(Topic ID: 299633)

Looking for values for these resistors.

By DreB

55 days ago


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  • 30 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 53 days ago by DreB
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 55 days ago

Recently picked up an EBD for a good price and I have some blown resistors. I'm not an expert yet lol and looking through the schematics it wasn't obvious what the values are. I obviously need to change R16, R17, CR3 and CR4. Any help is appreciated. Tks

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#2 55 days ago

R16 = 330 ohm 1/2 watt
R17 = 120 ohm 1/2 watt
CR3 = CR4 = 1N4004 (OK to use 1N4007)

Make sure to thoroughly brush off all the charred area on circuit board to avoid shorts!

#3 55 days ago

The BOM states refer to schematics, so you need to look on the one line, it shows these values.
Also, take the color codes from the resistors on either side, pull a resistor chart and you can confirm the values.
Also likely need to replace the associated transistor with those.

https://www.arrow.com/en/research-and-events/articles/resistor-color-code

It seems complicated, but really isn't.

I'm sure others will chime in with their thoughts as well.

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#4 55 days ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Also likely need to replace the associated transistor with those.

Agreed, likely the Q3 transistor is shorted which caused R16 to blow out. Grab some spare transistors while you're buying parts: "TIP102" NPN darlington transistors.
Those resistors blew for a reason. Transistor Q3 drives the knocker coil in the cabinet that doesn't have a proper fuse. Check if that coil is shorted.

#5 55 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Agreed, likely the Q3 transistor is blown too. Grab some spares while you're buying parts: "TIP102" NPN darlington transistors.
Those resistors blew for a reason. Transistor Q3 drives the knocker coil in the cabinet that doesn't have a proper fuse. Check if that coil is shorted.

I ordered some TIP102 a while back so I'll do that aswell. Tks

#6 55 days ago

So bare with me guys due to my newbness. I have a repair kit that I bought for my Future Spa that I never used and these diodes and tip102s. I think I have what I need here right? R16 is the same from the F-Spa right?

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#7 55 days ago

Yes, Future Spa uses the same boards.

Just make sure that if the repair kit is for CPU battery corrosion damage repair, you dont mix up the resistors on CPU and driver board, R16 on the CPU board is 2k and R16 on the driver board is 330 ohm.

TIP102 and 1N4007 are fine.

#8 55 days ago
Quoted from Tuukka:

Yes, Future Spa uses the same boards.
Just make sure that if the repair kit is for CPU battery corrosion damage repair, you dont mix up the resistors on CPU and driver board, R16 on the CPU board is 2k and R16 on the driver board is 330 ohm.
TIP102 and 1N4007 are fine.

Ah. Good to know. Tks.

#9 54 days ago

Update, the 2 diodes were fried and so was the transistor. Changed those and waiting on my 330 Ohms for R16. Hopefully she's good after that.

#10 54 days ago

Quick question. Those blew for a reason. I've looked at pin wiki, manual, maybe I missed it but how do I check my voltages on my power supply. Basically what outputs am I looking for and where do I test them? Did I mention I'm new to this? Hahah

#11 54 days ago
Quoted from DreB:

Quick question. Those blew for a reason.

A power supply issue would have caused many more transistor/resistor failures.
The knocker coil has had a short circuit that then caused the Q3 transistor to fail and short circuit. This put a high voltage/current through resistor R16 that caused it to burn out.
You need to do some investigation around the knocker coil in the lower right side of cabinet. Make sure the coil has a diode on it and the diode is correctly orientated. Feel free to post some pictures of that coil. That coil should measure around 11 ohms resistance from memory.

Oh, PinWiki is a great resource if you haven't come across it - it lists the test point voltages.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

#12 54 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

A power supply issue would have caused many more transistor/resistor failures.
The knocker coil has had a short circuit that then caused the Q3 transistor to fail and short circuit. This put a high voltage/current through resistor R16 that caused it to burn out.
You need to do some investigation around the knocker coil in the lower right side of cabinet. Make sure the coil has a diode on it and the diode is correctly orientated. Feel free to post some pictures of that coil. That coil should measure around 11 ohms from memory.
Oh, PinWiki is a great resource if you haven't come across it - it lists the test point voltages.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

Much appreciated

#13 54 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

A power supply issue would have caused many more transistor/resistor failures.
The knocker coil has had a short circuit that then caused the Q3 transistor to fail and short circuit. This put a high voltage/current through resistor R16 that caused it to burn out.
You need to do some investigation around the knocker coil in the lower right side of cabinet. Make sure the coil has a diode on it and the diode is correctly orientated. Feel free to post some pictures of that coil. That coil should measure around 11 ohms resistance from memory.
Oh, PinWiki is a great resource if you haven't come across it - it lists the test point voltages.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

Are diodes all the same or do they have values like resistors?

#14 54 days ago
Quoted from DreB:

Are diodes all the same or do they have values like resistors?

The primary feature of diodes is that they conduct current in one direction but act like an open circuit in the opposite direction.
If you have a new diode out of circuit, set your multi-meter to diode mode which looks something like this: ---|<|---
Place the meter leads on each diode leg.
With the meter leads one way you'll get a reading around 0.6V or 600mV depending on your meter readout.
If you swap the meter leads around, you should get no meter reading change.

#15 54 days ago

Quick update, changed the bad diodes, resistors and transistors. Knocker looks OK but I haven't changed that diode yet. Quick boot up and I still only get 6 flashes from mpu but now she makes a short sound at the end. That wasn't there before.

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#16 54 days ago

Also R16 was installed gold band up, is that correct?

#17 54 days ago

Do these capacitor go bad aswell?

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#18 54 days ago
Quoted from DreB:

Also R16 was installed gold band up, is that correct?

Resistor are non-directional - either way is ok.
Diodes on the other hand are directional, one end of the body usually has a band of color around it.

Quoted from DreB:

Do these capacitor go bad aswell?

I haven't experienced those particular ones go bad, they're usually rated for high voltage. You can check if it's short circuited with your multi-meter.

Quoted from DreB:

Quick boot up and I still only get 6 flashes from mpu

Missing the last MPU board LED flash usually means the 5 amp fuse at F4 on the rectifier board in the lower cabinet is blown.

#19 54 days ago

Knocker coil looks OK - not burned out - and the diode is wired correctly (+43V on the banded side). So as Quench said, check the fuse. The MPU board expects to see "zero crossings", or alternating voltage, but if F4 is blown, they never appear.

#20 54 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Resistor are non-directional - either way is ok.
Diodes on the other hand are directional, one end of the body usually has a band of color around it.

I haven't experienced those particular ones go bad, they're usually rated for high voltage. You can check if it's short circuited with your multi-meter.

Missing the last MPU board LED flash usually means the 5 amp fuse at F4 on the rectifier board in the lower cabinet is blown.

Thanks again.

#21 54 days ago
Quoted from Tuukka:

Knocker coil looks OK - not burned out - and the diode is wired correctly (+43V on the banded side). So as Quench said, check the fuse. The MPU board expects to see "zero crossings", or alternating voltage, but if F4 is blown, they never appear.

Visually they all look ok, I didn't test them for continuity because I'm gonna change em all. Ordered a fuse kit. Hopefully that works.

#22 54 days ago

Just noticed this madness, that can't be good? Lol. Someone got carried away with the soldering iron.

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#23 54 days ago
Quoted from DreB:

Just noticed this madness, that can't be good? Lol. Someone got carried away with the soldering iron.

Are you referring to the replacement BR1 bridge rectifier job? It's not great - they used a bridge rectifier with lug connections instead of through hole leg connections.

My concern is the burn mark under the long white ceramic resistor, that's not normal. You should unsolder one of the legs of that resistor, bend it up and look at what's going on.

BTW, fuse F4 looks blown to me.

#24 54 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Are you referring to the replacement BR1 bridge rectifier job? It's not great - they used a bridge rectifier with lug connections instead of through hole leg connections.
My concern is the burn mark under the long white ceramic resistor, that's not normal. You should unsolder one of the legs of that resistor, bend it up and look at what's going on.
BTW, fuse F4 looks blown to me.

Good eyes. Yeah I noticed the black aswell. I'll take a look. R1- Resistor, 1 0°/~, 600 Ohm, 1 OW

#25 54 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Are you referring to the replacement BR1 bridge rectifier job? It's not great - they used a bridge rectifier with lug connections instead of through hole leg connections.
My concern is the burn mark under the long white ceramic resistor, that's not normal. You should unsolder one of the legs of that resistor, bend it up and look at what's going on.
BTW, fuse F4 looks blown to me.

This guy I imagine?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/R10W600

#26 53 days ago

Changed all the fuses, mpu does one long blink then 5 fast ones. Noticed a cut blue wire in the coin door aswell. I'll check that resistor next.

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#27 53 days ago
Quoted from DreB:

This guy I imagine?

Yes, but I don't suspect it's bad. If it measures 600 ohms it should be ok. Lift it off the board and see what's going on.

Quoted from DreB:

Noticed a cut blue wire in the coin door aswell. I'll check that resistor next.

That's for the missing centre coin chute switch. Just tape it up so it can't touch anything.

#28 53 days ago

If you're not getting the seventh flash check TP3 on the MPU - should get 22.5 volts.

#29 53 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes, but I don't suspect it's bad. If it measures 600 ohms it should be ok. Lift it off the board and see what's going on.

That's for the missing centre coin chute switch. Just tape it up so it can't touch anything.

Ok tks

#30 53 days ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

If you're not getting the seventh flash check TP3 on the MPU - should get 22.5 volts.

Tks

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