(Topic ID: 210477)

LOTR Repair


By CollinW89

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 49 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Pin_Guy
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

I just got my first pin and brought home a LOTR last night and the colormd isn't turning on. It was before I put the legs on. I'm also not able to start a game. Does anyone know where I should start to try and fix this?

When I put the backbox up and down, I accidentally pinched some of the wires. Do you think this could be causing the issue?

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#2 1 year ago
Quoted from CollinW89:

When I put the backbox up and down, I accidentally pinched some of the wires. Do you think this could be causing the issue?

Yes. Where does that connector belong? Should be a Letter and number on the board where it plugs in.

#3 1 year ago

Are you sure those wires didn't short against something? They definately need repaired, but if they didn't short to anything it should still work if the wire still has continuity. I would either solder in a new wire with shrink tubing or you can temporarily use electrical tape.

Check fuses for continuity

#4 1 year ago

The wire looks like the unused power connector after installing a DMD. If that's the case, it should not be reattached, but you need to make sure the wires are covered so they do not short against each other

#5 1 year ago

Heres the install instructions check your boards have the ribbon cables and power cables installed. It looks like your J3 power is missing on the Stern displayboard. I also don't see any LEDs lit on the colordmd interface board.

https://www.colordmd.com/Assembly%20for%20Instructions%20Stern%20WS%20CHROMA%20Rev1.PDF

#6 1 year ago

Your pics aren’t great.

1.Is the red light lit on the controller board? If not, you have a power issue from board in upper left of the backbox. Check the fuse on that board.
2. Does the colordmd board have a green light light on it? If you push the right most button on the dmd, you should at least get the dmd menu screen. If you get nothing, you have a power issue. If you get a menu, it’s either 1 above or 3 below.
3.check your ribbon cables carefully and make sure the red stripe is facing the right direction on the controller board. I’ve reversed them myself and you wont see anything on the screen if you do that.

#7 1 year ago

That LEDOCD flopping around back there makes me as nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs. Don't let that baby short against anything! Yikes

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

That LEDOCD flopping around back there makes me as nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs. Don't let that baby short against anything! Yikes

I had the exact same issue with ledocd board. The tape they use doesn’t hold well.

#9 1 year ago

Ya agreed, but I don't even see that is has the plastic backer board. looks to me like the back of the board is exposed to the metal backer plate in the backbox. Looks like a world of hurt about to happen. BZZZZZZZ Sparks and boards blown

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Ya agreed, but I don't even see that is has the plastic backer board. looks to me like the back of the board is exposed to the metal backer plate in the backbox. Looks like a world of hurt about to happen. BZZZZZZZ Sparks and boards blown

It’s the very first version of the LEDOCD, wires are short enough it won’t touch anything scary, unless the speaker board is inserted roughly

#11 1 year ago

Looks like two of the four LED's on the I/O power driver board are out, indicating that you don't have +20V or +50V feeds (hard to say for sure though since the pic is pretty bad). I'd start by checking fuses F6, F7, F20 and F21 - if they blow again you may have a short

#12 1 year ago

Thanks so much for your help everyone. I'm pretty green on all this stuff and really appreciate everyone's advice. I checked all the fuses and they seem to be good I bought a multi meter just to make sure.

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#13 1 year ago

To be sure I understand you, this pin came on and you could play a game before you picked it up last night. You hauled it home, put the legs on, and when you stood up the backbox pinched some wires. After moving the pinched wires you turned on the pin and some lights come on but you get no sound as if the game is booting and nothing on the display, just completely blank?

You have a multi-meter, do you have a manual? Page DR. 1 shows all the fuses and their location on the various boards. With game on if you can safely check F8 & F9 for 12v DC and F23 for 5v DC do so.

For future pictures may I suggest removing the fluorescent light bulb and setting your camera to maximum resolution? If we can see focused shots and read the labels on the boards we can better assist you.

#14 1 year ago

Yes you are correct in the first paragraph YeOldPinPlayer. I pulled out F8 and it wasn't registering with the multi meter so I'm gonna try my local auto store and buy several replacement fuses. I'll keep you all updated and I really appreciate everyone's help, I've been working on this since 8 and having everyone here to help has been a blessing.

I posted pictures this time from my camera instead of my iphone. If these are still not the right type of shot let me know.

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#15 1 year ago
Quoted from CollinW89:

I'm gonna try my local auto store and buy several replacement fuses.

You'll want fuses rated for 250v. Auto parts stores often only have 32v rated fuses which will work but can spark when they blow. Home Depot or Lowes will most likely have 250v rated fuses of the amperage values you need.

#16 1 year ago

If you don't have NVRAM put batteries in the game. Sometimes you will get a coin door error or something when first starting a game.

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

You'll want fuses rated for 250v. Auto parts stores often only have 32v rated fuses which will work but can spark when they blow. Home Depot or Lowes will most likely have 250v rated fuses of the amperage values you need.

Collin bought th game from me; I wrapped it, helped him load it up 3 flights of stairs, and we turned it in to make sure all coils and DMD fired ok. They did, but since we had left the legs at my house, the game wasn’t level, so not much fun to play. I am 99% sure we are just talking a blown fuse, but I didn’t see what happened exactly. We are trying to diagnose but its a little hard since I am at work.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from Kkuoppamaki:

+20V or +50V feeds

coin door is probably open for those two; the color DMD runs exclusively off +12V so I would start there

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from CollinW89:

I just got my first pin and brought home a LOTR last night

I cant think of a better machine to start your collection; Congratulations!

#20 1 year ago

With power off, can you reseat J17 on the power driver board to see if that helps? If that doesn't try J16. 20180221_191726 (resized).jpg

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

coin door is probably open for those two; the color DMD runs exclusively off +12V so I would start there

Good point. OP, can you tell what happens to all LEDs when you turn the machine on. Also on the color DMD

#22 1 year ago

Thanks guys. I reseated j17 and j17 and then I replaced fuse F8. There doesn’t seem to be any progress. So the pictures I posted are still up to date.

#23 1 year ago

The Leds seem to be working fine. The coin door is lit, the flash makes it hard to see with the photo with the door closed but those two lights are on.

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#24 1 year ago

The photos where I have a blue sleeve and my hand is holding a wire- those are the ones I think might have been pinched a bit but they look pretty good and they're not exposed.

#25 1 year ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

You have a multi-meter, do you have a manual? Page DR. 1 shows all the fuses and their location on the various boards. With game on if you can safely check F8 & F9 for 12v DC and F23 for 5v DC do so.

Your board needs 12v and 5v to boot and run properly. Do you have those voltages present?

#26 1 year ago

So when i was having power issues with my lotr, it was the wires going into the j17 plug. I had to unplug it and push the wires into the plug more. Also when you close the coin door, this should engage the power. Make sure there is not a loose wire on the white safety switch that is closed when the door is closed. The red leds should turn on the power board when you close the coin door.

#27 1 year ago

Yes I have a multimeter. I get a reading on F23 but I don’t when I try to test the other fuses.

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from CollinW89:

Yes I have a multimeter. I get a reading on F23 but I don’t when I try to test the other fuses.

I'm confused, you said earlier you tested all the fuses with your meter. Please test all the fuses, except for GI, again. With game off, Put meter on continiutiy, if you get continuity from one end of fuse to the other, it's good. Test the fuse on the dmd power supply board. Then test the power on the board test points for 12v and 5v. You need to determine if you are getting power and you haven't been able to determine that yet.

#29 1 year ago

So if you press the rightmost tiny button along the board edge on the ColorDMD board to bring up the menu, does the display show that (ie, is the display working at all).

#30 1 year ago

I took each of the fuses out and tested them for resistance and I get this reading on F23 but no reading on the others.

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#31 1 year ago

I pushed these buttons on the display board but nothing comes on. And the display hasn’t been working.

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#32 1 year ago

That’s for 5v logic, 4a slow blow. Do you have another fuse? You can pull the fuse on f20 and put it in f23 if you don’t have a spare. F20 is also 4a and controls the ring magnet. Read the fuse on f20 and make sure it’s 4a, some people have replaced that one with a 5a when their magnet fuse blows.

#33 1 year ago

I'm attaching some more pictures of the under playfield and the near the coinbox. All I see on the colormd is the green light you see in the picture.

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#34 1 year ago

the numbers were jumping around from second to next on the multimeter but I'll double check that they're the right fuses in those places.

#35 1 year ago

That was huge in F23. I swore I took that one out with the rest of them and tested. Everything seems to be working now except the display. Thanks so much so far.

#36 1 year ago

I got that red light on the color dm now too

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#37 1 year ago
Quoted from CollinW89:

the numbers were jumping around from second to next on the multimeter but I'll double check that they're the right fuses in those places.

Invest in a better meter, it will be much easier in the future. Home Depot has Them for $20, inova brand is fine.

Your color dmd should be working now. Press the right most button on it and you should get the menu.

#38 1 year ago

I just noticed this came out and got bent. Looks like this is the problem. I’ll probably have to get a new one.

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#39 1 year ago

Is this the problem why the color dm isn’t coming on? By the way I’m super appreciative of everyone’s help. This was my first go at learning all this and I’m very glad there is such an amazing community here to help me.

#40 1 year ago
Quoted from CollinW89:

I just noticed this came out and got bent. Looks like this is the problem. I’ll probably have to get a new one.

That’s an issue. Contact colordmd, they’ll help you. Looks like you are good otherwise. That board set is very reliable, knew it had to be something simple like a fuse.

#41 1 year ago

Once again thanks so much to all of you, I can’t say enough how happy I am.

#42 1 year ago
Quoted from CollinW89:

I just noticed this came out and got bent. Looks like this is the problem. I’ll probably have to get a new one.

Yeah, that's a huge problem since there are a lot of fine connections in there. Hopefully only the cable end got munged and not the part it plugs into on the circuit board...

#43 1 year ago
Quoted from CollinW89:

I took each of the fuses out and tested them for resistance and I get this reading on F23 but no reading on the others.

Your meter is set to check DC voltage. When you check resistance on your fuses you need to turn the dial to what I've circled. The Arrow points to the Ohms symbol.

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Edit: Also, when testing for 12v and 5v you need to move the dial one click clockwise to 20. In the photo it's set to 2000mv, which is too low.
Don't get discouraged We all started somewhere. We'll help you get it going again.

#44 1 year ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Your meter is set to check DC voltage. When you check resistance on your fuses you need to turn the dial to what I've circled. The Arrow points to the Ohms symbol.

Edit: Also, when testing for 12v and 5v you need to move the dial one click clockwise to 20. In the photo it's set to 2000mv, which is too low.
Don't get discouraged We all started somewhere. We'll help you get it going again.

Collin, THIS THREAD is why Pinside is awesome!!!

#45 1 year ago

Great thread.

#46 1 year ago

I replaced the three AA batteries on mine today. How do I secure them with tywrap to the circuit board?

#47 1 year ago

Batteries? Eh...Battery free is much better and a quick 30 sec upgrade. http://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

#48 1 year ago
Quoted from OU182:

I replaced the three AA batteries on mine today. How do I secure them with tywrap to the circuit board?

As noted at the link pinballmaniac40 provided, installing the NVRAM doesn't require soldering on your Lord of the Rings
You only need to note the orientation of U212 (pictured at the link), CAREFULLY remove it, then CAREFULLY push the NVRAM into the now empty socket.

You don't even need a chip puller - but it's helpful. Don't use a metal screwdriver, you could gouge the board. Popsicle stick works in a pinch.

#49 1 year ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

You don't even need a chip puller - but it's helpful. Don't use a metal screwdriver, you could gouge the board. Popsicle stick works in a pinch.

I always use a small metal screwdriver, have for the last 30 years, and never damaged a single board; you just need to push down on the screwdriver, not pull up, or just slightly rotate it CCW and CW to pry it upward. You just have to realize that the end goal is to pry the chip straight up, which means switching sides multiple times until it pops out. Using this method you get the chip out without bending any pins, which is a good thing, since you may need to put it back in.

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