First have you checked to make sure this is the only switch not working. That information could possibly point you in a specific direction. Check all the switches in the same row and in the same column.

I would put a meter across the switch (game off, meter in diode/continuity or ohms) and make sure the switch is working.

Excellent post btw in regards to providing relevant information.

Every LOTR owner has a handful of these http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5116-01

On hand. That switch goes all the time, and I'd bet a paycheck that's what is wrong. There is a switch test in the service menu to be sure.

I learned how to solder putting those on. Not a hard job at all. Good luck!

switch out the switch easy fix

replace the switch. Might as well learn how to do it, it won't be the last. You will need to solder. Switch part number is on your matrix diagram. Diode part number should also be somewhere on that page or the adjacent. If you do replace it, make sure the band on the diode faces the same way as it is now. This is fairly easy. I would also order extra switches as they are used in other parts of the game.

Had a similar problem, I resolder the switch and it started working again.. I read somewhere that these games were made with bad solder or something. If that doesn't work order a new switch. Good Luck!

These particular switches just suck. My theory is the exposed cutout allows dirt in and causes premature failure. You get about 700-1000 games out of one before it starts crapping out. Oftentimes exercising the f*ck out of it will get another 20-30 games if you're out of spares, but you only get one or two resurrections before it goes for good.

The Gollum switch will die as well, so get at least 6, they should cover you for a couple years. Seriously.

Go to Home Depot and get a 25w soldering iron ( I have a weller) and a couple of chisel tips plus solder with flux in it. That's all you need. Make sure you tin the tip of the iron. Practice a bit so you get the hang of it. You want to heat up the wire/connection so the solder melts into it. There are a ton of you tube videos. We've all been where you are, me not that long ago. Before you know it, you'll be ready to solder just about anything on the machine...its a critical skill for pin ownership.

It's really easy. You can disassemble at the clips and move it to a table to desolder and solder. Here's what I used (including video. Copper solder wick is best for removing it. Again really easy). You could be doing this a bit on LOTR, BTW.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-switch-problem#post-1330378

http://www.youtube.com/embed/cXS1E0oV9qg?autoplay=1&rel=0

http://www.youtube.com/embed/K7GAplUJ_Lc?autoplay=1&rel=0

I was exactly where you are now about 2 years ago with soldering and my D&D. I was getting yelled at on the KLOV forums for being too scared to solder parts together for a light gun recoil solenoid. Don't worry it gets easier. I will give you a MASSIVE hint ahead of time... use this if you find your solder not flowing.

http://www.parts-express.com/caig-rsf-r80-2-deoxit-rosin-soldering-flux-jar-56g--341-221

It's probably just a failed switch, and that's very easy to replace. I performed this exact same repair on my 2003 LOTR yesterday, so it's still fresh on my mind.

1. Remove the coil assembly from beneath the playfield by disassembling the Shire/coil assembly bracket and disconnecting the wire harness so you can do the work on a bench instead of in place below the playfield.

2. Remove the shrink wraps covering the two switch lugs, if you want to replace them. Otherwise, just pull the shrink wraps down about 1-1/2 inch along each wire to expose the soldered connections.

3. Desolder the wires, remove the old switch, and discard it.

4. Replace the old switch with a new part.

5. Replace the two pieces of shrink wrap (or keep the old ones in place) and push them about 1-1/2 inches down along each wire before proceeding to the next step. (You don't want the heat from the soldering process to prematurely shrink the shrink wrap out of position.)

6. Remove the old solder from the copper ends of the two wires using desoldering wick/braid, and apply flux to the copper ends and the lugs on the new switch to remove oxidation and help the new solder flow.

7. Re-solder the dark green wire onto the middle lug (marked "NO" for "Normally Open") and the orange wire onto the common lug below the hinge (marked "C" for "Common").

8. After the newly soldered joints have hardened, wipe the flux residue away with rubbing alcohol to prevent future corrosion, and push the shrink wraps into place on each wire (and heat to shrink, if new) to cover the newly soldered lugs.

9. Reassemble the coil bracket below the playfield, and reconnect the wire harness.

10. You may have to adjust the switch a little (i.e., bend it upwards a bit) after installation to ensure good contact when a pinball actually hits the Shire. (Don't just assume that successful switch activation by finger is enough.)

Hope this helps. Good luck!

Razorbak86 Thanks very much for your comprehensive description of this task! I’m ordering switches now, & your guide make me much more confident about my potential for success!