I replaced my standard LOTR flipper coils with the LE upgrades (got tired of them getting mushy after a lengthy game and these are supposed to make that better) and as of now the left works and the right is problematic. Here is what I have done so far.

Replaced the flipper diode
Replaced the flipper fuse (blown)
Replaced the Q16 and Q15 transistors with the beefier upgrades. The old Q16 was short.
Verified the diode for the flipper was silver facing towards the middle.
Verified the wires are blue center and orange outer.

After replacing the transistor, it blew immediately along with the fuse.
Whats the probability that the coil is the problem? I could swap them but, I'm afraid it would just blow Q15 and I'll have to replace that one again. What's the best way to test the coil?

Thanks!

Yes the diode is on the coil. I replaced the first one as it broke off during installation. I will test the coil lugs, what should they read?

Coil tested out at 3ohms exact. So its good. Soldered a new diode (again) and transistor (again) re-verified the wiring. Just have to remount the coil and test. I have only one spare transistor left so if it fails this time, the origional coils are going back in and I'll consider it a valiant effort.

My hole is getting deeper here. Now the system won't boot?!? All the GI comes on but, no display, sound, or boot up? WTF? I haven't had to do this in a while but, I may have to call in the pros on this one as I am officially perplexed.

Thanks markmon. I found the boot problem issue. It ended up being a wire that was pulled out from one of the connectors caused by the act of pulling them out so many times. I installed the old coil and have the same problem as with the new (the flipper does nothing now). At this point I'm tempted to reverse the lug wires even though it goes against the logic I see on the schematic. Just a little afraid of causing more issues. Does anyone have a picture of their wiring of the right flipper they could share?

I feel stupid for not taking closer look of them before removal. I'm normally better about that.

Still battling this dragon. Right flipper still non-responsive, changed out diode and transistor three times tested all the wires for continuity. Went into the diagnostics and ran across this. What does this mean? Could it be a clue or is this a normal message??

20130317_141458.jpg

Yes, of course. Thanks for clarifying.

Its funny (well sort of), one would think a flipper problem such as this would be pretty straight forward and I've trouble shot through much bigger issues than this before. However, this has been the most diabolical issue I have ever encountered thus far. I've thrown more hours than I'd like to admit, at it. I'm sure it will end up being something simple but, I'm starting to think the right flipper is cursed or something. I may be calling in a priest as my next step.

The only thing I haven't tested at least three times is the resistors, that's next.

OK here is where I am at now.
re-installed the old (known good coil) - Check!
Tested all wiring from the coil to the P/D board for continuity - Check!
Tested and replaced transitor - Check!
Tested Diode - Check!
Tested resistor - Check!
Tested fuses - Check!
Tested traces - Check!

Flipper button activates attract sounds when not in play so, that would tell me the switch there works. Still no power to the coil. What this is leading me to believe is that there is a problem with the logic (CPU) board. There must be a failure there that's not sending the commands down to power the coil when the flipper button is pressed. Alas, I do not know how to test this.
Rob Anthony...where you at man?

Admititly, I am making an assumption on this since the hot wires come from the same source on the P/D board. I can track the trace back to the same leg on the BR, and if I test continuity from both red/yellow (hot) wires at the hot end of the fuse near the flippers, they come back connected. So by this I was assuming that if one is powering then the other must have power (unless the fuse is blown).

What's the safest way to test this for certain without frying something? I'm guessing I need to ground one side of my MM.

It does not.

OK, so a couple of stiff drinks (for the nerves) and the power test against the transistor tab while game is on. I have replaced the transistor 2 times now so, I have my doubts its the transistor. Though early on the first one (replaced one) blew instantly and I found the culprit to be a busted diode on the coil from installation. I did replace both.

Grounding the transitor Q16 tab does engage the coil. So...Rob, what are your thoughts here? Logic bad? I may need to get in touch with you for an IC replacement job.

By the way that's a pretty cool test that I'll have to remember for the future.

Yes, I actually did that a few steps ago. I've pulled that board now more times than I can count to have a 2nd, 3rd, and so on look at it. Rob, I'll give you a call tommorow, if that's OK.

We knew what you meant Atomicboy and all realize the Robs the go to guy on these things. No thunder was stolen here. Everyone's advise is much appreciated. The board is going out to Rob for IC replacement.