(Topic ID: 233415)

Making a WH2O “normal” again

By Bryan_Kelly

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 79 posts
  • 33 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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#2 5 years ago

I will buy those white mountains from you

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Ideally, I'd like to trade the white ones for perfect original ones. Bumbles also.
I've got a lot of irons in the fire right now. I'll wait and see what happens. If people don't get a reply from me, I'm dealing with someone who has what I want.

I have a couple sets of the brown ones new I was going to get airbrushed, but I'm going to keep them for now

#16 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I will say, the white ones are not painted. They are the ones someone reproduced some time ago. They're also in perfect condition.

I understand

1 week later
#31 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I would say most Williams/Bally games were not meant to be powder coated. Looks great on newer games cause that's the way so many of them come.

That's a silly argument. Because the factory decided something "it's the way to go". Stainless steel in many cases looks plain and unfinished. That being said, white powder on this game and pretty much all games looks awful.

#75 5 years ago
Quoted from mwong168:

Black should work and probably looks best for most WPC games if you want a different look than stainless. The problem with color matching is some people's idea of a match made in heaven for a game looks more like hell. I basically attribute it to some people having more money than taste
Anyways, if anyone is interested in a Bumbles my friend might have one from when he made his WH20 normal again too.

I have also found darker colors seem to work better overall. Anything bright or colors that pop such as teals whites etc are awful. Need something subtle. I saw a medieval with a deep two-tone purple that was great. That fishtales looks terrible

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