What happens if you remove the rubber and trip the switch with your finger? Does it machine gun?
Quoted from Quench:BTW, the leaf against the rubber needs to be hard up against it (I don't mean touching, I mean pushing against the rubber), otherwise the rubber will tend to fling the leaf backwards (towards switch closure) on return.
This is absolutely correct. Remove the rubber, bend the outer leaves outward quite a bit, put the rubber back on. Adjust the gap with the inner leaves only. This way, when the sling activates, the outer blades will move outward with the rubber and will not vibrate against the inner blades.
Quoted from Quench:I don't have an early Stern machine handy at the moment, but a few Stern schematics I've looked at don't even show capacitors on the Pop Bumpers, yet some schems show caps on drop targets?? although the early solid state Stern manuals are a bit all over the place.
I haven't found any classic Sterns with caps on the pops. I can only assume that because they clocked at 2MHz they figured they would catch the switch closures. My QS, with clearcoated playfield, is so fast in the pops that I noticed it missed some switch closures. I added caps to my pops and they've been great ever since.
Quoted from aobrien5:Alright, so when the slings hit on this game it's supposed to switch between eye and pyramid. It's not always doing it now. It seems if the ball hits low on the sling, it'll fire, but not switch "modes." This is one of those things that may have always happened but was harder to tell because of the machine gunning.
When the caps were clipped and it didn't switch between eye and pyramid, did it score points? (Probably not.) I think the cure here may be to clip the caps, bend the outer leaves out and tighten the gap with the inner leaves. This will give longer switch closure time between the time the ball first makes contact with the rubber and the time it's pushed away by the arm.
Franklin, VA
