(Topic ID: 235578)

Looking for a pinball repair tech in Pittsburgh


By Ericc123

69 days ago



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  • 58 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 days ago by statictrance
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 58 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 69 days ago

So I've been working on a project re-import Jurassic Park the Lost World for about four months and still can't get it to turn on. I have sent the boards out to Chris Hibler, and have a video of them working, so I know that isn't the problem. I purchased a used transformer on Ebay that I assume is working and isn't the problem. I have re-pinned one of the molex connectors and switched the wiring for 120V. I also installed a new 130V varistor. At this point I'm about out of stuff to try so I was hoping that I could pay to have someone come over and help me get to the next step on my project. I still want to learn but I'm at my ropes end at this point. PM me if this is something that you think that you could help with and how much per hour you need. Hopefully we can get this game working.

#2 69 days ago

Good luck... I hope you find someone.

#3 68 days ago

Have not been able to find one. Two I tried were terrible. Forced me to keep trying and fix my own games. Good thing but would be nice if Pittsburgh had a person with a skill set like pinball ninja Clay in Michigan. Good luck. Post if you find one.

#4 68 days ago
Quoted from MJW:Have not been able to find one. Two I tried were terrible. Forced me to keep trying and fix my own games. Good thing but would be nice if Pittsburgh had a person with a skill set like pinball ninja Clay in Michigan. Good luck. Post if you find one.

Yeah, I wish I was more handy and could figure this out myself. I contacted someone on Craigslist that charges $30/hr and he charges for drive time. He said it would be about $100 in just drive time alone and when I said that I would be willing to pay it he still didn't seem interested in coming to help. Pittsburgh definitely needs a good repair tech.

#5 68 days ago

Well, let’s see.
Are the LEDs on the driver board all lit (4)? Make sure the coin door is closed for this observation.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

#6 68 days ago

I used to do a bunch of service calls in the Pittsburgh area, and would be happy to help if I was over that way again. I don't get that way much any more though with not doing Allentown or ReplayFX recently.

I don't understand the drive time thing though. Why would someone pay me to sit on my ass to get to them? Time is money for sure, but the way I work it is to get enough calls (or include with a show trip) in the area to make it worth the trip. Paying me to just sit in the car just doesn't seem right.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

#7 68 days ago

I know it can be a bit of a hassle Eric, but you're always welcome to drop it off here if you're heading towards Altoona. If I don't figure anything out, I don't charge. Even if I do, I'm cheap. Lol. I enjoy the frustration.
Just brought a friends AFM back to life. Just working on the strobe now.

#8 68 days ago
Quoted from Ericc123:

So I've been working on a project re-import Jurassic Park the Lost World for about four months and still can't get it to turn on.

Do you have the transformer wired for 120V? Is the 8amp main fuse in that power switch box, to the right just inside the coin door, blown? Normally overseas this would be a 5amp fuse.

#9 68 days ago
Quoted from Ericc123:

Yeah, I wish I was more handy and could figure this out myself. I contacted someone on Craigslist that charges $30/hr and he charges for drive time. He said it would be about $100 in just drive time alone and when I said that I would be willing to pay it he still didn't seem interested in coming to help. Pittsburgh definitely needs a good repair tech.

I’ve seen PGH so called techs want to charge $100 per hour and not be able to fix issues . Check past threads. I think I posted a question for PGH tech . Can’t remember if I got a response. Your best option may be to just get advice from Pinsiders . If needed , start a separate thread with exact problem. I’ve made it through a lot of tough spots over the years with help on here.

#10 68 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Do you have the transformer wired for 120V? Is the 8amp main fuse in that power switch box, to the right just inside the coin door, blown? Normally overseas this would be a 5amp fuse.

I did wire the transformer for 120V (assuming I did it correctly) and did put an 8amp fuse in the power box.

120V (resized).JPG
#11 68 days ago

PM sent with contact details of a friend in the Pittsburgh area.

#12 68 days ago

They have a huge tournament in Pittsburgh every year at the PAPA facility. Contact one of the organizers and ask if any of their techs are interested. https://papa.org/contact-us/

#13 68 days ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

I know it can be a bit of a hassle Eric, but you're always welcome to drop it off here if you're heading towards Altoona. If I don't figure anything out, I don't charge. Even if I do, I'm cheap. Lol. I enjoy the frustration.
Just brought a friends AFM back to life. Just working on the strobe now.

Even if I'm not heading toward Altoona I might drop it off because you do good work.

#14 68 days ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Well, let’s see.
Are the LEDs on the driver board all lit (4)? Make sure the coin door is closed for this observation.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

No power at all. No lights on the boards or anywhere for that matter.

#15 68 days ago

Did you Try continuity from the pug of the power cord to the wire end of the power cord?

#16 68 days ago
Quoted from Ericc123:

I have sent the boards out to Chris Hibler, and have a video of them working, so I know that isn't the problem. I purchased a used transformer on Ebay that I assume is working and isn't the problem. I have re-pinned one of the molex connectors and switched the wiring for 120V. I also installed a new 130V varistor.

Quoted from Ericc123:

I did wire the transformer for 120V (assuming I did it correctly) and did put an 8amp fuse in the power box.

Where are you losing power? It starts at the wall, is it getting through the cord to the machine? Power box? Line filter? Transformer? Cabinet wiring up to the power driver board (see page 107 in the manual, connector J14 maybe? kind of blurry in my manual)?
Are fuses F8, F9, and F23 good?

#17 68 days ago

start by just checking the voltages before they hit the power board... and work your way forward or backwards depending on what you find.

#18 68 days ago
Quoted from Ericc123:

I did wire the transformer for 120V (assuming I did it correctly) and did put an 8amp fuse in the power box. [quoted image]

That looks wired right. You have 2 black wires looped together on the same pins 2 and 3?

Do you have 120Vac at the service outlet in the power box?

#19 68 days ago

Did you check the continuity of the on/off switch?

#20 68 days ago

Is your power source active?

#21 68 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Did you check the continuity of the on/off switch?

How do I do that?

Quoted from vec-tor:

Is your power source active?

How can I tell?

#22 68 days ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Where are you losing power? It starts at the wall, is it getting through the cord to the machine? Power box? Line filter? Transformer? Cabinet wiring up to the power driver board (see page 107 in the manual, connector J14 maybe? kind of blurry in my manual)?
Are fuses F8, F9, and F23 good?

I bought a multi meter that I’m learning how to use. Definitely have power at the wall, the cord, and going into the machine. I’ll take some readings tomorrow and post them but I believe I’m losing voltage before the transformer.

#23 68 days ago

Make sure to pull out the 8 amp slow blow fuse and check it for continuity. It's in the metal box on the floor of the cabinet. It should be accessible through the coin door.

_20190209_013913.JPG

#24 68 days ago

Where about are you? If close by I can lend a hand. I'm over greensburg way.

#25 68 days ago
Quoted from Borygard:

I used to do a bunch of service calls in the Pittsburgh area, and would be happy to help if I was over that way again. I don't get that way much any more though with not doing Allentown or ReplayFX recently.
I don't understand the drive time thing though. Why would someone pay me to sit on my ass to get to them? Time is money for sure, but the way I work it is to get enough calls (or include with a show trip) in the area to make it worth the trip. Paying me to just sit in the car just doesn't seem right.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

Trip charge, minimum charge, drive time, however you wanna call it, if you are driving to a clients to work on something you need to have an assurance of your costs being covered. I used to have drive time charges in my business and now I just have increased rates with one hour minimums and one hour billing increments. Honestly, it works out the same in terms of dollars, but is easier to explain to customers at invoice time.

#26 67 days ago
Quoted from Mtkst19:

Where about are you? If close by I can lend a hand. I'm over greensburg way.

Canonsburg.

#27 67 days ago
Quoted from Mtkst19:

Where about are you? If close by I can lend a hand. I'm over greensburg way.

I could also give you a hand Sunday if needed . I’m no tech but can check for power and fuse continuity.

#28 67 days ago

Are you positive wall outlet is working? Does the service outlet inside game have power?

#29 67 days ago

Worst case if you can’t get it going, here are also some numbers. Don’t know if any would help. (There is a reason one name is crossed out. ) Don’t try that one. PM me if you would like some help Sunday.

1251522C-B334-4656-84A5-6748EDCFF122 (resized).jpeg2ACCA149-2D7C-4437-9D03-6E270DA9F54B (resized).jpeg
#30 67 days ago

So, I just wanted to say that I can't thank all of you enough for reaching out and offering your help or the help of someone that you know. I am at work now, but my plan is to post a bunch of pictures to this thread when I get home. Hopefully someone will notice something simple that is off or something that I have done incorrectly. While I have zero problem paying a tech for help, I did take on this project to learn how to repair and fix pinball machines, so I'm hoping that I can still learn something from all of this (besides don't bite off a project that is more than you can chew.)

Thank you for all of the help so far,

Eric

#31 67 days ago

Asked the wife to help take pictures so hopefully we got enough of a good view for everyone to see everything. Got power all the way to the blue wire but then couldn’t get the 120V range. It’s possible I wasn’t touching the right part. The fuse tested good and is a 250v 8 fuse. One of the black wires looks awfully frayed but tested good. I’ll keep testing later today but I’m on my way to a Pinball tournament so I can’t check back in until tonight. If anyone needs a picture of anything else or a better view let me know.

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#32 67 days ago

That is an import... You need another fuse! You are setup to have two fuses installed not one!

#33 67 days ago

As vec-tor pointed out, your box has space for two fuses and you'll need two installed or you won't have a complete circuit- hence no power.
Let's double check the basics.
Blue wire should be coming from the wider of the two prongs at the end of your cord. It's your neutral.
Brown wire should be coming from the narrower of the two prongs at the end of your cord. It's your hot.
Green-yellow should be coming from the round prong on your cord. It's your ground.
vid1900 describes how to test in this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide#post-1945129
More good info from the same thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide/page/2#post-2037419

Where is your black lead in the photo I've copied? If it's on your hot wire you got a good reading. If it's on ground something is backwards, you shouldn't have voltage on the neutral/white wire. Refer to the first post I linked.

WhereIsBlackLead (resized).png
#34 67 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

That is an import... You need another fuse! You are setup to have two fuses installed not one!

Every picture I’ve seen online or had someone send me looked like it only had one. Are both 8amp slow blow because I need to order a fuse holder and another fuse.

#35 67 days ago
Quoted from Ericc123:

I need to order a fuse holder and another fuse.

It looks like your box already has the spot for the fuse. If it's been bypassed it's fine, we only fuse the hot wire in the US. It just can't be a break in the wire there, you need connectivity.

#36 67 days ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

It looks like your box already has the spot for the fuse. If it's been bypassed it's fine, we only fuse the hot wire in the US. It just can't be a break in the wire there, you need connectivity.

I would need the black cap that holds it in though correct?

#37 67 days ago

You show 1323 ohms testing the fuse? Or is that 0.1323?

#38 67 days ago

It was moving around but I believe it’s 1323. My multi meter beeps if current is passing through so that’s what I was listening for.

#39 67 days ago

So it looks like this is what I need to order even though I only need the cap. Not worried about it for $2.50

Let me know if I’m wrong though lol

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/FHPM

#40 67 days ago
Quoted from Ericc123:

It was moving around but I believe it’s 1323. My multi meter beeps if current is passing through so that’s what I was listening for.

Retest because it should be a constant beep since a fuse is basically a short unless it has an issue. Best to go to 200 ohm setting and make sure it is less than 1 ohm.

#41 67 days ago

Also, while this is a shot in the dark, make sure the metal caps on the fuse are on tight. If either cap comes off, you have a bad fuse.

However, you should be getting a beep from the fuse when you check it for continuity. If you touch the probes for the meter together you should get a beep. Make sure you're getting that beep, then check the fuse again and make sure you're getting continuity. You should have around 1 ohm or less resistance. On my meter, I'm getting a beep and 0.4 ohms checking an 8a slow blow fuse. Are you sure the battery in the meter is good? Try testing other fuses for continuity. Do they beep?

#42 67 days ago

I would resolder the black wire on that fuse holder to repair the poor connection. Then move your blue wire to bypass the fuse holder, straight to the filter would be preferred or both on the top tab for now. Finally move your fuse and holder to the right (when assembled) fuse location and you should be getting power. Because you have no fuse in the hot line fuse holder that's where you're missing the completion of the circuit.

#43 67 days ago

just bypass the open fuse holder (even if temporary) to see what else is holding you back (if any).

Move the wire from the wall side to the same tab as the other wire, or just down stream... and don't stick anything into the fuse hole

#44 66 days ago
Quoted from MJW:

Worst case if you can’t get it going, here are also some numbers. Don’t know if any would help. (There is a reason one name is crossed out. ) Don’t try that one. PM me if you would like some help Sunday.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would like to apologize to Jan . I got him mixed up with another tech that was charging $100 per hour and could not fix anything. I crossed out his name in error. I am sorry for the mistake.

#45 66 days ago

Thanks for clearing that up MJW. Anyone out there that does need help my rates are still a reasonable $30.00 per hour + travel. I only work on late 80's to present pins.

#46 66 days ago
Quoted from Asmig:

I would resolder the black wire on that fuse holder to repair the poor connection. Then move your blue wire to bypass the fuse holder, straight to the filter would be preferred or both on the top tab for now. Finally move your fuse and holder to the right (when assembled) fuse location and you should be getting power. Because you have no fuse in the hot line fuse holder that's where you're missing the completion of the circuit.

This thing is hanging on by a hangnail

dfhdfh (resized).jpg
#47 65 days ago
Quoted from pindel:

This thing is hanging on by a hangnail[quoted image]

Yeah, definitely needs fixed. I had a busy weekend so I haven't had much of a chance to try anything recommended in this thread but I will definitely report back when I do.

#48 65 days ago

Hey - If you need a tech to come take a look - I'm literally 2 turns off 19 at Boyce rd on the border between PT and USC. You can ping me on here or message me on my FB page www.fb.me/skillshotrepair .

I'm not afraid of a bit of a drive either for anyone else in the area.

1 week later
#49 56 days ago

Ok so a bit of an update but still need help. A local Pinsider came over and helped me install a new fuse holder and a new fuse. For the first time the machine turned on. Now the DMD isn’t working. When I sent my boards to Chris Hibler I didn’t send the DMD power control board but the tech that helped me doesn’t think it’s the board because the voltages weren’t testing right. I swapped the transformer from my South Park, which I know works, and it tested the same. So what can cause the voltages to be off, possibly cause the DMD to not work, and isn’t the transformer?

#50 56 days ago
Quoted from Ericc123:

Ok so a bit of an update but still need help. A local Pinsider came over and helped me install a new fuse holder and a new fuse. For the first time the machine turned on. Now the DMD isn’t working. When I sent my boards to Chris Hibler I didn’t send the DMD power control board but the tech that helped me doesn’t think it’s the board because the voltages weren’t testing right. I swapped the transformer from my South Park, which I know works, and it tested the same. So what can cause the voltages to be off, possibly cause the DMD to not work, and isn’t the transformer?

So what did he see for voltages? If you don't know and want to test pinwiki has all the test points http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Sega/Stern_White_Star_Repair#Display_problems

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