(Topic ID: 225122)

Many strange behaviors in Rollercoaster Tycoon

By WaddleJrJr

5 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by WaddleJrJr
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#1 5 years ago

I recently purchased a Rollercoaster Tycoon and there's many things all happening wrong.

Some switches are registering randomly (the center mechanic target and the handyman target), which causes modes to just start randomly, the game sometimes kicks out extra balls for no reason, the opto sensor behind the handyman target sometimes doesn't work, as well as some other things. Additionally if the Rocket switch is ever triggered it just starts a new game immediately.

The switch matrix shows a good 10 or so switches being pressed when they shouldn't, and the rocket is registering randomly in the switch test as well.

I presume it might be something on the CPU board? I swapped out the Power Supply board with an extra working one I had to see if it was a power issue, however that didn't fix it.

Any suggestions?
Thanks!

#2 5 years ago

I’m guessing the 10 switches or so don’t have any pattern- they are random, not in a similar row or column? Not all Optos or anything? And you already tried reseating switch connectors and ribbon cables at the boards?

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

I’m guessing the 10 switches or so don’t have any pattern- they are random, not in a similar row or column? Not all Optos or anything? And you already tried reseating switch connectors and ribbon cables at the boards?

I went to check on this for you but now the game won't boot up fully (lights come on but the DMD/start screen never comes up, never makes the startup ding), so I guess I must've messed something up when I put its regular power supply board back in

I recall them being kind of in a clump, not following any row/column pattern.

#4 5 years ago

Check for acid damage to your mpu, examine chips under battery closely..

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from WaddleJrJr:

I went to check on this for you but now the game won't boot up fully (lights come on but the DMD/start screen never comes up, never makes the startup ding), so I guess I must've messed something up when I put its regular power supply board back in
I recall them being kind of in a clump, not following any row/column pattern.

Sounds like there are several issues.

For the power check your connectors on the power board. Check fuses.

The ball kickout problem is probably a trough opto. The handyman opto goes out of alignment and might need adjusting or might have a loose connection.

When you have power get the switch matrix out and make note of which switches are triggering. Look for patterns and trace from there. Check the wires under the playfield for loose connections.

#6 5 years ago

Okay so I read about power issues and it seems that R114 is the place to test to see if it has 5V. Assuming I'm doing this correctly I can only get it to read about 3V, so that would indicate a problem there. What that means and how to fix it, however, I have no idea.

Also my friend who I purchased this game from did do a check over the boards before selling it to make sure there was no acid damage.

#7 5 years ago
Quoted from Brijam:

Sounds like there are several issues.
For the power check your connectors on the power board. Check fuses.
The ball kickout problem is probably a trough opto. The handyman opto goes out of alignment and might need adjusting or might have a loose connection.
When you have power get the switch matrix out and make note of which switches are triggering. Look for patterns and trace from there. Check the wires under the playfield for loose connections.

Oh also to add to my post above, I checked all the connectors first, looked over all the fuses and I don't see any that look close to blown, but I could take them all out and test individually if necessary.

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from WaddleJrJr:

Oh also to add to my post above, I checked all the connectors first, looked over all the fuses and I don't see any that look close to blown, but I could take them all out and test individually if necessary.

You don't have to remove fuses to test them, but definitely test them.

Keep tracing the power back up the line from that 3V until you find the correct power and you'll find your problem. This might help:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Sega/Stern_White_Star_Repair#Low_.2B5VDC_and_Game_Resets

#9 5 years ago
Quoted from Brijam:

You don't have to remove fuses to test them, but definitely test them.
Keep tracing the power back up the line from that 3V until you find the correct power and you'll find your problem. This might help:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Sega/Stern_White_Star_Repair#Low_.2B5VDC_and_Game_Resets

Ah, didn't know that for sure but I did test them all without removing them (just didn't know if that was correct or not), and inbetween my last post and this post I pulled and tested them all individually anyways since I had nothing better to do. All were fine both tests.

#10 5 years ago

Pinwiki says to check U19 next but I've searched everywhere and can not seem to find it on the board no matter where I look. Any tips?

EDIT: Found it, the part where it said to unplug the J16 connector above helped me locate it, it's on the heat sink so it's not labeled as U19 on the board.

EDIT Again: Okay but now the real question is to try and figure out how the heck I test voltage on a metal casing like the Pinwiki says to do.

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from WaddleJrJr:

Pinwiki says to check U19 next but I've searched everywhere and can not seem to find it on the board no matter where I look. Any tips?
EDIT: Found it, the part where it said to unplug the J16 connector above helped me locate it, it's on the heat sink so it's not labeled as U19 on the board.
EDIT Again: Okay but now the real question is to try and figure out how the heck I test voltage on a metal casing like the Pinwiki says to do.

If just putting the positive end of the meter on the plate and then putting the negative end on ground somewhere is the correct way to test this, then it's only reading 0.25 V, however I have no idea if I am testing this correctly or not.

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from WaddleJrJr:

Pinwiki says to check U19 next but I've searched everywhere and can not seem to find it on the board no matter where I look. Any tips?
EDIT: Found it, the part where it said to unplug the J16 connector above helped me locate it, it's on the heat sink so it's not labeled as U19 on the board.
EDIT Again: Okay but now the real question is to try and figure out how the heck I test voltage on a metal casing like the Pinwiki says to do.

This thing?
http://actionpinball.com/pics/lm323k.jpg

On that I think case itself is the output. One lead to the case, one to ground? Someone else should confirm this.

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from Brijam:

This thing?
http://actionpinball.com/pics/lm323k.jpg
On that I think case itself is the output. One lead to the case, one to ground? Someone else should confirm this.

Yup that's the thing! We posted at the exact same time, but the way I was testing is indeed like you said, so if that is correct then yeah I'm only getting 0.25 V there and will start to unplug things like the article suggests to do next.

#14 5 years ago

When I got the 0.25V reading I was touching the ground end to one of the nuts at the bottom of the head, perhaps that is not correct because when I touch the ground end to the metal piece behind the boards that gives me the correct 5V reading, with or without J16 plugged in. Still am getting 3V at the R114 though.

#16 5 years ago

If your 5V (LM323 style) regulator on the power/driver board were that far out (measuring 3V) or faulty, you would have no +5VDC for the entire game and your CPU wouldn't run at all.

Measure with your meter on DCV, across +5V and GND on connector J16, which is the +5VDC and +12VDC output. No need to disconnect it, just probe thru the connector. Also, L2 (+5VDC) and L203 (+12VDC) should both be well lit.

What is common about all the switches that are not registering?
- Are they all optos? Optos require 5VDC to power, and act as a switch on the matrix. Measure the input connector of one of the opto boards for the +5VDC and GND. Should be very close to 5V.
- Are they all on the same row?
- Are they all on the same column?

#17 5 years ago

Wasn’t this Marvin’s RCT that was up and running at the Cleveland Show?

I had a RBION once that exhibited similar symptoms. A previous owner repaired some transistors or diodes on the board, can’t remember exactly, and didn’t clip the leads short enough and although the game played fine when I tested it it was crazy after I moved it as those leads were now shorting out on the backplane.

After fixing that I had an issue with U213 I think which is the security chip. It had some battery damage that was very hard to spot but enough to be a problem with boot up.

I have a few extra if you end up needing one.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

After fixing that I had an issue with U213 I think which is the security chip.

U213 is a programmed PAL that is used as an address decoder.

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

Wasn’t this Marvin’s RCT that was up and running at the Cleveland Show?
I had a RBION once that exhibited similar symptoms. A previous owner repaired some transistors or diodes on the board, can’t remember exactly, and didn’t clip the leads short enough and although the game played fine when I tested it it was crazy after I moved it as those leads were now shorting out on the backplane.
After fixing that I had an issue with U213 I think which is the security chip. It had some battery damage that was very hard to spot but enough to be a problem with boot up.
I have a few extra if you end up needing one.

Yeah it was Marvin's although it was having these issues all weekend at the show.

Once I get the power back up and running I'll get back to you about the CPU stuff

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from CoreyStup:

U213 is a programmed PAL that is used as an address decoder.

Right! I have 2 spares.

#21 5 years ago

Power issue solved, a wire had come out of its connector.

Now as far as the main issues go, the primary issues come from switches in row 4 being joined up with switches in row 6 (as in they will always activate together). I will mark this thread as resolved and start a new one with better and more specific information in the OP to reflect what I have narrowed it down to.

Also as far as switches registering randomly goes, it's because the connector to the handyman opto board was loose, which would just cause that opto to trigger on its own if it jiggled around, and since whenever it activates it also activates the switch in row 4, that is why the boo stuff was also randomly activating. Resoldering that connection fixed that issue.

EDIT: Nevermind creating the second thread, I wrote it all out, went to add a picture of the Switch Matrix, and then when I went to switch back to the tab I accidentally clicked the X and closed it, so I lost it. Then I fixed the problem on my own. I will probably have some new questions soon, but my main issues have been solved! (I do wish I would've been able to post that thread anyways though just to document the problem for others who may run in to a similar issue)

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