Lost World
Bally, 1978I bought a Lost World, and the power switch was missing. I've attempted twice now to wire it and very clearly I don't know what I'm doing. Am I using the right type of switch? Any help appreciated. Attached down below is schematics, along with the first attempt I made at wiring it up (which lead to smoke coming off the butt connected wires of the load side of the line filter lol).
20201028_190150 (resized).jpg20201028_194629 (resized).jpg20201028_194633 (resized).jpgDoes vid's guide help any ?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Does vid's guide help any ?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide
LTG : )
This is for wall plugs, which I believe I have wired in correctly (I bought a whole new cord, and I just soldered ground, hot and neutral onto the line filter the same way as the old cord). What I need is assistance on the On/Off switch wiring
Quoted from Knxwledge:This is for wall plugs, which I believe I have wired in correctly (I bought a whole new cord, and I just soldered ground, hot and neutral onto the line filter the same way as the old cord). What I need is assistance on the On/Off switch wiring
Let me know if you need me to check continuity or polarity.
16039416688096266401268261023437 (resized).jpgQuoted from iamdrunker:Let me know if you need me to check continuity or polarity. [quoted image]
I bought a 2-prong (or 2-wire) switch, and that's why it's not working. Thank you very much, I will most likely buy a replacement line filter as well since there's a high chance I blew it up
Quoted from iamdrunker:It's a single throw, Dbl pole switch. like you're schematic shows. If I'm reading that right.
I had it wired like this:
1 wire of the switch, both neutral wires (one for the service switch, one for the line filter), and the blue wire
1 wire of the switch, both hot wires (one for the service switch, one for the line filter), and the yellow wire
Here's the switch I'm currently using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IYKSLCG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
That switch has 3 positions (ON-OFF-ON).
You want a switch with 2 positions (ON-ON) where you don't use the second ON position - one of these will do:
http://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Toggle-position-mounting-terminal/dp/B01MSWTEB0
http://www.amazon.com/GAMA-Electronics-Toggle-Switch-DPDT/dp/B001PNIKEY
http://www.amazon.com/Morris-70130-Toggle-Switch-Terminals/dp/B005GDG1A4
Quoted from Quench:That switch has 3 positions (ON-OFF-ON).
You want a switch with 2 positions (ON-ON) where you don't use the second ON position - one of these will do:
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
Thank you. Then how do I hook up the wires? Same as the factory one (in the picture posted by iamdrunker)?
Quoted from Knxwledge:Thank you. Then how do I hook up the wires? Same as the factory one (in the picture posted by iamdrunker)?
Please be very careful here, the way you wired that first switch would have blown the house fuse.
iamdrunker has his power switch wired to match factory, but it only shows part of the story. If other wiring on your game has been incorrectly wired (i.e. your power cable/plug or the connections to the EMI filter) you could have issues.
Put some heatshrink tubing over the power switch connections so you don't accidentally touch the connections and get zapped.
Essentially the wire from the active (hot) pin on the power plug must reach the final destination of J2 pin 6 on the rectifier board.
J2 pin 7 is the neutral (return) wire to your power plugs neutral pin.
If you're not aware, the wire colors are coded on the schematics:
Quoted from Quench:Please be very careful here, the way you wired that first switch would have blown the house fuse.
iamdrunker has his power switch wired to match factory, but it only shows part of the story. If other wiring on your game has been incorrectly wired (i.e. your power cable/plug or the connections to the EMI filter) you could have issues.
Put some heatshrink tubing over the power switch connections so you don't accidentally touch the connections and get zapped.
Essentially the wire from the active (hot) pin on the power plug must reach the final destination of J2 pin 6 on the rectifier board.
J2 pin 7 is the neutral (return) wire to your power plugs neutral pin.
If you're not aware, the wire colors are coded on the schematics:
[quoted image]
Here's how my EMI filter's wired. The Blue wire coming off the fliter is crimped to the black wire that leads to the switch, and the Brown wire coming off the filter is crimped to the white wire that leads to the switch.
20201029_142831 (resized).jpg20201029_142833 (2) (resized).jpgQuoted from Knxwledge:Here's how my EMI filter's wired. The Blue wire coming off the fliter is crimped to the black wire that leads to the switch, and the Brown wire coming off the filter is crimped to the white wire that leads to the switch.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Here's mine.
1604012306375123895645813764452 (resized).jpgQuoted from Knxwledge:Thanks. Do you know how to check if a filter's bad? Maybe I should just assume mine is since I saw smoke coming out of the crimped wires lol
I don't know. I would have to surf around. Knowing me, I would have had one comming before the smoke cleared.
Quoted from Knxwledge:Do you know how to check if a filter's bad? Maybe I should just assume mine is since I saw smoke coming out of the crimped wires lol
I would replace the EMI filter if it smoked.
The next thing is to check that the power plug is wired properly so that the "hot" wire is on the "hot" pin, etc. See the link posted by LTG above.
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Ramona, CA