Did you call PBR? They often have things that aren't listed.

Those things almost look like a flipper bushing. Is there a spring inside that bushing or does the button use the tension of the switch blade to return to normal position?

Old thread but just wondering if there was a conclusion to this. Flippers.com is out of stock on this button and does not show the bushing at all. My Bally Wizard uses this same setup, and one of the two flippers on my Bally Bon Voyage uses it. I’m looking to replace the other to match this.

I will ask Steve at PBR.

Steve at PBR does not have any of these. Has not for about a year. The flipper button is indeed part #C-717. I forgot to ask about the bushing.

The following pics show the correct button and bushing installed on my left Bon Voyage flipper. I will re-use the red button/ metal bushing on the right side for now. The red button is really dirty and is shown next to a new Williams “start button” from Marco, but it’s even worse than the red one since it’s quite a bit thinner

Looks like if I want a white button on the right I will need to make one and use an old flipper bushing with it. I’ll update if I get a better solution.

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Can't these be 3D printed?

I think they definitely could be 3D printed. I found one at Thingiverse last night, called “Bally Skykings Flipper Button”. I THINK that’s the right one. But I cannot tell for sure. I’m traveling but I plan to use my calipers and get some exact dimensions tomorrow. I appreciate you guys helping out. Since I have one good one, I’ll get good dimensions to make sure and then I’d want to print 2. So they match.

The Williams start button was the exact same overall length and shaft diameter as the red button in my picture. It was worse than the red button, however, since the button head was not as thick. This created a gap that allowed you to see underneath the button when installed from the outside. Just not right at all. So the solution seems to be to make a button that is the same dimensions as the original white button, which is longer than both the red or start buttons. And it needs that “bushing” that can be easily made from a flipper bat bushing - cut to length.

I have a Bally Amigo with those buttons. Could use a pair as well.

These are the rare bird 1974 buttons. We have 2 of these machines, delta queen and RoGo that use these buttons that go through the stainless trim without a bezel. I had to hunt some down because each machine had a melted one, I assume from cigarette burns. After buying various ones that didn’t fit, I found the part number and had the same experience as everyone else on this thread. I did luck out and get a couple from people parting out machines.

If they can be 3D printed, I’m sure there are some Bally owners out there who would want a set. Will that plastic hold up to the tough life of a flipper button?

Dave

I am new to 3D printing and have a printer, however I will print the stl. file that is on 'Thingiverse' today to explore print measurements to make comparison with originals. Printing with PLA filament should work.

That would be great. I ran out of time today but promise to post measurements to compare with the stl from Thingiverse. I’m interested if the button face is concave, smooth, etc The stl file comes up with dimensions 22.0 x 22.0 x 40.0 mm, but I didn’t bite the bullet to pay to print one via “Print a Thing”. They would charge only $1.15 each plus an $11 setup fee. Seems reasonable - especially if you get all one color - one setup fee per color.... But I also need to figure out the bushing, since I need one of those too. I had thought the standard flipper bat bushing would work, but it has too small a hole. Maybe could drill it out. Again, measurements tomorrow.

Here are measurements for the C-717 button I have. Seems like the stl file on Thingiverse is pretty accurate, considering my button is quite old & worn.

C-717 Measurements (resized).png

Yes, the measurements are are accurate, so the designer has done well. I did print the stl. file in a transparent PLA filament, however for me, not a good finish on the top of the button (concave area) and a blemish on the side of the button near a internal support tab. Also the button is hollowed with the 3 small tabs supporting a hollow centred shaft. I did put the shaft under a little side pressure and it broke away from the button fairly easily.
For those with a 3D printer you may be able to tweek your printer settings. However personally I would create a new design using the measurements supplied by solderboy.

Flipper - Bally (resized).jpg

Flipper - Bally 2 (resized).jpg

I have a bushing I could part with, if that helps you out.
Send me a pinside mail with your address and I’ll send it to you. I’d think that I could just put it into a padded envelope.

Dave

Print a pair on shapeways. Should be almost nos

Happy to upload it for you if you need me to. Let me know

Thanks Oldpins for printing out the stl & dgAmpGuy with a great offer on the bushing. I have one idea that is more of a hack but it might work very well. And it would be an inexpensive, repeatable solution. So I’d like to try it first.

I need to buy a few items from Marco Sp anyway, so I’m thinking of getting a couple PUSHBUTTON 1-1/8 INCH WHITE
#A-16883-5 and cutting off the outside flange enough to fit. And leave enough to (7/8 diameter) oppose a PAL nut on the inside.

This would give a known button material, inner spring, and bushing all together for just over $2. I edited the picture to show where I’d cut it. And if it doesn’t work I’m only out $2 and can work harder to figure out the right material to use for printing the stl file, etc.

Think this is worth a try?
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It worked, with a few additional steps I didn’t anticipate. I would say this is an acceptable solution as long as you are not looking for an all-original & authentic restoration.

First, I marked 15/16” and carefully cut the outside off.

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Then I realized the hole for the old bushing was not large enough, so I used the Dremel to expand it.

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Next problem was the button did not sit far enough inside the side rails. I used a 15/16 Forstner bit very carefully to drill the hole just a little deeper. Set my drill on slow speed and took my time - checking the depth several times before settling on the right depth. About 1/8” deeper than before..
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Normally you would NEVER use a Forstner bit in a hand drill to expand a large existing hole, since the bit would “walk” on you. In this case the 15/16” bit was held nicely in place by the side railing.

Finally, used a PAL nut to secure the inside. Performed the same operation on the other side. Here are final pics.

This was not as easy as just cutting the 1 1/8 button. However I really like the result for less than $3 each. A couple hours of “free” labor - I cannot price my labor or this machine might cost $50,000!

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I posted a file for the old Williams em buttons on thingiverse. I printed a few for people and they seem to be working fine. Hope that helps someone out.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3778983

Since the new button and shaft is exactly the same overall length as the previous button/shaft (C-717), I don't expect there to be any issue. We shall see. My playfield is stripped and getting clear-coated, so I can't test it for a while.

I am a little late to this party but I just found a pair of these if anyone still needs them. See eBay item number 153830419838

I am in the process of packing parts for the guy who bought my parts business and while I am doing that I am also listing some stuff that might help people before I am totally out of the parts business in a couple weeks. -Skip-

Sold!
Was wondering where I would find those.....