Several things could be wrong here.

Some LEDs (not ordinary bulbs) are sensitive to orientation, so if a LED is dead try removing it from the socket, rotate 180 degrees and put it back in again and see if that helps.

If you move a "dead" lamp to another,currently working socket, does it light up? If not then lamp might be bad.

Many people swap lamps with the game turned on, it's certainly doable but only recommended if you know what you are doing. Unintentionally shorting things while swapping lamps is really bad so I recommend you to turn the game off when working on it if you are new to all this.

Those green boards often have problems where a small indentation have been formed over time in the contact plane for the black plastic lamp holders. Remove one of the black lamp sockets and look at the two silver colored tracks on the board, you will probably find two grooves who causes bad electrical contact with the twist lamp holder. The easiest solution to this problem is to get a soldering iron and reflow the planes with some new solder (to remove the grooves).

It could also be an issue where the two small metal prongs on the twist socket are too flat. Try bending them a tiny bit more to make them stand out more and thus get better connection to the board.

As the other lamps seem to work it's most probably not an issue with a fuse. If you want to check the fuses in the backbox anyway then measure them for continuity outside the game with a multimeter (measuring fuses directly in the fuse holder isnt reliable as the current can go other ways and fool the instrument that the fuse is ok).

That metal lamp socket lamp can be changed either from above or below. From above you have to remove the plastics to get access. From below simply unscrew that small screw holding the socket to the playfield. Then press bulb down and rotate to get it out of the socket.

If above doesn't help then measure voltage coming to the board/lamps using a digital multimeter to see if they actually get any voltage at all. If not the problem is upstream in broken cabling, bad connectors and so on. The measuring obviously needs to be done with the game turned on so only do this if you are confident, if you short stuff while measuring you will make things much worse. If unsure then ask someone local for help.

That one is a flash bulb. Make sure you are in the Coil Test section when performing the diagnostic test.

take out bulb, bend little tabs up on black bulb holders, might need to add some solder to build up connection points between socket and board.

Something that has not been mentioned, but lines up with the symptoms you are experiencing with all lamps on some of the pcbs not working is the header pins. I’ve found 9/10 when all lamps aren’t working on a pcb, it’s the header pins. I have never had a case where the indentation was so severe, it was causing a lamp not to light. Unplug the connector for those boards and flow fresh solder at the base of every pin (game turned off). Plug the connector back in and I bet you have lamps. As for the large bulb, as mentioned, it is a flash lamp and does not stay solidly lit, it will briefly flash during gameplay when specific events happen.

If all those lights are on the same row or column of the switch matrix for lamps, the diagram of the entire switch matrix is in the manual, you may have a broken wire or even a bad transistor on the power driver board that is not allowing any of those lamps to light. In the manual, check the name of the lamps that are out based on location. Look to the matrix lamp diagram. Even though they are not close together, you may have the ah-ha moment if all the dead lamps line up vertically or horizontally.

Sometimes it’s just the little wires on a 555 LED bulb. I typically find which side is the end of the wire on each and “fan them out” a little bit before I install them. It kinda makes sure they are making good contact when installed in their socket.

Jeff

Lots of good suggestions here!

Two more:

As a normal part of our 'shopping' a pinball we will take all these lamp boards that have a plug in connector out of the game and reflow the solder on the pins. It is insanely common for you to have cracked solder joints on the end pins of the bigger lamp boards but I frequently find broken solder on the 3-lamp boards at the connector also.

So you've got a 'twist in' black lamp socket that isn't working?

I have gotten to the point where I NEVER replace that bulb first. I always grab a working twist in black socket with a working bulb, and put that in the suspect location.

Then I replace the lamp in the black plastic socket, and put that one where I pulled the working one out.

While you can blow things up whenever you are working under the playfield, I will always have the 'ALL LAMPS' test running when I am working on lamps.

If I blow anything up... (shrugs) In the words of Randy Fromm 'watch it burn for a little while with a pretty flame, then fix it. You are a tech!'

Hehe.

It looks like column 7 is your problem. Check for continuity on the yellow-violet wire under the playfield and see if transistor Q54 is blown

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Youtube has lots of short videos. How to test a transistor.

If you don't have circuit board experience. Get help.

LTG : )