(Topic ID: 69902)

Advice Needed from an LOTR Expert

By Bigbossfan

10 years ago


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  • 47 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by judremy
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 10 years ago

First, wasn't sure what sub-forum to put this under, so hope PLT is ok.

Anyway, bought a routed LOTR about a month ago. Fully stripped it, removed mylar and cleaned everything (as much as a beginner can clean everything!).

In any event, I noticed that the machine played different on many levels. I'll give one example. When locking the ball, (prior to clean-up), the ball would lock either through Gollums Cave or the ramp. After I cleaned it, strictly through the ramp. Now all of a sudden it's doing it through both again (out of the blue).

I'm confused. Would like to link up with someone who is well versed in LOTR who can tell me if my pin is screwed up or not! Please PM me.

Thanks.

#2 10 years ago

As far as I know, balls should only lock via the sword ramp. Perhaps this is a function of setting your machine on Extra-Easy. I haven't tried that, but it's worth a look.

#3 10 years ago
Quoted from MapleSyrup:

As far as I know, balls should only lock via the sword ramp. Perhaps this is a function of setting your machine on Extra-Easy. I haven't tried that, but it's worth a look.

Never heard of it locking through the cave myself either.

#4 10 years ago

Go into the switch test menu and send a ball to the golum cave. Does it phantom trigger a sword switch as well?

#5 10 years ago

Sword ramp lock only....do a switch test.........

#6 10 years ago

Thanks. Thought something was screwy.

#7 10 years ago

Mine did this too. It was because the switch on the ramp had the leaf on he wrong side of the wire actuator. Check that.

#8 10 years ago

Well, sorted out the problem gents. I had to bend the actuator a bit, works like a charm now. Have another question for you guys. (Hopefully you revisit this thread!)

1. A new issue, during Fellowshop MB, a ball is consistently getting caught between Balrog and the left post. Like I said, this is new, no idea why it's happening.

2. The mode light is lit from the beginning of a game. Prior to shopping the game, the mode would never start when I hit the ring. After shopping, through fluke, it was working fine. Until now. Mode light is lit, I hammer the ring, no modes start at all.

Any guidance is much appreciated!

#9 10 years ago

1. Is the Balrog closing up snugly to the center ramp? There is a "torque limiter" on the Balrog shaft. It looks like a golfball sized steel ball. Ck to see if the screws that hold the 2 halves are loose. They need to be tight.

2. Mode light should be lit at beginning of game on default settings. In switch test, check your spinner switch and the opto that "looks" across the ring entrance. Does the magnet grab the ball as it should when the ring mode is lit. The magnet is triggered by the spinner switch. The start of the mode is triggered by the ring entrance opto.

#10 10 years ago
Quoted from leaffan67:

Mine did this too. It was because the switch on the ramp had the leaf on he wrong side of the wire actuator. Check that.

Mine's always done that and I thought it was normal behavior until now. Anyway, I've had mine for almost 3 years now with it like that and I'm going to just keep it that way. I need all the assistance I can get.

#11 10 years ago

Too funny bigdaddy!

LOTR_breath, thanks for the tips. Will check that in the AM in regards to the Balrog. He's definetly not closing snugly to the centre ramp so I'll check the shaft.

In regards to the ring entrance, I ran the magnet test tonight, doesn't read the ball at all. So I'll have to look for the opto. I checked the fuse, fuse is fine (it's only a 3 Amp, so I know I should up that to a 4 Amp) The spinner for the most part works as well. I say for the most part because it only registers about half the times it spins. For example, I spun it by hand so it rotated about 6 times. It only registered about 3.

I've had the pin about 3 weeks now, the more I play it the more I'm noticing things that need to be fixed. I guess this is the risk you take when buying a used pin!!

Also, if you can help with a fix. I bought a new clear plastic insert for the ring. It's about a week old. Just noticed tonight when I was trying to do the magnet test, there's a chunk out of it already. Piss me off! Is this typical or is there an easy way to adjust the angle of the ramp?

#12 10 years ago

It should not matter what position the Balrog is in when you tighten the torque limiter.

Sucks that your ring funnel is broken already. I replaced mine several years ago and it is still fine. I don't really know of any adjustments to the ramp. Check your pitch and see if your using those "upgraded" flipper coils. I had to go back to the original coils as I was breaking plastics with the PBL upgraded ones.

#13 10 years ago

Well, pushed the Balrog back as far as it could go, does not close up right agains the left post of the ramp. Appears to be approx a 3/4" gap.

I'm also having problems with the Ring. Not accepting any hits, no modes start etc. When I get destroy the ring, hit the ring many times, nothing happens. Subsequently ran the magnet test, rolled ball through (tried both grab and throw and grab and drop) to no avail.

So obviously I have to start troubleshooting my ring now. Any recommendations on where to start?

Thanks for your patience and guidance.

#14 10 years ago

Probably have a failed fuse.

#15 10 years ago

There is an red light opto receiver pair in the ring to indicate when the ball has gotten into the entrance (the magnet should grab it and pull it to there if the spinner works). Next, there is a switch inside the pass-behind from the ring to the serpentine habit trail. Make sure this works. Nothing worse than making the final kill shot on the Ring Destruction, only to have it not register because you've got a bad switch back there.

#16 10 years ago

Bigbossfan, I hope you get everything worked out! I am having similar problems with my ring magnet and the switch that Hogbog is talking about. My switch tests fine, my spinner is fine, my fuses are fine, yet no magnet action? If i come across the answer I will PM you my findings - please do the same!
Thanks
Kyle

#17 10 years ago

It's a blown fuse, you need to go to Radio Shack and pick up some 5 amp "slow blow" fuses, the current is probably a 4 amp and the same thing happened to me 2 years ago, a few times, and replaced with the 5 amp, which Stern said was ok, and never had a problem since.......

#18 10 years ago

If you have an LE I think its F7 on the board and if its a regular I think its F20.....

#19 10 years ago

Moved to "Tech: Dot Matrix Games" sub-forum.

#20 10 years ago

After replacing the original 4A slow-blow in my LE, the replacement 4A slow-blow that I put in from Radio Shack has lasted for two years and going.

#21 10 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

After replacing the original 4A slow-blow in my LE, the replacement 4A slow-blow that I put in from Radio Shack has lasted for two years and going.

I remember having this conversation over 2 years ago DC! Man how time flies...........

#22 10 years ago
Quoted from iceman44:

I remember having this conversation over 2 years ago DC! Man how time flies...........

Every LOTR owner has this conversation sooner or later. Case in point ...

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-lotr-le-ring-fuse

#23 10 years ago

No doubt Gweem! My first pin ever then and how I got to Pinside and all the great help and support that people provided then and now.

#24 10 years ago

I still believe the batch of fuses Stern was using were of poor quality or defective.

#25 10 years ago

Well switched out the 3 Amp for a 4 Amp (from what I've read for a non LE). No difference. Will try a 5 amp in the morning and let you all know!

Thanks for the advice gents, regardless if it works or not!

#26 10 years ago

On another note, is starting the modes tied in as well to the opto's?

#27 10 years ago

Well, couldn't wait until tomorrow morning. Just changed the 4 Amp with a 5 Amp. Unfortunately, no change. No modes start, and no sucking in of balls!!

#28 10 years ago

Well, my trouble shooting woes continue. Found this switch (from looking at the manual I believe it is #25) going up the ramp to Ringwraith that wasn't registering. Was a patch job from previous owner. I stripped the electrical tape and the pic attached is what I found. Reconnected the wire, plugged it back in and the switch tested fine. However, there is no diode on this switch.

Given my very limited technical knowledge, I have no idea if this switch even needs a diode. Could someone point me in the right direction? If it doesn't need a diode, I hope to just be able to solder the wire back together and try to protect it a little better than what it was.

Thanks!

switch.jpgswitch.jpg
#29 10 years ago

While I'm at it, is it possible that this could have also been leading to my ring woes (i.e., the circuit being broken?)

#30 10 years ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

Well, my trouble shooting woes continue. Found this switch (from looking at the manual I believe it is #25) going up the ramp to Ringwraith that wasn't registering. Was a patch job from previous owner. I stripped the electrical tape and the pic attached is what I found. Reconnected the wire, plugged it back in and the switch tested fine. However, there is no diode on this switch.
Given my very limited technical knowledge, I have no idea if this switch even needs a diode. Could someone point me in the right direction? If it doesn't need a diode, I hope to just be able to solder the wire back together and try to protect it a little better than what it was.
Thanks!

switch.jpg 600 KB

Certain switches on the game don't require a diode at the switch. Look under the playfield for a small assembly that will have a Yellow sticker with the switch label on it. that assembly is doing all the blocking work and not the actual switch. I beleive the wringraith was one of them going from memory...

#31 10 years ago

check your switch on the spinner, that's what activates the magnet. It might not register all the time. I had to replace that switch a couple times. When you run the coil test does the magnet work? If not might have to get back there and check the wires.

#32 10 years ago

Thanks for the responses guys. Just looked under the PF. There is a yellow sticker right by where this switch plugs in, but about 90% of the sticker is gone, and can't make out what it says. So, I'm also guessing it's safe to assume that this particular switch doesn't require a diode. Hey, whats the worst that can happen?

xblood, I have checked the switch on the spinner. It wasn't registering everytime, so I had to bend the aperature a bit. It registers all the time now. Also, the coil test doesn't report any errors on the magnet. So I have to assume that's ok. The magnet was working sporadically a couple of weeks ago, now it doesn't. I'm starting to think it's a opto issue. (Once again, in what very limited tech knowledge I have!)

#33 10 years ago

There should be a coil test to run the magnet (will have to close the coin door while in test and press the start button to fire it). You should actually here the magnet turn on, it would be a buzzing sound.

#34 10 years ago

Hi xblood. So did the test you suggested and indeed, got the buzzing sound.

So I assume that means my magnet is good? Any suggestions what I should do next? By the way, thanks so much for assistance provided so far!!

#35 10 years ago

If not the fuses and the switch on the spinner works then it must be the opto which is either bad or out of alignment...

Same thing happened to me on my SM and Doc Ock, the magnet stopped working and after I finally figured out the magnet still worked and was good, the opto ended up being cracked and very slightly misaligned so it didn't register at all and fire the magnet....

Check that out, must be it, especially if the magnet is humming, another way to test the magnet is in test mode roll a ball up there and see if it grabs....

#36 10 years ago

Hi ice. Tried that, doesn't grab the ball. I hit the spinner with a finger while holding the ball up by the magnet, nothing. But the switch on the spinner does register!

#37 10 years ago
Quoted from xbloodgreenx:

There should be a coil test to run the magnet (will have to close the coin door while in test and press the start button to fire it). You should actually here the magnet turn on, it would be a buzzing sound.

So when you did the coil test in this manner and heard the magnet turn on with buzzing sound and you rolled ball through and it didn't grab then magnet isn't working correctly and might need replacing, so it has to either be the magnet or opto, one or the other.......

Send Lloyd, "LTG" a pm and see what he thinks....

#38 10 years ago

Too the point now where I figure it's gotta be the opto or the opto board. Problem is, looking at Marco and PBL, can figure out what it is I need to order. Can anyone more knowledgeable than me help me out??

#40 10 years ago

There is also an opto Trans/Rec amplifier board 520-5239-00.

I believe this is the improved version:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2219

#41 10 years ago

Just wanted to thank everyone along the way who helped me sort out my LOTR issues. Finally got the Ring figured out. I was actually taking off the optos and noticed that a wire was sitting there, not connected to anything. Subsequently scoured through my manual and determined that it came out of the molex plugged into the opto board. Modes and ring are now working 100%. So gratifying to fix it finally. But wouldn't of been able to do it without the help of pinside (and one of my buddies).

So, the LOTR seems to be working great now. Just a light in one of the bumpers won't light up (I've changed the bulb, it's not a bulb issue!) LOL. But I can live with that for now. Now I need to destroy the ring!

#42 10 years ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

Just wanted to thank everyone along the way who helped me sort out my LOTR issues. Finally got the Ring figured out. I was actually taking off the optos and noticed that a wire was sitting there, not connected to anything. Subsequently scoured through my manual and determined that it came out of the molex plugged into the opto board. Modes and ring are now working 100%. So gratifying to fix it finally. But wouldn't of been able to do it with the help of pinside (and one of my buddies).
So, the LOTR seems to be working great now. Just a light in one of the bumpers won't light up (I've changed the bulb, it's not a bulb issue!) LOL. But I can live with that for now. Now I need to destroy the ring!

Just to make sure you know, the pop bumpers in LOTR are 906 type (12 volt) bulbs. A 555 (5 volt) will not work there.

Glad you were able to fix the ring problem.

#43 10 years ago

Thanks DC. I'll double check that but pretty sure I have 906's in them.

#44 10 years ago

The sockets in the pop bumpers are kind of shitty. One of the wires is probably frayed. You can loosen the wires from underneath and then check and see if either one is broken. That is my guess. Just need to crimp the wire down again.

#45 10 years ago

Glad you got it fixed!

#46 10 years ago

Hi Jud. You mean from underneath the yellow plastic piece they go into? I've checked the wires where they are soldered to and seem pretty solid. I did notice however that the bulb sits in it kind of loose. Pulled the wires off the bulb a bit but didn't really seem to make the bulb sit that much more solidly.

#47 10 years ago

There are tabs that hold the bulb in the little yellow piece. I had a tab broken off on one side and it prevented the bulb from working. I had to buy a new yellow piece and do some wire splicing (those Stern connectors suck).

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