I'd imagine it's bad GI pin on your board. Take a look at the GI plug and see if anything is crispy and burnt. You csn also look in the manual and see which pin provides power to those bulbs. Very very common issue

Check fuses first.

If GI connector is burned, you need a new connector and pins on the board.

LTG : )

What game ?

What is the orange wire nut mess ?

LTG : )

They may not be causing your issue, but someone apparently didn't know how to solder and used those orange twist connectors in a repair attempt.

Sure so someone already re pinned, or at least reconnectored (sp) one area.

So test that pin for juice, or If you have some alligator clips hook the working GI pin to the lower string and see if they light

Is there a relay on the back side of the insert board so the game can flash the GI strings? If so remove the relay and look for cracked header pins on the back of the relay board.

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I was going to say to check this out. Just looked at a game for a buddy with the same problem. The pins and connector on his were burnt to a crisp. I just repinned it and a new connector and it took care of it.

Helps if you have clip one side and point on the other. Take connector off, clip one side to a working pin (the upper GI), then stick the other end into the lower GI connector.
Or other end to the beginning of the GI string.

Looks like a zero ohm resistor, like the one next to it. They are jumpers that a machine can put in because a machine can't grab wire.

LTG : )

If that jumper is underneath across it's two leads, no.

LTG : )

I have an IJ Williams and I've been having the same issue. Lower back box lights are all out. I just replaced my Power Driver board last week with a brand spanking new Rottendog Power Driver board and the same issue still exists. Obviously the board is perfect and the connector appears to be good too.

Now I'm thinking there must be a short in the wires that lead to the lower back box lights from the Power Driver board. I'm gonna move some pins around on the connector to check and see if I can get the lower lights to operate. If that doesn't work then I'm going to rewire the lower back box lights.

I thought the new board would have fixed this but I was wrong.

QSS

Is there another relay under the playfield you could swap into the backbox to rule that out?

Assuming it works, I wouldn't sweat it, I have seen a lot of those need repinned and/or with a jumper, not uncommon really at least in my experience. I was missing one from a Taxi entirely and bought it from @knazzo on here - great seller.

Get yourself two sets of alligator clips and a 9v battery. With game off, hook the clips to the battery terminals, hook the other two ends of the clips to the first socket on the string. Do the lights light? If they dont, reverse the clips on the light socket, do they light now? If they do, your issue is before the lights, if they don’t, you have a short or break in the string somewhere along the sockets.

HaHa. Too funny. Yup new stuff never fails prematurely or arrives bad.

Have you checked anything ?

Grab a meter. AC getting to driver board ? AC getting off board to bulb sockets ? Try and find where it stops and the fix gets easier.

Could be burned transformer connector, a break for power to board, board, or if power leaving board then check for breaks in wiring to sockets, sockets, bubls good ?

Narrow down your search. You'll be glad you did.

LTG : )

Have a look at the GI lights that are out. There will be a colour coded wire that connects at one point that feeds all of them. Then look on the above connector at the PSU to see which pin that colour connects to. Re-Solder the pin and make sure the wire is properly seated/connected on the connector. Should solve it.

Will get on that this weekend. Dragging my meter out and doing 2 minutes of diagnostics really cuts into my "lazy ass" time.

QSS

The problem with GI voltage on those interconnect boards is almost ALWAYS in THIS order:
-A connector pin in the harness -->check for continuity with meter-
-A pin on the PCB board -->check for continuity with meter-
-A trace on the TOP of the board is broken between the PIN and the trace (the PARTS side) -->check for continuity with meter
-A trace on the BOTTOM of the board (solder side)

You can determine where the break in current flow is with the everything still in the game.

To check for continuity between pins and traces, you will want to scratch away some of the green on the top of the board to get to the traces.

If you suspect it might be a connector issue, you can do the 9v battery test with it or test for continuity with a meter. Game off, Insert a wire into the connector for the correct pin, use you alligator clips and clip one end to the other end of the jumper wire and other clip gets connected to the game’s ground braid. If the lights come on with the battery, your connector and wiring are good and you now know you have a board issue.

Yes. Repin that whole connector. Also, what is that bare copper wire?!?!

Wait you said you got it to work when you tapped the back of the connector and not the hole?

Ah, sorry I misread. Pull the driver board and start tracing for continuity. Something is broken somewhere. You proved it’s not wiring.

Ok LLoyd, I took your advice. Please read below regarding my situation and maybe it will help the original poster as well.

I have an Indiana Jones Williams. I just replace the original Power Driver Board as well as the Fliptronics Board with New Rotten Dog Boards.

With the new Rottendog Power Drive Board everything works on the game except the lower back box lights. Strange thing is, on my old original Power Driver board the lower back box lights also did not work.

Here's what I have done to try and locate the issue:
- I have confirm the lower backbox string of lights is working via a 9 volt battery test. All lights light up so we know it's not an issue with the string of lights.
- I have confirmed that there is power coming in through J115 at the #5 pin and the #10 pin. I have metered the back of the J115 connector as well as on the front of the J115 connector and I have power on both the front and rear of the connector.
- I have confirmed the F107 fuse is good which feeds the J120-5 and J120-10 pins.

There is no power coming from J120-5 and J120-10 (Green String). There is power to all other strings on J120 and J121. The Yellow, Orange, Brown and Violet strings all have power and all strings work as expected.

The only thing I can think of is there is an issue with the Q16 on the new Rottendog Board. How do I actually test Q16 to see it the problem is truely there?

What I find very odd is that the same issue existed on my old original board. How could you have the same issue on two boards made 25 years apart?

Could there be an issue with the power coming off the transformer somehow overloading only Q16 and causing it to fail or is this just a case of unusual coincidence?

Any additional help would be appreciated. Thanks.

QSS

The problem has to be one of the connector pins in the J115 harness right?

QSS

Sounds like. I'd take a break to clear my mind. Then measure AC power to driver board, and off. See if problem lies before board, on board, or off.

LTG : )