I agree it's a harder game. Mine wasn't setup up that great to begin with. I tuned it quite a bit to play ok. Still my high score is under 5 million. The egg scoop on mine was always STDM until I dialed it in.

With a ColorDMD, I hope you had a chance to glance up, it was fun to color those scenes. I have to admit I often wondered if anyone would actually see them. I know I never got there legit, just glass off to capture them.

I did consciously try to take a few peeks at the dmd while it was going on.
Now that I've done it I can do it with the glass off just to watch the dmd.
Great work on the coloring!

Does anyone know if there are full cabinet decals available anywhere? On Ebay I can find almost every other game ever made. No Lost World.

Thanks

Following as also keen for full cabinet decals as ours really worn out.

I am also interested in artwork. I could find artblades for inside the cab but nothing for the outside.

Silly question, is the egg supposed to close completely? Is it easy to adjust to make it close.

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Mine closes completely. I rebuilt that egg a few months ago and didn't really see any adjustment. Let me take a look a closer look at mine and I'll report back soon.

There's no adjustment as far as I can tell. The front of the egg attaches to a hinge which opens under gravity when the baby dino raises up inside the back of the egg. Maybe you can bend that tab to get it close up more? Here's what mine looks like inside and out.

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Ok will give it a crack on weekend and try bending the bracket up.

Big thank you for photo.

Another thing I thought of was maybe the baby dino isn't going all the way down. You want to check the range of motion and ensure that it's going all the down to allow the egg to close.

All fix and just had to slightly bend the bracket under the egg up a tad. Egg closes great now and big thank you for the tip.

New owner of a RE import lost world machine. The cabs in rough shape but the playfield looking solid aside from a few wear spots. Hoping to sand down repaint and find some decent graphics for the sides. I was wondering if anyone knows much about the magnet hold in the back playfield and if replacements can be found and if its supposed to be flush with the playfield or stick up. I have a picture of mine which looks pretty worn down.

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It should be flush.
Replacements can be bought, pinball life, and marcos should have them.
You'll have to be careful removing that one, it can be tough to get out when its mushroomed like that.

I've been looking for cabinet decals for awhile. Report back if you find them.

In your case with the edges so peened over I would recommend taking the cord out through the top. This will prevent any damage to your playfield. See picture for bottom of unit.

You can loosen the jam nut, and spin the core out the top with a screw driver.

I was lucky that not much or any loctite was applied to my core and I could spin it out.

Then I just put the core on the lathe and machined the top flat again.

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Took a look and im guessing its these threaded core plugs?

Thank you for the image and advice on how to remove it, The jam nut is on there super tight. hoping I get get it loosened later tonight and take that bolt off.

It is a threaded core so you can get it flush with the playfield, once you get it all fixed up.

It is very awkward to work on this playfield. I wish it had a different system to slide out and up.

Thanks for the advice, I got the core out and replaced. Over the winter I plan to strip the machine, fix up, sand and paint the cabinet, commission some custom artwork for the sides and put it all back together.

My timing belt in the snagger broke today. The black thin one in the front of snagger. Not the wide one that goes under the playfield. Wondering if anyone has replaced this before and has any pics, tips or other advice on the simplest way to replace the belt. The part is only 8 bucks at Marco so that's good.

Wondering if I should replace them both while I'm at it. But I'm a strong believer in if it ain't broke don't fix it!

Thanks!

I would order the other one with it just to have a spare on hand but if its working I wouldn't mess with it.

I just got mine replaced. I replaced both belts/chain whatever. It was so much fun!! I even replaced the wiring harness as a proactive measure. I had to drill out one of the stripped out timing chain set screws and rethread it. Deburred both gear shafts and polished. They were in awful shape. Now its back to normal but sometimes the loop magnet is not strong enough to catch the ball and it rolls past, or the snagger pf magnet will not catch and hold the ball. Like its weak or something. Never had that issue before. I can test the magnets in test mode and they hold strong. Im still scratching my head

Finally got around to replacing the black timing belt. Re-assembled the mech. Now what? Nothing happens and I can't get either of the two snagger tests to run. Is there a trick? Is there something I missed? I didn't touch anything under the playfield but everything looks ok after poking around.

No need to replace the other thicker timing belt. It is very robust. The thin black one is the one that get destroyed when things snag or go wrong.

Is the drop target lowered?

Does the screen show the snagger in the home positon?

Is the drop target lowered / down?

Does the screen show the home position of the snagger ? Did you change the belt with with snagger extended or in the up position?

Extended as that was where it ended up when the belt broke. Should I rebuild in the home position?

Extended is the way I change mine too.

When the belt is broken or stripped, I cut off the belt. Go into snagger test mode and operate the snagger motor until it activates the down opto (#36). Now I am ready to replace the belt in the extended position.

This way, if I am off a little bit I can follow the manual and make the new belt “click”
one tooth in the direction needed to have the timing correct for the snagger.

I have replaced my belt and the snagger is now going up and down however when the it tries to drop the ball into the truck the bottom section of snagger isn't close enough to the front of the truck for the ball to fall through the roof of the truck. I'm not seeing this "click" method in the manual. Which belt are you clicking one tooth to adjust. the red or the black?

Thanks!

The black belt. The rubber one is the belt you “click” one tooth.

In the manual it describes the one tooth click adjustment, it also gives an option to manipulate the opto board to align snagger.

I've owned this pin almost a year now. The play field is pristine, all mechs work 100%, and all the coils look like new. Snappy flippers, etc.

These are my thoughts.

Shots:. This game has nice geometry. Left orbit flows great, inner left orbit is attainable and satisfying. Left ramp is easy to hit, right ramp is a little more challenging but not that bad. Baby T-Rex scoop is accessable from both flippers. Right orbit is pretty tight and one of the hardest of the main shots. So there are 6 main shots. They all work well together and ramps are smooth and enjoyable.

Rules/code:. I never realized just how much bad rules and code could deflate the fun factor of a pin until I played this. It basically makes you hit harder and harder shots in each mode to progress, and it's extremely difficult to do so. To the extent that I have never beat more than 2 of the six modes necessary to get to the wizard mode San Diego. And what kills it all for me is the scoring. It's so unbalanced and frustrating. Jackpots should be called jacksquat, because that is what you get.

Sound:. Awful. Just abrasive. There are some great call outs and the music is ok, but the amount of compression reminds me of AM radio. I actually play with the sound off now and enjoy the pin more.

Toys:. The snagger is cool for about the first 2 times. The egg is fun, everyone seems to enjoy it. Two spinners are nice but the sfx are forgettable and they don't spin as long as I hoped. The shaker motor is great. Sounds and feels like the scenes from the movie of the T Rex foot steps. So many newer games over use them and shake the game too much. This is well done. The magnet in the orbit makes things interesting. The magnet for the snagger, when that activates grab a beer and take a drink. You have time.

Art: translight is cool, cabinet art is decent at best, play field is a mix of not bad and just not good.

Lighting. It's good. Nothing spectacular but I've seen worse.

Fun factor. It's a fun pin to play with guests, for a short period. If you are hard core and want to beat the game good luck. It gets old trying to chop wood and achieve what is needed to progress.

I wish we could get new code and sound. The groundwork is there for a really good pin, shots are great just not rewarded well in the code . Flippers and mechs are snappy and on par with any new Stern made today.

After all this talk, I feel I need a game or two and make sure I still want to keep her.

Great write up and I agree with you 100%. I have had this game for about a year but it's leaving today. I really wanted to enjoy and keep this game next to my JP3 but it just doesn't cut it and I have a buyer so off it goes. I'll be leaving the club today. Thanks to Stebel for the Snagger repair help.

I will miss all the Jeff Goldblum callouts, especially "Balls everywhere". Classic!

Honestly, this pin is a perfect candidate for a retheme. New sound and code could utilize the great layout and make a really huge difference. I hesitate only because mine is in such great shape.

Mine is not so great. Mechanically yes. Playfield and cabinet not so much. If it were in nicer condition I may have kept it.

My game has developed an issue where the ball trough mech does not kick the ball in the shooter lane. Its barley kicks over and over. Not a strong enough kick. I can us a jumper to r1 to activate q1 on driver and it works just fine. I even replaced u1 with no change. Also, R target for RAPTOR in switch test mode shows two switches. R switch #38 and not used #11? Any help would be appreciated. See video

I was able to swap cpu out with another and the problem went away. The issue is in the cpu somewhere.

Did this solve the raptor target issue also? So you swapped the board?

No I found a shorted diode in the R modular switch. I found the video super helpful when troubleshooting a switch matrix issue.

My eyes are now open and I have a better understanding of the switch matrix. Replaced the diode and all is good. One issue left is the PF magnet will rarely grab and hold the ball after being released by the loop magnet diverter. I am swapping coils today and if that dont work I will add more wire loops to the coil until it becomes strong enough to grab the ball.

FYI - I'm currently making a mod to help with speaker hum/buzz on this generation of boards (Sega / Stern Whitestar). I have a Simpsons Pinball Party, and the hum was bothering me. I ended up finding this pinside discussion (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-speaker-humbuzz-fixed) which describes how to make the mod and how they work. The first post on that page has a video showing the process. I have them on Simpson's and Ripley's and they help immensely. If you'd like a pair and don't have the time or tools to make them, I will ship a pair to your door for $22. If interested please direct message me as I'm not here often. Thank you

Anyone know where I can find a replacement Egg?

double post. bump

See post 424....

Pretty sure I got his last repro egg.

Thanks, I just sent him a PM

Hey everyone, hoping someone with a working JP Lost World can take a few pictures of the Snagger motor underneath the playfield to show all the wiring. Working on rebuilding a problematic Snagger and we think part of the issue was that it wasn’t wired correctly, and is possibly missing a capacitor somewhere on the motor. Any and all help is appreciated!!

There is a capacitor on the motor but I'm not sure it's needed. My timing belt broke. After I replaced the belt the snagger stopped working. I examined everything and realized something was missing from the motor. Looked in the manual and realized what it was. Replaced the cap and the snagger still didn't work. The game had disabled it to off. After turning back on in settings my snagger worked again. YMMV. Sorry. I sold my game and don't have pictures. Just saying that it does have one technically.