(Topic ID: 239685)

Major CPU Board Repair on Williams High Speed

By Dennis33

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 116 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by cjchand
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

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There are 116 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 4 years ago
Quoted from Dennis33:

I'm also getting Adjust Failure

Once you make any changes in the adjustment menu, you can to continue through until the game resets for it to save any changes to settings. Assuming you can get into the adjustment menu.

#102 4 years ago
Quoted from Dennis33:

I can get to the Music Test with the Center Button either up or down.

There's your problem.

The "auto/manual" switch is DPDT (but wired to only use SPDT). It's registering as always open ("down"). When you get to the music test you should be able to ground the switch closed by connecting the blue and white wires - pins 2 and 3 on 1J14. Once you do that the rest of the diagnostics should work (assuming the "advance" switch is registering correctly).

You can exclude the physical switches in your coin door by shorting pins on 1J14.

#103 4 years ago
Quoted from Dennis33:

pinballmaniac40 I did exactly that and I can't get past the Music Test and I can get to the Music Test with the Center Button either up or down. Now I'm also getting Adjust Failure Right Outlane 32, but everything works fine.

Nevermind... didn't see @dumbass' reply

#104 4 years ago

I jumpered pins 2&3 with the AUTO/MANUAL button up and down while continually touching the 2&3 several times. Just went into Music Test and stayed there.

I did major work on the MPU board, so could there be a problem there?

#105 4 years ago

disconnect the coin door and jumper the pins on the mpu to test

#106 4 years ago

Diagnostic switch input does involve a PIA but it's U51. There's also logic in U14 and U36. If you didn't touch those ICs I would be less likely to think you have a problem there. I'd try to rule out the physical switches first.

You can connect clips to the physical switches and test them with your DMM continuity test.

The "advance" switch is a momentary SPST switch. With clips in the right spots and the DMM on continuity test the DMM should buzz when you press the switch.

The "auto/manual" switch a latching DPDT switch. Test against the common and NC and NO appropriately.

Once you've ruled out the physical switches deal with shorting pins on 1J14.

#107 4 years ago

I did do a lot of cleaning around U51 including the traces to 1J1 and other places on that part of the board. I didn't touch U14 or U36. I doubt it's the switches since I couldn't do diagnostics by jumpering 2&3 on 1J14 and bypassing the door buttons. I'll test them anyway, I guess.

Thanks

#108 4 years ago

If you're worried then it's U51-18 and U51-40. You can logic probe (or measure DC voltage) the state with the buttons open and closed and see if the signals correspond. Beyond that then it could be the PIA's processing of the signal.

#109 4 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

If you're worried then it's U51-18 and U51-40. You can logic probe (or measure DC voltage) the state with the buttons open and closed and see if the signals correspond. Beyond that then it could be the PIA's processing of the signal.

I do have an extra PIA that I can put in. I may do that to eliminate U51 being the problem. I'm glad I bought 25 feet of solder wick the last time I ordered it.

Also,regarding the Sol-4 Pop Bumper problem, since the Solenoid Saver board isn't meant to be used in a System 11, is it possible that the 1.25SB fuse is undersized for that solenoid.

#110 4 years ago
Quoted from Dennis33:

Also,regarding the Sol-4 Pop Bumper problem, since the Solenoid Saver board isn't meant to be used in a System 11, is it possible that the 1.25SB fuse is undersized for that solenoid.

No, since it burns after a few pops you need to remove the switch stack and clean the cup of the spoon. Once it is clean inspect it for grooves or indentations that would cause it to release the switch contacts too slowly. You may need to replace the spoon if it's worn out. It may just be full of dirt causing it to move slowly. The longer the coil is on the hotter the fuse gets until it burns. The solenoid saver board will work fine for system 11s, it's just the labelling isn't correct for which transistor goes to which special solenoid.

#111 4 years ago

Thanks @grumpy,

I just replaced Q68 and Q69 just in case that was the problem and put in a new 1.25A fuse, turned on the game and I manually tripped the bumper once and I watched the fuse burn up. I'll leave the burnt fuse installed since it's somewhat playable. Maybe I'll take out the bumper and rebuild it eventually.

I also just put in a new U51 to see if that helped the diagnostic problem, but it's still not working. I may pick up a new U14 and U36 someday to see if that helps with the diagnostics/audit thing.

Thanks everyone, and let me know if you have any suggestions.

#112 4 years ago

Ok Gang! Believe it or not, I got into the diagnostic/audit mode on my High Speed.

I remembered what DumbAss wrote about jumpering pins on 1J14, so I tried it again but nothing worked. So, while he mentioned the white and blue wires as 2 & 3 my pins were white and green, blue is on pin 4. Now I was concerned and confused which made me start all over with the diagnosis. I started with continuity from the switch on the door to the plug in the backbox which checked out good.

Mind you, I've had this pin for over 25 years and never had any problems other than a couple fuse replacements. Everything always worked, even the door switches. Then it sat ignored in a cold, damp garage in my former home for five years while I built a new home for our retirement. When we sold the house in August we needed to move the machines to our new home and that's when I realized that neglect is a bad thing. This thing has to work! You all know the rest of the story here.

So I decided to check the switches. I put on my DMM to the pins and pushed the black button a few times... nothing. Same test on the middle button...nothing. Then I tested the other side of both switches and they were fine! So I moved the wired to the other side of the switches, turned it on and got right into the setup/diag/audit mode.

I can play 5 balls!!!

The last thing that remains is the blowing fuse on the pop bumper, SOL-4. I'm looking into replacing the entire thing eventually but having the ramp in the way is probably going to make things more difficult. In the meantime I have a pretty nice playing machine again.

Thank-you everyone for your patience, suggestions and expertise. You are really appreciated here.
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#113 4 years ago

One more quick question regarding the pop bumper SOL-4...Should I replace some of the bumper parts, the switches or the entire thing?

Thanks again for all your help!

#114 4 years ago

Not a direct answer to your question, but definitely worth a read: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers

#115 4 years ago

Thanks @cjchand! Wow, just what I need! I was going to look at Youtube, but I will read the @vid1900 post first. Why didn't I think of that...Still learning!

#116 4 years ago

No problem.

Vid has Godlike status here - for good reason. He’s got really really helpful threads on all manner of restoration (Playfield, cab, waxing (yes, people debate how a Playfield should be waxed )).

Definitely seek out his wisdom, as his posts cover most anything related to pin maintenance or restoration.

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