Have you worked through the 'Snagger Motor OPTO Board / Micro Switches Adjustment Procedure" in the manual?

Oh. Could it be as simple as a reversed connector or the motor wired backwards, sending the opposite signals so the snagger is working completely opposite?

Hello all LWJP fans and owners. I have one coming soon that is going to require a lot of work and am hoping someone here can help me out. This machine is missing the front half of the baby T-rex egg and I would like to recreate it. Does anyone have one that they could loan me so that I can make a mold and cast a new one? I would also make extras for anyone else that needs it. I know this is a rare part and I would take great care with it. Is there anyone here that I could borrow one from?

The snagger on this one is completely dismounted so the next project will to rebuild that.

Thank you Darscot and TheArrrrrcade for your egg-loan offers! I will PM you both to make arrangements. Giving you an egg out of the batch that I make is the least that I can do thank you for helping.

Is there anyone else out there that would like to be on the list for one of these?

Yes, I got an egg and a mold kit but haven't got the guts up to try it yet. I'm going to the local model making supply shop this weekend to ask about any tips, tricks, and materials recommendations for something this thin. I want it to be able to last and would like to make it thicker to take ball hits as well as stay attached to the brackets. The project is moving, albeit slowly.

Who else needs these Snagger gear train parts? I'd like to put together a group order for some rare parts in the Snagger assembly that aren't available at the usual places. The parts are:

Part #530-5478-00 'Pulley - Timing Belt' (item 5a on page 79 of the manual), This is the smaller pulley (2 required) that is connected by the flat toothed black belt:
530-5478-00, Pulley - Timing Belt, $17 each

Part #530-5481-02 'Gear' (item 9 on page 79 of the manual), This is the toothed gear (2 required) on the motor and Snagger assembly that is connected by the 'Timing Chain' belt:
530-5481-02, Gear, $27 each

Part #545-5820-02 'Timing Chain' (item 8 on page 79 of the manual), which is the orange'ish belt that looks like a ladder and connects the toothed pulley on the motor to the Snagger assembly:
545-5820-02, Timing Chain, $30 each

The Gear and Timing Chain are a custom size with a minimum order of 5 and will take about 4 weeks to build. The pulley has a minimum order of 3. I hope to place the order within in a week or so, with the entire order to ship when everything is fabricated. I’ll then ship them out using standard USPS for whatever that costs.

Pulley, $17 each + postage (minimum order of 3 required, I need 2)
Toothed Gear, $27 each + postage (minimum order of 5 required, I need 1)
Timing Chain, $30 each + postage (minimum order of 5 required, I need 1)

Who else needs these parts?

Great! Here is the list so far (2/6/19):

Toothed Gear:
J-Freeze

Timing Chain:
J-Freeze
Pinballlew

Twitami - Do you want one of each or a belt and a pair of each pulley and gear?

Darscot - Got you down for one of each

Got you down for one of each, Darscot .

Got you down for one of each, @ericc123.

That puts me at a point that I'm good placing the order by the end of the week. If anyone else is on the fence for any of these parts then please speak up by Thursday night! Here is who I have down for what before postage:

J-Freeze ($57): 1 Timing Chain, 1 Toothed Gear
Pinballlew ($57): 1 Timing Chain, 1 Toothed Gear
twitami ($74): 1 Belt Pulley, 1 Timing Chain, 1 Toothed Gear
Darscot ($74): 1 Belt Pulley, 1 Timing Chain, 1 Toothed Gear
Ericc123 ($74): 1 Belt Pulley, 1 Timing Chain, 1 Toothed Gear

I'm getting closer to trying this egg recreation. I was able to find a new egg set from the one run that Stern did several years ago and will be using it for the mold. The front half will be first, and if that goes well then I'll give the back half a go. Pictures of the original egg look to be made of fiberglass and are fairly thick but the layers have cracked and splintered from repeated beatings. The repros that I bought are pretty thin and seemingly brittle plastic that I can't imagine lasting very long. I will be making them thicker from the inside to preserve the dino egg texture on the outside and am using a resin that claims to "really take a beating and offer exceptional abrasion resistance", so that should be good! The egg will be opaque white, which is the color of the Stern repros and the color that I assume they originally were. The project is moving...

Sure thing, @pinballlew.

I placed the order for the parts today but have received no confirmation yet. I'll update everyone when I have it. Have a great weekend!

The parts have been ordered, confirmation has been received, and the belt pulleys have already shipped. For those who are getting the belt pulley - Do you want me to send them to you immediately after I receive them or wait until I have everything to send at once? The remaining parts are scheduled to be complete and shipping to me around the end of March. Pinsiders who ordered the belt pulley are:

twitami : 1 Belt Pulley
Darscot : 1 Belt Pulley
Ericc123 : 1 Belt Pulley

Let me know if you want the belt pulley now or later. If you want it now there would be the extra postage.

Work on the egg repro is progressing slowly. I have what I need and I've decided on what method to use. Now to actually try...

That's cool.

Sounds like a plan. We can play some pinball.

Noted.

The belt pulleys have arrived.

twitami , Darscot , Ericc123

LWJP belt pulley (resized).JPG

Yes, these were in stock but they had to fabricate the other two which should be competed around the end of March.

The Timing Chains have arrived. J-Freeze Pinballlew twitami Darscot Ericc123

Interestingly they are blue, which is pretty cool, reminds me of dinosaur colors:

545-5820-02, Timing Chain, $30

Hey twitami , I still need the toothed gear and then can complete everyone's order. I hope to have an updated ETA for it this week.

J-Freeze Pinballlew twitami Darscot Ericc123

I should have the toothed gear the week of April 17 and will then be ready to ship out to everyone.

J-Freeze Pinballlew twitami Darscot Ericc123

I received the toothed gear and am ready to mail out to everyone. I'll be sending you a PM with the $ amount including $6 postage, which should be pretty close to actual postage. If it is significantly more or less when I take them to the post office I'll let you know and we can work it out. Darscot - You had mentioned a local pickup in Seattle. I help put on the Northwest Pinball and Arcade Show (http://www.nwpinballshow.com) and will be there all three days at the end of the month if you want to meet up to grab these.

LWJP parts kern (resized).JPG

Thanks and you're welcome, guys. I am happy to be able to contribute to keeping our machines going.

Hey Ericc123 , would you please PM me your address? It wasn't in the PayPal info.

J-Freeze Pinballlew twitami Darscot Ericc123

I got all the parts mailed out today. $6 was about right for the average on it all so I'm good if you're good. Now let's get some pics of your snagger rebuilds. I really like the way that the new toothed belt matches the color scheme of the snagger stickers over the original red one. Does anyone have a lead on the snagger stickers without getting the whole set? Mine are pretty jacked. Here's my rebuilt snagger:

IMG_6187 (resized).jpg

IMG_6188 (resized).jpg

I will have one available if you screw yours up. It has damage at the entrance though.

I’m finally starting to put mine back together. 092DCD1B-4C20-4B9E-8C21-832EFE920980 (resized).jpeg

And I can’t believe that no one has posted a picture of this Easter egg under the apron...D06398E1-2D3D-48BB-B1E8-F2F2219537FD (resized).jpeg

Are you using coarse-thread wood screws or fine-thread machine screws? Looks like there are brackets under there so the original screw was likely a 6/32" machine screw. I would try 1/8" or 1/4" long 6/32 machine screws with nylock nuts, putting the screw in from the bottom and the nut on top. That will be your lowest profile way to do it.

Put a philips bit in a 1/4" socket to hold it beneath and you should be good to tighten the nut from the top:

socket driver (resized).jpeg

Or get one of these handy Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting sets:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6 data-aspect="571/407" data-sizes="auto" data-srcset="https://imgproxy.pinside.com/1Y7sYUpzShGqIuofbS3Xh4VaqDGX-g0Uuije3McfKKc/rs:fit:1024/q:85/fn:Pinside_forum_5202186_0/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tL2EvMjgvY2IvYTI4Y2JhM2Y2MmZmM2FjZmM3NDcwMzNjOGExODlkMTYzMDYxZDQ0NC5wbmc 1024w,https://imgproxy.pinside.com/HfmzOCdqjV8omk65K3YPI5Kw0rzeyVgiOESjNm1TGTQ/rs:fit:512/q:85/fn:Pinside_forum_5202186_0/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tL2EvMjgvY2IvYTI4Y2JhM2Y2MmZmM2FjZmM3NDcwMzNjOGExODlkMTYzMDYxZDQ0NC5wbmc 512w,https://imgproxy.pinside.com/Ee8mmQfebGQQUAN6o1VtYAGVK0IxgoKPwFsOz1tEATE/rs:fit:320/q:85/fn:Pinside_forum_5202186_0/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tL2EvMjgvY2IvYTI4Y2JhM2Y2MmZmM2FjZmM3NDcwMzNjOGExODlkMTYzMDYxZDQ0NC5wbmc 320w" data-src="https://imgproxy.pinside.com/nzMVAv2wDCZz47KBz7EI8dcrlM51mtZZYKLOxsWBZVk/rs:fit:800/q:85/fn:Pinside_forum_5202186_0/aHR0cHM6Ly9vLnBpbnNpZGUuY29tL2EvMjgvY2IvYTI4Y2JhM2Y2MmZmM2FjZmM3NDcwMzNjOGExODlkMTYzMDYxZDQ0NC5wbmc" />https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6

Congrats.

I'm missing the gate at the end of the shooter lane. I have the bracket that it mounts to. Is this the gate that I need (pic below)? Can someone please take a pic of that area so I can fabricate it correctly? Thanks!

detail (resized).jpeg

*NEVERMIND*

RTFM, man. Page 58 "Playfield - General Parts"; part #535-5307-03.

Seasons Greetings and Merry Holidays, LWJP fans. I'm continuing to work through my container project pin and am looking for a few decals - one for the left ramp (curled while flame polishing) and the two on the drop target. Does anyone have these left from a full set that I could grab? BTW, the replacement egg project is not dead and I hope to get to it the first part of next year.

decals I'm hoping for

Sweet. Thanks, Darscot. My Photoshop skills are rudimentary at best but this whole pinball thing is about figuring this sh!t out.

Does the bottom of the front sticker really just hang down off of it?

Decal complete. Thanks a lot Darscot for the scans.

FB5FBB33-B816-4345-931C-79AD7D5384D2 (resized).jpegB4CE2391-463E-4112-B66B-41AF2046A4C4 (resized).jpeg

Hey The Lost World Jurassic Park fans. I'm continuing to work through this container game and have now run into fuse F20 blowing when the Snagger PF magnet engages. The coil measures about 3 ohms (Marcos lists it as 4.3 ohms), and the diode attached to fuse for the magnet under the PF tests fine. I've been to Pinwiki for how to test MOSFET Q14 for the magnet but I'm not sure how to use this to determine if Q14 is bad or not. Can anyone provide some clarity on how to figure out what is going wrong to blow fuse F20 when Q14 fires for the magnet?

The fuse doesn't blow with J9 disconnected, so maybe it's a bad magnet or coil? How likely is that?

Work on the back up egg has begun...

LWJP Egg 1 (resized).jpg

Magnet Fuses - If you run the snagger playfield magnet or orbit magnet test more than 3 or 4 times in a row does either your local 3A slow blow magnet fuse or driver board F20 3A slow blow fuse (covers both magnets) blow? Seems like it shouldn't blow ever unless there is an issue. The diodes at the magnet fuses test good and the magnet coils test good (4.5 - 4.5 ohms). Seems like the fuse value is low, similar to the ring magnet in Lord of the Rings that needs a 5A fuse instead of the 4A. I'm thinking of putting 4A fuses in all three locations. Thoughts?

Hey all. My The Lost World Jurassic Park is getting close to being done. Playfield magnets are grabbing and holding balls after upping the fuses to 4A SB and the Snagger is snagging them. The last issue is the drop target infront of the snagger - it tends to rapid fire a few or several times when resetting to the up position. It seems like the coil is too powerful. I'll try some adjustment of the microswitch in the mech that registers the target up or down. Anyone else had to address this issue and have some advise?

I also have the parts kit to add the second channel of audio - should I be looking forward to good stereo sound?

Not that I've seen. I'd be ok without the insert with a speaker instead.

So, THIS GAME IS HARD! Particularly due to these modular stand up targets. They fire the ball right back at the flippers with absolutely no loss of speed. This is so different than any other game I have owned. So different and unenjoyable that I'm considering replacing them with standard targets that have the foam rebound damper. Plus, they are expensive to replace! Thoughts anyone?

The red Raptor targets don't bother me since they are an an oblique angle and don't fire back at the flippers, though the 'clack' sound they make when hit sounds cheap. It's the green Site B targets that draw my ire. They aren't too difficult to find unless you want to retain their translucent look instead of solid green. Zitt has green translucent target replacements at pinballmods.com but not in the 1/2" x 1" oblong shape. I have a PM to him asking about it...

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/replacement-parts-oblong-target-blade-p-57.html

If you look at the Color drop down - you'll see that clear green is available.

Interesting. Pics on the internet show and mine came with all green. The pop caps are clear. The mounting screws are on the target-side of the switches so i believe that is front mount.

My metalwork is not great looking and after seeing Cary Hardy's latest episode I'm considering having it power coated. Any input on color choice? I'm thinking a dark orange or hammer-tone dark green.

I'm planning on having this apron card with the logo, from the thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only/page/8#post-5208525

107ef9e260de1704428846861df0e9ec15bd00ca (resized).jpg

I'm working on reproductions of both halves of the egg. It's been slow going with other projects happening but i'm getting there.

An egg set was just listed on eBay with a starting bid of $199(!!!).

My machine was performing a ball search occasionally after locking a ball with the Snagger and not popping it out of the egg. I've spend a lot of time getting the Egg trough switch positioned, shaped, and working properly so thought that the ball wasn't pressing it in to trigger the egg kick out. I would raise the playfield then the ball would come out. Yesterday I noticed that I was only getting a 3-ball multiball, then after my last ball the launcher would shoot out 3 balls. Hmm, where is the 4th ball? Apparently the game was making do with 3 but then trying to find the 4th between games. Very interesting! I took a closer look around the playfield and found the 4th ball nestled inside the Humvee against the back of the Snagger. Turns out the ball never dropped through the playfield into the subway. So I lowered the Snagger, pulled the Humvee, and replaced the two rear-most Snagger bracket screws with posts and rings. See pics. Has anyone else encountered this or does your machine already have some sort of ball block installed here?

Oh no! The Snagger's got my ball!

I've got a Patchi.

IMG_8353 (resized).jpg

And a purple Add Time.

IMG_8354 (resized).jpg

Ha! I ran out of hot glue over the weekend to finish up the front-half mold but should have it today. Fingers crossed that I have enough silicone in the beginner's mold-making kit...

I'm pretty much done with the front half of my egg repro. The only small issue is that there are tiny air bubbles in the final casting that I can't eliminate without spending a considerable amount of $ on an air compressor and pressure vessel. Take a look at this photo and weigh in on your interest or input. The original egg is on the left and the repro is on the right. My next test is to brush on some resin on the inside after the egg comes out of the mold in order to fill them in and add a little extra thickness. The resin is extremely strong and will bend in half without cracking. Ball drop tests are next and I'm starting on the mold for the back half of the egg this weekend.

Egg front half

Thanks! For anyone interested, send me a PM and tell me if you want a front ($45), back ($45), or a set with both ($70), shipping via Priority Mail included.

The magnet letting go of the ball indicates that the motor is getting back to the 'Home' position and tripping the opto to turn the magnet off, so it's the belts and/or pulleys that are slipping.

Hello fellow The Lost World Jurassic Park owners, fans, and fixers. I have completed my first round of reproduction eggs. The molds were created from the original egg set and came out great, retaining all of the original texture. The rear half did end up a bit wider than the original but I will be making another mold of it and will ship it to anyone who purchases this version for the shipping cost. The complete front/back set is $70, and either a front or back half is $45, including shipping within the USA. PM me if interested!

LWJP eggs top (resized).jpeg

LWJP eggs inside (resized).jpeg

LWJP eggs bottom (resized).jpeg

Don44 - Thank you for the pics, it looks great on your machine!

Thanks, @arolden!

You, sir, need a new egg! I know a guy who can help with that...

That start button doesn't have a light in it. If it did it would have tabs on the side.

Does that drop coil fire in test mode?

Remove the screws holding the snagger mounting brackets to the top of the playfield. This will allow you to lower the mech and take the tension off the timing chain. Make sure that you have the mech either completely raised or lowered (in the menu) when putting the chain back on so everything is aligned correctly.

Screen Shot 2021-04-19 at 10.04.46 AM (resized).png

You shouldn't have to take it apart to get that belt back on the motor. Taking the screws out of the brackets that hold the assembly to the playfield should provide enough play. Put the belt on the motor gear first and then onto the snagger gear. Once put back together you get to go through the process of adjusting it all again - Wee!

I recommend making the sure the belt is off the motor, turn the machine on, do the snagger test until it should be flat on the playfield and immediately turn the machine off, then get the belt on and everything attached, turn the machine back on and let it go home, now commence to running through the snagger test and adjustment from the manual. This is what worked for me and I recall having to manually move the snagger one 'click' as described in the manual to get it perfect.

"Fellow Pinsider" here! I'm looking into offering the pulley, gear, and chain again and will post as I get info. I will need get a minimum of 5 each in order to get them. Here are the parts:

Part #530-5478-00 'Pulley - Timing Belt' (item 5a on page 79 of the manual), This is the smaller pulley (2 required) that is connected by the flat toothed black belt:
0bd5e3b16a1e2f4298ffd6d0afa8c492efe542a4 (resized).png
Part #530-5481-02 'Gear' (item 9 on page 79 of the manual), This is the toothed gear (2 required) on the motor and Snagger assembly that is connected by the 'Timing Chain' belt:
a16b494d52f6f75433d074208470eaf1a7cf3ebf (resized).png
Part #545-5820-02 'Timing Chain' (item 8 on page 79 of the manual), which is the orange'ish belt that looks like a ladder and connects the toothed pulley on the motor to the Snagger assembly:
f9b15f714bb9c2726af5b85a7604f8362ad0d890 (resized).png

Note: the Timing Chain will be a blue color, not red:
1f3d9bdc4ab794dd71fb80e5bd1dd7d4f8e3b93a (resized).jpg

I also have a few sets of replacement eggs if anyone is interested. The complete front/back set is $70, and either a front or back half is $45, including shipping within the USA. PM me if interested!
4d6c2381905f0a32bcad1b3de7e4bad0181dd043 (resized).jpeg
6b9c883d8f376ac4dc48dd1bc52a6fd641d4d49f (resized).jpeg

Gotchya!