Thought he was on vacation

I have my rails off of the game right now that I could send. What's the turn around time for me getting them back? Dont want to send them off to wait a month or more to get them back.

Don’t sweat it panda. Mines been in a box for a year. He can take mine if he needs em. Just didn’t know he needed them.

Just wanted to dip in and say hello. I am trying to get my hands on a set of Viking rails so I have them as a template to make rails. Best case scenario is that I can hold onto the old rails to use for future sets. I know this is not always feasible so could also return the rails if need be.
-
I can also make a blank set with measurements if anyone wants to take measurements and provide them. I’ve done this with Star Gazer and is has worked well.
-
Pic is of some purple rails I worked on for a Skateball.
-
Thanks to those that have reached out already. Cheers.

92A0DAEF-210D-4FB5-BACB-4864094FA2E0 (resized).jpeg

Dat purple is fire.

Mine has an NOS backglass installed that sat for 30 years in a sealed crate and it looks a lot closer to the glass on the right of your pic in post 240. Just look at the game flyer on IPDB.org if you want a good comparison. Of course, if anyone has a flaking backglass then whatever repro is available would probably be a real upgrade.

Anyone parting a game or populated playfield? Im still ISO a set of rails. Please PM or email me at [email protected]

Thanks

Please someone get Taylor a set, I’ll need to order a set soon, lol

I’ve decided to build a Viking from parts.

I ordered the playfield , backglass and plastics, looking for parts and a cab now...

I’m concerned about the color on the cpr backglass, have they fixed the difference? I may return it and wait for a nice one if it doesn’t look correct.

Anyone have spare parts in a box they’d like to connect me with?

I had offered to send my set, but Taylor said that he potentially had someone to get him a set already. Waited a bit longer, then decided to move forward with my swap. I would have been happy to send mine but never got any followup

Sent you a PM.

Order a Backglass from Coos.

His business looks So awesome !

Man, that would be fun to make all those!

I just got mine like a month ago from him. I love it. He just did a custom Voltan for me that will arrive next Monday.

I received the backglass , plastics, and playfield,

I’m excited to have gotten them, they’re nice... for what they are; very nice reproductions

The playfield is stunning, but printlines can be seen in the blue print, the backglass looks great from 10 feet away, but details get hazy up close

If I were making these items, I would be extremely happy with my work. However when paying for perfection and hype, I would have expected better. I know cpr works hard at their craft, and it’s incredible these parts exist, so cudos to them for what it is.

On with the program!

262ACA09-99D8-4EAD-9E1E-A728B2F0218D (resized).jpeg

3386814C-92D9-4654-8F94-7D8B8C85984F (resized).jpeg

AD178D7F-7DFF-48BB-B83A-C4FABE4AE689 (resized).jpeg

I have acquired a set of Viking rails and am currently making my first 2 sets. Will post pics of the finish when they are done.

47C06933-150C-4325-AC8A-DCB6A480BE18 (resized).jpeg

So I guess I can join the club. Saturday I picked up a garage find that I got for free. At the time I did not realize it is a rare machine. This is my first machine. It has not been played in at least 10 years. At this point I do not plan on restoring it but rather I want to have a working machine that I can play. I spent most of yesterday doing research. I do have some problems and questions.

1. I do not have keys for it. I will try to pick the locks this afternoon (a skill set I have not used in years). Are the tumblers on one side or both sides and which direction does the cylinder turn? If necessary I will drill the locks.

2. I don't have the bolts for the legs. They may be inside but if not I can order them from a supplier in the Netherlands (Holland).

3. I don't have the bolts that secure the backbox. Can someone tell me what size they are? SAE hardware is hard to find here in the metric world. I will probably have to order them from the States.

4. The coin mechs are for DM. Is there a way to adjust/convert them to work with Euros?

5. Can anyone recommend a good parts supplier here in Europe

Thanks in advance

20210704_093932 (resized).jpg

20210704_093958 (resized).jpg

I believe Ministry of pinball is in netherlands, else you have pinball.center even though Im not too fond of the quality they have.

I'll be listing my Viking in the next few days for anyone that might be interested. It's got a CPR playfield in it and plays perfectly. Mint backglass and good cabinet.

Drove 3 hours on a Friday long weekend (up here), played one ball and went "glad I said I'd take it sight unseen."
At the price it would have been gone before I got there....

20211008_181833 (resized).jpg

20211008_181849 (resized).jpg

Looking forward to any/all the pics you display as I am an owner but want to
see this near mint example. Looking forward to the asking price as well.

The ad is posted. The cab would need a restencil but everything else is pretty nice.

Machine - For Sale

Viking Archived

Partially restored (almost original) - “Bally Viking for sale with a CPR playfield, mint backglass and lots of new parts. The cabinet is a 7.5/10 and wouldn't take too much work to get it restenciled and finished. All ...”

2021-10-10

Madison, WI

FatPanda

4,800 (Firm)

Archived after: 0 days

Viewed: 134 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

Wowza!! Game is on fire.

BA9CF880-C131-4C03-9096-57098E5D6193 (resized).png

Yep. Nothing like these relentless sellers prices
to coax this, or any, of the early solid state titles
out of the gameroom and into the open market.
... Got me considering what mine might fetch.

Asking those prices and actually getting them are two different things.

Yes, but the second one down sold at $5600. I’m trusting that is accurate. Don’t know why they would lie on a sold price. Am I missing something?
And if the second sold for anywhere near that number….. well, may have start thinking hard of selling. Not my favorite thing to do but it makes you ponder!!!

Top 5 early SS Bally for me. Mines never leaving.

It can tank in price for all I care. But it also makes me think, how many are still out there?

such a fun game

20220209_125330 (resized).jpg

Anybody going to Allentown have a spare set of Red Bally lane guides? Somebody replaced the top ones with green and most of the lower ones are cracked/broken.

Just got tge cabinet and head back yesterday from being restenciled, it's going g to be beautiful.

Putting in the new backglass tomorrow and then just need to wait for the lane guides and a little playfield touch up. I can see where people say it needs a 7 digit display, tilted it out just in time.

vik1 (resized).jpg

vik2 (resized).jpg

vik3 (resized).jpg

yea I have 7 digits in mine. definitely the way to go.

Hello! I’ve just joined the club, and I’m trying to figure out a couple gremlins in my machine. Wondering if you fine folks might be able to help!

1) my 1k bonus light (near the flippers) is always on, whether it be in attract mode or in game (so is the Star rollover for the EB, and it seems the 10x insert by the 1-2-3 drop bank)

2) my left flipper doesn’t get the ball all the way around the S curve to the bonus collect saucer but on the rarest occasion; 9/10 times it’ll get it close, to about the top left bumper, but fall into the bumper instead

3) the right slingshot coil wasn’t firing, and I found there was a red wire disconnected from one of the two lugs on the coil. I resoldered it to the lug, but then when I turn the game on and go into coil test, the coil a) doesn’t fire, and b) smokes! Pics are below of the coil; maybe the coil itself is bad? Doesn’t seem to be wired incorrectly or anything, but I’m relatively new to this, so here I am

4) I’ve noticed the GI flickers when I press the flipper buttons

5) at least during display test, the GI flickers with each display change

This is an awesome game, and I’m excited to have it and get these few problems resolved so that it sings! Any help is greatly appreciated!

34E8A533-9B76-4C4E-9C51-428256D1EF63 (resized).jpeg3CB896FC-2A3E-459D-853C-2311720F8995 (resized).jpeg3FD9C685-1939-48EE-BF30-FA926C35F9E9 (resized).jpeg991309DD-1128-4BFE-8ACF-5AC1C34FB80D (resized).jpeg

the transistor is bad for that sling shot and if the light is stuck on at all times that scr is bad on lamp board. not being able to make the orbit is a known issue on Vikings so either put a stronger coil in or get bonus collect off of pops into saucer

Awesome, thank you for the insight and tips! I’ll do some testing, get some parts ordered and replaced, and report back

Kind of funny.. when set up well, you won't need them too often.. but when you do, you REALLY need them.. lol.

Question about spinner pause and scoring.

Particularly after juicing the spinner up, I can get some crazy rips.. (great).

But with that, I particularly notice that when it has a hard spin, you almost want to avoid the top saucer as this basically skips quite a bit of scoring?

I just wanted to confirm if this is software, or if there is something mechanical I should perhaps look into.. test the switch cap or something?

Thank you-

It's a limitation of the software operating system.
When the ball enters the saucer and it's being serviced by the saucer code, the operating system can in the background flag that the spinner has activated again (once) but there is no implementation that counts how many times the spinner has spun.

The software could be modified so when the ball enters the saucer, it waits for the spinner to stop spinning and be idle for say 1 second before servicing the saucer.

Ahh.. ok, thank you for the clarification.

Anyone have thoughts on the saucer holding until the spinner is finished ripping?

It is probably really obvious to me, as I play a lot of WMS Grand Prix, where as an EM, you rip the spinner, but there is still a hold on the saucer until the spinner has finished.

The only way to resolve this is to modify the software. I might have a look into it but the game ROMs (U1/U2) are already full so it's not going to be a straight forward 10 minute job.

Cool, yeah, it's funny how simple some titles can seem, but when you dig in and break down the existing rules, there is a fair amount there.

Thought I'd add that the saucer does seem to behave differently when the spinner is going.. It's delayed for sure.. But just doesnt seem to do anything.. Like the ball is held for extra long and you miss out on a bunch of spins...

If for example you land it on the plunge, it kicks it out almost right away.

I’m still collecting parts for building my Viking, I found a parted out Mata Hari cabinet and playfield with an empty backbox, so I might be using alltek boards...

Couple questions

1. Can 7 digit displays be used with alltek mpu boards? Anyone care to link to the how-to?

2. Anyone figure out the apron debacle ? Is the apron the same color purple as on the cabinet? Anyone ever find the decal for the apron?

3. Anyone opposed to changing the paint pallet for the cabinet?

I’m not sure about the 7-digit conversion. I need to switch mine over for sure.
To my knowledge, there was never a decal made for Viking that I found.
I painted my rails and cabinet the same purple on the playfield. I like them to match as my OCD likes matches. Also the cabinet colors really match the playfield perfectly. But, as they say, you do you.

2B1D2B7B-1830-478A-8841-0B9324363E4E (resized).jpeg

A1752914-14AC-45B4-A001-FCA7AA5518B2 (resized).jpeg

Your options are:
a) Modify the Alltek ROM with Olivers 7-digit code - however this will void your Alltek warranty. You'd then need to build and wire Olivers decoder circuit.
b) Install X-Pin 7volution displays
c) Use a modern Weebly MPU board that has the 7-digit software/hardware support with any 7-digit displays of your choice.

Go with option B. Working great on my Viking.

Nice, so you have an alltek mpu + 7volution displays?

Excellent choices, thank you for the rundown

Actually it's a Weebly MPU.

https://nvram.weebly.com/mpu.html