I just ordered one for my Truckstop. I've got it torn down, mylar safely removed and all parts polished and ready for re-install. Its been sitting in that condition for a year. Delay was caused by all the prep work I need to do surrounding laying down clearcoat (and the finish work that follows). Instead, I'm going to touch up some insert keylines, then simply lay this protector on the playfield and reassemble. ... for me, this will be a time saver and BBTS is just not a high dollar machine. It also leaves open the option to CC later as I have no need to add mylar or anything to protect my now bare PF. I'm excited to try it and thanks to RD for testing and posting.

Pics are mylar before removal and after using heat gun and goo gone. Lost just one speck of art, literally. Easy fix along with painting some black keylines

20150604_182330 (resized).jpg20150606_130500 (resized).jpg

Does it make the colors pop the way CC does? Also ... does it hide minor PF imperfections in artwork? I'll be painting black keylines around inserts before adding mine and sometimes black is very hard to match perfectly due to fading etc. CC can help to mask some of that ...

Mine just arrived today from Germany. Arrived in excellent condition. See pics of test fitting. I've got a bit of work to do before installing it. Sure looks like it fits perfectly.

I painted all my circular key lines last week (trust me Truck stop has a few of those!). Added all my LED's today. Did some minor Kwikwood repairs as well. A little more paint touch ups and rebuilding 2 sets of flippers and I'll be ready to install the protector. I'll report back when completed.

20161015_184942 (resized).jpg

Finally wrapped up my Big Bettys Truckstop restore tonight. Today I painted some keylines, built some new mushroom bumper switches from scratch. Soldered a new diode into the blue diamond inserts, rebuilt lower flippers, then I:

- put down the playfield protector, first removing the underside protection layer
- repopulated the entire playfield
- added all new rubber
- peeled top protection layer

After a staight 13 hour day ...

I finally played a few games and immediately had 2 balls get stuck "under" the protector up on the right side (the protector was cut about 1/4" long and was just a bit over the vuk hole, and when the vuk launched the ball, it lifted the protector and the ball went under it, and ... on BBTS, there is a kicker to the right of the vuk that then sent a second ball under, right next to the first!)

I fixed that by cutting the protector at the ball return to the right of the vuk, then used a couple small pieces of mylar to hold in place. Worked like a charm
There was also an issue with the protector being a bit too wide in that vuk area as a ball guide needed to be installed there and I had to notch it to fit

Truckstop is a fairly rare game (1,598) so I'm not surprised that it was not perfect, no complaints here. I'm very happy to have it!

After the fitting above, it fits nice, looks fabulous and plays great!

Saved me tons of time clearcoating and sanding - love it

20161112_144428 (resized).jpg20161112_173416 (resized).jpg20161112_173410 (resized).jpg20161112_220845 (resized).jpg20161112_220830 (resized).jpg20161112_220902 (resized).jpg20161112_220919 (resized).jpg20161112_220952 (resized).jpg20161112_220731 (resized).jpg

My guess is that you could not possibly harm your overlay. These are tough plastics and assuming you start with a clean PF, there would be nothing to get under it. I, for instance, did quite a bit of touch up painting under mine and I have no worry of it holding up

When I made mine for my Batman 66SLE, I used an HDF block for the base material between the punch and the PETG and that stopped the deformation. It also dulls your punches but it made a nice protector. When I used a regular pine board, I got way too much deforming around the edges FWIW

Yes, MDF was too soft for me. Tried that too