(Topic ID: 197096)

LOTR +20v issue SOLVED

By MattS

6 years ago



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  • 9 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by MattS
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

So in the middle of playing a game, the sword lock quit releasing balls and I got a tech alert saying to check the sword lock coil.
I powered the game down, checked the coil for a short, it was fine. Doesn't look burnt, no smell.
Checked the fuses, F7 was blown.
Replaced the fuse (5a slow blow) turned the game on, worked for a couple minutes, fuse blew again.
Replaced fuse, turned game on, blew immediately.
I can get the coil to fire by jumping the transistor to ground so the coil seems fine.
The entire +20v circuit is out and I am thinking possibly the bridge rectifier (B2) died.
Is there a way to test this without pulling the board?
Any other suggestions on what the culprit may be?
Thanks in advance for any assistance!

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

In fact there is.
1) Remove J6, J7, and J17 from power driver board
2) Use your ohm measure the following:
With the RED lead on ground, place the black lead on J17-6 and J17-7 both points should measure around 2M ohms
With the BLACK lead on ground, place the red lead on J17-6 and J17-7 both points should measure open.
With the RED lead on J7-1, place the black lead on J17-6 and J17-7 both points should measure open
With the BLACK lead on J7-1, place the red lead on J17-6 and J17-7 both points should measure around 2M ohms.
3) Record results and post them here.
Essentially you are looking for one or more shorted bridge diodes, it should be obvious if one is shorted.
The pins on the J17 connector are labeled but can be hard to see; to help you locate the pins on J17, here is how they are oriented on the board:
3 2 1
6 5 4
9 8 7
NOTE: You can easily isolate this to either a Power Driver Board issue or playfield issue by simply removing J6 and J7 then powering on the game, if the fuse blows then the problem is on the power driver board; if the fuse doesn't blow then you likely have a short on the playfield, this can be further isolated to flashers or solonoids by reconnecting one jack at a time.
Here is the schematic to help you troubleshoot this:

Good Luck!

Thank you for the awesome write up and diagram!
Will go through step by step and report back.

#4 6 years ago

Pin_Guy

Results below:

2) Use your ohm measure the following:
With the RED lead on ground, place the black lead on J17-6 and J17-7 both points should measure around 2M ohms
MEASURED 1.8m and 1.7m
With the BLACK lead on ground, place the red lead on J17-6 and J17-7 both points should measure open.
MEASURED 9.7m and 9.7m
With the RED lead on J7-1, place the black lead on J17-6 and J17-7 both points should measure open
MEASURED 9.5m and 9.1m
With the BLACK lead on J7-1, place the red lead on J17-6 and J17-7 both points should measure around 2M ohms.
MEASURED 1.5m and 1.9m

Going to try the next step now
If I turn the game on with J6&J7 unplugged and the fuse doesn't blow, is it OK to plug them in one at a time with the game on to see which one causes it to blow?

#7 6 years ago

Pretty sure I just found the problem.
The Destroy The Ring flasher socket has a loose connection.
I pulled the bulb out, which releases the spring pressure and sandwiches the connector, and everything is working fine now.
Played 3 games, no issues.
Tested the socket, no short.
Going to repair/replace the socket and see if the fuse blows again.
Thanks everyone for all the great advice!

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Glad you got it fixed and thanks for updating this post.

Thanks for the assist, I will post a pic of the flakey socket when I get back home. I'm sure others will have this issue at some point.

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