Well, my BK2K and Rollergames both have dead magnet controllers. BK just locked its magnet on, resulting in a bad smell after power-off that had me worried until I realized the problem. Rollergames actually seems to have a dead short in the magnet as well, which blew a fuse and caused me a bunch of irritation until I found that problem.

Of course, RG's magnet itself will need replacing (B-13522 I believe?), but both games are going to need some work on the driver boards.

I have two choices:
- Replace the components on each game's High Current Power Driver board. Cheap, and a trivial board repair.
- Replace the boards entirely with this more robust version:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-system-11-high-current-driver-board.html

The replacement looks very enticing but (a) it's expensive and (b) I hate to be a throw-away consumer.

So I'd like to hear your input: Replace the boards, or the components? And if the components, has anyone messed with fitting the board with higher-current-rated components to extend its life?

In general, I try to do my own board repairs if at all possible. The last board I sent out for repair (around 2011 or so) came back with a capacitor installed backwards, with predictable results.

These boards, and the headers, look fine. Basically it's a choice of a couple bucks for new components, or $25+shipping each for higher-grade boards with more robust components.

But it sounds like the general consensus is to just buy the good boards! I suppose it's worth the extra money knowing it won't blow up my game in a few years.

The only thing is I'm not a big fan of the surface mount on the new model. Have heard a few things about SMD being less reliable in applications with high mechanical stress (like under a playfield). Out of curiosity, would there be a market for a through-hole version of the beefed-up driver board? I'd legit design one if so.

Well, then perhaps I will just order those, then. My concern about robustness was more directed towards the original component lineup, but I suppose a brand-new TIP36C might last a little longer than one nearly 30 years old.