(Topic ID: 169812)

Lexan Playfield Protector install and review

By rotordave

7 years ago


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  • 545 posts
  • 138 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by durgee7
  • Topic is favorited by 92 Pinsiders

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There are 545 posts in this topic. You are on page 11 of 11.
#501 5 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

It will flatten out.

There must be a reason playfield protectors are shipped flat. That's where my question comes from.

#502 5 years ago

I just installed one on a Getaway. Prior to purchasing, I assumed there would be something on the PF that would hold it down. But the pattern avoids every post, ball guide, apron, etc. So it just floats. If I raise the PF, it definitely moves. Is this normal?

#503 5 years ago

All the ones I've installed have gone under ramp flaps and aprons to be held down in place. Where'd you get it?

#504 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I have one game that had this and it was a NIB. I think this may happen because it is perfectly flat and the look is from static cling or something but I dont know. I took it off, cleaned, naptha'd, made sure everything was perfectly dry, and put it back. In about 15 minutes the look was back.

Someone in another thread suggested wiping the PF with some antistatic tissues. I need to investigate this.

#505 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

All the ones I've installed have gone under ramp flaps and aprons to be held down in place. Where'd you get it?

Directly from the source: www.playfield-protectors.com

Getaway only has one ramp flap...that's the only point of 'hold-down'. The apron is past the protector and doesn't secure it.

#506 5 years ago

Strange... the photo of the protector on their page should be held down by the ramp flap by the look of it. I wonder if yours is cut different or if you have a really short ramp flap or what.

Even with the flippers and gates it's Flopping around a lot? I'd ask those guys or at least give them some feedback.

#507 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Strange... the photo of the protector on their page should be held down by the ramp flap by the look of it. I wonder if yours is cut different or if you have a really short ramp flap or what.
Even with the flippers and gates it's Flopping around a lot? I'd ask those guys or at least give them some feedback.

The ramp flap does hold it down...that's the only spot. It doesn't flop around too bad, only if you raise the playfield. The worst area is up by the upper right pop bumper. I've disassembled the supercharger, up/down ramp, and ball guides three times now, trying to get it to lay flat. It's cut a bit off center at the top, so that a small edge of it wants to ride under the metal guide along the back rail, while the rest of it wants to ride in front of the ball rail. On Getaway, there's one contiguous ball rail that starts from the left of the Playfield and does a semi-U all the way around the back to the right side of the PF. I've adjusted it three times now to where it will lay flat, but as soon as I start tightening down the back rail and diverter ramp, it starts to raise/pucker by the pop bumper and upper right targets. Pretty sure because part of it wants to ride under the rail and the other part fits in front of it. I've played several games and it doesn't seem to be causing an issue, but I can push it down with my finger and it pops right back up. Frustrating.

#508 5 years ago

Now I see what you're saying. You definitely have a spot that needs to be trimmed, you just need to figure out where. It is usually just a little sliver from a spot next to a post or something but it should definitely lay flat when the playfield is flat.

If loosening the ramp flap and adjusting the protectors position doesnt help try pressing your finger over the "bubble" or raised section and moving it around. You should be able to locate the culprit that way.

I just installed an Austin Powers protector. It needed about 1/16" trimmed from about 2" worth of the left orbit. Tricky to find but it sits flat after the small trim.

#509 5 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

The ramp flap does hold it down...that's the only spot. It doesn't flop around too bad, only if you raise the playfield. The worst area is up by the upper right pop bumper. I've disassembled the supercharger, up/down ramp, and ball guides three times now, trying to get it to lay flat. It's cut a bit off center at the top, so that a small edge of it wants to ride under the metal guide along the back rail, while the rest of it wants to ride in front of the ball rail. On Getaway, there's one contiguous ball rail that starts from the left of the Playfield and does a semi-U all the way around the back to the right side of the PF. I've adjusted it three times now to where it will lay flat, but as soon as I start tightening down the back rail and diverter ramp, it starts to raise/pucker by the pop bumper and upper right targets. Pretty sure because part of it wants to ride under the rail and the other part fits in front of it. I've played several games and it doesn't seem to be causing an issue, but I can push it down with my finger and it pops right back up. Frustrating.

Just trim it. It cuts easily with scissors. It doesn't need to go all the way to the guide.. the ball never travels there anyway.

#510 5 years ago

Guys,

I made a PET-G protector for my Gottlieb ASM and it's been less than a month before white crap started collecting underneath. I will admit, this was my first custom protector, and it isn't perfect in any way. Playfield Protectors provided one for my Data East TMNT and I absolutely love it! That one has been on for almost a year, and I have not noticed dust or any other particles collecting underneath.

Back to ASM: I made sure to vacuum, remove plastics/posts/rubbers, clean playfield with naptha and microfiber x 2, vacuum again, place protector with top protective film intact, attach cleaned posts and plastics along with new rubber rings, vacuum again, and peeled top protective film, then vacuumed again. Ugh, the white particles didn't start showing up until this past week after a few games played. My question: Do new rubber rings shed white particles as a norm? I figured new white rings would prevent this issue from occurring. Maybe somehow old bits of paint and wax are loosening and getting stuck underneath? To me, it looks like rubber ring dust, but I could be wrong. It could also be pieces of PET-G loosened from the cut edges...that makes more sense. Maybe I'll do a better job grinding down the cut edges to remove any loose pieces.

I appreciate your feedback, keeping in mind that I want to continue using these protectors since they are an easy and cheap way to get that clear coat shine, while smoothing out those depressed areas.

My current plan is to wait a few more months, monitor to condition of this protector, then maybe make a newer/better one while cleaning the playfield and plastics/rings again.

Thanks!

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#511 5 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Guys,
I made a PET-G protector for my Gottlieb ASM and it's been less than a month before white crap started collecting underneath. I will admit, this was my first custom protector, and it isn't perfect in any way. Playfield Protectors provided one for my Data East TMNT and I absolutely love it! That one has been on for almost a year, and I have not noticed dust or any other particles collecting underneath.
Back to ASM: I made sure to vacuum, remove plastics/posts/rubbers, clean playfield with naptha and microfiber x 2, vacuum again, place protector with top protective film intact, attach cleaned posts and plastics along with new rubber rings, vacuum again, and peeled top protective film, then vacuumed again. Ugh, the white particles didn't start showing up until this past week after a few games played. My question: Do new rubber rings shed white particles as a norm? I figured new white rings would prevent this issue from occurring. Maybe somehow old bits of paint and wax are loosening and getting stuck underneath? To me, it looks like rubber ring dust, but I could be wrong. It could also be pieces of PET-G loosened from the cut edges...that makes more sense. Maybe I'll do a better job grinding down the cut edges to remove any loose pieces.
I appreciate your feedback, keeping in mind that I want to continue using these protectors since they are an easy and cheap way to get that clear coat shine, while smoothing out those depressed areas.
My current plan is to wait a few more months, monitor to condition of this protector, then maybe make a newer/better one while cleaning the playfield and plastics/rings again.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think I know what your problem might be. Maybe not, but I'll give if a try. I have made 5 protectors but I have never bought a commercial unit. I am going to assume a commercial protector is cut with a little more precision then a home job.

My first protector ( mine are made of poly. I don't know how cleanly PET-G cuts). I cleaned and vacuumed and all of this white stuff started showing up under my play field.

I used a Dremel Tool to make a lot of my cuts and while I thought I had cleaned my protector thoroughly there were still many very small shavings of poly on the edges. Typical play field action would cause these small shavings to break loose and pollute the underneath of my protector. And you can feel them. You would be surprised at just how small a piece of trash that gets under your protector can be felt.

Solution: I had to start running some sandpaper along the edges of every cut surface and make sure my protector was really clean. That ended my problem.

If you have not sanded and really smoothed the edges of your cuts you might give that a try. I know its work, but you might try removing your protector and make sure you have no shavings on your edges, vacuum your play field again. I think you will have a better experience if you do that. And those shavings don't like to come off easily. I really had to work at it.

#512 5 years ago

Thanks cottonm4! It figures small bits of shavings break off with ease during gameplay. I didn't do a good enough job sanding all cut edges. I appreciate the feedback.

#513 5 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

My current plan is to wait a few more months, monitor to condition of this protector, then maybe make a newer/better one while cleaning the playfield and plastics/rings again.

On my first two protectors I was sort of anal about how I made my cuts. I wanted it to look like there was not protector there. I made close cuts around all of the posts, etc. These were made of .030 thick material. Some areas could be cut with scissors and some cuts had to be accomplished with rotary bits.

My last 3 were cut from .020 thick material. This is thick enough to cover all the bumps and cupped inserts. And you can make most of your cuts with scissors. This time around I would make a cut line at a post that looked like a "V" instead of grinding out a round cut for a post. This is a cleaner cut that does not need a rotary tool. If you look closely you can see it but it is not all that noticeable and you won't know it is there during game play.

#514 5 years ago

Good advice, cottonm4. I used hole punches for those locations near posts. Now I'm debating whether I should make a new protector or just clean up this "old" one.

#515 5 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Good advice, cottonm4. I used hole punches for those locations near posts. Now I'm debating whether I should make a new protector or just clean up this "old" one.

If you make a new one you will have to clean up, too.

Unless it is really ugly, if it was me, I would clean it up and try it out for a while. Your mileage may differ.

I have used hole punches and they work well. However, I found the punches deformed the plastic at the cut edge and I was having to use heat from my industrial heat gun to flatten them out. Not a biggie but something to be aware of.

#516 5 years ago

Thanks again, cottonm4.

One last question: Would using a dremel with sanding drum (coarse, then fine grit) work for this job? I would plan on being extremely careful not to scratch the protector surface, and I would likely keep it at lower rpm. Last night I was sanding and filing by hand, and it was pretty labor intensive. I practiced using the dremel sanding drum on scrap and it seems to work...just wondering what you thought.

#517 5 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I found the punches deformed the plastic at the cut edge

I had the same problem with deforming around some holes, I found a punch blow too hard seemed to do this, maybe the excessive blow from the punch started to spread out & deform the material after the hole was perforated?

when I got the right pressure consistantly the holes seemed ok. I also found if I punched a hole close to a larger open cut out already done like say a target bank cut out, it would quite often deform between the new hole & the large open cut, so I would punch all smaller holes first then do the other manual cuts with the blade after.

All this could be specific to the paticular material I am using I guess.

#518 5 years ago

Double post

#519 5 years ago

Never realized making your own protectors was a thing. The talent of this board never ceases to amaze me.

#520 5 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Thanks again, cottonm4.
One last question: Would using a dremel with sanding drum (coarse, then fine grit) work for this job? I would plan on being extremely careful not to scratch the protector surface, and I would likely keep it at lower rpm. Last night I was sanding and filing by hand, and it was pretty labor intensive. I practiced using the dremel sanding drum on scrap and it seems to work...just wondering what you thought.

I don't see why a Dremel drum would not work. But I never thought about doing it that way. Mine was realizing I had a problem but not knowing the cause. And when I removed the protector and saw what the problem was I just grabbed for some sandpaper and went to work.

You know you need to clean up the edges. How you arrive at that is something whatever makes you feel comfortable. It is easier to do before you remove the protective covering.

#521 5 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

Never realized making your own protectors was a thing. The talent of this board never ceases to amaze me.

Protectors have come a long way in the last 2.5 years. Today, everybody knows what they are and what they can do. A short time ago, many did not know what PET-G or polycarbonate was and thought a protector was just some other kind of Mylar covering.

#522 5 years ago

Ok, Gottlieb ASM update:

I think I've narrowed down the cause of all that debris flying around and getting under the playfield protector. It was easy to see after I removed the protector, sanded all edges smooth, then played on the cleaned protector. I immediately saw pieces bouncing from the bottom bumper areas. Some white crap, maybe old wax that's stuck on the plastic posts or metal screws/fasteners, is likely breaking off and polluting the playfield. The problem becomes worse when lifting the playfield up to replace insert bulbs, or any other kind of maintenance under playfield. Having the playfield elevated obviously allows gravity to spread those particles throughout. I'm going to keep an eye on this to make sure that's the source. Otherwise, I may need to order all new posts, along with cleaning the metal screws.

That reminds me. Does anyone have an alternative method for supporting the playfield other than vertically against the backbox? My tmnt allows a more level position where you slide it partially out and sit two metal brackets on the apron area, I think. Thay way, I'm not having to grab a stool everytime I need access to the flippers, or other areas at the front of playfield.

Thanks!

#523 5 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Ok, Gottlieb ASM update:
I think I've narrowed down the cause of all that debris flying around and getting under the playfield protector. It was easy to see after I removed the protector, sanded all edges smooth, then played on the cleaned protector. I immediately saw pieces bouncing from the bottom bumper areas. Some white crap, maybe old wax that's stuck on the plastic posts or metal screws/fasteners, is likely breaking off and polluting the playfield. The problem becomes worse when lifting the playfield up to replace insert bulbs, or any other kind of maintenance under playfield. Having the playfield elevated obviously allows gravity to spread those particles throughout. I'm going to keep an eye on this to make sure that's the source. Otherwise, I may need to order all new posts, along with cleaning the metal screws.
That reminds me. Does anyone have an alternative method for supporting the playfield other than vertically against the backbox? My tmnt allows a more level position where you slide it partially out and sit two metal brackets on the apron area, I think. Thay way, I'm not having to grab a stool everytime I need access to the flippers, or other areas at the front of playfield.
Thanks!

Your Spiderman should have a double-post support bar that just lifts up and supports both sides of that huge play field. This support (which sounds like yours might be missing) places the play field up in the 45 degree position. On both sides of your cabinet you are going to see some matching brackets where your lift support pivots from. Or you are going to see some holes in the sides of the cab where the support brackets are supposed to be.

#524 5 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Otherwise, I may need to order all new posts, along with cleaning the metal screws.

Go yo Home Depot and get some industrial cleaner like Simple Green to soak your parts in. Get a fingernail brush or an old toothbrush to scrub the parts with. Mean Green works well but it is a little more aggressive ( wear rubber gloves). Zep Industrial Purple works very good (definitely wear rubber gloves).

If you have the spare dollars, get a tumbler to clean up all of your metal parts in. Otherwise, it is scrub-a-dub-dub.

#525 5 years ago

Thanks cottonm4! Yeah, maybe I'm missing those supports for the 45 degree option? Since I'm away from my pin, I've attached an older picture from my usb that might answer that question. Ignore the old orange filter cap. It was replaced.

I'll be making a trip to home depot this weekend. Excellent feedback!

Here's a pic that I zoomed in on this morning. This is the kind of stuff I missed, even after vacuuming. Now I'm wondering if this concealed area needs to be waxed due to all the dry flakey paint. Another project for another day.

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#526 5 years ago

I think my playfield protector will appreciate all this cleaning. Now I just need to wait for the tumbler to do it's job. I'm thinking 24 hours of tumbling should remove all that crap on my screws, washers, and nuts.

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#527 5 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Thanks cottonm4! Yeah, maybe I'm missing those supports for the 45 degree option? Since I'm away from my pin, I've attached an older picture from my usb that might answer that question. Ignore the old orange filter cap. It was replaced.
I'll be making a trip to home depot this weekend. Excellent feedback!
Here's a pic that I zoomed in on this morning. This is the kind of stuff I missed, even after vacuuming. Now I'm wondering if this concealed area needs to be waxed due to all the dry flakey paint. Another project for another day.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Yes. That is the support brackets and the ladder you need.

#528 5 years ago

After all the cleaning, playfield and protector finally staying clean. Thanks to everyone who helped!

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#529 5 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

After all the cleaning, playfield and protector finally staying clean. Thanks to everyone who helped!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

durgee7 - what media are you using in your tumbler? I'm in the process of tearing down the topside of my Mata Hari to prep for a hardtop install and I'm thinking about buying a tumbler to clean up the screws and smaller stainless steel parts. Is it loud? Tumble for 24hrs?

#530 5 years ago

I heard you should use crushed walnut but I am curious as to what is best to use as well. Mine is on its way and comes with 6 lbs of corn media, but I read that corn is best for brass.

#531 5 years ago

Mathazar, I used crushed walnut from the pet store. Also, I squirted novus 2 into the media because I didn't have flitz in my house. I tumbled in the 5 lb harbor freight tumbler for 16 hours and that's all I needed.

I kept it in the garage since it's a little loud.

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#532 5 years ago

I used to use walnut exclusively...but it's such a pain to clean out of all the screw heads and nut threads...switched to corn and haven't noticed any less polishing. I leave mine running for a couple of days.

#533 5 years ago

I was going to use Walnut, but my shipment which came from South Carolina, made it's way here to San Antonio. It was damaged, the label unreadable and replaced. It's now been sent to WALNUT CALIFORNIA. Well done Fedex. Well done. Picked some up locally.

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#534 5 years ago

^too funny.

#535 5 years ago
Quoted from Zavadoza:

I was going to use Walnut, but my shipment which came from South Carolina, made it's way here to San Antonio. It was damaged, the label unreadable and replaced. It's now been sent to WALNUT CALIFORNIA. Well done Fedex. Well done. Picked some up locally.
[quoted image]

You can’t make this shit up!! LOL

#536 5 years ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

I had the same problem with deforming around some holes, I found a punch blow too hard seemed to do this, maybe the excessive blow from the punch started to spread out & deform the material after the hole was perforated?
when I got the right pressure consistantly the holes seemed ok. I also found if I punched a hole close to a larger open cut out already done like say a target bank cut out, it would quite often deform between the new hole & the large open cut, so I would punch all smaller holes first then do the other manual cuts with the blade after.
All this could be specific to the paticular material I am using I guess.

When I made mine for my Batman 66SLE, I used an HDF block for the base material between the punch and the PETG and that stopped the deformation. It also dulls your punches but it made a nice protector. When I used a regular pine board, I got way too much deforming around the edges FWIW

#537 5 years ago

Every once in awhile someone comes to the board talking about the problems that are having with their protector not laying flat on the play field. My opinion is that 99% of the time it is due to interference between the protector and a play field part somewhere on the play field. In my case, the problem and the cause are located next to each other. Sometimes the cause can be on the other side of the play field

I have an example that may help visualize what is causing the problem. I had to remove one of my homemade protectors to do some other work and reinstall the protector. Tonight I ran into puffed up protector issue up in the back box area.

The piece of tape marked with the X's was not laying flat like it was supposed to. The problem is interference between the post and protector that is marked with the arrow. This was not a problem before I removed the protector but it must have positioned a little different on reinstall.

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Loosening the post screw and moving the post a little bit solved the problem. These things do not just jump out and say "Here I am". It took me 5 minutes to find this. But even though the problem was corrected by moving the post a little bit the post is still too close to the protector. Especially if heat from the lights expands the protector. Tomorrow I will grind a little bit of the protector to make this problem go away for good.

IMG_9992 (resized).JPGIMG_9992 (resized).JPG

I hope these pics might help someone who runs into this with their protector install.

#538 5 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

When I made mine for my Batman 66SLE, I used an HDF block for the base material between the punch and the PETG and that stopped the deformation. It also dulls your punches but it made a nice protector. When I used a regular pine board, I got way too much deforming around the edges FWIW

I have been using MDF which is slightly different to HDF, will give a sheet of HDF a go, thanks.

#539 5 years ago

Too good to be true. Maybe it is the playfield protector that keeps shedding all that dust and debris. This is going to drive me insane. I'll give sanding another shot.

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#540 5 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Too good to be true. Maybe it is the playfield protector that keeps shedding all that dust and debris. This is going to drive me insane. I'll give sanding another shot.
[quoted image]

Yep. That looks like play field debris (swarf). Don't obsess over it. That stuff won't affect your play action. And with the lights on and glass on you will have to look hard to see it.

Play the game for awhile. This might give the protector more time to do more shedding. But, yeah, it is hard to find and remove the stuff from every nook and cranny.

#541 5 years ago

Good advice, cottonm4. I'll let it shed naturally, and vacuum as needed. Breaking it in might be my best option.

#542 5 years ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

I have been using MDF which is slightly different to HDF, will give a sheet of HDF a go, thanks.

Yes, MDF was too soft for me. Tried that too

1 month later
#543 4 years ago

I used these. Curved lexan scissors and a body reamer. They are for cutting new lexan RC bodies. The scissors are curved and can cut tight curves. And the reamer cuts perfect circles without deforming the plastic like a circle punch.

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#544 4 years ago
Quoted from Hop-Pac:

I used these. Curved lexan scissors and a body reamer. They are for cutting new lexan RC bodies. The scissors are curved and can cut tight curves. And the reamer cuts perfect circles without deforming the plastic like a circle punch.
[quoted image]

interesting, I'll have to give those a try.

2 weeks later
#545 4 years ago

Hey Guys! Just installed another protector on my new HUO Deadpool Pro. After a few days, I get wet-looking spots underneath lower end of playfield. I contacted playfield protectors and they said it is due to the new paint. Their recommendation is to use compressed air, or hair dryer on low heat setting, underneath protector to remove spots. I'll give it a try this week and see if it makes a difference. I'm a little skeptical of the solution.

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