150116_105015.jpg
IMG_20150116_110109.jpg

Left bump stop rail that needed to be removed in step 3:

IMG_20150116_110101.jpg

Top right screw from top rail, exposed after scooching glass left in step 3:

IMG_20150116_110106.jpg

2 closeups of right end of bottom rail that supports glass:

IMG_20150116_105009.jpg

IMG_20150116_105020.jpg

Thanks,
-Jason

#5 5 years ago

LOL, well at least it wasn't too bad to get in there and it looked like a clean install. Also, it kept the inner glass safe for you so there were a couple of positives.

Steve

#6 5 years ago

Yes, certainly fair enough all in all. Just needs a little upgrading to be more user-friendly...though I hope that my required entries are few & far between!

-Jason

#7 5 years ago

I enjoy this title quite a bit. Hitting that stargate isn't as easy as it looks - I've lost quite a few 'hyperforce' chances trying to make that shot happen. Keeps me coming back for more though!

I generally like the look of LEDs but I didn't go 100% on this one. I kept the incandescent red dipped 47s for the back box chasers as well as for the playfield GI although I used yellow color sleeves for most of those. The LEDs look nice in the controlled lamps and behind the back glass.

The yellow sleeves on the GI coordinate with my orange flipper bands, black rubbers and black acorn nuts for the playfield plastics. Kinda 'Halloweeny' I guess but they seem to work well with the dominate colors on the playfield itself.

#8 5 years ago

Pics, please! :]

Quoted from hootowls:

I enjoy this title quite a bit. Hitting that Stargate isn't as easy as it looks - I've lost quite a few 'hyperforce' chances trying to make that shot happen. Keeps me coming back for more though!
I generally like the look of LEDs but I didn't go 100% on this one. I kept the incandescent red dipped 47s for the back box chasers as well as for the playfield GI although I used yellow color sleeves for most of those. The LEDs look nice in the controlled lamps and behind the back glass.
The yellow sleeves on the GI coordinate with my orange flipper bands, black rubbers and black acorn nuts for the playfield plastics. Kinda 'Halloweeny' I guess but they seem to work well with the dominate colors on the playfield itself.

#9 5 years ago

Here's the back box.

Warm, low intensity frosted bulbs of different colors with 455s for the explosions - I've since switched out the 455s for LED equivalents. Green behind the moons, red behind the helmet plume, the indicators and the core of the planet (surrounded by orange). The chasers are still the old 47s.

283763-396.jpg 324642-757.jpg
#10 5 years ago

Here's topside - best as I can show the orange flipper bands, black rubbers, black acorns and GI with yellow color sleeves over 47s and LEDs everywhere else.

IMG_0011.jpg
IMG_0010.jpg

#11 5 years ago

Thanks for the pics, hootowl. Nice machine. I especially dig your 1st pic, where you have some keen radial shadows around a particularly bright white light.

I couldn't get very good pics. With the flash off, the LEDs look like points of light, but they don't look that way in person. The pic with the flash looks better, but I can't tell if it's the flash or my LEDs that are illuminating the backglass art.

The last pic might be the most helpful.

I used Nifty LED diffused lamps pretty much everywhere:
- orange on Mars, the guy
- red on Mars, the planet
- white on the 3 shielded indicators
- white on the 3 Hoth Snow Speeders
- red on the chase lights around the frame
And
- cool white blinkers on the explosions (from Marco--Nifty was sold out)

I tried green behind the little planets, & they were just too green for me.

I do like your idea of red on the helmet plume. I might try that out.

On the playfield, I went all Nifty diffused again:
- cool white diffused for all GI
- color-matched for all inserts (w/ blue flex lights pointing down in the Launch candy cane cavity to match the blue insert at its entrance...so that they don't point up & illuminate the black & white plastic with blue light--they just shine blue down the hallway...this part's a bit too blue for me...maybe I'll try something else...)

Thanks,
-Jason

IMG_20150124_225710.jpg IMG_20150124_225724.jpg IMG_20150124_225749.jpg
#12 5 years ago

I just picked one up yesterday at auction.
Working, mint inner glass, cabinet-average, playfield-decent.
It's still in my truck. Once I unload it and set it up, I'll snap a few pictures.
Plan on putting it next to my HH and BH.
Reading through all these posts, I'm super excited to set it up and go through it.
I know for sure that I need some drop targets, the ones in it are a mix of various generic ones.

#13 5 years ago

As a public service announcement on getting new red MGoW drop targets, keep in mind that The Pinball Resource ran out of red drop targets over a year ago and had new ones made. This would have been great but the new targets aren't the same color as the originals, not even close. If you want to match what's in your game, you'll need to look for NOS or nice used originals. If not, you'll have to order all new for your game. The new ones from TPR have a purple cast to them and Steve said he has no plans to correct them (just like the white plastics when he ran out of NOS). IMHO, the purple drop targets look out of place in a MGoW since there's nothing else on the game that color. If you're a purist about your games when it comes to replacement parts like I am, you won't be happy with the new ones.

Steve

Quoted from z28dan:

I know for sure that I need some drop targets, the ones in it are a mix of various generic ones.

Post edited by blownfuse: Looks like this was corrected

#14 5 years ago

Hmmm...I just ordered a full set of 8 from PBR. My machine has plain red ones, which a pretty noticeable horizontal wear line from ball hits. So, I'll be swapping out all 8. I'll see how they look...

As an aside, I made a hi-res B&W scan of a MGOW pop bumper cap, which has the same art as the drops. If I don't like the PBR drops, I might look into getting stickers made.

Thanks,
-Jason

#15 5 years ago

Original drop target in the middle.

IMG_0001.jpg

#16 5 years ago

That's not the color drop target I saw that was sent to a buddy of mine, I would have bought those. Perhaps Steve saw the light and corrected the issue after all, he told me he wasn't going to when I told him I wanted new but wasn't going to buy them if they were purple. I'm trying to get a pic of the ones he sent or have my buddy post here, the match was terrible. If the problem was corrected, I'll change my post.

Steve

#17 5 years ago

Checked all fuses for proper sizes, tested all coil resistances, all good except the knocker, cut that wire temp. cleaned all connectors on the board. Tested voltages on power supply, all good.
Fired her up. credits added but the start switch wouldn't register and without the start switch I couldn't get into switch test.
Checked out the wiring, connectors and mpu. Previous alkaline damage to mpu has damaged some sections of the board. I have a corrosion repair kit from a previous black hole that I'll end up putting to use.
I went upstairs and grabbed the mpu out of black hole and swapped the rom and installed it.
She's up and playing after a few tweaks.
So far , I'm loving it. I rebuilt the flippers and they play much better.
It is quite dirty but not worn much.
I couldn't resist changing out the painted red bulbs to red LEDs. The inner glass is perfect and the leds shine off the mirror brightly.
Six of the drops are red but don't match the pop caps. two are generic yellow and one broke on my second game. lol.
4 player display is out but comes on when I wiggle the cap on its display PCb.
Snapped a few quick pics. I think she will clean up nice.
image-137.jpgimage-593.jpgimage-565.jpgimage-121.jpgimage-247.jpgimage-992.jpgimage-408.jpgimage-285.jpgimage-694.jpg

#18 5 years ago

z28dan, Welcome!

You can indeed get into all self-tests without the start button. Just push the little red test button inside the coin door until 18 appears. Wait a few seconds, then you're in switch test mode.

If you need more details, let me know. I've been fighting the switch matrix for a few weeks, so I'm somewhat intimate with it at the moment...unfortunately...Bah.

Thanks,
-Jason

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

I do like your idea of red on the helmet plume. I might try that out.

Tried. Liked. Kept.

#20 5 years ago

Does everybody else's PF squeal like a banshee when you slide it forward on the rails to be able to tip it upright? Oy!

-Jason

#21 5 years ago

Nice score, congratulations! It does indeed look like it'll buff out nicely. Be sure to get rid of those 1/2-in flipper bands if you haven't already.

My MPU came with battery damage too - the J6 connector must've been nailed as it was gone with the wires soldered to the board. Then they got really creative and spliced in an automotive connector to finish it off!

IMG_0009.jpg

#22 5 years ago

With the original board, it boots, goes into attract , start switch won't work.
I have new connectors and pins. I usually replace them on all gottliebs I do.
Game plays with my black hole board so the connectors are good enough for now.
I do most of my own board repairs, so when I get back from this snowstorm( power lineman heading to Mass.) I'll look into my corrosion and switch troubles.
What I really need to do is get and/or make a decal for the outer glass. Mine is flaking and it won't be around long.

#23 5 years ago

RE: Outer glass decal. I just realized that mine doesn't have a Gottlieb logo (pic in post #9). The decal doesn't appear to be hacked but that has to be what's going on.

#24 5 years ago

Usually, it's the inner glass that everyone needs. I have an extra NOS outer glass that I may part with, I need to look at it first and compare it to the one in my game since I'm not sure if I really need it or not.

Steve

Quoted from z28dan:

What I really need to do is get and/or make a decal for the outer glass. Mine is flaking and it won't be around long.

#25 5 years ago

hi all..don't have ours up and running yet but I could also use that same decal..i was lucky ..last owner of machine took out the outer back glass could not get back in machine..sat in closet for 18 years..looks perfect..photos soon!

#26 5 years ago

Got my 8 MGOW drops from PBR today.

They look red to me. Perhaps crimson or maroon...a little darker than my pops & the existing drops, but who knows how faded those are...? These will look great when installed.

Thanks
-Jason

IMG_20150126_220125.jpg IMG_20150126_220151.jpg IMG_20150126_220200.jpg
#27 5 years ago

Cool, I gladly stand corrected. Apparently, Steve corrected the issue that he said he wasn't going to (which is a good thing). He must have gotten a lot of other complaints about those purple DT's, they were terrible looking. I hope he also corrected the yellow pop bumper caps he had made that were orange tinted when lit up. I'll have to check on that now.

I told him when this started happening that someone needed to tighten up their quality control since there are a lot of people that will notice the differences, I was beginning to think he is color blind.

Steve

1 week later
#28 5 years ago

Diodes, diodes, where are the diodes?

I'm chasing down a problem in the switch matrix. It centers on switch 43, the left bottom pop bumper.

In switch test mode, all switches on row 4 induce glitching or freezing or resetting or wrong values when pressed. All switches on column 3 are unresponsive.

All other switches react OK (except start & tilt, which also induce glitching etc.).

Switch 43 isn't closed.

I know which chips on the MPU control the switch matrix, to check/replace them.

The other item that I want to check is the diode for this switch. Most other games have diodes right there soldered to the leaf switch. On this game, the diodes seem to be spread out around the playfield, on little strips. I haven't been able to find which one goes with this switch, & I didn't see a diode map in my manual.

Any tips?

Thanks,
-Jason

#29 5 years ago

It looks to be the leftmost diode on the diode strip above the stargate tube LED driver board.

#30 5 years ago

Installed 8 new PBR drops today. Quite easy & quick. I used this guide: http://www.papinball.com/tips/gottlieb_drop_target_guide2.html

This guide was a bit overly thorough. It was simpler, quicker, & easier than I thought it would be, based on the guide alone.

Hellooooo, good-lookings!

-Jason

IMG_20150203_201124.jpg IMG_20150203_201111.jpg
#31 5 years ago
Quoted from hootowls:

It looks to be the leftmost diode on the diode strip above the Stargate tube LED driver board.

Thanks for the tip. Where did you find this info? Hopefully not by just combing through the PF harness?

Alas, the far left diode on this strip is for the bottom left pop bumper's coil switch (the one farther from the PF, closed when the pop solenoid actuates). I'm seeking the diode for this pop's switch matrix switch (the switch closer to the PF, which is closed when the skirt pushes on the spoon).

I tried testing continuity from this switch's leads to all diode strip diode legs & don't see continuity...

Thanks,
-Jason

MGOW_Bottom_Left_Pop_Switch_Diode.JPG
#32 5 years ago

I'm working on repairing my mpu and getting ready to shop mine.

My inner glass is perfect, but the art on my outer glass is starting to peel.

Has anyone, or can anyone make a water slide decal for this?

image-577.jpg

image.jpg

#33 5 years ago

hi all-I also need this outside decal

#34 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Thanks for the tip. Where did you find this info? Hopefully not by just combing through the PF harness?
Alas, the far left diode on this strip is for the bottom left pop bumper's coil switch (the one farther from the PF, closed when the pop solenoid actuates). I'm seeking the diode for this pop's switch matrix switch (the switch closer to the PF, which is closed when the skirt pushes on the spoon).
I tried testing continuity from this switch's leads to all diode strip diode legs & don't see continuity...
Thanks,
-Jason

Hi Jason,

There are two kind of switches on the pop bumper.
The top one (actuated by the skirt) goes to the pop bumper board under the playfield.
The second one (actuated by the coil pulling down) goes into the switch matrix.

But I don't think switch 43 is your problem.
Did you check the switch matrix connector?
Take the connector off the board and look into the connector.
Look closely at pin 5 (yellow wire) and pin 13 (blue wire with orange striping).
Are they still making good contact?
Can you look through the connector?
If you can, chances are that the connector needs repinning.
Do you have a manual? If no, let me know (nice PDF).

#35 5 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

Thanks for the tip. Where did you find this info? Hopefully not by just combing through the PF harness?

I did check the manual expecting to see something with the pop bumper wiring on page 35. Then I just took a guess that the diode strip closest to the PB boards might be connected and saw a wire to the lower switch matched a diode wire. Be advised that I'm getting a continuity buzz from the top wire on the upper switch to the second wire bundle pair on that same diode strip.

Even though my game is currently working pretty well I'm using your issue to help understand how this works so I'll be better able to troubleshoot my (inevitable) future problems.

#36 5 years ago

Just sharing pictures of the goodies that came with my game. It's great when stuff like isn't thrown away and is passed along down the years!

goodies.jpg
key.jpg

#37 5 years ago

@jasonbar, I was looking at one of your pics and my curiosity got to me so I blew it up a little. It looks to me that your ground line (that I circled) is getting a little thin from rubbing, you may want to move it out of the way of that bracket and repair it. Perhaps the staple has stopped the wear for now but it could get worse. This happens a lot on System 80, I've had to repair and move ground lines away from that bracket path on many of my games.

Steve

356839.jpg

#38 5 years ago

Steve-

Not only do you have an eagle eye, but thank you so much for looking out for me.

I studied this spot closely tonight. The ground strap looked pretty good. I stuck a screwdriver under the staple, pried against the wood lightly, pulled it up a hair, & scooched the ground strap. It's not tight & scooching revealed that the portion under the staple is OK--just a little squeezed & deformed, but not damaged.

Thanks!
-Jason

Quoted from blownfuse:

@jasonbar, I was looking at one of your pics and my curiosity got to me so I blew it up a little. It looks to me that your ground line (that I circled) is getting a little thin from rubbing, you may want to move it out of the way of that bracket and repair it. Perhaps the staple has stopped the wear for now but it could get worse. This happens a lot on System 80, I've had to repair and move ground lines away from that bracket path on many of my games.
Steve

#39 5 years ago

Tackled my battery corrosion today and used my new Hakko de soldering gun to replace z11 chip.
How I ever did board repair without this gun I'll never know.
She now fires up and plays without issue.
Just need to tackle that one flaky display, order drop targets from Steve and tear this down and shop it.

1 week later
#40 5 years ago

Some work on the MGOW this week:

I put in a Swemmer MPU & backbox A11 chase light PCB (fixed my chase lights problem!), & also a Rottendog power supply board.

---

This makes my MGOW is now much better, but it's not quite all there yet.

In short, the game plays OK, but none of the 4 pop bumpers reacts when balls hit them, the bottom left pop bumper ring switch doesn't score points or make sounds when manually moved, & the ramp tube chase lights don't illuminate.

So, my 2 main questions are:

a) Where do the wires for switch 43 (bottom left pop) go? I'm guessing it must be a bad diode, since I put in a new MPU? Hootowls, I know you pointed one out in a previous post, but that doesn't seem to be correct. See below.

b) I seem to have no 5VDC for the 4 pop PCBs & the ramp tube chase light PCB next to them. Where does the 5V come from? The Rottendog power PCB puts out a nice 5V on all 3 of its connectors. Grounds for these 5 little PCBs all check out OK.

---

Details of what I've done & checked:

1 - On power-up, the LEDs on the 4 pop bumper PCBs don't light. Is this correct behavior? I'm guessing not, since I don't read +5VDC on 5 of each pop PCB's connector.

2 - During gameplay, when I manually pull down each pop bumper flange ring (which the solenoid is supposed to actuate), the game does react properly for 3 pops (sound effect & points added to score). The game does not register when the bottom left pop flange ring is moved down.

3 - In self-test 18, all switches seem to register OK except for 43, left bottom pop bumper.

4 - In self-tests 16 & 17, all other solenoids fire OK. There doesn't seem to be a self-test that triggers the 4 pop bumper solenoids.

5 - I checked continuity between all 4 pop bumper's "upper" leaf spring (the one that the skirt closes, not the one that the flange ring closes) & pin 4 of the A8J1 connector on each pop bumper A8 PCB. Good for all 4. So, all 4 pop skirt switches are still connected to the 4 pop bumper PCBs (so I don't think the 43 switch diode is bad).

6 - I also confirmed continuity between each A8 pop bumper pin 1 on A8J1 & each pop's coil. All good.

7 - Grounds all check out for the 4 pop PCBs, ramp tube chase light PCB, & the ground strap under the PF.

8 - I studied the bank of 5 diodes at bottom right of the PF (when open & propped up), next to the tube chase light A12 PCB. Using my multimeter in continuity mode, the left one seems to be open whether I put my COM probe on top & + probe on bottom, or vice versa. The 4 diodes at right show continuity when I put my COM probe on top & the + probe on bottom & show open when I reverse the probes, so it seems as if these 4 diodes are good. But I can't find continuity from these diodes' legs to anything pop-related on the PF or PCBs...

Thanks,
-Jason

#41 5 years ago

All the pop bumper boards are not CPU controlled. 5VDC and ground for the pop bumper boards come from the A1J6 connector, I'd look there for your dead pop bumper boards problem. Also, each of the spoon switches control pop bumper boards, not #43, it's for scoring. This may be where you're confused. If switch 43 is closing and gapped correctly, then there are only two possible causes for no score. The switch diode is open or you have a broken wire for that switch somewhere. Wire colors to the 1N270 switch diode you want to find are purple-blue-blue and yellow-yellow-yellow. If the break is on the other side of the #43 switch (without the diode), the wire colors are blue-orange-orange. I've also seen switch solder lugs broken off but looking like they are still connected to the switch.

Steve

2 weeks later
#42 5 years ago

Thanks for your help & replies. For those with short attention spans, my Mars God of War is now 100% fully functional. Woohoo!

For those who have a little time to kill reading, here's the scoop:

1 - At the risk of losing my pinball cred, I had people over last weekend, & the MGOW chase lights & pop bumpers were functioning. I'm embarrassed. Either, I was overlooking something, flaking, or some shorting something-or-other worked its way unshorted... In any case, those are all A-OK.

2 - The bottom left pop rarely activated from a gentle ball contact from above. WITH THE POWER OFF THIS TIME, & using a multimeter w/ alligator clips & continuity mode instead, I fussed with the leaf switch until it registered nicely.

3 - I took time to trace the white w/ purple & blue wires from this pop's scoring switch down to the aforementioned diode strip at bottom right of the PF underside (when propped up vertical). That diode was indeed no good. I don't know what flavor of diode it had, but I have oodles of 1N4004 diodes, so I just went ahead & figured out which way that goes in, soldered it in, turned up the volume, & then played for about 1.5 hours straight.

Thanks for your input & for your patience w/ my floundering. Much appreciated!

-Jason

1 week later
#43 5 years ago

Finally sat down & read the How to Play Mars, God of War flyer: https://pinside.com/pinball/archive/mars-god-of-war/gallery/promotional

The very next game, I finally squashed the 770k default high score:

a.JPG

Well, I did at least squeak by it, if not squash it...

Next game. Crushed it. Rolled over & was just shy of another half million:

b.JPG

This picture shows my modded display, letting me track my awesome millions points:

c.JPG

But...the game still thinks that the high score is that measly 784k:

a.JPG

Darn. Should have tilted at 999,990...

-Jason

#44 5 years ago

I was wondering why my bonus never got above 19k...I could never light that darn 20 insert...it mocked me...

Then, I read on the flyer that 19k is the max bonus that you can achieve with the 5-ball setting.

Which leads me to inquire: is 3 or 5 the default balls setting? 5 feels better, in my opinion, based on the age of the game...but I like to have my games set to factory, or at least close...

What setting are you guys all using?

Thanks,
-Jason

#45 5 years ago

I love your 7 digit mod! Much easier to do than the Blownfuse method

My game is set for 3 ball.

#46 5 years ago

LOL. It may have been easier but mine will always remember the newest high score without having to "adjust the score" again.

Steve

Quoted from woz:

I love your 7 digit mod! Much easier to do than the Blownfuse method
My game is set for 3 ball.

10 months later
#47 4 years ago

Just picked up a Mars God Of War yesterday! Does anyone have a picture of the tube mount on the right hand side? I don't think mine is correct.
Also where is the easiest place to find clear tubing to replace the tube I don't want to have to run to all the hardware stores in the area looking.

IMG_4395_(resized).JPG

#48 4 years ago

If you plan to keep your inner glass safe, you may want to convert it to the same style of holding system that Black Hole used. There's a guy that just posed on Pinside that he's parting out a Black Hole head.

Steve

#49 4 years ago

The first thing I did was take the glass out for safe keeping and then remove the mounting clips. I'll have to check out the black hole clips otherwise I have tons of other work to do on this machine before I need it back in.

#50 4 years ago

I wouldn't even consider using the original MGoW inner glass clips for holding that glass, they fail the test. FWIW, contact the guy parting out the BH head and get those clips instead for later, you'll be glad you did.

Steve

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Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 64.00
$ 9,500.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 15.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
$ 26.95
From: $ 20.00
Apparel - Women
Pinball Wheezer
$ 999.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
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