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Quoted from Quench:Agreed, likely the Q3 transistor is blown too. Grab some spares while you're buying parts: "TIP102" NPN darlington transistors.
Those resistors blew for a reason. Transistor Q3 drives the knocker coil in the cabinet that doesn't have a proper fuse. Check if that coil is shorted.
I ordered some TIP102 a while back so I'll do that aswell. Tks
Quoted from Tuukka:Yes, Future Spa uses the same boards.
Just make sure that if the repair kit is for CPU battery corrosion damage repair, you dont mix up the resistors on CPU and driver board, R16 on the CPU board is 2k and R16 on the driver board is 330 ohm.
TIP102 and 1N4007 are fine.
Ah. Good to know. Tks.
Update, the 2 diodes were fried and so was the transistor. Changed those and waiting on my 330 Ohms for R16. Hopefully she's good after that.
Quick question. Those blew for a reason. I've looked at pin wiki, manual, maybe I missed it but how do I check my voltages on my power supply. Basically what outputs am I looking for and where do I test them? Did I mention I'm new to this? Hahah
Quoted from Quench:A power supply issue would have caused many more transistor/resistor failures.
The knocker coil has had a short circuit that then caused the Q3 transistor to fail and short circuit. This put a high voltage/current through resistor R16 that caused it to burn out.
You need to do some investigation around the knocker coil in the lower right side of cabinet. Make sure the coil has a diode on it and the diode is correctly orientated. Feel free to post some pictures of that coil. That coil should measure around 11 ohms from memory.
Oh, PinWiki is a great resource if you haven't come across it - it lists the test point voltages.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern
Much appreciated
Quoted from Quench:A power supply issue would have caused many more transistor/resistor failures.
The knocker coil has had a short circuit that then caused the Q3 transistor to fail and short circuit. This put a high voltage/current through resistor R16 that caused it to burn out.
You need to do some investigation around the knocker coil in the lower right side of cabinet. Make sure the coil has a diode on it and the diode is correctly orientated. Feel free to post some pictures of that coil. That coil should measure around 11 ohms resistance from memory.
Oh, PinWiki is a great resource if you haven't come across it - it lists the test point voltages.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern
Are diodes all the same or do they have values like resistors?
Quick update, changed the bad diodes, resistors and transistors. Knocker looks OK but I haven't changed that diode yet. Quick boot up and I still only get 6 flashes from mpu but now she makes a short sound at the end. That wasn't there before.
20210902_115825 (resized).jpg20210902_115839 (resized).jpg20210902_115850 (resized).jpg20210902_115904 (resized).jpgQuoted from Quench:Resistor are non-directional - either way is ok.
Diodes on the other hand are directional, one end of the body usually has a band of color around it.I haven't experienced those particular ones go bad, they're usually rated for high voltage. You can check if it's short circuited with your multi-meter.
Missing the last MPU board LED flash usually means the 5 amp fuse at F4 on the rectifier board in the lower cabinet is blown.
Thanks again.
Quoted from Tuukka:Knocker coil looks OK - not burned out - and the diode is wired correctly (+43V on the banded side). So as Quench said, check the fuse. The MPU board expects to see "zero crossings", or alternating voltage, but if F4 is blown, they never appear.
Visually they all look ok, I didn't test them for continuity because I'm gonna change em all. Ordered a fuse kit. Hopefully that works.
Quoted from Quench:Are you referring to the replacement BR1 bridge rectifier job? It's not great - they used a bridge rectifier with lug connections instead of through hole leg connections.
My concern is the burn mark under the long white ceramic resistor, that's not normal. You should unsolder one of the legs of that resistor, bend it up and look at what's going on.
BTW, fuse F4 looks blown to me.
Good eyes. Yeah I noticed the black aswell. I'll take a look. R1- Resistor, 1 0°/~, 600 Ohm, 1 OW
Quoted from Quench:Are you referring to the replacement BR1 bridge rectifier job? It's not great - they used a bridge rectifier with lug connections instead of through hole leg connections.
My concern is the burn mark under the long white ceramic resistor, that's not normal. You should unsolder one of the legs of that resistor, bend it up and look at what's going on.
BTW, fuse F4 looks blown to me.
This guy I imagine?
Quoted from Quench:Yes, but I don't suspect it's bad. If it measures 600 ohms it should be ok. Lift it off the board and see what's going on.
That's for the missing centre coin chute switch. Just tape it up so it can't touch anything.
Ok tks
Quoted from oldschoolbob:If you're not getting the seventh flash check TP3 on the MPU - should get 22.5 volts.
Tks
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