(Topic ID: 109566)

Make a Paragon glass

By bumgahdna

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 21 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by bumgahdna
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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p2.jpg
Picture1-106.jpg
Picture2.jpg
vinyl.jpg
without vinyl.jpg
PARAGON_mask.png
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#1 9 years ago

I picked up a basket case Paragon with the intention of a full restoration. However, finding a decent backglass for a decent price was near impossible. Plus, i'm on a budget. So, Make one!

here's a shot of my old one...

20141008_090904.jpg20141008_090904.jpg

PLEASE NOTE!!!! this would not have been possible if not for the FREE image located by this generous soul...

http://tuukan.fliput.net/bglass_en.html

thanks guy!!!!

Unfortunately, his link for the silver layer was missing. So, here you go...

PARAGON_mask.pngPARAGON_mask.png

First, Either buy you a new piece of glass for about $40, or you can do what i did. I took a razor and scraped what was left of my backglass off completely. Then, I used 0000 steel wool and windex to clean the glass better. My friend owns a vinyl printing shop so he took the images, layered them, printed them, and applied them to my glass (no charge for me yayyyy! Also this vinyl is for commercial signs and can stand the heat). Vinyl costs about $10 per sqft, so you'd be looking at about $50! Sorry i don't have a pic of the final product yet but when i do i'll post. I have the cabinet stripped for paint, but will post pics upon reconstruction. Hell, anything is better than what i had!!

Good luck!

#2 9 years ago

I found a pic of the glass before i added the vinyl and took the cabinet apart. the pic is a little blurry, but the backglass looks great!! this was before i added the vinyl back as well.

without vinyl.jpgwithout vinyl.jpg

here's a shot of the vinyl applied...my bud did a great job!!

vinyl.jpgvinyl.jpg

#3 9 years ago

Nice!

1 week later
#4 9 years ago

Good work!
Congratulations!

#5 9 years ago

How did you apply the first print to the glass?

#6 9 years ago

My friend at the vinyl shop did it. He told me that he actually split the first image up into three layers and applied them separately. I have no idea what that means lol. Then the fourth layer was the black mask.

Also, before i stripped my glass, i measured the distance from the top and side of the glass to the open spots where the score displays show. He used this as a guide to lining up the image.

#7 9 years ago

Well they/you did a good job. I have repro glass from bgresto.com and it is a similar process but probably not quite as good. It does look better than my faded and flaking original glass though.

#8 9 years ago

Thanks Gov!

Good to know you have one, I may be needing some info on reassembly lol. this is my first rebuild. i took tons of pics but i know i missed something. currently i just touched up the playfield (very amateurly) and have the first few coats of auto clear on it. the inserts are really cupped so i'm attempting to level some of that out so the playfield will be perfectly smooth and bulletproof...

before clear...i had to touchup almost the whole lion leg feather part...not bad i think!
Picture2.jpgPicture2.jpg
after clear yah blurry but i think it looks even better! kinda smoooths out the divits...
Picture1-106.jpgPicture1-106.jpg

#9 9 years ago

Looks nice! I am replacing all of the inserts on my playfield and that is proving to be quite a challenge. I hope it pays off in the long run though.

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from bumgahdna:

Thanks Gov!
Good to know you have one, I may be needing some info on reassembly lol. this is my first rebuild. i took tons of pics but i know i missed something. currently i just touched up the playfield (very amateurly) and have the first few coats of auto clear on it. the inserts are really cupped so i'm attempting to level some of that out so the playfield will be perfectly smooth and bulletproof...
before clear...i had to touchup almost the whole lion leg feather part...not bad i think!

after clear yah blurry but i think it looks even better! kinda smoooths out the divits...

I'd definitely be happy with that work! Touchup on feather leg is good; can't even notice it. Did you spray or brush? I tried a touchup of my own and I was happy with the "art" but my colors were off a bit and I could have made a much better/smoother surface to airbrush on as it was a heavily worn to the wood and then some type of spot.

Quoted from Gov:

Well they/you did a good job. I have repro glass from bgresto.com and it is a similar process but probably not quite as good. It does look better than my faded and flaking original glass though.

Do you have a picture of it? I heard they made the lighting better through a revised process and was curious as to how it looks if you got it recently that is.

#11 9 years ago

I did get it recently, it was purchased around the time of MGC. I don't have my game assembled right now or I would snap a pic, I have the backglass stored. It is a bit darker than the original and the shadow mask was a hair off at the top of the glass, so when it is backlit, the guys face is a hair blurry, but when it is not lit, it looks original.

Like I said, it is better than my faded original and I prefer it to the CPR one.

#12 9 years ago

Yeah i can't wait to light mine up and see how it looks, but i've still got the cabinet apart for painting.

as far as removing the inserts, i used a small rubber hammer and a socket that fit just inside the hole from the underside then tapped them (the star rollovers) right out. they came out super easy, almost like they were just stuck in there. I read using a heat gun a little help too.

#13 9 years ago

hi Timewarp,

thanks this is my first try!

I just used a tiny brush with acrylic paint (and i cheated in a place or two and used a sharpie which i heard you're not supposed to do but i figured since i'm clearing what the heck). I gotta say that it was a little noticeable before the clear (like yours the surface was rough), but the clear levels everything out and hides imperfections quite well! it also keeps the light from bouncing off all the rough angles. some of my colors didn't quite match either, but since they are "feathers" no one will notice unless you have the original right next to it.

#14 9 years ago
Quoted from bumgahdna:

(and i cheated in a place or two and used a sharpie which i heard you're not supposed to do but i figured since i'm clearing what the heck)

Actually the reason you're not supposed to use Sharpie is it will run when you clearcoat.

#15 9 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Actually the reason you're not supposed to use Sharpie is it will run when you clearcoat.

this .. x1000

#16 9 years ago

hmmm, we used a 2 stage automotive clear and i haven't seen any running issues yet. i know where i used it (the black lines on the yellow underneath the lion's feather leg for one place) and i'll take a closer look later. Thanks for letting me know Aurich! I still have Playboy, Star Trek, Strikes n Spares, Mata Hari, Big Shot, and Cleopatra to go!

#17 9 years ago

BTW Aurich, I'm insanely jealouse of your pinball collection.

#18 9 years ago
Quoted from bumgahdna:

BTW Aurich, I'm insanely jealouse of your pinball collection.

If you were closer I'd invite you over to play!

Glad you're not having issues with the Sharpie, but that is something that can happen, so just watch out for that. There are markers that are safe, I think it's documented in vid's playfield restoration thread.

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from bumgahdna:

as far as removing the inserts, i used a small rubber hammer and a socket that fit just inside the hole from the underside then tapped them (the star rollovers) right out. they came out super easy, almost like they were just stuck in there. I read using a heat gun a little help too.

I had a hard time removing my inserts. Had several of them pull up some of the wood around them.

1 month later
#20 9 years ago

UPDATE here's the glass lit up. Granted, it's on my strikes and spares but i think it looks great!p2.jpgp2.jpg

2 months later
#21 9 years ago

i would say the only thing i would have done differently would have been to use a semi-transparent silver layer instead of the solid black

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