(Topic ID: 239685)

Major CPU Board Repair on Williams High Speed

By Dennis33

5 years ago


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  • 116 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by cjchand
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

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#20 5 years ago
Quoted from Moto_bone:

He's got the original that's in ok shape. A good cleanup and repair isn't going to cost him any money if he does it himself.
Besides, it's very fulfilling to bring a board back from the dead.

Also, there's a large community on this site that has *very* extensive experience and knowledge with the stock Sys11 boards. If/when the Rottendog stuff has issues, it's less likely that experts can be found to help out. Just my $0.02.

#32 5 years ago
Quoted from Dennis33:

.
While looking at the playfield I found a 2.2k mfd, 250V cap hanging onto the right flipper with one leg disconnected. I don't know if it was ever connected or it fell off at one time. It's the big yellow one in the first picture. Does it belong there? There isn't one on the other flippers.

You have to mismatched flipper coils there. The one on the left is a serial wound coil, which is what is stock to the machine. The one on the right is a parallel wound coil, which does use that capacitor that’s hanging off of it. The capacitor helps prevent arcing, which keeps the contacts of the flipper buttons and the end of stroke switch from pitting as quickly. So, you’ll want to make sure you get that put back correctly.

Based on the coloring ( there is a color code for flipper strength which is mentioned in the link at the end of this post ), it looks like you might be two levels weaker on that flipper coil than it should be.

Nothing to worry about, except possibly for one thing. I can’t find what that part number is for the coil on the right, but I suspect it’s not the right strength of coil.

Vid’s flipper replacement guide, he goes into great detail about the purpose and writing of that cap as well as which parallel wound coil is equivalent to the same serial wound part. More on equivalents and other bits here: https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

#40 5 years ago
Quoted from Dennis33:

Thanks @cjchand!
So should I replace the right flipper coil, or replace the cap. I never had a problem with that flipper when the machine was working.
Here's a better picture of the coil.
[quoted image]

Oh! Seems the color coding isn’t relevant in this case. That part number (SFL-23/600...) is indeed the right part.

I read differing opinions on whether the cap is useful for serial wound coils (which this one is). It won’t hurt if it’s wired in, but it is definitely not needed.

So, like my wife does, feel free to ignore my “wisdom”

3 weeks later
#103 4 years ago
Quoted from Dennis33:

pinballmaniac40 I did exactly that and I can't get past the Music Test and I can get to the Music Test with the Center Button either up or down. Now I'm also getting Adjust Failure Right Outlane 32, but everything works fine.

Nevermind... didn't see @dumbass' reply

#114 4 years ago

Not a direct answer to your question, but definitely worth a read: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers

#116 4 years ago

No problem.

Vid has Godlike status here - for good reason. He’s got really really helpful threads on all manner of restoration (Playfield, cab, waxing (yes, people debate how a Playfield should be waxed )).

Definitely seek out his wisdom, as his posts cover most anything related to pin maintenance or restoration.

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