(Topic ID: 70954)

Lubrication


By CharlestonSCPins

6 years ago



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  • 56 posts
  • 25 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by gweempose
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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    There are 56 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 6 years ago

    I know, NO LUBRICATION of pinball parts! Well - most of the time. The Williams manual says that the ball kicker in picture should be lubed at two points and they show the two points but they don't say what type of lubricant to use. So which one is best folks? I have teflon grease, multi-purpose oil, gun oil, etc etc. Thanks a lot. I am leaning towards the teflon grease.

    Al

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    #2 6 years ago

    I have been thinking of using this type, dry lube on my machines. http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/non_stick_dry_film.html

    Since it leaves no wet residue, it could be used on plungers and all moving points, no?

    Another option would be graphite powder. Sold in hobby shops for pinewood derby cars and in the door lock area of your local hardware or home center.

    #3 6 years ago

    i would say multi purpose oil as long as it is not too thin

    #4 6 years ago

    Teflon gel. No fire hazard, won't dry out and cake, non-conductive, lasts a long time. Use sparingly.

    #5 6 years ago
    Quoted from smokey_789:

    Teflon gel. No fire hazard, won't dry out and cake, non-conductive, lasts a long time. Use sparingly.

    With the grease, one will have to disassemble to get to the lubrication points. Grease or gel is too thick to have any wicking properties. Which of course is fine to do

    #6 6 years ago

    a single drop of 3 on those pivots is what I use and then manually exercise it in. Wipe off excess and it's good for 5 years or more

    #7 6 years ago

    Agreed, but he didn't give enough info as to the current condition of the part. If it is locked up now, then he will have to disassemble it anyway.

    #8 6 years ago

    A dab of Mobil-1 or your favorite synthetic grease works wonders for mechanical pivot points.

    #9 6 years ago

    I only use Teflon grease if I lubricate anything on a pin.

    #10 6 years ago

    Try graphite powder first. There is a reason that you should never use any type of oil or grease on a pinball machine.

    #11 6 years ago

    i like silicone.

    #12 6 years ago

    first, disassemble and clean... that is always step one...

    then use this stuff on pivot points... note that despite many automatically responding "you should never lubricate a pinball machine", there are indeed many places that should be lubricated...

    image-877.jpg

    #13 6 years ago

    First, hi! Nice to see another charleston area person!

    I use either 3-in-1 oil or after-run oil for model airplane engines.

    #14 6 years ago
    Quoted from Schwaggs:

    Since it leaves no wet residue, it could be used on plungers and all moving points, no?

    There are some (few) points in pinball machine where lubrication might make sense, but why would you want to lube a plunger? The only reason you might have problems with a plunger would either be a (heat-) deformed coil sleeve which needs to be changed anyway or if it has been lubed in the past and has gotten sticky.

    #15 6 years ago
    Quoted from ccotenj:

    first, disassemble and clean... that is always step one...
    then use this stuff on pivot points... note that despite many automatically responding "you should never lubricate a pinball machine", there are indeed many places that should be lubricated...

    image-877.jpg 26 KB

    Agreed. Super lube is good, I get it from work for free. But there is another I get from work for free and it is my go to lube for pinball machines. It is called Tri-Flow. It is a lightweight oil with Teflon. Works great on spinners. Comes with a tiny diameter straw to put a small amount exactly where you want it!

    #16 6 years ago

    I like using this: because its twice as good. 6-1.

    99020-Bel-Ray-6-in-1-Group.png

    Bel-Ray® 6 in 1 is a multi-purpose aerosol lubricant that contains anti-wear additives that provide high film strength to this exceptional penetrating and lubricating fluid. Bel-Ray 6 in 1 cleans as it lubricates, protects against rust and corrosion, displaces water, and reduces friction. Bel-Ray 6 in 1 will not harm electrical contacts, vinyl, wood or paint.

    #17 6 years ago
    Quoted from LOTR_breath:

    Agreed. Super lube is good, I get it from work for free. But there is another I get from work for free and it is my go to lube for pinball machines. It is called Tri-Flow. It is a lightweight oil with Teflon. Works great on spinners. Comes with a tiny diameter straw to put a small amount exactly where you want it!

    There is an added bonus with Tri-Flow. It smells nice! Like bananas.

    I prefer SuperLube Gel for loaded pivot points like stepper units in EM and kickers like the OP has. There is a Superlube Aerosol too. Very good for the initial soak of gummed up parts and also like you use Tri-Flow, I use the tiny straw to put it just where I want it. It goes on thinner than Tri-Flow but lubricates just as well IMO.

    I use Tri-Flow a lot but not in pinball machines. I feel like it is thicker and leaves more of a residue. I use it on bicycle chains, door hinges, paddlocks, door latches, etc... I can hit those things really hard and then wipe off the extra.

    #18 6 years ago
    Quoted from ccotenj:

    first, disassemble and clean... that is always step one...
    then use this stuff on pivot points... note that despite many automatically responding "you should never lubricate a pinball machine", there are indeed many places that should be lubricated...

    image-877.jpg 26 KB

    This stuff is awesome.

    #19 6 years ago
    Quoted from BigB:

    Try graphite powder first. There is a reason that you should never use any type of oil or grease on a pinball machine.

    In a recent conversation with a locksmith, he said that graphite gums things up over time too. He hates when he opens a lock and finds it crammed full of "blow in" graphite.

    So, there you have it. The opinion of one guy who you don't know relayed second hand through another guy you don't know. Pretty legit I think.

    #20 6 years ago
    Quoted from Schwaggs:

    I have been thinking of using this type, dry lube on my machines. http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/non_stick_dry_film.html
    Since it leaves no wet residue, it could be used on plungers and all moving points, no?
    Another option would be graphite powder. Sold in hobby shops for pinewood derby cars and in the door lock area of your local hardware or home center.

    while there are many spots on a pin that should be lubed, plungers are definitely NOT one of them...

    they do fall under the "first step" though which is "disassemble and clean"...

    that "first step" should rarely, if ever, be bypassed when working on an em (or ss, ftm)... grunge is the number 1 cause of "it don't work"...

    #21 6 years ago
    Quoted from Pafasa:

    There is an added bonus with Tri-Flow. It smells nice! Like bananas.
    I prefer SuperLube Gel for loaded pivot points like stepper units in EM and kickers like the OP has. There is a Superlube Aerosol too.

    mmm... bananas!

    yea, the aerosol is handy stuff too, pin-it turned me on to that... used it on every door in the house as well, no more "ghosts in the middle of the night"...

    #22 6 years ago

    Wow! Awesome response and advice from everyone!! Thanks so much. This is why I just love this group. Helpful and the simplest question leads to discussion with so much more information.

    Wolfmarsh maybe we can get together some time and talk pinball!

    Anyway, my part (ball kicker) was pretty gummed up so I removed it and put it in my Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner (tip from another pinsider!) and that cleaned it up nicely. I pulled the retaining pin and pulled the shaft out and lightly lubricated it with Super Lube (another pinsider tip!) put it back and all is right with the world! Got a long way to go to finish the machine, a Pinbot, that was incredibly dirty and has some water damage.

    Thanks again everyone and best wishes for a happy Thanksgiving. I am thankful for all the help from my fellow Pinsiders!

    Al

    #23 6 years ago
    Quoted from ccotenj:

    first, disassemble and clean... that is always step one...
    then use this stuff on pivot points... note that despite many automatically responding "you should never lubricate a pinball machine", there are indeed many places that should be lubricated...

    image-877.jpg 26 KB

    Is it better to use the tube or the aerosol ? Or it doesn't make any difference ?
    I'm thinking about lubricating the 2 rods of my Johnny Mnemonic hand mechanism, do I need to spray the lube along the rods or simply put some grease in the 2 X and Y nuts ?

    #24 6 years ago
    Quoted from someoneelse:

    There are some (few) points in pinball machine where lubrication might make sense, but why would you want to lube a plunger? The only reason you might have problems with a plunger would either be a (heat-) deformed coil sleeve which needs to be changed anyway or if it has been lubed in the past and has gotten sticky.

    The coil sleeve, in some sense IS the lubrication. Nylon parts (washers, etc) on mechanical devices are usually no lubrication parts, where direct metal parts usually require the lubrication. Thin oils, WD-40 etc.. should be avoided as they attract dirt and tend to get where they shouldn't over time. Good quality synthetic or molytone grease stays where you put it and lasts a long time. Grease only where the manufacturer recommends it and everything will be fine.

    #25 6 years ago
    Quoted from Leo13:

    Is it better to use the tube or the aerosol ? Or it doesn't make any difference ?
    I'm thinking about lubricating the 2 rods of my Johnny Mnemonic hand mechanism, do I need to spray the lube along the rods or simply put some grease in the 2 X and Y nuts ?

    I would use the Superlube gel in your case

    #26 6 years ago

    I use WD-40. Ha! Not on pivot points, but it does work wonders on rusty leg levelers and cabinet locks.

    #27 6 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    I use WD-40. Ha! Not on pivot points, but it does work wonders on rusty leg levelers and cabinet locks.

    breaking rust is what it was designed for

    #28 6 years ago

    What should I use on a playfield spinner? I know some folks have lubed their spinner to make them spin better, but don't know what to use.

    #29 6 years ago

    supe

    Quoted from tbanthony:What should I use on a playfield spinner? I know some folks have lubed their spinner to make them spin better, but don't know what to use.

    superlube in the pen dispenser is perfect for this. look at pinrestore.com for it. don't even use a drop just get a small bubble or it at the top of hte pen and touch it to the wire/bracket joint. Spinners will fly!

    #30 6 years ago
    Quoted from Pafasa:

    breaking rust is what it was designed for

    Actually displacing water is what it was designed for.

    Yes, I know, I ended that in a preposition. I can't be a WD-40 stickler and an English stickler at the same time.

    #31 6 years ago
    Quoted from dkpinball:

    Actually displacing water is what it was designed for.
    Yes, I know, I ended that in a preposition. I can't be a WD-40 stickler and an English stickler at the same time.

    You are right. After I posted that, I went to the ole internet thing and looked it up. WD-40 = Water Displacement perfected on the 40th version of the formula.

    Thanks for the English (actually more of a grammar) lesson too. That is something I have not thought of.

    #32 6 years ago
    Quoted from CharlestonSCPins:

    Wolfmarsh maybe we can get together some time and talk pinball!

    Cool. Kneissl (spelling?) just moved here to the area also. I'd have a big get together but I only have 3 machines at the moment... Kinda underwhelming.

    #33 6 years ago
    Quoted from tbanthony:

    What should I use on a playfield spinner? I know some folks have lubed their spinner to make them spin better, but don't know what to use.

    i use a small amount of white lithium grease, stays where you put it.

    #34 6 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    I use WD-40. Ha! Not on pivot points, but it does work wonders on rusty leg levelers and cabinet locks.

    Use a penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench, it will do a better job and last longer.

    #35 6 years ago
    Quoted from wayout440:

    i use a small amount of white lithium grease,

    My experience with white grease is that it dries up and turns chalky.

    #36 6 years ago
    Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

    Cool. Kneissl (spelling?) just moved here to the area also. I'd have a big get together but I only have 3 machines at the moment... Kinda underwhelming.

    Then have a small get together!

    #37 6 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    My experience with white grease is that it dries up and turns chalky.

    Over how much time on a pinball machine? I could see this on a vehicle, or something with high temps, but most high quality white lithiums are very wide range products, that work in freezing, heat and are pretty durable. Average lifespan should be around 2 years or so depending on the quality of the product. I've used WD-40 on stuff and it barely last weeks - but I've used marine quality on my boat and it never dried up. I'm using molytone grease now on the pins since I had it lying around and it works very well.

    #38 6 years ago
    Quoted from wayout440:

    Over how much time on a pinball machine? I could see this on a vehicle, or something with high temps, but most high quality white lithiums are very wide range products,

    I've never used it on a pinball machine, but every where there are signs that it had been used on vehicles I have worked on, from brake calipers (hot) to door latches (not so hot) it leaves a dried up mess. I have a couple different greases that I have been using on pins that work well. PB grease from PBresource works great on most applications, including electrical contacts on EM stepper units. I also have some old bearing grease (the thick stuff) that I use in motor gearboxes when I have those apart.

    #39 6 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    I've never used it on a pinball machine, but every where there are signs that it had been used on vehicles I have worked on, from brake calipers (hot) to door latches (not so hot) it leaves a dried up mess. I have a couple different greases that I have been using on pins that work well. PB grease from PBresource works great on most applications, including electrical contacts on EM stepper units. I also have some old bearing grease (the thick stuff) that I use in motor gearboxes when I have those apart.

    OK...sounds like you have used the lithium grease more than I. Actually I meant Teflon now that I think about it.

    The molytone stuff I am using now may be the best stuff yet. I have a very small container of it that I have been using on model railroad engines and it is over 2 decades old.

    #40 6 years ago
    Quoted from wayout440:

    OK...sounds like you have used the lithium grease more than I.

    I have actually used that white grease as little as possible since a break job I did with it came back to bite me in the ass back in the 80s. Our boss told us it was the best product for the job. People still use it though. I have a tub of that stuff that I haven't opened for years.

    #41 6 years ago

    This stuff is great on spinners

    securedownload.jpg
    #42 6 years ago
    Quoted from Pafasa:

    breaking rust is what it was designed for

    I though it was for these two>> Interesting Uses for WD-40.

    Two of the craziest purposes for WD-40 include a bus driver in Asia who used WD-40 to remove a python snake which had coiled itself around the undercarriage of his bus, and police officers who used WD-40 to remove a naked burglar trapped in an air conditioning vent.

    #43 6 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    I have actually used that white grease as little as possible since a break job I did with it came back to bite me in the ass back in the 80s.

    That ^^and the red tacky brake pad aerosol that they recommended back then.
    Sil-glyde / high temp silicone grease has been pretty decent.

    #44 6 years ago
    Quoted from Pin-it:

    the red tacky brake pad aerosol

    Oh, that crap leaves a mess.

    #45 6 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    Oh, that crap leaves a mess.

    Lucky the pads they make today have that noise isolating material ,probably not needed >but i still put a thin smear of sil-glyde at the contact points and caliper pins. A little anti-seize on the pins threads too.

    #46 6 years ago
    Quoted from Pin-it:

    A little anti-seize

    Bah! That s#it is almost as bad as the white grease. When it dries up it turns to metal like dust!

    #47 6 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    When it dries up it turns to metal like dust!

    It does^^ but it keeps the corrosion down a bit. Road Salt in the winter corrodes the snot out of them.That and the brake/fuel lines take a beating too.

    #48 6 years ago

    Oh yeah. I have never actually encountered road salt personally, but I have worked on cars that did. Back in they day when they were heading to Ca. in droves. I did get a car from Wisconsin today however. Sometimes I get them from Hawaii. That must be an interesting drive.

    #49 6 years ago

    Super Lube, I put that sh*% on everythingimage.jpg

    #50 6 years ago

    Perhaps one of the best lubricants ever.
    th-2-835.jpeg

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