Looking for some help on Williams Stellar Wars

(Topic ID: 207130)

Looking for some help on Williams Stellar Wars


By HD_Fatboy

9 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 142 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by trk12fire
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 142 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 9 months ago

All my current games are EM. So brand new to SS so be gentle on me.

I picked up a Stellar Wars pin last week, so I am new to SS. It had the piece in the cabinet where the back box attaches broke. I made a new piece, and when I did I took the playfield out of the pin and put on saw horses to disassemble for cleaning and waxing, and to go over to look for anything wrong.

I put everything back together, and when I switched on the pin all the playfield lights were flashing all around and such. I assume this is normal some type of light test.

I pressed the start button and one pop bumper stuck on ( cant figure this out, these were all dissembled for cleaning and appeared to be free on movement)

Any way shut down pin right away so I wouldn't burn up coil. Took apart pop and reassembled to make sure it is free. Now when I press start, nothing happens, nothing on playfield activates and scores, flippers don't work. Press start nothing happens, I can not get into diagnostics, and or settings.

There is a yellow wire with a diode or resistor hanging from coin door it looks like its from on coin switch. there is two green with brown stripe wires tied together not connected that looks like it went to the score reset switch, this switch is broke where it looks like these wires may have been. Wires are still soldered to the small tab. I can not find these switches or these colored wires on my schematic. but it looks like that's where these wires were at one time.

Player one has points, all others are at zero. I have the back glass off so the other two displays have 03 00. don't know if this helps at all.

Sorry for the long post, but I am looking for a starting point on how to trouble shoot the issues.

Thanks in Advance!

#2 9 months ago

Sounds like a short. Maybe something got together when you had the playfield out. Hopefully just blew a fuse. Look it over really good and see .

#3 9 months ago

Forgot to mention, All fuses checked out OK.

#4 9 months ago

Those wires with a diode for menue can definitely cause a short. A fuse should have blown. I would fix that and then start looking at if you are getting power. If anything blew on the boards after that.

#5 9 months ago

Not sure if you did or not, but you can get a false read if you don't take fuses out to check.

#6 9 months ago

Thanks Buzz, I will check things out tonight after work and post back.

#7 9 months ago

Check your solenoid fuse. Also, it sounds like you are booting up into Audit mode. There are a few causes for this, most likely culprit is bad and/or dead batteries. Open your coin door and turn the game on, then off and back on. It should boot up. Good luck!

#8 9 months ago
Quoted from Brypten:

Check your solenoid fuse. Also, it sounds like you are booting up into Audit mode. There are a few causes for this, most likely culprit is bad and/or dead batteries. Open your coin door and turn the game on, then off and back on. It should boot up. Good luck!

Thanks, I will check this out also!

#9 9 months ago

Which pop is sticking on?
For the pops, coil #7 is MPU controlled, coils 17,19,20, and 21 are special solenoids.

If it is a special solenoid coil, they use a separate direct activation switch - check the activation switch for short or contacts touching. A permanently stuck on switch will cause that pop to lock on. Switch test won't help here, as the switch test will onlyt detect the scoring switches (these are different switches that do not control the pops coil, they just register the points)

Once the possibility of a stuck switch is ruled out, then proceed to test the coils drive transistor/circuit.

#10 9 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Which pop is sticking on?

Top Left hand POP I do not know the number. Being I have EM's, I checked the contacts under the playfield.

Quoted from wayout440:

then proceed to test the coils drive transistor/circuit.

As I said, I am very new to SS machines.
How do you test the coils drive transistor/circuit?

#11 9 months ago
Quoted from HD_Fatboy:

Top Left hand POP I do not know the number. Being I have EM's, I checked the contacts under the playfield.

So just to be certain: You checked the spoon switch with a DMM for high resistance when the switch is open?

Top left is solenoid #19 according to the manual. Drive transistor Q6.

To test: Game power off. Remove connector 2J12 (prevents skewed reading from playfield coil) Set DMM to diode position. Put the black lead of your DMM on the center lead or on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the red lead of your DMM on each of the two outside legs of the transistor. You should get a reading of .4 to .6 volts. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.

#12 9 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

So just to be certain: You checked the spoon switch with a DMM for high resistance when the switch is open?
Top left is solenoid #19 according to the manual. Drive transistor Q6.
To test: Game power off. Remove connector 2J12 (prevents skewed reading from playfield coil) Set DMM to diode position. Put the black lead of your DMM on the center lead or on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the red lead of your DMM on each of the two outside legs of the transistor. You should get a reading of .4 to .6 volts. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.

Like I said, first SS game and I have tons too learn!!!! I only checked the opening and closing of the switch contacts. I will be getting the DMM out after work. Thanks again everyone for your help, I will post back how O make out!

#13 9 months ago

I replaced the batteries, and now I can get into diagnostics, lots of failed solenoid and switch tests failed.

#14 9 months ago

The main thing happening that makes trouble shooting more difficult is,,,,,The right top pop bumper coil is being pulled in and scoring and not releasing. The switches under the pop bumper are not made when this happens.

#15 9 months ago

If you need pictures of anything Stellar Wars related let me know.

#16 9 months ago
Quoted from mswhat:

If you need pictures of anything Stellar Wars related let me know.

Thanks I appreciate that

#17 9 months ago
Quoted from HD_Fatboy:

I replaced the batteries, and now I can get into diagnostics, lots of failed solenoid and switch tests failed.

Now that you can get into diagnostics, take care of the switch problems first. Mark all the switches that are failing on the switch matrix diagram so you can see if there are any common relationships.

Screenshot at 2018-01-12 04-57-57 (resized).jpg

#18 9 months ago

Hi wayout, thanks again for the help, problem is right now I can not do switches first because top right pop bumper is constantly firing. It pulses as soon as you get into the switch test mode, or when you try to start a game. Should I take one lead off the coil for now and do the switch test?

Also three of the drop targets solenoids are not working. All the coils are brand new, the person I purchased the pin from just had them installed.

#19 9 months ago

Unplug the connection that controls that coil or coils to be correct from the mpu. That will isolate so you can work on switches and then get back to that problem which is probably connected to the switch issue.

#20 9 months ago

Thanks Buzz!

#21 9 months ago

You can look at your schematic or by the wire color

#22 9 months ago

I mentioned removing connector 2J12 for those solenoid earlier in the thread. That will stop it from locking on if there is an MPU problem.

#23 9 months ago

Wayout440 is correct you need to check those transistors after your done playing with your switches. If one is bad the coil will lock up again. Very good advice mentioned above.

#24 9 months ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Wayout440 is correct you need to check those transistors after your done playing with your switches. If one is bad the coil will lock up again. Very good advice mentioned above.

Thanks Wayout, What is the testing procedure for new coils that are not firing?

#25 9 months ago

Post #11. Explains how to test for bad transistors. Then you can go to the next step. Important to focus on one thing at a time.

#26 9 months ago
Quoted from HD_Fatboy:

Thanks Wayout, What is the testing procedure for new coils that are not firing?

Did you get the switch problems resolved and coil transistors tested? Once that's done, fix the locking on problem.
Then, the next step would be to tackle non working coils.

#27 9 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Did you get the switch problems resolved and coil transistors tested? Once that's done, fix the locking on problem.
Then, the next step would be to tackle non working coils.

Hi wayout, I am at work now, be home around 6:00pm. I will post my results when I test further. Thanks for checking!

#28 9 months ago

I have some failed switches, they are making contact, I really am at a lost now on how to fix some of these things. top right bumper is fine until the coil is fired then it stays energized.

#29 9 months ago

It's going to be overwhelming until you start to narrow things down. You have to pick one thing. Go to YouTube and watch the pinball ninja video on LW3, I think it's the only video. Also watch the pinball repair of T2 that jack danger made I think it comes up if you type pinball repair. Both had multiple issues and you can see a good way of attacking this stuff. Isolation is a key and one thing at a time. I think it will help you so all this doesn't sound like Chinese.

#30 9 months ago

Here is something I noticed, The items with the white and yellow colored coils are the items not working correctly.
The items with the orange colored coils are working correctly.

The previous owner just put on the white and yellow coils.

#31 9 months ago

My pictures did not show up I will try again

#32 9 months ago

Could be a faulty transistor, wire,fuse,diode, ?? Watch those videos they will help you I guarantee it.

#33 9 months ago

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#34 9 months ago

Old coils and new coils not an issue. Check the serial numbers if you want to make sure they are correct. Then find out why they are not working.

#35 9 months ago

Does it matter if the numbers don't match exactly? I tried to search and find the videos but no luck.

#36 9 months ago

#37 9 months ago

#38 9 months ago

Thanks

#39 9 months ago

Stop, please.
Slow down.
Coil part numbers are listed in the manual in the solenoid chart.
There are several different coils in this game...so the part numbers so matter.

Did this game ever work in your possesion?

#40 9 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Stop, please.
Slow down.
Coil part numbers are listed in the manual in the solenoid chart.
There are several different coils in this game...so the part numbers so matter.
Did this game ever work in your possesion?

Hi Wayout, The game never fully worked in my possession. The things that did not work are the items with the yellow white coils in my pics,

#41 9 months ago

I watched the videos, but sorry They did not help me much, I think because my game is nothing like them.????????

#42 9 months ago

So did you check to see if coils are correct for your pin? Did you check to see if you have voltage at coils? I thought the videos would help as a reference on troubleshooting.

#43 9 months ago
Quoted from Buzz:

So did you check to see if coils are correct for your pin? Did you check to see if you have voltage at coils? I thought the videos would help as a reference on troubleshooting.

The videos were mostly changing bad molex plugs. I don't have material to see what are the correct coils...still looking...but if you look at my pics, the coils that work are SG=23 850 DC the coils that don't seem to work are SA=23-850 I do not know if the letter makes a difference or not.

#44 9 months ago

Those are the proper coils. Now time to test for power to them and let me know if you have power at the coil.

#45 9 months ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Those are the proper coils. Now time to test for power to them and let me know if you have power at the coil.

Sorry I am dumb, but how should I test for power at the coils?

#46 9 months ago

Digital multi meter

#47 9 months ago

Wait stop!!! Do you have a meter???

#48 9 months ago

This will show you a DMM and how it's used.

#49 9 months ago

I guess the SS games are harder than I thought, EM.s seem easier

#50 9 months ago

Ok, I read in a thread in here that you could force the coils to fire by putting a jumper from one of the coil lugs to ground. I did this test, and the coils fired. do I need to figure out where the wiring goes?

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There are 142 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.

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