Is it a replacement lock that you bought somewhere, or an original lock?

If it's original, you'll probably either have to pick the lock or drill it out.

I'm guessing the easiest, quickest and cheapest fix will be to drill and then replace the lock.

You could try using keys from your other pins. Sometimes that works.

No need to drill. The star shape is called a security bit. I bought a whole set to get the size needed at home depot for around 10 dollars.

Definitely no need to drill out the lock. The screw is called a security torx screw and places like Sears, Harbor Frieght, and Home Depot all sell screw drivers that have the appropriate tip to unscrew the torx screw.

Here you go http://www.amazon.com/Security-Bit-Set-33-Pcs/dp/B00907ZCUW

To pick the lock.....go onto YouTube and do a search as there are plenty of "instructional videos" showing how to pick locks.

Link fixed: http://www.amazon.com/Security-Bit-Set-33-Pcs/dp/B00907ZCUW

don't drill, Geeezzz! safety torx set!

I have a similar problem on a machine I am getting ready to purchase and just found out that the owner does not have the keys anymore, and not only that but a key got broken off inside the lock on the backbox. It is the early SS game Amazing Spider-Man by Gottlieb. So in order for me to take possession and move the game, it looks like it would require drilling the lock to open the backglass so that connections can be taken apart and the entire backbox can be removed for transport.

I saw this game in person about a month ago for a brief period of time and didn't notice the broken key or think to ask if they had keys until later on. It is owned by a not-for-profit organization, so the person I am dealing with on it is the curator of the organization who knows little about pinball. The game is not currently working, but she said it was working when it was donated to them. So they played it for a while, something went wrong, and they have not hired anybody to fix it or diagnose the problem. My hope would be that it is a relatively simple fix, but I don't know that for sure. I do know that the playfield needs a good cleaning and the rubbers replaced, but aside from that the pin appears to be in decent shape. Just minor playfield wear, and the cabinet and backglass look fine. I believe that if everything was functioning properly, had new rubber, and was clean then it would be worth around $800 to $900. As-is I agreed to buy it for $500, but that was before I found out about needing to drill the lock. She did say that if I decide I don't want it now, it's OK and no hard feelings over it.

So my question would be whether or not I should still go through with this at $500 or ask for a further discount; what it will likely cost to replace both of the locks; what tools I should bring with me to remove the backbox and move the machine; and what is the safest method of drilling the lock since I have not had to do that before. As you can probably tell, I don't have much experience yet in moving or working on pins, so I figured that getting this one back in working order would be a good learning project for me, even if it takes me a lot of time. Eventually I want to own a larger collection, so I need to learn a lot of the basics in how to work on them and diagnose problems. I just figured this would be a good project to start with.

You may be able to get the key shank out with tweezers.
I have had to drill out a lock from an old pin before. Makes a mess but not difficult. Then again, it wasn't a Gottleib so I don't know if they are in a different, hard to reach position.
Locks cost about $3 each.
Take some open end wrenches and sockets in the 1/2", 9/16", 5/8" range plus your regular tools like screwdrivers.

if the key is broke off inside the lock you prob will not have to drill it. I have two locks with keys broke off inside them. All i do is press my thumb against lock and turn the way i would with a key. If the key is the right key then it will allready be hitting all the tumblers in the lock. Then you can replace it when you get it unlocked. If thumb doesnt work a flathead screwdriver will usually work as well.

I got a huge kit of various security bits on ebay for very cheap. But my default way is to pick it, never had a game that took more than 5 minutes. You can find lock pick kits online or easily and cheaply make your own with saw blades and a grinder.

Thanks, I'll sure do that. It sounds like as long as I am careful when drilling and don't damage the backbox, then the cost of replacement is negligible. I hate to ask for a further discount since they already came down from $600. If they can't find the keys between now and then I will still have to drill even if I can get the broken key out. I will sure bring tweezers and needle-nose pliers and see what we can do with it.

If the key is really jammed try some dry graphite lubricant spary with this method as well. It could be seized.

Yeah that would definitely be the best deal to get the broken key to go ahead and unlock it. It is a long drive to get there, so I will want to be prepared for drilling if necessary.

What do you guys mean no need to drill? The safety screws hold the lock mechanism in place, but the lock itself is still locked, holding the back glass in. I had a SMB I had to drill out. It had the torx screws, which I got out, but lock was still locked in place. Have I missed do something?

If you can get the key shank to turn and get the bbox open, you can easily remove the old core.

I think therez come confusion as to the status of this backbox lock the op is talking about.

If the backbox is currently still locked, I'm not sure how the torx tools will help get to the lock insides.

If ur backglass/translite and speakers have some looseness or wiggle-space, u may be able to "jiggy" them open while the lock is still locked.

Anyway, good luck with the lock.

Wait a few days and the key will show up.

The last machine that I picked up, I had to drill the backbox lock before I could load it. As long as the owner doesn't mind you hanging around for an extra 20-30 minutes while doing this, it's not bad. However, if the key is broken off in the lock, it may take longer since the key is made of tougher metal than the lock itself.

Start with maybe a 1/4" drill bit or so, or try to find a drill bit size that will drill into the lock without "catching" on key slot. Start drilling in the center of the lock. Then go up another few sizes and drill a larger hole. Keep doing that until you drill out the lock or run out of bits. You will only need to drill out the lock cylinder--not the ring surrounding it. And, only as far as the last key pin. If you're not sure how far you've drilled, just mark the drill bit with your finger before you pull it out, and then match it up to a key to gauge how far you've gone in. Typically, if you go in fairly quickly at first, and then stop, you've probably reached the end of the cylinder.

After the cylinder is drilled out, the key pins should have fallen out by this point, so you should be able to wedge a couple of screwdrivers in a scissor pattern and turn the cylinder to move the latch to the "unlock" position.

With some lock mechanisms, you can just knock the cylinder into the cabinet, but since the system 80 cabinet uses a latch bar, it may be easier to turn it.

When I picked up the machine that I had to drill the lock on, it was only the second time I'd ever had to drill out a lock before, so if you have a general grasp of how the lock is supposed to work, you should be fine.

Thanks everyone for the helpful information. I will put off the moving date by a few days and see if they can come up with the key. And that will actually work better for my buddy who is going there with me to help load it. Glad to know it's nothing worth backing out of the deal over.

The locking mechanism is generally held in with "tamper torx" security screws. The appropriate keys can be found at any ace hardware and are generally sold as a set for about $20.

backglass locked in place....remove torx screws, entire me hanism comes right out....remove backglass. I have a game with no key. I do this every time I need to get back there because I keep forgetting to order a new lock. It takes all of a minute and you don't need to muscle it out, just slides out. My game is a 2003 stern if that makes a difference.

Looks like there are two different eras of games being discussed in this thread--newer WPC machines that take torx screws, and older machines that just have a lock.

WOW!! Wouldnt have thought a newer stern key would open an older title like that!

yeah, just wait until people start losing the keys to the new sterns ST and newer....
That will SUCK!

sometimes that lock plate REALLY sticks after you take the torx out. I literally had to pry mine off my addams!

Well I picked up the Amazing Spider-Man on Saturday. We got very lucky and didn't have to drill, but I made sure I was prepared to just in case. The key was broken off in the lock on the backbox just like she said it was. I sprayed a little bit of lubricant on it. Couldn't get a grip with the needle-nose pliers, but after several attempts with the tweezers and help of a screwdriver it finally turned all the way to unlock it. After that it was a cinch to unhook everything and take off the backbox. Thanks again for the help.

Just to drill the locks out of 2 gottleibs to fold the heads to get them out of the previous owners basement , still finding shavings fun fun fun !!