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(Topic ID: 274423)

LW3 Freezing mid game


By Yngbld

78 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 41 days ago by frunch
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 78 days ago

Hey guys;

Occasionally whilst in game play my pin just stops playing "locks up" and the dmd gets scrambled, after a manual reset everything is fine and all good to go, it has happened on a handful of a occasions usually after a ball drain. Any thoughts as to what might be causing this?

cheers

#2 77 days ago

update fuse 1 on the ppb board was blown replaced and blew again, so not sure as it GI related?, after a reset with blown fuse can pay a few minutes and then pin locks up again?

#3 77 days ago

Sounds like you have multiple problems here. Looking at the manual F1 is a general illumination fuse, so you'll need to figure out which gi string it controls and search it for short circuits etc.

The freezing-up problem is often caused by a bad/weak +5 volt supply to the MPU. One of the more common causes for that is worn out (sometimes leaking!) electrolytic caps on the power supply board. There's a few positioned very closely to the big heat sink on the power supply board, and they often tend to be bad by this stage in their life. I would start by replacing the caps at C1, C2, C3, and C7 and see where you stand. *Remember to install them with correct polarity!* The other larger caps may need to be replaced as well, but the smaller ones are much more likely to be bad. Here's the positions of the caps: 1289752336.png

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For further reference, here's the ratings of those electrolytic caps:

C1 1000uf/25v
C2 100uf/25v
C3 47uf/63v
C7 330uf/16v

Let us know how you fare. Good luck!

#4 76 days ago

Hi mate thank you for the detailed response I went through the manual myself today and found out that F1 takes care of the white/violet string of GI's and I think Ive found the short, as per your advise i ran my eyes over over the PS and yep C1 definitely has seen better days and i think c10 and 11 are also gone. So i've ordered some caps today and will look and replacing accordingly. Reading around C1 seems to be the main contender causing the lock up. Ill have a crack at replacing the caps over the next few days and see how I fare once its back in the cab, but will surely keep you posted thanks again for the help and detailed guidance its appreciated frunch

#5 76 days ago

You're welcome! Sounds like you're on the right track here, looking forward to seeing what you find.

It may be a bit of a pain replacing c1 if it's been leaking (might have corroded the pads), but you can always run a couple jumpers or something if necessary.

Good luck!

#6 76 days ago

Hope so By eye it doesn't look like it has leaked but is quite warped I have a de soldering station so hopefully it makes it a little easier!.. I also noticed that CN1 AND CN9 both have burn marks around their housing, will need to check continuity back to their respective points however will look to replace both headers and housing irrespective. Looking at the manual cn1 is connected directly to the transformer and CN9 seems to be associated with 6.3 vac haven't delved into tracing it back yet, however I assume cn9 goes through the transformer possibly via the BR, I tested the BR on the PS and it was fine (just more out of curiosity), so i am wondering maybe it some how links in the GI CAP issues?. I'm still trying to get more of an understanding as to the roles of CN9/1 re their power distribution (might be totally off with cn9 just guesstimating!) any ideas by chance as to what has caused these connectors to heat up and their roles and maybe is my assumption is linked frunch

#7 76 days ago

Looks like the 6.3vac comes directly from the transformer into the power supply board at CN9, the 4 wire connector soldered to the board like this:

IMG_20200804_120941.jpg

The 6.3vac then appears to go out CN8 to 4 separate GI strings that utilize fuses 1-4. I would definitely re-pin any burned connectors. Want to put up a few pics so we can get a better look at what you've got? Regardless, definitely replace any burned headers and female connectors as needed. That might be the solution for the gi problem if they're that toasty and everything else checks out. Here's a few snips from the schematics. I'll admit, data east schematics can be difficult to follow, quite a bit of jumping around to trace certain circuits.

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#8 74 days ago

Once again thank you for the detailed effort with pics explanation and so forth frunch. I had a look at the PS more thoroughly yesterday and have attached some pictures as per request, as you cab see CN1 is definitely gone. All this damage looks to be an issue dating back from a previous owner as they have attempted to re work the board you can see pin 12 is from CN1 is totally gone and has been soldering at the rear of the pin with a respective molex back to the transformer. As per the above schematics identified (i agree DE seems to be a little all over the shop but above efforts made total sense now!) i can see how CN9 talks to CN8 and again previous owner had reworked the rear of cn8 so the over heating has been a drama with this cabinet previously.

As suspected I think Ive found the GI short on the PF a bulb had popped out and the million to one shot a screw found its way to the back corner of the pf and I assume shorted out the lamp holder as they were clearly touching, joys!. I also ordered a CN1 total replacement kit and picked up caps last night. I have also located a replacement molex for cn9 it is a little toasty but again looks to be from a previous incident, so once CN1 arrives i spend the time accordingly to replace all of the above

See pics where Cap C1 is warped ill look to replace C 1,2,3,10,11 for piece of mind. Thank you again for the help makes it easier when wisdom is supplied!

Will keep you apprised once Ive completed the above in due course.

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#9 74 days ago

Good work! Sounds like you've got quite a bit of the problem figured out. I'm eager to see how it goes! Keep me posted

1 month later
#10 44 days ago

frunch Hi mate finally can come back to you with an update!. CN1 replacement and said caps arrived a few weeks back, I manged to get that sorted, had to jumper/stitch respective pins to components as annular rings were three parts toast under the original connector, took some time to study the board and to trace back points, i also learnt that the manual and board differ from each other with respect to pins 7 and 9 both are opposite outputs in case you tackle this problem down the line yourself. Once I got the board back in the cab i solely connected CN1 and all fuses were fine none blew so i seemed to be on the right track, for security I was testing output voltages on CN5 to check my work +5volts was fine and whilst navigating to 12volts bang somehow I shorted possibly one of the high voltage lines, I look to have touched one of the pins along the line with my probes and i assume grounded one as i saw a spark and f7 was gone if that is possible? I replaced f7 and immediately blew again!, so went back to the board and traced CN5 respective points and looks like i've done some damage to a few components! along the 68,-98,-110 lines. Always learning and now confident enough to now tackle this new issue, ill look to replace all cooked components, I would of wished to have everything sorted and have reported we were back on track, however to date i can say i have enjoyed the time to study and gain the knowledge/confidence to now take this problem on. A big first drama to tackle so i guess if i can master this im on the way!. Thanks again for your help and advice and i hope to come back with a 100 fix report down the road and incorporate more stability when holding my DMM!!!.

#11 43 days ago

That's progress! Shame about the accident you had with the probe causing F7 to blow. You may want to consider getting some additional adapters and test leads for your meter, they can help in situations like this where you want to measure voltages extra carefully. Here's a set that looks decent: amazon.com link »

Thanks for the update! Good luck moving forward, and ask any questions you run into along the way. You'll get this fixed!

#12 43 days ago

Thanks for the suggestion i think the alligator type clips will do the trick, im still sort of lost on how i buggered up, i assume now the more i think about it having the negative probe on the ground i guess i had to have touched one of the negative fed lines, but giving that the 68v line also incurred some component damage, i guess my question on this is, did i have had to have touched the negative line in order to cause this damage, probably a simple enough answer but i guess i'm wanting to get the logic behind what i did. By memory i hadn't set the DMM to a higher DC output reading range so maybe it could of attributed to this and possibly touching the 68 volt line might of caused the damage?. Looking at the schematics and probing i have continuity with G and pin 3 -(110vdc) on CN5 which runs into the output of VR1 which doesn't appear to have a short (more an fyi) across any pins, (i haven't run a voltage test across it yet to test 100% but F4 didn't pop so i assume or VR1 is safe). Given this info any thoughts on working back what i actually touched and how this happened im all ears and also for clarity, what the ground pin on CN5 does i assume gives the negative to the 110v, once again thank you for the constant help and consideration frunch

#13 42 days ago

It's hard to say exactly what happened, could you post some pics of the damaged areas/components?

Where exactly were the meter probes when you saw the spark and F7 blew? Is there a burn mark on the board where the probe was when it happened?

It's possible a probe was touching two different circuits simultaneously, shorting them together for a moment (and blowing the fuse in result). Perhaps a probe had connected the 68vdc to a lower voltage circuit or to ground...hard to say what happened, exactly.

The meter settings wouldn't have caused it. If the range was set too low, it simply won't give a reading or may say OL or something like that.

I'll take another look at the schematic and see what may have gotten damaged.

#14 42 days ago

Okie dok, It was the slightest spark no burn marks on the board and all components seem visually intact. I had the probe on CN5 ground pin and was navigating left with my positive lead I managed to get just the +5v reading and that's about it. I think your suggestion makes sense I've touched something too close across these circuits and as a result bang.

These are the components that got taken out, all were on the 68,-98 and -110 lines, so looking at schematics running down the -98 line first hit was TR6 D10,D9 and TR3 (but i assume the 68vdc took TR3) they all registered as shorts.

-110 took out TR4, D11 and R10 is also out, again all shorts and on the 68v as mentioned above TR3 and R11 are both out. I haven't looked at caps c12,13 or 16, not sure if they'd also be gone again visually they don't look cooked R16 is also below tolerance 1.5k im getting sub 1.2k so could just be a little old, all else apart for said caps in question seem to be intact. Ive left the 12volt line alone as mentioned the VR seems to be intact ill run some voltages across to confirm but continuity didn't show any contact between the legs. To the best of my ability all else seems to be within their relevant range levels.

In relation to pictures happy to upload ill take a few on the mobile and get them across some stage tomorrow for you to peruse if you still like once you've compared notes, hope this clarifies a little but again your above suggestion makes sense obviously somehow Ive grounded a line and taken out the above 3. frunch

#15 41 days ago

Sounds like you're on the right track so far. I'd start by replacing any components that measure bad, and then see where you stand. You will have to measure voltages to test your work, of course--so I'd probably recommend getting some test lead adapters to make it safer and easier to do your tests.

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