(Topic ID: 315085)

LOUD Buzz from WPC game on start-up

By Cheeks

1 year ago


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#1 1 year ago

I just bought a Johnny Mnemonic, and now it doesn't really work.

The first issue is that as soon as you flip the power switch, all 3 speakers have a FULL volume buzz. I've tried reseating everything on the sound board, but that didn't change anything. The seller assures me it did not do this when he had it.

One thing of note: the game was shipped on the legs, and had a bunch of "stuff" inside the cabinet. I didn't know there were loose parts inside, so when I took off the legs and flipped the game up to move it (still wrapped) all sorts of crap cascaded down through the cabinet.

Once I set it back up I searched the bottom of the cabinet and gathered what I think are all the pieces, but I can't swear there isn't a stray somewhere (in case that could be causing the issue).

Obviously when I disconnect the speakers from the sound board, I can boot up without the buzzing, but where do I go trying to trouble-shoot where the buzzing is coming from?

Thanks for any help!

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

JM has a DCS sound board.
While I can't say with certainty what the issue is, I have seen this exact same thing happen when one or both of the big filter caps on the DCS board develop cold solder joints.
With your meter, you should be able to buzz for continuity between the closest together leads of the two caps and between the furthest apart leads of the two caps. If continuity isn't there, you can stopgap the issue by installing a jumper.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately there is continuity between the inners and the outers.

Any other suggestions on where to look?

#5 1 year ago

Unfortunately F116 checks out fine.

The game supposedly worked flawlessly when it left. Assuming that's true, it's something that happened during shipping that changed, because I had this issue from the first time I booted the game.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

JM has a DCS sound board.
While I can't say with certainty what the issue is, I have seen this exact same thing happen when one or both of the big filter caps on the DCS board develop cold solder joints.
With your meter, you should be able to buzz for continuity between the closest together leads of the two caps and between the furthest apart leads of the two caps. If continuity isn't there, you can stopgap the issue by installing a jumper.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

OK, I'm an idiot. When I flipped the board over to test continuity, the lugs I tested were actually from the heatsinks - DOH!

So, now that I'm testing the caps...

I referred to the wiki and tested continuity from the ground pin (7) at the connector to the "inner" pin of the bottom cap. I get continuity here. But I do not get it between the inner lugs OR the outer lugs.

Using some alligator clip wires, I created temporary jumpers from inner to inner and from outer to outer. Then when I booted up the game, the buzz was gone, but there was no sound at all. No bong, and no sounds once a game was started.

Upon visual inspection, I don't see any cold solder joints on the caps. Given that and the no sound behavior with the jumpers, any thoughts?

Thanks again for the help.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

If you remove your jumpers, does the loud hum return?

You're good. For whatever reason the hum is gone, even with both jumpers removed. However, the sound is also still not there.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from tommy_pinball:

That would be because when you put a jumper across the two "outer pins" of the filter capacitors you essentially shorted the +V and -V DC Power Rails together. Bad things will happen. If you check fuses F501 & F502 on the Sound Board you will probably find one or both of them blown.

You're right, both fuses were blown.

I removed the jumpers, replaced the fuses, and tested. No buzz, no bong, no sound.

I retested the fuses to make sure I didn't damage something that continued to blow them, and they were both fine.

I then jumpered only the inner leads of the caps. Same as without the jumper - no buzz, no bong, no sound.

So, somehow the buzz has gone away, but the sound still has not come back.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

With your meter, you should be able to buzz for continuity between the closest together leads of the two caps and between the furthest apart leads of the two caps. If continuity isn't there, you can stopgap the issue by installing a jumper.

I'll check for voltages, but for the price I've been quote to repair a sound board in the past, I might as well look into a Pinsound upgrade.

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