Coeur D'alene, ID
Yes, 5.2 volts
(Topic ID: 97670)
If I had to bet on it in Vegas (I prefer Craps, but...), I would go with the J3 connector on the solenoid board. Reflow the solder for the pins for J3, and then redo the J3 connector. That carries (among other things) the regulated power for the MPU, and that connector inevitably goes bad. I have a BlackJack, Playboy, Fireball2 (great game!), Speakeasy, and Meteor. They ALL needed that J3 connector redone.
mark
Redoing means that you order the .100 crimp pins and .100 size connector--25 pins I believe-- and a crimper and you one by one cut off each wire to that connector and strip the end and crimp on a new pin and then stuff it into the new connector... You will probly also want to do the same thing with the j4 on the mpu too. The veterans will tell you to do them all, and they're probly right, but those two oughta get you up and running. Get the parts at Great Plains electronics.
Ahhh, just what I need. Spend more money on this thing. Thanks for the help. Any ideas on why the coils are still locking on?
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Any ideas on why the coils are still locking on?
If it's not the driver transistors, then it's the predrivers or the decoder. I posted earlier which pins to check on those chips. Don't worry about high or low, just read the voltages and report your findings.
Quoted from dothedoo:Those readings look good. I think your driver transistors are bad, but you can check the driver ICs to make sure all is good there. Here are instructions I posted in a similar thread:
Decoder chip is U6, a 74154. What are the voltages on pins 20-23? Those are the inputs to the decoder and should all be a logical high (3-5 volts). Next, what are the voltages on pins 1-11 and 13-17? Those are the outputs and all should read a logical high except pin 17 should be low (0-1 volt). This is the inactive state. When the chip decodes the input lines it assigns one output line low. All highs on the inputs means pin 17 is low. Bally left this output disconnected so that no solenoids are energized when the chip is "inactive".
U4 is the predriver. What are the voltages on input pins 2,4,6,8,11,13,15 and 17? They should all read logical high. The chip is an inverter, so each output will be the opposite of the input. So all output pins 18,16,14,12,9,7,5 and 3 should be low.
Now, do I do this with the power on?
Quoted from Fishmugger:Check flipper switch if multi coil lock when turned on .
Not quite catching what your saying here...
Sounds like this is your first foray into the wonderful world of Bally. Welcome! What they are so nicely trying to tell you is it sounds like your having a power problem. It sounds like it's coming from the solenoid driver board and you should reflow solder to ALL the header pins and check the female sockets to see if there is corrosion. After that hopefully the MPU board will get clean power and boot correctly. If not your going to either have to rebuild or replace the solenoid board (rebuild is easy enough with a little reading and some soldering practice) Once that is done, then you can start diagnosing coil problems. Until you get the MPU to boot clean, your kind of chasing your tail trying to fix everything else.
I know the mpu is good as I bought a tested working one to replace the old one. I'll order the connectors soon so I can get to fixing. I have had one other bally, xenon, but that one worked perfectly. Thanks for your help.
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Now, do I do this with the power on?
Yes, power on, game in attract mode. Pull your playfield fuse so you don't have to worry about the coils. And the chips are U2, decoder and U1,U3,U4 predrivers. I don't know what I was looking at when I said U6. Sorry about that.
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