Yeah, I do need this for my SF2 pinball someday...
Quoted from smitherssp:Google the tracking number and select Canada post. I got the same message from Deutsche post. You need to track it via your countries mail service site.
Thanks Smithers! I wasn't aware of that.
August 5, 2017, 6:49 pm Inbound Out of Customs
Preemptive where is the best place for to get the 12v
The provided power supply is capable of using any input from 6 to 32 Volts so there are some options
Most important is amperage and fuses used on the power line you use! Since the panels could theoretically draw up to 7 amps (in fact the ofter use less than 1A) a decent supply is strongly recommended.
Maybe its best to use the 18V/20V power line for flashers, but i'm not 100% certain about that. Maybe Malenko would be No.1 source of knwoledge
Quoted from cocomonkeh:August 5, 2017, 6:49 pm Inbound Out of Customs
Preemptive where is the best place for to get the 12v
I put an arcade game switching power supply inside mine, but there are tons of places to tap for power. The power supply right in the middle of the head has 12v and 5v to tap. I just put a switching power supply in to keep everything as reversible as possible.
I really with those AC plugs located on the incoming power box were switched and not constant. That would be a slick spot to plug in a AC-DC adapter and run to various add ons... I could probably mod it so the sockets turned on with the main switch but at that point it's probably more trouble than it's worth...
1 is switched one isnt, at least in my machine. My arcade power supply is plugged into one of them. Can take pix when I get home.
Whhhhaattt?!? I'll check them when I get home. Shit, I have enough DC power supplies that I can use for this task. I'd rather do that than molest my machine.
I'll be damned. I checked the AC power sockets and sure enough one is switch. I'm going to grab a AC/DC adapter and tap my DMD's power in that way!
It's ok but you really don't need to!
I have already a lot of installs without additional power supplies... all work flawlessly.
Quoted from Rappelbox:It's ok but you really don't need to!
I have already a lot of installs without additional power supplies... all work flawlessly.
it can definitely be installed by tapping the power supply in the head, its just easier to reverse the way I did it.
Quoted from Rappelbox:The provided power supply is capable of using any input from 6 to 32 Volts so there are some options
Most important is amperage and fuses used on the power line you use! Since the panels could theoretically draw up to 7 amps (in fact the ofter use less than 1A) a decent supply is strongly recommended.
I have a [email protected] supply. I'm assuming 42W will be enough?
Thanks!
Is there an installation guide that comes with this?
All this talk about voltage and adaptors has me quite perplexed.
Quoted from smitherssp:Did you watch the video I linked to?
Yes I did....this stuff just isn't my area of expertise, that's all. I can solder and do the technical work, I just dont understand some of the language
Ill just wait for the DMD to arrive before I over analyze the installation part.
Ok....just to specify this in the most layman's terms possible....because I am bound to somehow screw this up.
In this picture, I'm pointing at two chords
The circled (in red) chord becomes obsolete when I'm installing my new DMD correct?
The other chord will be plugged into my new DMD correct?
You use the data cable (the un-circled "cord") on the pin2dmd, but you do not use the circled one. As for the second question, bust out your multimeter and make sure its 20V , I installed a switching power supply , I didnt use the installation method in the video.
Malenko is correct. You don't use that while plug with the Pin2DMD, only the ribbon cable. You can get power from anywhere you want provided the line you're stealing current from can support the draw (per Rappel's comments). So you have two choices:
1) The method from the video: Solder the hot/red wire to the 20V flasher circuit on the back board. Attach black/ground wire to any ground.
2) The Smithers' method: Plug in a AC/DC adapter to the switched AC port on the power box, wire that shit up to the Pin2DMD. I'm literally going to use a spare adapter I had laying around from an old Dymo label printer (ignore the red box).
Malenko's method is different because he already has a stand alone switching power supply.
I took the pix but didnt upload them yesterday, so here they are now.
PS and power cord:
20170808_182930 (resized).jpg
front wiring of PS:
20170808_182950 (resized).jpg
Full body shot :p
20170808_183414 (resized).jpg
Bonus Ken!
20170808_182517 (resized).jpg
he just sits there, occasionally the "chun li return" will nudge his hand. If I ever sell the machine I'll keep him.
Thanks for the pic. I'll take some as well when I get everything installed. I wouldn't have to worry about hitting ken. My ball never see's the ChunLi return...
I'll bust out my multimeter and show where to tap for 20v for Manatee , I'll take the pix tonight but will likely upload them tomorrow.
Quoted from Malenko:I took the pix but didnt upload them yesterday, so here they are now.
PS and power cord:front wiring of PS:
Full body shot :p
Bonus Ken!
he just sits there, occasionally the "chun li return" will nudge his hand. If I ever sell the machine I'll keep him.
This looks like an easy way to get power set up as I have a spare power supply I never used for a blue elf multiboard. I just need to get a power cord without an end. Could you show a better picture of how the power cord wires hooked into the power supply? Also, I am assuming that the red wire at the top is the power wire for the DMD, but what is the white wire? I am also assuming that there is a black ground wire of the DMD that you connected to a ground port on the cabinet.
Looks like mine should arrive just in time for me to head out of town on my next trip. Guess I can watch all the videos a few times to try and better learn what I need to do to have the only color DMD Tee'd Off machine
Thanks for your time and help.
Tim
Quoted from TimBoch:This looks like an easy way to get power set up as I have a spare power supply I never used for a blue elf multiboard. I just need to get a power cord without an end. Could you show a better picture of how the power cord wires hooked into the power supply? Also, I am assuming that the red wire at the top is the power wire for the DMD, but what is the white wire? I am also assuming that there is a black ground wire of the DMD that you connected to a ground port on the cabinet.
Looks like mine should arrive just in time for me to head out of town on my next trip. Guess I can watch all the videos a few times to try and better learn what I need to do to have the only color DMD Tee'd Off machine
Thanks for your time and help.
Tim
I didnt use best practices and the white is the ground, it splices into the black wire from the pin2DMD it'll get replaced eventually.
The power cord for the arcade power supply is just a PC power cord with the end lopped off.
Green is the Earth Ground
Black is the hot
White is the neutral
If you happen to cut a power cord and it has international coloring for the wires (like mine)
Green w Yellow Stripe is ground
Brown is hot
Blue is neutral.
Quoted from Malenko:I didnt use best practices and the white is the ground, it splices into the black wire from the pin2DMD it'll get replaced eventually.
The power cord for the arcade power supply is just a PC power cord with the end lopped off.
Green is the Earth Ground
Black is the hot
White is the neutral
If you happen to cut a power cord and it has international coloring for the wires (like mine)
Green w Yellow Stripe is ground
Brown is hot
Blue is neutral.
That clears up a lot. I think I'll just go buy a power cord without an end from Menards today and hook it up to my unused power supply.
But am I correct that you needed to splice some wires to make the DMD wires reach the power supply?
Thanks again for the information.
Quoted from TimBoch:But am I correct that you needed to splice some wires to make the DMD wires reach the power supply?
Thanks again for the information.
Depends on where you put the power supply. You could probably lay it flat in the back of the cab and it'd reach. I put mine where I did because it was the easiest and I didnt have to worry about hitting it with the playfield.
EDIT: and yeah, that cord is perfect for powering the switching power supply.
I *think* Gottlieb with enhancer. Just plug it in and pick one, if it doesnt work, pick the other :p
Quoted from freddy:It's here!
This looks a little squashed...
Somehow I have serious doubts it's not damaged.
Quoted from Rappelbox:This looks a little squashed...
Somehow I have serious doubts it's not damaged.
didn't open it yet but i can.
Tracking shows mine delivered. Unfortunately I have to get my hair cut at 5:30PM EST. DAMMIT! lol...
Quoted from smitherssp:malenko : What mode are you running. Gottlieb or Gottlieb 92?
If you have Gottlieb 92 you don´t have the latest firmware installed.
Please use the latest firmware for the Malenko colorization.
So funny you should mention that! I was assuming based off youtube videos. I have the newest and there is Gottlieb 1, 2, and 3. Any idea which one to select? Here's a quick video:
The car crush is currently black and white. I'll toy around some more.
Friendly reminder folks to please tip Malenko for his work. He put in over 190 hours into this colorization! I just kicked him some well deserved cash via PayPal.
http://paypal.me/Malenk0
After some further testing using the Gottlieb V2 profile I'd say it's 98% there. Periodically it loses color on certain animation but when you have so many variations in firmware that's to be expected. Frankly I'm surprised Malenko was able to avoid this issue from happening more frequently. I'll be doing a dump for him so that he can examine any aforementioned instance.
Quoted from cocomonkeh:Blew my flasher fuse trying to install mine so I guess I'm going to dig out a power supply to try.
Uh oh..thats what im worried I'll do.
I managed to find an old laptop adapter....was wondering if anyone could tell me if this will work for the DMD.
Then all I gotta do is connect the cord into the power bar under the playfield
Quoted from Malenko:Depends on where you put the power supply. You could probably lay it flat in the back of the cab and it'd reach. I put mine where I did because it was the easiest and I didnt have to worry about hitting it with the playfield.
EDIT: and yeah, that cord is perfect for powering the switching power supply.
One more question. Here is my unused power supply. The power cord connection looks to be straight forward. I bought a 6 foot cord so it could reach all the way to the back of the cabinet.
I noticed that you connected your DMD power (red wire) to a 5V 15A connection, I have a 5V 16A option, would that be sufficient? Or would the 12V 4A option at the top be better. Also, I expect that I can just connect the DMD ground to either the ground in the back cabinet, which is only a foot away, or connect it to the ground on the power supply.
Thanks again for all the help.
Tim
Quoted from smitherssp:So funny you should mention that! I was assuming based off youtube videos. I have the newest and there is Gottlieb 1, 2, and 3. Any idea which one to select? Here's a quick video:
» YouTube video
The car crush is currently black and white. I'll toy around some more.
Gottlieb 2 is the correct mode.
V1 for machines from '92
V2 for machine from '93-'95 (Shaq Attaq)
V3 for later machines
Quoted from ImNotNorm:was wondering if anyone could tell me if this will work for the DMD.
It'll work. Assuming there's nothing fancy in the supply that would shut it off if it was a foreign device.
Quoted from TimBoch:I noticed that you connected your DMD power (red wire) to a 5V 15A connection, I have a 5V 16A option, would that be sufficient? Or would the 12V 4A option at the top be better. Also, I expect that I can just connect the DMD ground to either the ground in the back cabinet, which is only a foot away, or connect it to the ground on the power supply.
You can honestly use either. Personally I'd use the 12V as there would be less current used. Do not connect the ground to the pin. Connect both PIN2DMD power lines to the power supply.
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