Flakey switch. It's a common problem. Just replace the switch behind Balrog.

You can confirm in switch test mode.

Yes try that in test for sure

Go into switch test mode in the diagnostics menu and push on balrog. He should register on the screen.

I had the same problem with my new LoTR. Replaced the switch and hadn't had a problem since. Make sure there's a diode soldered into the new switch; when I got my LoTR back in 2006, Chaz was kind enough to send me a few replacement switches with the diode already soldered in. I think pinballlife might sell these?

The diode on the old switch should be fine. Just take a pic of the old switch and note the orientation and what leads it is soldered to. Cut out (if you have slack wires) or de-solderer the old switch. Re-solder the diode on to the new switch same way and solder back to wires and re-install.

I like to get alligator test lead and attach to the diode on the side where you are soldering so heat transfers to the alligator clip and not to the diode so you dont fry the diode.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1907

If you push on balrog or hit him with the ball, does it show it then opening, or does it remain as closed. If it stays as closed, it's the switch. I've never done it, bit I've read it's a bitch to get at the switch.

When you're in that test you're able to test all switches. Press targets and stuff...you'll see them light up on the switch matrix and make a sound.

I think Balrog's default is closed...open when you push him. It's possible the switch is fine but needs a tweak. You're gonna have to take him apart to find out...but once you've done that, plug him in and do the switch test while he's open...that way you can see if the switch itself is still good.

This isn't the easiest switch to replace, I would recommend removing the whole upper Balrog assembly.

WELCOME TO PINBALL, MATHAFACKO!!!!

Srsly tho, soldering is easy. Learning to do it will make things like switch repairs a breeze. It's a repair you can do in a few minutes & the cost of the part (few bucks) vs. paying some repair guy hundreds.

Look at the switch when you take it apart...it'll have two wires & a diode. Take a pic. Snip the wires, strip the ends, solder them on the new switch w/ the diode (make sure the band is facing the same way it was on the original switch). Done.

The active switch test that you said you had is just that - it will tell you what switches are currently active .

To test the Balrog switch on its own go into the single switch test mode . It will bring up a matrix on the DMD screen and if you push each individual switch it will list it on the screen ( just take all the balls out of the trough first otherwise your trough switches will register ) . If you then push on the Balrog from the front you'll see if it's activating or not .

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=173

7 cents...can't hurt to just have a few on hand.

You did it already. Both switch tests will tell you the same exact thing.

Look in the manual. Everything is broken down for you there.

Open up the coin door , press enter to go into the Portals menu , select diagnostics , then switch test , you'll then be able to choose from active , single tests etc.

As for the soldering if you've never done it before then get some scrap pieces of wire and practice stripping the insulation off the ends of them ( about 5mm ) and soldering them together . If you "tin" the ends of the wire first it'll make it a whole lot easier . To "tin" the wires - after you strip the insulation off the end , twist the strands of wire so it makes it a neat twisted single wire . Then dip the twisted wire in some flux which will help the solder to flow . Melt a small amount of solder onto the tip of your soldering iron . Hold the soldering iron on the end of the wire and the solder will flow off the iron and onto the wire . As soon as the solder flows onto the wire remove the iron or you'll risk overheating the wire or melting the solder right off .

Repeat this for both wires . Once you have them both "tinned" it's just a matter of holding the two tinned wires together and holding the tip of the iron on them and the solder from both wires will melt together and join them .

The trick is to know when to pull the iron off as if you do it too early the wires won't be bonded properly . Hold it on too long and the solder will flow off and they won't be bonded .

It's the same process when you come to soldering in a new switch except you'll only be joining one wire at a time to each lug of the switch .

Couple of tips :

- Photos ! Take lots of clear photos before you undo any switch so you can tell which wire goes where etc.

- Solder splash . When you come to soldering under the playfield in the cabinet of your machine remember that solder can drip etc. so put down plenty of protection to cover up other parts especially the cabinet speaker .

- As Rarehero mentioned , make sure you take note of which way the diode is fitted before you remove it . It will be black with a silver stripe on one end . Make sure the new one gets fitted with the silver stripe the same way .

Just get on YouTube and look up some soldering tutorial, when you see it being done it's easy to feel like it's not that big a deal. Because it's not. MIL's advice is solid too, but watch someone do it and the words he's typing will make much more sense. You can't own a pin and not be able to do basic soldering, it just comes with the territory. Unless you like broken machines or paying someone way too much money for basic fixes you could do yourself in minutes.

Here, I googled you up one, maybe someone has a favorite, but take the 5 minutes:

Everyone does that, it's impossible not to I've decided.

If you just ordered, you can Email Terry...he'll hook you up... cancel it so you can re-order it all together or combine them for you or something.

Any resolution to this?

This should be the top line of any "getting started" page.

If you're not prepared to learn how to be an electronics technician then look into stamp collecting. Licking doesn't take as much practice (insert joke here).

Replacing a switch is pretty easy. I'm also new to pinball but managed to replace a switch without problems.
Here's what helped me

- Get a good soldering station and desoldering tool. I have Hakko FX888D soldering station and it's great. I also spent money on Hakko 808 desoldering station to make it easier, solder suckers are cheap and work too but I wanted to make it as easy as possible
- Practice soldering first. I ordered a practice kit from amazon (it was xmas time, so I went for http://www.amazon.com/Velleman-LED-Christmas-Tree-Kit/dp/B000LPEBPE/ref=sr_1_10 but any kit will do)
- Search pinside and google for tips, plenty of repair guides and videos are out there
- Protect the surrounding area, you don't want to burn other wires or drop solder everywhere
- Turn the machine off before repairing it, you can always short something if it's on

If I can do it, so can you!

Hey guys, so I actually encountered the same issue and replaced the switch today without any luck. I bought the machine a few weeks ago so it never worked since I got it... Followed wires and everything seems solid. Any suggestions?

Did you check this out?

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-balrog-switch-activation-problem

I did actually read that, the wires seem fine no breaks bent or anything. I might replace them anyway but figured I'd see if there could possibly be anything else as well. Thanks

Does the switch register in switch test? Any other switches dead, or just that one (I had a whole column out, turned out to be a loose wire)?

All other switches work fine, the machine had a laundry list of issues but that's the last one. It does show in the menu but dont remember if it said opened or closed.(at work now) I think closed tho