(Topic ID: 84865)

Making a RFM bulletproof.


By NewPinOwner

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 25 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by wongojack
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

Howdy fellas,

So, many here know I am selling TFTC, and in its place is going a VERY nice RFM. I plan to deliver TFTC a week from today and pick up RFM a week from Sunday. So, I've started doing my homework - watching the setup videos on YT, reading other forums, scouring the usual places to see what parts are easy and not so easy to find, and here's something that caught my eye:

http://www.coinopspace.com/forum/topics/revenge-from-marspros-cons?commentId=2467396%3AComment%3A25415

"Without a doubt the most unreliable parts of a Pinball 2000 machine are common, cheap and easily replaceable - the CPU fan and Computer Power Supply"

We got some cross references for the two of these? I'd like to have a spare of each ready just to be safe.

It sounds like the rest of the "behind the scenes gear" of the game is pretty solid and stout.

Looking forward to bringing this one home. It is my grail pin, and with T3 and HS2 sitting next to it, I'll be "being happy" for a while .

Soon......

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#2 5 years ago

very nice. And get the video amplifier as well - makes a big difference to the graphics.

#3 5 years ago

You got a link for that? I am brand new to P2000, but I am diving in head first. Cannot understand why RFM gets so poo-poo'd on. It is a FANTASTIC game. To me, this is way better than standard pinball (no, I will not sell T3 and HS2).

#4 5 years ago

As for the power supply fan, you are probably better off getting a modern ATX power supply for $40. Here's how to make it work: http://antelopearcade.com/forum/yaf_postst4_Pinball-2000-AT-to-ATX-Power-Supply-Replacement.aspx

As for the CPU fan, it is an Evercool 50X10mm Fan (3pin, EC5010M12CA) which is still available (Amazon, Ebay, or Newegg) although any 50x10mm fan will work. It's best to stick with a ball bearing fan for reliability, which the Evercool is.

#5 5 years ago

Thank you, Nosro! I appreciate the cross reference #s and links! Whatever I can do to keep my upcoming RFM strong as an ox. I can't wait to bring it home!

#6 5 years ago

Is Nucore still being made?

#7 5 years ago

Not that I am aware of.

#8 5 years ago

Nice thread - I'm a new RFM owner too. Someone told me that there is a sort of knockoff Nucore called Pinbox. It seems it can be found if one looks under the right rock for it.

#9 5 years ago

1/4 inch plate steel stops most infantry rounds. Might have to reinforce the legs with the added weight. I'm glad you got your RFM coming buddy!

#10 5 years ago

Replace all of the Cherry DA3 microswitches with new ones. They are pretty much always bad if they have never been replaced.
Micro switch body
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1860
or you can buy the whole switch with the wire on it which I recommend.
Check your manual for the correct part number.

Don't have a manual? That would be the first part I would purchase to keep you in business.

#11 5 years ago

I also picked up a RFM recently. The CPU fan was already noisy. After cleaning out the CPU box (the fan was rubbing the power cable insulation) I replaced the CPU fan and converted an ATX power supply I had. Had to get a new switch for the front of the CPU box, but the whole operation was pretty easy and will last for years.

I've identified 7 cherry switches that need replacing. i just ordered the full assembly (A-17813) and new diode. In the meantime it makes the game more challenging to play with 7 switches dead or intermittent.

Aside from a couple missing/broken plastics, one problem I keep having is the bulb above the left outlane breaking - even with a new tight rubber. It looks like with the outlane full open there isn't enough room for the rubber to stop the ball from striking the bulb.

#12 5 years ago

Where did you get the cherry DA3 switches that are complete?

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from Imeh:

Where did you get the cherry DA3 switches that are complete?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-19

Quoted from wizzardz:Had to get a new switch for the front of the CPU box

You don't need to get a new switch, you can use the original one. Follow the instructions on the site nosro linked.

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from wizzardz:

one problem I keep having is the bulb above the left outlane breaking - even with a new tight rubber. It looks like with the outlane full open there isn't enough room for the rubber to stop the ball from striking the bulb.

I'm not sure if I'm thinking of the same bulb, but shouldn't this spot have double rubber?

I have this problem with the single bulb that sits just to the left of the center target bank, under a plastic. After I broke the second bulb (with new rubber), I bent the bulb bracket so that the entire bulb sits under the playfield and shines through the hole.

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from dieseldogpi:

You don't need to get a new switch, you can use the original one. Follow the instructions on the site nosro linked

The original in mine was soldered and was more trouble than worth to clean up (the switch in the instructions don't look like they were soldered). I could likely have even done without one, but I had a switch laying around and the machine had to go thru other troubleshooting where the switch came in handy.

Quoted from nosro:

but shouldn't this spot have double rubber?

You are correct sir...ty.

interestingly the one plastic I'm missing is the one over that bulb next to the center targets. Despite the number of times the ball flies into, over and even onto it, that bulb hasn't broken on mine yet. But the bracket idea sounds like a good solution, especially of it has a brighter LED.

#16 5 years ago

Are you talking about this bulb? I find it hard to believe that the ball is able to push through both sides of both rubbers. Maybe one of the posts is loose?

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#17 5 years ago
Quoted from wizzardz:

The original in mine was soldered and was more trouble than worth to clean up (the switch in the instructions don't look like they were soldered). I could likely have even done without one, but I had a switch laying around and the machine had to go thru other troubleshooting where the switch came in handy.

Oh OK. I just didn't want people to think you had to. The original switch will work. You just have to cut the green wire from the ATX PSU, solder it to one tab of the switch, then solder another wire to the other tab and ground that to the case.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from wizzardz:

It looks like with the outlane full open there isn't enough room for the rubber to stop the ball from striking the bulb.

I took a look at my machine and I have the outlane fully closed! That probably explains why I have had no bulb breakage. Seems like smaller rubber would be a good idea if you plan to use fully-open outlane.

#19 5 years ago

I've placed the second bands on it and replaced the bulb (left lane fully open). Haven't played it much since, but so far no broken bulb.

#20 5 years ago

All right - TFTC has been delivered to its new owner. Tomorrow, I head to Michigan to load up and bring home RFM. Can't wait!!!!!!

I'll make a new thread in the near future documenting the pickup and setup of my upcoming new RFM.

Jessica was very sad to see TFTC, but it's like I told her: Mars...............kneads..........WOMEN!!!!!!

I'll keep everyone in the loop .

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#21 5 years ago

Whereabouts in Michigan? There seem to be a few RFM's in circulation here.

#22 5 years ago

shhh... the whereabouts of our RFMs are supposed to be a classified secret. much like area 51

#23 5 years ago

Well, we just lost one to Ohio

#24 5 years ago
Quoted from TunaSled:

Well, we just lost one to Ohio

You sure did - possibly one of the best examples I've ever seen too.

Now that it is out of MI, I'll say: It was in Kentwood.

1 week later
#25 5 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

As for the CPU fan, it is an Evercool 50X10mm Fan (3pin, EC5010M12CA) which is still available (Amazon, Ebay, or Newegg) although any 50x10mm fan will work. It's best to stick with a ball bearing fan for reliability, which the Evercool is.

FYI that I measured my fan and it is 50x10mm (screw holes at 40mm). Jamicon 12v Model JF0510B1M

Post edited by wongojack: posted wrong info!

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