Seriously? Does your landlord have his ear against the wall listening to what your up to? I think you need to find a new place and tell him to get bent!

Install a headphone jack?

Reduce the power to the speaker 50%, drop sound 3db. At some point the noise of the mechanical parts will be louder. The "ding" being a problem rather than the low Hz sound seems unusual. The only complaint I get is when Earthshaker kicks in and wakes up the wife.

U r being way too nice as a neighbor. Church bells and honking horns have been deemed acceptable levels by the US Supreme Court, so if I were you, I would not worry about a fix.

DCS uses two TDA2030A amplifiers: one drives the backbox speakers which are wired in parallel, and one drives the cab speaker.

Probably the easiest thing to do is wire the backbox in series instead of parallel (might want to remove the high-pass capacitor at the tweeter if it has one) and add your 10W resistor in series at the cabinet speaker.

You can also add an L-Pad to the series-wired backbox speakers for variable control.

Disconnect one wire from the cabinet speaker. Wire in a switch that you can access inside the coin door. Wire from the wire to the lug on the speaker. Open coin door, open the switch, turn on game and wait for it to boot, close switch, close coin door, open beer.

True, maybe just the cab speaker is the culprit as it's firing down at her.

Maybe just an L-Pad at the cab speaker, so you can tune it until she doesn't complain and then you can just leave it at that setting.

A time delay relay in line with the speakers could be automatic and cheap to add. Is it safe to make the speaker connections while the amp is already powered on?

It's difficult to follow your description: there's two backbox speakers and one cabinet speaker. Don't know what you mean by "re-wire the main speakers in stereo".

Those amps can put out way more than 2 watts. You should use 15-watt L-Pad.

If you change the backbox to series, you don't want a stereo L-Pad to control cabinet and backbox together (I think that's what you meant?) because the balance will be messed up.

For your particular case, just an L-pad or resistor at the cab might suffice. You could change the backbox to series which would reduce its relative volume if you want too.

If you don't want to change the wiring, you could use a stereo L-Pad for the backbox and a mono for the Cabinet speaker and have full volume and balance control.

Most people who customize the audio on DCS put coaxial speakers in the backbox in series, controlled by an L-Pad and leave the cab circuit alone (or add low-pass filter). This way you can use the L-pad for balance control and digital control for volume. The most common purpose is to use the L-pad to tone down the backbox so you can up the digital volume to get more bass from the cab speaker. Since you probably want the opposite, makes more sense to put the L-pad at the cab speaker to tone it down relative to backbox.

The initial ding?? Do you have like 20 of them packed up there? I don’t know how one would notice a single bong when turning on the game. My WPC game actually has the quietest bong between all my games. Though I do know some of them can be louder.

Just like a CB radio.
Please send 10 dollars to me for the idea.

He complains about the "ding" but not the game itself? I would tell him/her/it to go pound sand. Hell, the speaker 'pop' should be louder than that.

You can always place a piece of foam padding, a cat/dog bed, or a few empty boxes on the floor under the game if you think this the issue.