(Topic ID: 321534)

Looking for help on third flash on MPU-200

By wild_pins

1 year ago


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  • 55 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Quench
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U13 behaviour seems to work fine and passes when U8 contains #0 (resized).png
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#1 1 year ago

I was hoping someone may be able to help.

I’ve got issues with getting a third flash on my F2K’s MPU-200 (faulty U8 or U13, the 5101’s).

I did the following things already:
- Removed battery and replaced it with 3xAA and a Diode
- Removed corrosion
- Replaced some components in reset circuitry with visible corrosion damage. Measured Q5 and Q1 via diode check
- Replaced U8 IC socket
- Replaced both 5101 chips with new ones (U8 and U13)
- Confirmed all continuity for U8 and U13 using continuity chart - Repaired traces where continuity was lacking (U8-1 > U13-1, U8-22 > U13-22, C13-Left > U8-22)
- Tested U14 on the board with a diode tester (+ to GND, - to pins) and they all read between +- 0.5 to 1.2)
- Tested with a known good voltage (atx power supply +12V and +5V) -> get 1 flicker, then two flashes.
- Tried booting with and without batteries in battery pack, always flicker & 2 flashes.

I’m reaching the end of the online documentation at this point Any pointers or direction can help!

#3 1 year ago

Hi vec-tor,

The 2101 is a great suggestion, but they do not seem easy to source here. I will have a look.

Any other things I could check?

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Post some clear high resolution pictures of the MPU board showing the repairs.
Did you try using a logic probe to check for signal activity on both of the 5101 chips?

Hi, would these pictures do? They show the replaced components and the other shows some trace connections redone with wire

20220902_162744 (resized).jpg20220902_162744 (resized).jpg20220902_162816 (resized).jpg20220902_162816 (resized).jpg
#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

At least you have genuine Philips 5101 chips.
Pin 9 of the 5101 in the U13 socket doesn't look right. Please check that the pin isn't bent at right angle under the chip such that it isn't in the socket.

I removed U13 and pin 9 was indeed a bit bent. I reseated it correctly and made sure no pins were bent but the problem still persists. I also tried with the third 5101 I ordered but no luck.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Do you have a logic probe or oscilloscope to check for activity on the U8 / U13 pins?
If not you will have to carefully check that there is no short circuits under the new U8 socket pins and note that some signals to U8 come from all over the board. Confirming connectivity between U8 to U13 isn't enough, you need to check from the source (mostly the 6800 CPU) to U8 and U13.

I did check the continuity from the 6800 as I assumed that, indeed, was important. However I am unsure how I would go about looking for shorts.

I don't own a probe or scope but am going to buy a logic analyzer so i can hook it up to my PC and see what the communication is doing simultaniously on multiple pins.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Also have to check for shorts between the pins and the thin traces that run between the pins.
I use an analog multi-meter for this.
Place a meter probe on pin 1 and swipe the other meter probe along all other pins on the chip. When the analog meter dial deflects quickly go back and recheck those pins. Then move onto pin 2 and swipe the other pins. Then pin 3 etc, etc.
Since you used strip sockets for U8, put the board up to a bright light looking for shorts between pins and traces:
[quoted image]

Thanks for the suggestions, I could not find any shorts between traces.
I also measure the resistance between address pins and they are around 90kOhm, I would have expected open lines.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Do you have an EPROM programmer?

Not at the moment. Are you suspecting faulty roms?

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

Since you said you had corrosion - I would suspect a broken trace. Take note of the solder job on Quench's board in post #11. Note that he also soldered the pins on the top of the board. This will often fix traces that had damaged through-hole connections. Don't worry about the 90K between pins at this time, I would be more focused on traces which is where I believe your problems are.
With meter - you need to trace all pins that you affected. Start at U8, Pin 1 and follow thru to other pins that use Address Bus A3. Check using your meter at the IC, not on the bottom of the board.
Then move to pin 2, pin 3, etc
Also clean up your solder flux with alcohol and a small, soft brush. Often you can't see some solder bridges until you clean away the old flux.

Hey GPE, this morning I did just that: cleaned everything with isopropyl 99.9% and went through the continuity charts from pinwiki (https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern#U8_.26_U13_5101_RAM_Continuity_Chart_for_Stern_MPU-200_Only).

They all measure between 1 Ohm and 1.5 Ohm resistance. Putting my DMM test leads together also gives me a similar resistance, so I assume the continuity is correct.

Will do another check for shorts.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

I don't think your ROMs are faulty but I could write a quick program ROM to test U8 and U13 separately. But it's probably not worth it since the rework was around U8.
BTW did you check that pins 11 and 12 are connected together at U8?
Can you remove U8 and take some clear photos around the U8 socket so we can see the pin connection soldering on the top side of the board?
I can see the copper pads were not cleaned enough because the solder didn't attach properly to them. I still repair badly corroded MPU boards and can say it is very difficult to get the solder to attach where there was corrosion even after cleaning the copper to a bright color. I always solder tin the copper first to see how well it's sticking and re-clean where necessary before installing components/sockets.

Pin11 and Pin12 are connected. I'll take pictures tomorrow.

I did have some solder pads that were getting loose, but I've put them back in place as good as I could. It ain't going to win any beauty prizes because some solder pads have nearly gone, but I did check full continuity from IC legs of U8 and U13 to all connected components: U11, U9, Q5, the EPROMS, etc.. I can confidently say that there is no continuity issue. I've done it now five to six times just because I wanted to be 100% sure. Measured with the IC's in place and on the IC legs, not on PCB traces or solder pads. (assuming that table on pinwiki is complete)

I did a visual inspection of all traces between U8's machine pins and verified nearby pins and pins on other IC's which had traces nearby of other IC's. Nothing popped up. I also tested U8-1 vs every other pin on U8 and U13, then went to U8-2 did the same, etc.. So I have some confidence there are no shorts. Some confidence, not fully confident, though as this is more a hit-and-miss kind of thing.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Was the board booting ok before the corrosion repairs were done?
Can you confirm when you power on, the MPU LED:
Flicker,
Flash,
Flash
and that's it? Just want to make sure you're not counting the power on flicker as a flash.

Hi Quench,

No, the board was not booting ok before the corrosion repair as well.

I can confirm the flicker, flash, flash and that's it. the flicker is a quick on-off of a few milliseconds or so, the flashes are about half or a full second flashes and that's it.

1 week later
#23 1 year ago

I replaced all the AMI chips without success..

I did some additional stabs at the logic analyzer, and when it is testing U8 and U13, I would assume that it would enable both chips (by setting CE1 and CE2 respectively low and high).

I see CE2 pulsing from time to time, but CE1 remains High, which would mean the U8 and U13 chips never activate.. Since CE1 depends on the states of VUAO2' and address lines A9 and A12, I am starting to suspect the programming ..

how big is the chance that it can pass Flash 1 (ROM) check but still have issues?

#25 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Every chance, because the 5101 /CE1 signal is generated by signals not entirely related to the ROMs / U7 RAM.
The 5101 CE2 (Chip Enable 2) should remain high because it's connected to the /RESET signal. The /RESET signal is only active low on power up then it stays high. It should not be pulsing from time to time.
/CE1 should pulse low at the beginning of U8/U13 testing (just after the 2nd LED flash). When the software determines the 5101 has failed they will no longer be accessed/selected so /CE1 will remain high. In other words the /CE1 signal state is only interesting at the start of U8/U13 tests.
If you are saying CE1 never pulses low after the 2nd LED flash then you need to look at the logic gates that generate the signal to /CE1. These start at pins 12, 13 and 11 of U19 then to pins 9 and 8 of U18 and finally pins 9, 10 and 8 respectively of U17. You should see some activity on all of these pins. Maybe you have an open circuit to one of these pins caused by the battery corrosion or U8 socket install.

Oh Sorry, I asked an ambiguous question. I was wondering if there was a chance the ROM check could pass with faulty code in them.

I did check all the logic gates between U9 and /CE1 and CE2 and they all function as expected.

What I noticed when investigating /CE1 was that both U17-9 and U17-10 pulse, but they pulse out of sync, which results in U17-8 always being high. See U17 image attached.
A0 = U17-10
A1 = U17-9
A2 = U17-8
A4 = /CS1 U8

Since U17-9 is based on A9 and A12, i assume those timings are as expected. On U17-9 that seems to be based on the VUA-Q2. I inspected some of the clock signals and saw these timings, see clock signals image. Clock seems to be running at about 813kHz

U17 (resized).jpgU17 (resized).jpgclock signals (resized).jpgclock signals (resized).jpg
#27 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

The ROM test adds the value of each ROM location as a sum. At the end of the test, the summation should be zero '00'. Technically speaking there is a 1 in 256 chance a bad ROM could result in the ROM test passing.

In your diagram I see three low going pulses on U17-8 (/CS1).
The first pulse reads the existing value at the lowest U8/U13 RAM location (for backup).
The second pulse writes the test value '01' to the lowest U8/U13 RAM location.
The third pulse reads the test value that was written to lowest U8/U13 RAM location.
The test value read does not match what was written so the program basically halts meaning there was a fault detected with U8 and/or U13.
Now if you have enough analyser probes, I would attach one to each of the four data lines on U8 and the four data lines on U13 and also probe /CS1 as the reference for when U8/U13 are written/read.
You will then be able to see what is written to these RAM chips and what is being read out to see the non-matching data.

That was some excellent advice. I saw the 01 being written, but on the third pulse it outputs just the same thing as what was already in it. See screenshot.

Since these are two new 5101's, did I already fry them or is there something else that would cause a problem with the chip not being able to write? Voltages? slow edges?

U8 and U13 not reading out what was written in (resized).jpgU8 and U13 not reading out what was written in (resized).jpg
#29 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Indeed, the diagram down below further illustrates it:

I presume the R/W signal you probed was directly at one of the 5101 and not somewhere else? The activity looks correct.
Measure the supply voltage at both of the 5101 chips with the board powered ON - i.e. make sure both the 5101 have power.
Set your multi-meter to DC voltage, place the black meter probe on pin 8 and the red meter probe on pin 22 of the 5101's.
You should measure about 5VDC
[quoted image]

The R/W signal is measured at U13 and has continuity to the R/W pin at U8.

DC voltage during test measure around 4.5V whereas after test it moves up to 5V
Checked AC voltage for any ripple and noticed a 0.02V AC ripple on the DC line. Unsure if this is within tolerance.

#31 1 year ago

I don't have any other MPU board (it's my first pinball I am repairing).

I redid the test with the original 5101's in it and the results are less obvious for me.:

analysis of original 5101s (resized).pnganalysis of original 5101s (resized).png

update: I swapped the leads on U8 and U13, so I you should read D4 to D7 as D0 to D3 and vica versa. Sorry for the rookie mistake.

#33 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Ok, so the first test value of $01 (00000001) passes, the next test value of $02 (00000010) fails.
Can you swap the U8 and U13 chips over at the sockets and redo the tests? Lets see if the results are better.

Hi Quench,

I did the swap and think I got some interesting conclusions.

The result depends on the initial value of the chip socketed in U8. If U8 is #0, (so 0000xxxx as a whole byte) I get a test sequence up to #08 (00001111). After which it fails as it can't as it can't write #10. I tried this for all 4 other 5101 chips I have and none seem to be able to want to write to the chip.

I additionally checked if the RW signal reached the U8 specifically and that did not seem to be the issue. Nor is the OD signal to blame.

I checked continuity on the address lines for both U8 and U13 and they seem fine. No shorts between address lines as well.
Added OD lines - RW is for U8 as well (resized).pngAdded OD lines - RW is for U8 as well (resized).pngU13 behaviour seems to work fine and passes when U8 contains #0 (resized).pngU13 behaviour seems to work fine and passes when U8 contains #0 (resized).png

#37 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Any that are laser etched are going to be remarked chips or fakes. May or may not work. I seem to recall getting a batch that did have printed white markings but they were off a bit and ended up being earlier remarked chips. Often that will wear off much easier than the original printing.
From the pictures posted they look like they should be real chips but you never know. There are so many fakes floating around that every chip has to be tested. Can no longer assume a supposedly new chips is good. If they were ordered off ebay from China or from Aliexpress then the likelyhood of fakes goes up a bit.
I just ran into a batch of 20 fake 6802 chips from ebay (all dead) that I had to open a case on.
The memory chips the original poster has may be ok but I had to raise the issue since it is coming up more often and if those were fakes then possibly chasing a board issue that is actually ok.

They were bought to a respectable dutch site ministryofpinball.com.. Does this means I need to conclude all my chips are broken and I need to reorder them?

#40 1 year ago

I ensured that the working 5101 (one of the original ones on the board) was put into U8. Then I tried the other original one as well as the three philips ones I ordered. All four chips present the same issue where what I read out differs from what was written in. I will connect back to the vendor and see what can be done with the faulty 5101s.. Will keep you posted about the further repair. Thank you in assisting me through this challenge.. who would have thought that the new ICs would not work either...

#43 1 year ago

While I'm waiting on new 5101s, I was looking at the board and noticed at least two tantalums.. Do you reckon I should change these as well. If I recall, these go bad as well after a while..

#49 1 year ago

Small update, I've been waiting for new 5101. This time I thought I'd try from my local electronics store.. took about a week to get them in the shop... picked them up today and they were branded "PCD 5101AP".. Other markings are "MRM8231 2 Y" and at the bottom "21655".

Can't find a datasheet, though.. and some sites refer to the manufacturer as "Sig", though no manufacturer is on the chip .. will give it a go tomorrow and see what it does, but my hopes are not that high.

#52 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Manufacture date: 31st week of 1982

Probably short for Signetics. Philips bought Signetics which might also explain the early date code.
Post pictures of the chips when you get them.

Got them, see attachment

20220922_221558 (resized).jpg20220922_221558 (resized).jpg
#54 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

They look legit. Now with the suspense, do they work?

They do! Six flashes on the bench! now I can continue with testing everything else. But first will double check if all the voltages coming in are good enough before I plug in the board in the pin.

Thank you so much everyone in helping me better understand this board and guiding me through the process. I feel I better understand it now and will be much more able to debug the next thing that comes my way.

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