I bought a Gorgar about 10 months ago, from a local seller. Tried it out at his house and it was working. I made arrangements to buy & pickup the following weekend. Backboard was already down when I arrived and I took care to load it onto my trailer and get it home. When I set it up in the garage, just my luck it wouldn't start up - would light up, but in the top left display it had "1496 1" and in the bottom display "04 00" (see attached image).

I spent sometime and tried re-seating all the harness connectors, installing new batteries, etc. Nothing changed.
Went through Vid's post on bulletproofing the Williams system and ordered up all the parts recommended (replaced capacitors, diodes, etc) while installing an Inkochnito bridge rectifier and a solenoid saver fuse board. When I put it all back together, the machine actually semi-worked (Gorgar spoke and I could use the flippers). When I turned it on the next day...back to the same "1496 1 / 04 00".

I'm posting, hoping that someone could point me in the right direction to try to solve whatever's happening (or if someone is local to Vancouver, BC and wouldn't mind giving me a hand..).

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Switching it off and on with the coin door open/closed didn't do anything.
Looking at the coin door, I can't see how the door open or closed affects the power.

Testing the battery voltage I show 4.68VDC (first photo below)

I don't know where the CMOS TP is, but I went through the board and tested the different TPs I could find.
Photos of TP's in order below

TP1 10.96VDC
TP2 3.94 VDC
TP3 4.04 VDC
TP4 4.96 VDC
TP5 4.88 VDC
TP6 2.46 VDC
TP7 4.90 VDC
TP8 4.95 VDC
TP9 5.06 VDC

...did I miss any?

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Thank you all for the advice...but I'm still a bit confused.
IC11 is the first pic below and CMOS RAM (according to the schematic I found) is the second pic.

So is the suggestion that I replace the batteries and the CMOS RAM with an NVRAM battery eliminator?

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Just a follow up...I ordered a 5101 battery eliminator, from one of the forum sellers (shipped fast! Thanks!!).

Unfortunately, installing it (after I took out the batteries...and yes, the pin was unplugged) did not solve the machine's issue.

Soooooo frustrating

I'll try that when I'm back home after work.

What does opening the coin door do? I don't see any switches/sensors that are connected to it, that would sense door open/closed.

I posted a couple of pics in previous reply, showing that my Gorgar's coin door looks like.

Well that makes more sense. I did try to open the door and switch on and off (without any more success) after work. I did see some taped together wires in the cabinet and when I'm back home I'll investigate those more.

I did discover that the coin slot light bulbs were burnt out, so I did make a bit of progress today with gluing the broken plastic lenses and replacing the bulbs.

I wonder if I can find a replacement switch for the door....is it worth the effort to fix/cleanup the coin mechanism?

Ok... Tried that and ended up with the displays all going to zeros (top display goes between 500000 and 000000). I turned the pin off, replugged 1J4 and turned back on. Displays all blank and no startup. ....I hope I'm making progress...

As for the coin door switch, there are two sets of taped up wires inside. A pair of whites wrapped to a black/red stripe and a pair of reds wrapped to a brown/blue stripe. (Photo attached).

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Ok...noticed that when I power pin on, the two red diagnostic LEDs flash. One long (half second) and two short (1/4 second).

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Tested the Auto/Man switch with a DVM and it works (closed on Auto / open on Man).

Powering on with either position has same result with the LED pattern.

De-soldering the black/red from the pair of whites, changes the display back to the nvram clear, so I reconnected and wrapped with e-tape for now.

Should have mentioned they work (closed pushed in / open normally).

I unplugged and tested out 1J4 connector and wiring. Nothing is shorted, the wires correctly correspond at each end, and the switch/buttons both correctly register at the board end.

pin_wiring.pdf

Startek2 - if you mean the big capacitor on the power board, yes I replaced it with a radial one (15000uF 35V) from DigiKey.

PINTEC - i spent a couple of hours last night and disconnected the harness plugs and took out the two boards. Went over them with my magnifying light, made sure socketed ICs were seating properly, checked the 40pin header and that looked tight, went over the back of the boards and checked for anything that may be causing an issue.

Put everything back together and powered on.

Now, with 1J4 connected, the pin powers up (I get the 000000/500000 in the top left display and zeros in the rest), but that's the extent....relays don't seem to latch. If I trip the switch on/off/on, I can randomly get "Gorgar", but pushing the credit button doesn't start things up. Playfield lights are flashing, drop down targets don't pop back up.

Feeling the driver board, resistors R96,104,110,116,122,128,134&140 are really warm/hot. I did follow the guide and replaced the 8 TIP42 with IRF9Z34NPBF-ND from DigiKey, along with 1/4W 0ohm resistors.

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Wow...ok. so I set 18 to free play.

I can add credits, Gorgar speaks, and there's a heart beat, flippers work, only about half the bumpers/targets work.

Drop targets don't reset, but the round side targets do.

Definitely a few big steps forward..I really (and I can't express how really) I appreciate the help.

I'll work on that. I think I'll solder in a switch to replace the missing coin door one.
I soldered in a NC one last night, but it didn't take the heat from the soldering iron (should have taken my time and not rushed...lesson learned).
I have a couple of other styles in my spares bin that I can use...

Here's what's not working/left to TS.

gorgar_playfield.pdf

No issues with the flippers, but the pop bumpers don't work, drop targets don't reset (they do trigger when dropped), drain kicker (to pop the ball into the shooting lane), side bumpers, and the solenoid to kick the ball out of the little magnetic hole all aren't working.

I installed a "solenoid saver" to fuse the solenoids on the 2J12 harness, but connecting that plug directly to the driver board didn't solve that.
Checked the fuses on the power board and on the bridge rectifier and they are all good, but looking at the solenoid wiring diagram, 3J3 Solenoid B+ (+28VDC) is the common pathway. Maybe an issue with the ground side...I'll work on troubleshooting that.

When I originally looked at buying the pin, I know one set of the GOR / GAR drop targets had an issue resetting, but the other solenoids were working at the time.

Hi all....thank you all for the help!

Just an update on what I found.

The original error (1496 display) may have been caused by a piece of the backplane (the green part) flaking off and taking with it some solder...then ending up stuck on the back on a couple of traces.

The solenoid issue, seems to have been the fuse on the power supply. When I first measured voltage I got 28VDC and when I measured ohms/continuity, the fuse was good. Weird thing is I popped it out and measured and it was open.
I replaced the fuse and solenoids worked!

Now, I've spent the afternoon going through the lamp tests and fixing/replacing burnt out bulbs (found a couple of broken wires going to bulbs and resoldered) and testing solenoids. Also touched up the cabinet box with flat black on the parts that are damaged.

The GOR drop targets may need to be cleaned/adjusted and I will work on swapping out the cracked rubber for new.

Going to work on touching up the artwork on the back glass later this week and get a key made for the back board lock.

Future plans are to convert to LEDs, maybe add some vinyl stickers to the sides inside, repair the coin door switch that's missing and maybe the cabinet knocker (why would that be missing/removed?).

I had originally bought because a coworker rely wanted a Gorgar (didn't have the room in his garage right away and I did), but I think I'll add it to my other three pins.