(Topic ID: 186198)

Looking for in-home repair in west Michigan *FIXED*


By tbmi

2 years ago



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  • 52 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by crlush
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There are 52 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 2 years ago

I have a Gottlieb/Premier Victory I just picked up. It is having issues booting and I am looking for an in-home repair person to work on it. I am located in Holland, MI on the west side of the state. Thank you!

#2 2 years ago

Whats it doing? Did it work when before you moved it? Try reseating tbe connectors

#3 2 years ago

RLM Amusements or TD Amusements.

Both are awesome guys with great skills.

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from crlush:

Whats it doing? Did it work when before you moved it? Try reseating tbe connectors

Yes, it worked when I picked it up and I reseated the connectors with no luck. When I turn the machine on, it will sometimes boot up and allow a game to play. But most times it will do one or more of the following: will not start when the start button is pushed or it will start a game and the flippers will not work (sometimes the sound doesn't work or the display is blank).

Just a little while ago, I found that one of the trough switches stopped working altogether (the first switch the ball hits when it drains). So it doesn't serve up a new ball and makes the game totally unplayable. When I press the red service button in the coin box, nothing happens - it doesn't go into the test mode. It's become very frustrating.

#5 2 years ago

In the picture make sure the small board is plugged in and when it doesn't boot up press on the chip that says prom1 with your finger and see if it boots up while holding pressure with your finger on it.

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#6 2 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

RLM Amusements or TD Amusements.
Both are awesome guys with great skills.

Hello. TD Amusements here. We are differing to RLM Amusements as we've pivoted away from in-home service. That and I'm buried in projects pre PATZ and barely have time to put my pants on.

"Except, once my pants are on I make gold records" -Bruce Dickinson

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from Underspin:

Hello. TD Amusements here. We are differing to RLM Amusements as we've pivoted away from in-home service. That and I'm buried in projects pre PATZ and barely have time to put my pants on.
"Except, once my pants are on I make gold records" -Bruce Dickinson

Yep, RLM is busy also. Any other options out there?

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from tbmi:

Yep, RLM is busy also. Any other options out there?

NOT Game Room Guys. They are overpriced, greedy goons (my opinion)

#9 2 years ago

Let me ask this, how much is this game worth in the condition it is in should I decide to just bail on it? I returned to this hobby because we missed having a machine in the house - now I remember why I got out of it.

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from tbmi:

Let me ask this, how much is this game worth in the condition it is in should I decide to just bail on it? I returned to this hobby because we missed having a machine in the house - now I remember why I got out of it.

Tough call. Condition condition condition

Working condition $1000-1200ish
Decent condition playfield and glass with board issues $800ish
Bad condition playfield and glass with board issues $500-600ish

Again, that is my opinion and comfort level. Others will be higher or lower based on their interest and expertise level. Game Room Guys for example would give you $600 for it and then sell it on ebay for $3200 with "free shipping"

#11 2 years ago

I could fix it for you but couldn't come out, i have 5 gottlieb system80s at the house and work perfect, but everyone of them had some sort of problem that when i get one i go thru it top to bottom and bulletproof them so that they will stay working for a long time, they are good machines but had a few design flaws that probably worked fine when new but after 30 yrs they need some updating, how long have you had the Victory?

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from crlush:

I could fix it for you but couldn't come out, i have 5 gottlieb system80s at the house and work perfect, but everyone of them had some sort of problem that when i get one i go thru it top to bottom and bulletproof them so that they will stay working for a long time, they are good machines but had a few design flaws that probably worked fine when new but after 30 yrs they need some updating, how long have you had the Victory?

Less than a week.

#13 2 years ago

Hey Tom, I would really hate to see you lose interest in the hobby again and especially so fast after getting a game back in the house. Perhaps you could bring it to the Zoo show and people could take a peek at it there? What have you got to lose ?

John

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from crlush:

In the picture make sure the small board is plugged in and when it doesn't boot up press on the chip that says prom1 with your finger and see if it boots up while holding pressure with your finger on it.

Maybe I'm using the wrong term, the game powers up, but doesn't start a game. Pushing on that chip did not help. I did notice that on your picture you have the yellow ground strap going up in the head. In my game, there is a ground strap coming from the cabinet, but nothing going up. See pics.

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#15 2 years ago

the grounds on the power supply are the biggest issues on these. take a picture of that area.

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from tbmi:

I did notice that on your picture you have the yellow ground strap going up in the head. In my game, there is a ground strap coming from the cabinet, but nothing going up. See pics.

In my pic its a different game, I have seen another pic of the same game you have and yours looks correct. Try plugging in the reset board (small board to the right of the mpu in your pic) and see if it will boot while pressing on the prom 1 chip.

#17 2 years ago

The top wire on the connector that plugs into the reset board is loose from the "chip" that it plugs into. Can you tell me where it should go? Thanks!

#18 2 years ago

I am 100% positive that I owned this game two years ago. So, it just doesn't start a game?

Quoted from tbmi:

The top wire on the connector that plugs into the reset board is loose from the "chip" that it plugs into. Can you tell me where it should go? Thanks!

Don't plug in the reset board! It will NOT prevent or help the game to work, in any way. Wish I would have thrown it away when I owned that game.

If the game is booting, all you need to do is add a credit and press the start button. That game was not on free play and as far as I know, it can't be placed on free play. Also, this particular game (Victory) must have two balls present in the trough to start, even though it does not have multiball.

Are you certain the game just doesn't need credits? Does the display come on when you power it up?

If it works intermittently, you could have a low voltage issue. I did however, reflow all the pins on all the power connectors when I owned the game.

You may just have a flakey connection near the coin door as well. I remember that part of the wiring in the game being kind of being hacked up.

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballlizard:

the grounds on the power supply are the biggest issues on these. take a picture of that area.

The grounds on this particular game are fine. The overall condition of everything inside the game was VERY CLEAN, from my memory. I don't forget the games I work on. If the OP shoots me a PM, I'm certain we can get it running. The game was at my friends arcade for a few months and it was very reliable and played every day without any problems.

#20 2 years ago

I never play my games with it plugged in but when you have a problem diagnosing a boot issue the reset board basicly does the same thing as the on off switch does without you having to keep turning it on and off provided the reset board still works, i have had the mpu lockup to where it seems like its still running fine but theres certain things that wont work to where it locks up and the only thing on is the gi lighting and no display. Once you know for sure that it is booting fine everytime you turn it on then you can figure out why it wont start a game. There is no freeplay unless you buy the new roms that someone has recently come out with, so when your sure it boots you have to make sure it has credits the right number of balls then if that doesnt work you need to put machine in switch test mode and check to see if the trough switches are registering, remove the apron and remove the balls then put in switch test mode then try adding the ball to the switch to see if it registers, if it does it will flash a number. Also check that tilt and slam switches are working right.

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#21 2 years ago
Quoted from crlush:

I never play my games with it plugged in but when you have a problem diagnosing a boot issue the reset board basicly does the same thing as the on off switch does without you having to keep turning it on and off provided the reset board still works, i have had the mpu lockup to where it seems like its still running fine but theres certain things that wont work to where it locks up and the only thing on is the gi lighting and no display. Once you know for sure that it is booting fine everytime you turn it on then you can figure out why it wont start a game. There is no freeplay unless you buy the new roms that someone has recently come out with, so when your sure it boots you have to make sure it has credits the right number of balls then if that doesnt work you need to put machine in switch test mode and check to see if the trough switches are registering, remove the apron and remove the balls then put in switch test mode then try adding the ball to the switch to see if it registers, if it does it will flash a number. Also check that tilt and slam switches are working right.

Thanks for the info and the picture. Unfortunately, my game does not go into test mode when I push the red button (behind the coin door).

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from tbmi:

Thanks for the info and the picture. Unfortunately, my game does not go into test mode when I push the red button (behind the coin door).

Then you likely have a switch or wiring issue. Does the display work when you power on the game?

#23 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Then you likely have a switch or wiring issue. Does the display work when you power on the game?

Most of the time. Sometimes when I turn the game off and on, the display doesn't come on, but it usually does.

#24 2 years ago

Ok, (WITH THE GAME OFF) look at the two connectors to the left of the dip switches (circled in the picture). Those are your switch wires for the game. Do all the pins look present and unbent? Reseating theses connectors a few times may get you up and going again but you could have a broken or dirty pin(s) in the harness, causing your intermittent switch issues:

It's a very common problem on Got.'s from this era.

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#25 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Ok, (WITH THE GAME OFF) look at the two connectors to the left of the dip switches. Those are your switch wires for the game. Do all the pins look present and unbent? Reseating theses connectors a few times may get you up and going again but you could have a broken or dirty pin(s) in the harness, causing your intermittent switch issues.
It's a very common problem on Got.'s from this era.

I will check it out tonight and report back. Thanks for all of your help.

#26 2 years ago

I did swing home at lunch time and reseated those connectors with no luck. I had previously taken the apron off and noted that the first trough switch (by the outhole) does not seem to register. I can get a game to start - I think it depends on where the balls are at in the trough. But the ball (not in play) does not advance. I would normally think that switch is bad, but since the test switch does not work also, I think it is a bigger issue. Without being able to get in the test menu, it's hard to tell if any other switches are not properly registering.

#27 2 years ago

Everything in your last post makes sense. Sounds like two different problems though.

Your TEST mode switch problem could just be a bad harness/pin in the coin door connector. If there are ANY socketed chips on the MPU board, confirm that they are all pressed into their sockets properly. Worst case, you may need to send the board out for repair. Does the game make a sound when you trip the coin mechs? If the coin switches are registering, then it's possible that JUST the test switch may be bad.

The other issue: If I remember correctly, the other ball in the trough simply falls with gravity in the game's next switch. So, it sounds like an arm/blade adjustment (could just be a DIRTY SWITCH, or some divot or bend in the play field or metal is causing the ball serve/trough problem. Sounds like a ball is getting hung up some how. You will have to observe the game behavior (possibly with the apron off) to get that straightened out.

If there are divots in the metal rail of the ball trough, you may have to sand or file them down. THAT is another plague of a problem on all system 80 games.

ALSO, confirm that the coin door interlock safety switch is pulled out or the coils in the game with never work!

#28 2 years ago

When the ball drains, it falls onto a switch in the trough (wire actuator that goes to a leaf switch). This triggers (or should trigger) a coil to kick the ball over in the trough. The switch itself doesn't seem to work - or it works but the coil doesn't. Again, it's hard to tell without a test menu.

The other coils in the game appear to work with no issues. But you're right, it could be 2 different issues - the switch could be bad and there could be an issue with the coin door connector. I will play around with it more tonight.

#29 2 years ago

Could be the infamous "floating nipple" switch problem as well. That would actually explain the inconsistency you are experiencing.

#30 2 years ago

So I got a game going and was able to move the drained ball by hand in the trough to keep the game going. I then hit the ball into one of the saucers and the ball just sat there - and the game played the same sound effect over and over (and points kept going up). So now I'm wondering if there is a problem with the coils and not the switches.

#31 2 years ago

I'm wondering if the issue is on the board. Does anyone know if there will be any board testing/repairing (Sys 80B) at PATZ this year?

#32 2 years ago

Also, if someone is interested in this machine, make me an offer. I'm thinking of just cutting my loses and getting rid of it. I forgot how frustrating this hobby is and at this point in my life, I don't need it.

#33 2 years ago

I would bet its the mpu not booting properly.

#34 2 years ago

It is possible that a fuse blew. The fuses for the coils are mounted to the upper left of the playfield, if I remember correctly. Can you test the fuses?

#35 2 years ago

I have posted the game for sale in the market place. Thanks to all for your help in trying to fix it.

#36 2 years ago
Quoted from tbmi:

I have posted the game for sale in the market place. Thanks to all for your help in trying to fix it.

Good luck with your sale

#37 2 years ago

Makes me sad. Hopefully someone can get it going again... it sounds close and I can confirm the boards and connecters are all in very good shape, for a system 80.

#38 2 years ago

We have all been there, but it is sad when someone appears so close.

#39 2 years ago

We'll that's disappointing.

John

1 week later
#40 2 years ago

I'm still hoping to get someone here to look at this machine before I let it go. I'm hoping when PATZ is over, people will have more time (?).

#41 2 years ago

If you werent 3 hrs from me I would, hope someone close can help you out.

#42 2 years ago
Quoted from crlush:

If you werent 3 hrs from me I would, hope someone close can help you out.

I'm starting to think its an MPU board issue. Now the displays come on when you first turn the machine on but then go out.

#43 2 years ago

Turns out it is not an MPU problem as I have tried a known good board (also the display is working). What I did find is a board underneath the playfield (in the back right corner) that is burnt pretty good - most likely beyond repair. Does anyone know what this board is and if it is available. Thank you.

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#44 2 years ago

After doing some more research, this looks to be a lamp driver board - which shouldn't be the problem.  Right now, it looks like the issue is, a couple of solenoids are not working (one in the ball trough and one in a capture hole).

#45 2 years ago

http://www.pbresource.com/boards.html look for system 80 aux driver board, you need to make sure what one you have(look for part number on board) some are out of stock. but you can just leave it unplugged till you get one. can you get it to start a game?

#46 2 years ago

Those two boards control the #86 lights on the metal ramps. notice when you turn the game on, before the CPU has even "booted", that the left side ramp lights are moving. This board controls that.

Then there's a relay under the playfield, that when engaged, turns off the left side ramp lights, and turns on the right side ramp lights (which the other identical board controls). but the CPU is not involved in making these lights go in sequence. These boards just require 5 volts and does that the sequencing itself. This is a standard board, used on a lot of sys80 games for light effects, without using any CPU board processing. The only thing that changes are a resistor or two to change sequence timing.

The reason the board is burned is that the ramp lights can short against the metal ramp. It's pretty easy to do. If this happens it can causes a dead short and smoke that lamp board.

#47 2 years ago
Quoted from crlush:

http://www.pbresource.com/boards.html look for system 80 aux driver board, you need to make sure what one you have(look for part number on board) some are out of stock. but you can just leave it unplugged till you get one. can you get it to start a game?

Quoted from cfh:

Those two boards control the #86 lights on the metal ramps. notice when you turn the game on, before the CPU has even "booted", that the left side ramp lights are moving. This board controls that.
Then there's a relay under the playfield, that when engaged, turns off the left side ramp lights, and turns on the right side ramp lights (which the other identical board controls). but the CPU is not involved in making these lights go in sequence. These boards just require 5 volts and does that the sequencing itself. This is a standard board, used on a lot of sys80 games for light effects, without using any CPU board processing. The only thing that changes are a resistor or two to change sequence timing.
The reason the board is burned is that the ramp lights can short against the metal ramp. It's pretty easy to do. If this happens it can causes a dead short and smoke that lamp board.

Thanks Guys!

#48 2 years ago

I had someone come over and repair the Victory. The game is up and running - finally. I had purchased a new System 80B MPU, which turned out not to be the problem, so if someone needs an MPU board for one of these machines, let me know. Thanks again for everyone's help.

#49 2 years ago
Quoted from tbmi:

I had someone come over and repair the Victory. The game is up and running - finally. I had purchased a new System 80B MPU, which turned out not to be the problem, so if someone needs an MPU board for one of these machines, let me know. Thanks again for everyone's help.

So let us all in on what exactly the problem was.

John

1 week later
#50 2 years ago

So what ended up being wrong with the game?

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