Lord of the Rings
Stern, 2003So I noticed yesterday that my diverter didn't open up while playing War of the Ents and figured I'd check it out today. I open it up and sure enough, the wire on the right was no longer soldered to the coil. Easy enough. I soldered it back on, but the diverter still won't open up for the Orthanc shot. Any ideas what could be causing this?
Quoted from DCFAN:Check the fuses.
The ones on the I/O board, right?
Quoted from Kingoftron:Damn was hoping for something obvious.
You found a broken wire on the coil, perhaps there is another ?
The tiny wires from the coil to the coil lugs can break or crack. And unless you get in there and dig on them, you may not see it.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:You found a broken wire on the coil, perhaps there is another ?
The tiny wires from the coil to the coil lugs can break or crack. And unless you get in there and dig on them, you may not see it.
LTG : )
It does appear the there is a crack in the thin red wire, does it just need to be soldered up to where its cracked or does it need an all new coil?
Is the crack between the coil and the solder connection? If so you likely could carefully try to solder the broken area or use a jumper. If the fix fails then get a new coil.
Whatever you do, make sure not to short anything.
Coils are usually less than $20.
Quoted from Kingoftron:It does appear the there is a crack in the thin red wire, does it just need to be soldered up to where its cracked or does it need an all new coil?
You can solder it.
You do need to scrape or sand the red off so solder will stick to the copper wire.
LTG : )
Scraped of the red, soldered it to the copper wire, still a no go. Also don't quite understand the single coil test. It doesn't seem to be doing anything when I test it, but neither does any coil I try to test.
Quoted from Kingoftron:Scraped of the red, soldered it to the copper wire, still a no go. Also don't quite understand the single coil test. It doesn't seem to be doing anything when I test it, but neither does any coil I try to test.
There is a high power interlock on the coin door you need to enable if the coin door is open.
Did you do that ?
Next step would be ground the transistor metal tab of the non working coil. If it fires the you have a board issue. If it doesn't fire, then from the transistor legs to the coil you have a break.
Or try a different known good coil in that spot.
LTG : )
Quoted from Kingoftron:Scraped of the red, soldered it to the copper wire, still a no go. Also don't quite understand the single coil test. It doesn't seem to be doing anything when I test it, but neither does any coil I try to test.
Close the coin door in test, otherwise no coils will fire in test.
Quoted from TomGWI:Close the coin door in test, otherwise no coils will fire in test.
Or you can pull the white coin door switch out by hand to allow switch tests.
Quoted from Kingoftron:Looks like it's most likely a board issue. I just noticed the pops aren't firing either.
Did you see this part - just to be sure ?
There is a high power interlock on the coin door you need to enable if the coin door is open.
Did you do that ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Kingoftron:Are they all on that same fuse under the playfield?
Check fuse at F21
Quoted from Kingoftron:F12 is good, j10 is good, and all connections underneath are good. Love this hobbie sometimes.
Just to be sure - you pulled them and checked with a meter ?
If so, then the wires from each coil not working. Check continuity of each wire from the coil to the board, to rule out a break along the way.
LTG : )
On the plus side, I can still hit Orthanc from the back, the pops still count as hits, they're just not firing, and Barad Dur just insnt tipping over. At least all the items function until I can get to the bottom of this.
The right tower, diverter, and bumpers all have a common Yel-Vio wire to them. My educated guess is you have a loose wire if they all don't work and you pulled the fuse, check it with a meter and it buzzed that it was good. With the game off, I would look for a loose wire.
Quoted from Kingoftron:So I noticed yesterday that my diverter didn't open up while playing War of the Ents and figured I'd check it out today. I open it up and sure enough, the wire on the right was no longer soldered to the coil. Easy enough. I soldered it back on, but the diverter still won't open up for the Orthanc shot. Any ideas what could be causing this?
Hey if you still haven't figured this out send me a pm. I have a LOTR and can try to help.
Having no luck here. Replaced the fuses just in case and can't find a loose wire anywhere. Totally stumped.
That disconnected wire is most likely the disconnect of the 50 volts for the non-working coils.
I just checked the manual and the trough up-kicker and auto-launcher are tied to the same 50 volts as your non-working tower VUK, pop bumpers, and diverter.
Think of the wires as an in-and-out connection. 50 volts is connected to the up-kicker coil with the first wire (the yellow wire that is still connected) and the second wire (the broken one) connects the 50 volts to the next coil (one of the coils that is not working).
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Glendale, AZ