Here are the videos:

Motor Test

Coil 7 test / pick up magnet

full snagger test

K. I'll try adjusting the opto to stay "engaged" longer while down.

Before i shipped the boards out, I swear it worked, but cannot 100% verify. It worked since I purchased, I just had issues with the drop target. I lowered the snagger, took apart the grabber and verified the wires are soldered nicely to the coil. I looked as much as I could at those wires going near the gears and hole in pf and I don't see a break but you never know.

I just find it weird it works in test...so this leads me to think that opto you mentioned for down, OR there is a logic on the board that is having issues (chip level). Mmmmm. I'll update with the opto adjustment. I appreciate it! Hope that is it, kinda fast so seems like it.

Update quick.

I removed the drop assembly and ran the motor test. The opto/blade barely hit on the down opto and it pops back to going up. I think it is the down motor switch that needs to be adjusted to allow it to stay/rotate down a tad more.

Had to leave for dinner, but right before I left I removed the opto board and tweaked the switch once, put back and tested. Looks better in the opto but I'm going to tweak it one more little bit so it blocks the opto nice and I'll retest. Will be tonight!

Adjusted the physical motor switch, the motor nub doesn't hit it for sure, as the opto switch is being tripped. Still not working. The blade breaks the opto connection so that is in theory working. Pickup magnet still works in test by itself.

Are you saying when I run the Snagger Test, I can hold the black button until the ball is supposed to be picked up? That would be interesting to see...

Oh, yeah in coil test 7, I can hold start and the ball stays magnitized.

There is no battery damage, and boards were just gone through again. Thinking of sendinf the board back to verify the logic on q7, r7 and back to pin 16 on u1

Oh good thought. I'll go check

Just the ball trough switches, trough opto for upkick and home on snagger. All looks Normal.

IMG_3216 (resized).JPG

Do you mean the coil test to make the target drop or reset? If so, both of those work. Also if I go to switch test and drop the target with my finger, it registers that switch.

I didn't have help so the video starts at the lower pf magnet, but the upper magnet and the ball rolling down works

I just looked at my upper magnet as I am testing a lot for this snagger issue. My core looks exactly the same with the ridges and also the top not being cut. If you nail an outer orbit shot the ball kinda jumps off of it. Although being as such it does not allow for ball hang ups, soooo idk seems "normal"

Can someone snap a pick (if they have the newest rom set on their machine) of the check sum numbers they get on boot up? I'll take the pic of mine when I get home and post as well. I think gameplay rom is at 2.2

Mmmmm good good. I also thought, I should lower the snagger THEN test for continuity at the coil leg itself back to the head to make sure that it isn't cut off while lowered. Now I am looking forward to working on it tonight I emailed Clive and he said it didn't seem like a board logic issue. So you may be onto something pinballew

Guess what.... lowered the snagger, took apart the top part to get to the coil

Continuity:
Violet/brown : good, even back to j8
Brown 20v : bad to first plug under pf. From 1st plug to J7 was good.

Looks like I'll have to pull some new wire/shrink tube.

Like you said, must be a break under the insulation and the 20v wire is a lower gauge, so thicker.

IMG_3220 (resized).JPG

So nice to have another pair of eyes and brain to help, thanks! I OCD hate not having the right "color" for the wire(s) but I just need to get some correctly gauged wire and solder and stab into the connector and not worry about color....it will be covered in shrink wrap anyway hahah.

I found some wire in the what I think are the correct gauges, but I ordered a new connector from PBL and they shipped it a day later then I figured so I bet I won't get it until Monday? Also shrink tube.

So I'm pondering just soldering temp wire but not wanting to do it all over again pondering waiting :/

Parts came today

made the new harness, same length, used shrink tube and the new header. Had to double check the brown 20v wire seating in the connector as it was sorta "big gauge" for the plug. Tested continuity, all good.

Now.... putting new wires in, pita.

Tips:
Go into test, lower snagger. Power off
Unscrew the snagger, 4 small philips
Go into test, raise snagger to home. Power off
Now you have full access to the backside (solder) of the coil legs and wires.
Unsolder the two.
In this raised position the wire is a straight pull down.

Reinstall
I tinned the wire tips
Snaked a long zip tie down as the wires sit on the very far right, under screws.
Taped 1 wire at a time and snaked them up.
Resoldered the wires to the coil legs
Snagger test to lower onto the cover.
Aligned and screwed the cover on.

Do coil test.
Jump for joy

My snagger test worked! Snagger pick up coil/mag picks up when snagger is fully lowered.

Thanks for the help and troubleshooting

Question.

So i have two legs where the leg levelers are all the way in and two with them unscrewed as far as they can. I remember this when I bought it and I think it was because the game had too much angle so the ball would just rip around unless you put the longer at the front.

Anyone else have that?

Sorry forgot to reply.

99% sure the fronts were all the way when I got it and now they are in the back making the game a little too steep?
The orbit shot jumps and the ramp shots even jump and I never remember those ever being an issue.

I've had it at MGC and maybe circus , so I think I have the legs backwards but curious if anyone else had leg level like that?

mmmmmm.

Okay so I've had snagger drop target issue and full snagger magnet failure fixed. pinballlew helped on my snagger magnet, so I think with all the help we can get you up and running.

I also had the endless 2 ball multiball, mine was a board issue. I had sent mine off to clive @ coin op cauldron as I dont have a desolder station yet. with a 20 yr old board set, not a bad idea to have them refurbed though so I was fine sending mind off. If you have it off, there could be a switch or other thing tripping that is thinking you are getting a "mode", or there is a board issue delayed by something else. Try a switch test that just shows what is being tripped and see if it is more then the opto's in the trough. Could be the trough or shooter lane switch isn't registering.

I have the Coin Taker kit in my LWJP. However if you do go LED I would suggest a "non ghosting" so you don't get the bad flicker.

The snagger....ohhh man. Okay so there are multiple adjustments for different issues.

The opto is for the game to know if the snagger is at up or down position.

The belt adjustment is only if your snagger is not actually going up or down all the way (I think).

The magnet that picks up the ball in the snagger, if working on/off is most likely the wiring for that coil is breaking inside the insulation or the legs of the coil, have bad solder connection. I just had to fully rewire mine. would magnet work in the "home" up position but not when it went down to the pf in test.

If the drop target in front of the snagger does not work correctly, the snagger will not work. The drop target has to go up/down by itself in test as sometimes the target needs to lower itself for the snagger to drop. If the target cannot lower itself (small coil on drop mech) then the snagger cannot lower.

It is one amazing lock toy, however it is complicated until you actually tear into it.

you can adjust the snagger magnet/coil closer/futher if you open it up, the screws loosen and you can move the magnet closer or further and retighten.

As for those optos....sorry there are also "cherry" switches that click too. You may have to adjust those, the switches are the fail safe I think for if the opto fails the switch says NOPE not further then this position. so if they click too early, it would stop the snagger motor from going further.

Ya pinballlew is right. Go into test and the LWJP test you can test to you hearts content the snagger and drop and figure out where the failure is. Make sure the pull the high power coil trip on the coin door when you have it open so the game leaves the high power on for the magnets and coils.

ALso if you take video of the issues we can see and help more too

Shoot I was going to look in the menu for you and see what I can find. I'll do it in the am.