(Topic ID: 186198)

Looking for in-home repair in west Michigan *FIXED*


By tbmi

2 years ago



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  • 52 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by crlush
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#18 2 years ago

I am 100% positive that I owned this game two years ago. So, it just doesn't start a game?

Quoted from tbmi:

The top wire on the connector that plugs into the reset board is loose from the "chip" that it plugs into. Can you tell me where it should go? Thanks!

Don't plug in the reset board! It will NOT prevent or help the game to work, in any way. Wish I would have thrown it away when I owned that game.

If the game is booting, all you need to do is add a credit and press the start button. That game was not on free play and as far as I know, it can't be placed on free play. Also, this particular game (Victory) must have two balls present in the trough to start, even though it does not have multiball.

Are you certain the game just doesn't need credits? Does the display come on when you power it up?

If it works intermittently, you could have a low voltage issue. I did however, reflow all the pins on all the power connectors when I owned the game.

You may just have a flakey connection near the coin door as well. I remember that part of the wiring in the game being kind of being hacked up.

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballlizard:

the grounds on the power supply are the biggest issues on these. take a picture of that area.

The grounds on this particular game are fine. The overall condition of everything inside the game was VERY CLEAN, from my memory. I don't forget the games I work on. If the OP shoots me a PM, I'm certain we can get it running. The game was at my friends arcade for a few months and it was very reliable and played every day without any problems.

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from tbmi:

Thanks for the info and the picture. Unfortunately, my game does not go into test mode when I push the red button (behind the coin door).

Then you likely have a switch or wiring issue. Does the display work when you power on the game?

#24 2 years ago

Ok, (WITH THE GAME OFF) look at the two connectors to the left of the dip switches (circled in the picture). Those are your switch wires for the game. Do all the pins look present and unbent? Reseating theses connectors a few times may get you up and going again but you could have a broken or dirty pin(s) in the harness, causing your intermittent switch issues:

It's a very common problem on Got.'s from this era.

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#27 2 years ago

Everything in your last post makes sense. Sounds like two different problems though.

Your TEST mode switch problem could just be a bad harness/pin in the coin door connector. If there are ANY socketed chips on the MPU board, confirm that they are all pressed into their sockets properly. Worst case, you may need to send the board out for repair. Does the game make a sound when you trip the coin mechs? If the coin switches are registering, then it's possible that JUST the test switch may be bad.

The other issue: If I remember correctly, the other ball in the trough simply falls with gravity in the game's next switch. So, it sounds like an arm/blade adjustment (could just be a DIRTY SWITCH, or some divot or bend in the play field or metal is causing the ball serve/trough problem. Sounds like a ball is getting hung up some how. You will have to observe the game behavior (possibly with the apron off) to get that straightened out.

If there are divots in the metal rail of the ball trough, you may have to sand or file them down. THAT is another plague of a problem on all system 80 games.

ALSO, confirm that the coin door interlock safety switch is pulled out or the coils in the game with never work!

#29 2 years ago

Could be the infamous "floating nipple" switch problem as well. That would actually explain the inconsistency you are experiencing.

#34 2 years ago

It is possible that a fuse blew. The fuses for the coils are mounted to the upper left of the playfield, if I remember correctly. Can you test the fuses?

#37 2 years ago

Makes me sad. Hopefully someone can get it going again... it sounds close and I can confirm the boards and connecters are all in very good shape, for a system 80.

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