(Topic ID: 283742)

Looking for advice on how to repair this WPC Power Driver board

By PittPin

3 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Pin_Guy
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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GI 1 (resized).jpg
IMG_2921 (resized).JPG
TAF- Brown GI buzz (resized).jpg
#1 3 years ago

On my Addams Family I have the GI-1 string out. I checked continuity of the brown and the white/brown wires to the lamp sockets and that checked out. I checked the voltage at J120-1 and 7 and got nothing. There was continuity from J115-8 to Q18 pin 1. Fuse F110 was tested out of the holder and was good.

So then I checked continuity from J115-3 to fuse F110 and found NO continuity (I checked from header pin 3 to fuse and then removed the board and checked from the solder joint to the fuse). Visually the board looks fine. Could the trace have just gone bad somehow?

I attached the pinwiki diagram of the circuit I am checking and a photo of the bottom of the board. The photo and drawing are not in the same orientation. I am looking for some advice as to how you would fix this.

IMG_2921 (resized).JPGIMG_2921 (resized).JPGTAF- Brown GI buzz (resized).jpgTAF- Brown GI buzz (resized).jpg
#2 3 years ago
Quoted from PittPin:

from J115-3 to fuse F110 and found NO continuity

The through hole is probably damaged or missing at J115-3.
You can put a wire from J115-3 to F110 or repair/stitch the through hole.

GI 1 (resized).jpgGI 1 (resized).jpg

trace on topside = brown line in picture

#3 3 years ago

Hmm sounds like the through holes have split and are not making contact now. The easiest way is to run a jumper. The hard way is to pull the header and slip a wire in the hole to solder to the trace to the other side of the through hole and then reinsert the new header and resolder it all.

#4 3 years ago

Can the through hole be repaired/replaced, or is the jumper wire an acceptable fix?

#5 3 years ago

Jumpers are fine. Stitch the hole if/when the header needs to be replaced.

#6 3 years ago

I give the jumper a shot. Thanks to both of you.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from PittPin:

Can the through hole be repaired/replaced, or is the jumper wire an acceptable fix?

Yes to both questions; just make sure to use an appropriate sized jumper as this is a high current connection (relatively speaking).

I am literally the only person I know of that still performs actual through hole/trace repairs as this requires both advances skills and specialized parts and equipment which doesn't make this type of repair cost effective. The only advantage offered by a true through hole board repair is that when performed properly it's guaranteed to last for the life of the board.

This is what a true through hole repair looks like prior to tinning the new vias:
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#8 3 years ago

Jumper installed as shown above and all the lights are back on.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Yes to both questions; just make sure to use an appropriate sized jumper as this is a high current connection (relatively speaking).
I am literally the only person I know of that still performs actual through hole/trace repairs as this requires both advances skills and specialized parts and equipment which doesn't make this type of repair cost effective. The only advantage offered by a true through hole board repair is that when performed properly it's guaranteed to last for the life of the board.
This is what a true through hole repair looks like prior to tinning the new vias:
[quoted image]

Used to know a guy who did the true repair but he has long since retired. The repair jobs were fantastic and still holding up well over 30 years now!!!

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

just make sure to use an appropriate sized jumper as this is a high current connection (relatively speaking).

What would be an appropriately sized (gauge) jumper?
Solid wire? (I picture this being the better option from an ease perspective and less risk with errant strands)
Stranded?

I need to make a similar change jumpering the (to be removed) 8 large 6A2 diodes for GI.

#11 3 years ago

16 or 18 gauge is fine. Cheers

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Hawk007:

16 or 18 gauge is fine. Cheers

Solid or strands? Thanks!

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Yes to both questions; just make sure to use an appropriate sized jumper as this is a high current connection (relatively speaking).
I am literally the only person I know of that still performs actual through hole/trace repairs as this requires both advances skills and specialized parts and equipment which doesn't make this type of repair cost effective. The only advantage offered by a true through hole board repair is that when performed properly it's guaranteed to last for the life of the board.
This is what a true through hole repair looks like prior to tinning the new vias:
[quoted image]

I know pinsider Grumpy still does this too. I want do this on my repairs but the kit is really spendy if you only make a couple repairs here and there.
What parts/kit do you use on your repairs? If you don't mind me asking, that is.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

What parts/kit do you use on your repairs? If you don't mind me asking, that is.

I use a combination of Pace Cir-Kit trace repair kits and solid copper eyelets from a company that closed it's doors a few decades ago.

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

What would be an appropriately sized (gauge) jumper?

If I was using a jumper, I would use 18 gage solid wire.

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