(Topic ID: 65687)

Lotr ring shot help

By hassanchop

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 29 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by hlaj78
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

#1 10 years ago

I searched the forum and didn't find an answer for the problem i am having.
Have the machine for weeks now and the magnet/ring shot worked fine all this time.
One week ago it started to not register the shot so the magnet doesn't activate. For example, if i have ring mode lit, the first 3 or 4 shots the ball or falls to the pf or goes straight through the ring to the back then to the path. The magnet doesn't fire. There are sometimes that works, but rarely.
In the switch test everything works: the spinner, the optos in the ring and the back switch.
The magnet also works fine in the coil test.

So, everything passes the tests but in the game it doesn't work properly, where do i start?
Anyone had this same problem? Any suggestions?

thnks in advance

#2 10 years ago

Are u sure your spinner switch is working 100% via ball activation?

#3 10 years ago

Is there a test for the magnet?? I never understood what the magnet was supposed to do. Maybe mine doesn't work either??

#4 10 years ago

There is a fuse for the magnet..... may be it is toast.
I am pretty sure you can increase the fuse rating a little....

#5 10 years ago

Mine was doing the same thing for awhile. The switch worked in test mode if I manually rotated the spinner. The problem was the hole in the ramp was worn slightly. This allowed too much play in the spinner. The ball would not make up the switch when rolling it through the spinner.

#6 10 years ago

Check the fuse. Mine blows frequently.

I need to find out how high we can safely go. I think it's 4amp.

#7 10 years ago

Ok so i got a few new things to check
One question: Does the magnet coil supposed to fire when the spinner switch is activated?

I think i checked that with the machine on and it didn't. I thought it wasn't supposed to fire. Can't remember. Will check that also today.

#8 10 years ago

That fuse is known to blow.
Pretty sure the spinner always activates the magnet.

#9 10 years ago

That fuse is F20 -- a 4A 250v Slow Blow. If it keeps blowing you can replace it with a 5A. Once I put a 5A in there I no longer had any problems. I also set my game to 2 ball DTR (where the ring magnet does NOT hold the first ball) to prevent wear and tear on the magnet.

Your spinner should be activating the magnet every time along with a flasher inside the Ring. I had the game for 7 months before I knew there was a burnt out flasher back there. Having that flasher working is an awesome effect!

There is a Ring Magnet Test in the LOTR Tests sub-menu of the diagnostics -- allowing you to test the Ring Made (OPTO), Back Trough, Spinner and Ring Magnet - check page 27 of your manual for a very thorough explanation of how the spinner, ring switch and magnet are supposed to work.

EDIT: as pointed out by Gweempose, I had it backwards. Mine is set to 1 ball, not 2 ball. On 2 ball, the first shot gets held in the magnet and you use the 2nd ball to knock the first ball out.

#10 10 years ago

I have to learn what the heck this 2 ball DTR is. I'm sure it's just as the name implies. I guess this is how people get ridiculously fast DTR times. I'm still sitting at 46 seconds for my fastest ... and people have reported ~11seconds. Crazy.

Anyhoo - S37VEN, do we know 5A is safe for the magnet? I'm thinking 4.5A first, but what do I know... (BTW, hey neighbor!)

#11 10 years ago

Ever since the original 4amp fuse blew, I've used a slow blow 5 from radio shack. Never had a problem since. But the ring flasher, that's a different problem. That is constantly going.

#12 10 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

people have reported ~11seconds. Crazy.

That should be if you get all the 4 shots and then the 2 shots to the ring at the first try on the fly...

#13 10 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Anyhoo - S37VEN, do we know 5A is safe for the magnet?

I seem to recall reading somewhere that you should only use a 5A fuse if you have an LE.

#14 10 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Anyhoo - S37VEN, do we know 5A is safe for the magnet? I'm thinking 4.5A first, but what do I know...

Hey there neighbor -- I can't definitively say that the 5A is safe. I am going off of what other pinsiders have experienced. Here's a hearsay link explaining that Stern said it was OK to use a 5A which was good enough for me. I have not had any problems since switching out for a 5A almost a year ago.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-ring-magnet-update

Quoted from pinster68:

I guess this is how people get ridiculously fast DTR times.

In some thread not too long ago, Keith (LOTR programmer) said that DTR 2 ball times should be lower than 1 ball times because in 2 ball DTR, the first shot goes through the ring and right back to the right flipper for an "easy" second shot into the ring, whereas on 1 ball DTR, you need to plunge another ball after locking the first, wait for it to get to a flipper and then make the second knock out shot.

#15 10 years ago

Wow - honestly I didn't know. I must be set up for 2 ball DTR because It never locks in the ring. I still can't see how anyone can get 11 seconds. I haven't hit them perfect, but pretty quick ... I just CAN'T see it that quick.

Now I need to switch to 1 ball DTR to see what the effect is.

Nifty.

#16 10 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Ever since the original 4amp fuse blew, I've used a slow blow 5 from radio shack. Never had a problem since. But the ring flasher, that's a different problem. That is constantly going.

Put an LED in the flasher and it should last a long time. The 5-sided type that cointaker sells work great there.

#17 10 years ago
Quoted from S37VEN:

In some thread not too long ago, Keith (LOTR programmer) said that DTR 2 ball times should be lower than 1 ball times because in 2 ball DTR, the first shot goes through the ring and right back to the right flipper for an "easy" second shot into the ring, whereas on 1 ball DTR, you need to plunge another ball after locking the first, wait for it to get to a flipper and then make the second knock out shot.

Isn't it the opposite? I thought on 2-ball, the first shot to the ring locks it, and then a second ball is auto-plunged. You then need to knock the first ball out of the magnet to DTR.

#18 10 years ago

I've only blown the 4A fuse once, when I first got it. I replaced it with another 4A and it has lasted for 4 years now. I do have an LE so not sure if that makes a difference. Mine is set for 2 ball as I like the effect of knocking the ball out of the magnet.

#19 10 years ago
Quoted from SealClubber:

I've only blown the 4A fuse once, when I first got it. I replaced it with another 4A and it has lasted for 4 years now. I do have an LE so not sure if that makes a difference. Mine is set for 2 ball as I like the effect of knocking the ball out of the magnet.

I just turned 2-ball DTR and Cave Troll Sequence modes on. I had my LOTR for 6 months now and didn't even know these existed.

#20 10 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

I just turned 2-ball DTR and Cave Troll Sequence modes on. I had my LOTR for 6 months now and didn't even know these existed.

What is cave troll sequence? Is that the video on youtube (played by tattyadams) that happens at the 2:25 mark?
I have to go check my machine!!!

#21 10 years ago

Ok done all the tests last night.
All switches work fine. Tuned the spinner to register more easily. All fuses were ok.

What i noticed was that the optos on the ring are registering very slowly. As this shot is mostly a very fast pass through, the optos don't have time to register.
The tech guy went to check everything and he says the solution is take out the optos and the boards connected to them and fix the connections that aren't so good.
Will do that soon and let you know what happened.

Another thing i noticed is the magnet only activates when the spinner is registering. With absolutely no delay. So if the ball reaches to the ring and the spinner has stopped already, the magnet is off. Making this shot even harder.
I say this mechanism is even worse the the gorilla on Congo.. lol

#22 10 years ago
Quoted from S37VEN:

Hey there neighbor -- I can't definitively say that the 5A is safe. I am going off of what other pinsiders have experienced. Here's a hearsay link explaining that Stern said it was OK to use a 5A which was good enough for me. I have not had any problems since switching out for a 5A almost a year ago.

It came stock with the 3A fuse and I kept blowing mine about every 10 games or so, finnally put in a 4A and have had no problems. I think the 4A is enough without the risk of going too high with a 5A.

Quoted from S37VEN:

I also set my game to 2 ball DTR (where the ring magnet does NOT hold the first ball) to prevent wear and tear on the magnet.

I set mine to 2 ball as well because the magent would grip the ball like a bulldog and not let anything, let alone another ball break it free. I got tired of missing DTR because of it.

#23 10 years ago
Quoted from hollywood:

What is cave troll sequence? Is that the video on youtube (played by tattyadams) that happens at the 2:25 mark?
I have to go check my machine!!!

This (copied from an old post from jarjarisgod):

From the Service Menu go to Adj and then LOTR. Once there, scroll until you get to Feature Adjustment #33. It should say "Cave Troll Sequence" and it will indicate that it is disabled. Toggle it on to enable it. Once enabled the Fellowship of the Ring MB will now start with the Cave Troll sequence and be followed by the Balrog midway through. Enjoy!

----

I think it's pretty cool, and adds more depth to the Fellowship mode. Not sure why they disable it by default. Perhaps that it wasn't in the earlier software revs.

1 week later
#24 10 years ago

Not having much luck fixing the opto board..
So i decide to just buy all new and see if it gets working once and for all.

The only board i can find is this one, but the manual has a different reference. This one is 520-5239-01 and the manual says 520-5239-00:
http://www.bestofpinball.de/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/4426
Is it the same thing?

As for the optos, same different references i find:
http://www.bestofpinball.de/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/7530
Is this one of the optos used?
This says transceiver. Doesn't the machine uses this one and another one called receiver? Where can i find one..

Help appreciated
And please excuse my ignorance

#25 10 years ago

bump for help?

#26 10 years ago

The "transceiver" is used as both a transmitter and a receiver, same part. I would replace the pair and the amp board. Also, on the amplifier board, typically the last 2 digits are the revision number, so "00" vs. "01" should work just fine. Look at the connectors on the picture below. As long as your connectors look the same it will work.

Like someone else mentioned, look to see if the holes that the spinner is mounted in are elongated from wear. My spinner spins for quite a while after the ball leaves it. If the holes are messed up, your only fix is to replace the metal ramp, 2nd link. One other thing. Make sure the clear plastic funnel that leads the ball into the ring is not cracked. 3rd link.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2219

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=185

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=188

Good luck in your fix!

#27 10 years ago

THANK YOU!

Guess i have one more thing to check.. the ramp on the spinner area.

#28 10 years ago

Problem solved. Turned out it was a broken wire. lol simple as that

#29 10 years ago

Congrats. It's very satisfying to fix a long-standing problem.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 12.95
10,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Deer Park, NY
$ 18.95
$ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
10,400 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Juneau, WI
€ 7.50
Playfield - Decals
Pin-Decals
 
$ 19.95
Lighting - Led
Mitchell Lighting
 
$ 120.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
 
From: $ 99.99
Cabinet - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
From: $ 99.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
RGP Models
 
From: $ 182.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinWorlds
 
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 12.99
Lighting - Led
Mitchell Lighting
 
$ 50.00
Playfield - Protection
Duke Pinball
 
$ 79.95
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
Pinball Life
 
$ 25.00
9,500
Machine - For Sale
Anderson, SC
From: $ 30.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
RamMods
 
$ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Fuzz
 
$ 45.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
 
$ 130.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Dijohn
 
From: $ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
 
From: $ 93.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinWorlds
 
9,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Ronkonkoma, NY
$ 39.50
$ 99.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-ring-shot-help and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.